i assume we're all mostly familiar with the spark plug problem on the s197. if you aren't feel free to search the forum and get up to speed. this is not a full walkthrough....just a few extra tips to help.
RULE #1. READ THE UPDATED TSB ON THIS BEFORE ATTEMPTING!!!
i tackled this yesterday, 36,000 miles. I was able to get them all out without incident, but it was NERVE-WRACKING!!! Those moments where you're trying to get the plugs to break free will turn your hair gray!! Took just under two hours total time (including letting the plugs soak in penetrating oil). I performed this with the engine cold (ambient temp). when removing the coils, unbolt each one, then remove the wiring harnesses, each coil has two and they aren't hard to keep straight when reattaching. just pull the coil and set it aside instead of letting it hang to the side. it will get dirty from the motor. i then used STP throttle body/fuel injector cleaner to soak the plugs and let wick down onto the ground shield, about 30 minutes total. only spray enough to cover the bottom of where the plug sits. then comes the fun part!!! People, I can't stress this enough....don't get cocky once you get the plugs to break free. I think this is where some people make a mistake (although i admit sometimes having the plugs break is unavoidable). Once they break free, stop there and let them soak a bit longer. Just back them out a little at a time, tighten them back a little, back them out some more, etc, etc....if they hang up, go to another plug and come back after it sits for a while. use slow, gradual pressure. just like trying to launch on ice....finess and patience are the keys here. do not get in a hurry.
Only when they are twisting out easily should you start removing them at a medium pace. Also, once they start backing out, i would push a clean cloth down into where the plug sits and soak up any excess lubricant to keep it from draining into the combustion chamber. Having some fall in is ok, but too much can lead to trouble. either coat your existing plugs with nickel anti seize, or coat your NEW plugs with it. i opted to change my plugs here....why not?? look around, there's a guy selling HT1's on ebay, $45/set of 8. do not put it on the threads, but rather on the electrode ground shield but not all the way to the end. if you're not sure of what this is....look up a diagram.
When reattaching the coils...just push them back on firmly, they'll be ai'ight. i'm including this step, because i had a question about it. *thanks hammeron and howarmat*
also, be careful when retorquing the coil bolts. do not overtighten, i broke two them. if you do, don't freak out, you can get replacements at your local Lowe's. If i remember correctly the thread is 5x0.8 MM, length of 25.
That's about all i can tell you that's not included in the TSB. any questions, please ask!!! Any other tips, feel free to add!!! Good luck!!!
EDIT: Sorry if my writing is erratic, i'm in no way a professional, and this is my first "helper thread"
< Message edited by harraid5711 -- 4/6/2008 9:15:57 PM >
I strongly suggest paying the $19 per plug for the 1-piece champions, part number 7879. The extra $$$ is well worth it to not have to remove your Autolites every oil change just to make sure they aren't seizing up in there.
Unfortunately I bought autolites a month ago right before the Champions came out... :(:(:(:(
I'd like to add that you may have to warm the engine to break the plugs loose. My plugs would NOT break free with the engine cold. I was pushing 35 on the torque wrench and they weren't budging. I ran the engine to full operating temp, then turned it off and let it cool until the engine was warm to touch - I could keep my finger on it without getting burnt. Then they broke loose easily. After the initial break-loose and penetrant, I let it sit for 2 hours to completely cool off, then I removed the plugs. I also installed the new ones with cold engine. Do it this way and you can avoid damaging the threads in the heads. NEVER install plugs wuth the engine warm/hot, and best to avoid the removal when warm/hot too.
< Message edited by richmod -- 4/7/2008 11:57:51 AM >
I'd like to add that you may have to warm the engine to break the plugs loose. My plugs would NOT break free with the engine cold. I was pushing 35 on the torque wrench and they weren't budging. I ran the engine to full operating temp, the turned it off and let it cool until the engine was warm to touch - I could keep my finger on it without getting burnt. Then they broke loose easily. After the initial break-loose and penetrant, I let it sit for 2 hours to completely cool off, then I removed the plugs. I also installed the new ones with cold engine. Do it this way and you can avoid damaging the threads in the heads. NEVER install plugs wuth the engine warm/hot, and best to avoid the removal when warm/hot too.
I'm not getting the temp sensitive nature of this procedure. If I'm not mistaken, the 1st tsbs for this instructed you to slightly warm the engine as you've mentioned. The most recent tsb says not to warm the engine but that it has to be at room temp (but not cold). Looks like I'll have to wait until june to be able to tackle this under the correct atmospheric conditions. While I understand why you would never install plugs on a warm or hot engine. I never thought removal would be so conflicting. I'm surprised they don't have specific barometric and sea level requirements. Or, better yet, maybe the penetrating oil will work better during a full moon!!!
Yea, there's been no explanation from Ford as to the recommended engine temp. change in the TSBs. All know is, cold didn't work for me, warm did. YMMV.
< Message edited by richmod -- 4/7/2008 11:34:14 AM >
Posts: 324
Joined: 9/17/2007 From: Citrus County, Florida Status: offline
Luckily I live down here in sunny Florida so when I took mine out on Saturday in my garage the engine was "room temperature" which was about 80* and they came out with no problems. I've changed out a lot of plugs in aluminum heads and conventional wisdom as I was taught has been to never take them out of a very hot engine or a very cold engine. "Warm" has always worked for me.
Printable Version
Successful Spark Plug Change Tips - 
if you do, don't freak out, you can get replacements at your local Lowe's. If i remember correctly the thread is 5x0.8 MM, length of 25. 
