I dont have any right now, due to the fact that my car is currently in the shop. I decided to add the Black Widow body kit, lambo door kit, dual exhaust, and a new black paint job. But as soon as i get it back i can post some pics.
well to me ALOT of people throw bullits on their car especially that style mustang too. personally i LOVE the saleens im getting black chrome saleens on my mine =) saleens would deff have a great look on your car just a personal decision i guess
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I am not a fan of black wheels, but the bullets would look GREAT in 10.5"s and 315's
Jaz
EDIT: Forgot to mention to look in the Saleen / Roush section and will see several cars with black Saleen rims. Mostly 7 spoke 20" ones, but a couple 5 spoke 18" ones
< Message edited by Jazzer The Cat -- 4/12/2008 6:48:21 PM >
315s won't fill my wheel gap. i've pretty much given up on 17" wheels- i'd need a 335 to make it look good, and the cost of one 335 35 17 costs the same as 2 DD bullitts.
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Joined: 6/8/2006 From: SF Bay Area Status: offline
If you think 315's wont fill your wheel gap, you need to look ***HERE*** for some picks of your SN95 car running them (hopefully link works as linking to forums sometimes does not work) The car pictures is stock hight, but with sportlines, as you have, will fill wheel well wonderfully. Besides, your asking about 10"s. You cannot run a 335 series tire on a 10" rim (at least not safely). So you may want to go 11"s, but will probably have rubbing issues unless you do some fender rolling and such.
i've got 255 45 17 right now though, and the over all diameter on those is a bit bigger, it would fill the gap more than 315. I think my car doesnt like being lowered or something. Even with sport lines, i can fit 3 fingers wheel gap in the front and rear. The car sits low, and its a pain to get in to, and i scrape everything, but i've still got 3 figners wheel gap. ARggh!
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I think your issue is more that you are running 17"x8" wheels? If you go 9"s and 10"s (or 10.5"s as I have), the wheel will be moved both outward and inward from present off-set. This will bring the wheel out to the edge. I will go out and take a pic of my car now, and will see what I mean.... BRB...
Pics are a little dark, as no time to find better lighting, but can see rear 295/30's on 10.5" are just at the edge of fender. The 315's I will get later this year will fit better. Also currently running 1/2" spacers on rears to move outward to be as you see it now. Will probably need to remove the spacers and go with 1/4" or none at all when 315's are installed. I recommend the spacers as they will help you in the look you want, but will need to replace lug-bolts with longer ones. This was a PITA, but worth it.
Jazzer
< Message edited by Jazzer The Cat -- 4/13/2008 9:58:42 AM >
Your car looks nice! but i'm trying to acheive the smallest gap possible, and i can do that better with 295 35 18s- on a 10inch rim for the rear. and I don't want to use spacers, expecially in the rear.
You seem pretty knowledgable in the wheel/appearence area, judging from your posts. Maybe you can help me with something. The front of my car is killing me, you know the front fender? where the fender flares out? If you look at my third picture, you'll see what i mean. When i look at mine standing behind it, the tire and wheel do not fill up that fender- no matter how tall a tire, or what ever spacer i use- it looks like theres alot of gap- and its lowered more than 2 inches ( i measured my friends GT) I'm considering lowering it more- maybe by taking the isolators in the front out but i dont know if that will solve the problem. I'll see if i can borrow a camera this week to show- its killing me
< Message edited by Jbauer -- 4/13/2008 6:29:19 PM >
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Joined: 6/8/2006 From: SF Bay Area Status: offline
You wont get a much smaller gap than my car as off-set will run wheel into fender. My fronts, as well as rears, are just at the edge of fender without going past. DO NOT DROP YOUR CAR ANY FURTHER!! It will handle very poorly, and ride like crappola. My car has additional drop as it has been completely re-suspended by my Griggs GR-40 suspension system. 100% replacement of all components (see sig) New "K" member, coil-overs all around, torque bar, pan-hard bar, extra heavy lower control arms in front as well as rear. Nearly 100% Heim joints all ALL moving parts except the lower, rear control arms at axle end are eurothane. (I have NO upper control arms any longer) My suspension allows additional drop as all the Mustang geometry has been corrected to be a much more true road car and handles like an absolute dream . I run down Z06 Corvettes and BMW's all day long on the twisties. Sorry, I digress .
...... Your front fender issue will be corrected by 9" rims with the proper off-set. I will take a pic tomorrow looking down car with wheels straight and in good light so you can see better. Your car will not have the small fender gap as you will see on a BMW or Porsche. If you look closely you will see that the fender is very thin at the wheel and allows very close tolerance as well as off-set designed to travel well in the limited space given.
I do, however, think it is a good idea to remove the spring pads as it will not change your ride quality (maybe in the most minute way) and lower your car a little more. But keep in mind, you will reduce clearance and more likey bottom out on bumps and can be hard on kidneys and more likey to slide out on a hard turn of a less than stellar road!
Back to your first point. I am running 295/30/18"s on 10.5"s in rear with 1/2" spacer and wheel is at edge of fender. If you don't want to use spacer, you will need to run a 10" rim with a 295/40 or 45 on a 19" or 20" rim. You won't be able to fill the gap unless you use spacers or maybe a +12 mm off-set or something. I am curious, why don't you want to use spacers? They will give you what you want as well as improve handling as the wheel is moved farther out so stance is more stable.
Ok, I have rambled enough and g/f wants to go to bed to watch a movie . I will take a pic tomorrow and give you a better idea.
Well- the pics up top are old pictures. I have 255 45 17 in the rear right now, and the 295 35 will fill the gap even more. I'm very happy with the rear of my car, it's just the fron't i want to correct. Your saying i should run 18x9 bullitts in the front?
Also- correct me if i'm wrong, i'm still learning a lot, but i thought it didn't matter if your wheel was 18x8 or 18x9? For example, isn't 255 40 18 on a 8" wide rim, the same as 255 40 18 on a 9" wide rim? When you use tire size calculators, they don't take into acount the width of the rim, just the height- so i thought the width of the rim didn't matter- i thought it was only there so you could mount a wider tire, and that if you didn't mount a wider tire on it- and instead mounted the same tire on 9" wheel that you would on a 8" wheel- that they would look the same width wise. I'm sorry- these pictures suck, but they are the only ones i have with 255 in the rear. i just took them and my friends camera wouldn't stop being retarded since it was getting dark, so the images are blurry
< Message edited by Jbauer -- 4/13/2008 8:50:53 PM >
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Joined: 6/8/2006 From: SF Bay Area Status: offline
The overall tire diameter will not change a whole lot going from 8" to 9" rim, but the relative space on the sides will. This, I believe, is part of the issue you have with space you see.
My guess is that if you were to put a straight edge parallel with ground and measured space between the top of the tire and the fender, it will not be 3 fingers thick. I would guess that you are holding your 3 fingers at near 45° angle between the side/top of the tire and fender, am I correct? If so, then getting a wider rim, and a wider tire (and possibly a higher profile) will reduce that gap. Remember, a 285/35/17" tire is "taller" then a 255/35/17" tire because the 35 number is the % of hight vs. width of tire in question. If you go with 9"s and 10"s you WILL reduce the gap in question unless you go ultra-narrow and profile.
My 295/30/18"s are 25" around and 11.9" wide section width on a 10.5" rim (exactly what I am running) as per Michelin website. Look up your tires on website and see how they compare on your width rim. When I go 315's I will have same rim, same profile but tire will be 12.6" wide and 25.5" diameter (as measured on an 11" rim per website) I will gain over 1/2" width and hight because 30% of 315 is more than 30% of 295. My dimentions will not be exactly the same, but only slightly taller and narrower because of 10.5" rim.
Try an experiment to confirm some of this. Jack your car up from the "A" frame just behind front wheel (this will keep the suspension from opening up as little as possible). Loosen lugs 1/2" and slide the wheel outward and step back and check it out. I think you will be pleased with result, even though you have done nothing but limit the gap between face of wheel and side of fender. This will put the tire closer to the finder and should limit the gap you see. This is what I did when I wanted to figure out how much of a spacer I wanted on my rear wheels.
Getting Bullets or Saleen replicas are going to be 9" and 10", so the wheel WILL be moved outward. Going those dimensions will FORCE you to use lower profile to keep tires pretty close to overall diameter you have currently so you have clearance. If you stay 40 or 45 series tires, you will almost assuredly rub on something. The LAST thing you want to do is catch the front lower corner of fender on a hard turn with a bump as the fender will be damaged by the tire pulling it out, and the tire will most likely be cut by fender and may possibly need to be replaced!
I will pull my car out this afternoon and take some pics. I will get a tape measure and get some pics down side of car so you can see what it looks like. I would have a hard time going higher profile in either front or back as I will most likey hit fender. I had to add additional roll to front fender after I installed the 275's as I had a very minor "catch" while cornering. If you think my tires have too much space, and is OK if you do, you will not be able to get less as the Mustang fender, as it is currently designed, will not allow it.
Ohh ok- so what your saying is that even though a tire has a smaller over all diameter- other tires that have a smaller diameter will appear to fill the gap more? why is this? because of offset? if so- what exactly is offset? I tried googling it but i don't think i understand.