Hello Everyone,
This is my first mustang. I bought it without a title, vin plate, interior, front clip & most importantly without rust. It has disc brakes with a disc brake pedal, looks like aftermarket A/C. I dont know waht year it is. Are there any identifying marks? Thanks

pictures will help the most

THE VIN ON THE left front fender under hood lip by shock tower will help deciefer the year and so forth:D

did you buy it from the Unique Performance auction?:D

Thanks for the reply's! I'll get some pics up soon. The car doesn't have any fenders, hood, grill, bumpers or interior except dash & steering wheel. I bought from a body shop as a lein sale that a customer left two years ago. Are there any other areas to look for the VIN, like on the body shell or behind the dash? It has a 289 & C4.

ORIGINAL: mySAVIOReigns

did you buy it from the Unique Performance auction?:D


must have been from there.
when I read the title I thought ... christ almighty and reading no VIN means it must have been that aauction ...


without pictures we won't be able to tell but I have my money on "1967 fastback that was once supposed to be an eleanor clone ..."

what do the side scoop things look like? If they have three chrome bars sticking out, its a 66. What about the tail panel? If it sticks out (as opposed to curved inwards) it is a 65 or a 66. pics will help the most.

Congrats! You just bought a "Kit" car! Without a title and VIN number you have 2 choices. Either buy a parts car that has a title and VIN and transfer them over (this way its not a kit car), or you'll have to go to your locak DMV and register it as a kit car and they provide you with a new VIN. I'd look around for a parts car.

Post a few pics and we'll be able to tell you the year.

I'm pretty sure it's a '66'. I'm taking it down to the metal & found the side molding scoop area holes have been filled. The gauge cluster looks like all the other 66's I've seen. So far no rust or large amounts of bondo. The floors are excellent also. It has a aftermarket disc brake set up with a dual resivoir & aftermarket Classic Air set up. Someone put some money in this car at some point. I've been on the hunt for a parts car with a title without much luck yet. This is going to be a long project, so I'm sure I'll come across something. I appreciate the input & I'll keep you all updated! Thanks.

still no pictures?

Post up some pics!!

Either buy a parts car that has a title and VIN and transfer them over....

Buddy, this is really not the best advice and this is not the first time you've made this comment.

Transferring the VIN from one car to another is a crime punishable by imprisonment and a heavy fine. Worse yet, when caught the car will be confiscated and likely crushed or auctioned off (see the latest UP auction cars as an example).

You've qouted some reference that you've taken out of context as your source of information and you're flat out wrong.

Dave

hmm i always thought as long as you had a title and a "car" you could use that "car on your other car:D






dont know if that made any sense..


edited because i typed "ass" instead of "as"

it's done all the time.. I'm sure tons of people are doing it with new dynacorp Mustang bodies now also...

ORIGINAL: rbrown22

it's done all the time.. I'm sure tons of people are doing it with new dynacorp Mustang bodies now also...


Losta people jump off bridges all the time.
Losta people use crack all the time
Losta people......

First of all, tons of people DON'T routinely go around rebodying classic cars. Second of all even if 200,000 people a year were doing it, they would all still be breaking the law.

meh the way i see it just about everything is against the law nowadays...

It's still being done and you calling it a law will not stop it..

ORIGINAL: rbrown22

It's still being done and you calling it a law will not stop it..


True, but if everyone in the hobby severly frowned on it then it will not grow. Accepting the conditions around you and throwing your hands in the air saying 'everyone is doing it' is a defeatist attitude and will slowly allow/enable more morons to cut a vin out of one thing and weld it into another in the hopes of making a quick profit. :p

i can see where dodgestang is coming from.. but also, where would you draw the line saying this is no longer a car?
how much would you actually need to say that vin is correct?

in my eyes using a different vin is no different than restoring a car not to factory specs, with both cases the car is completely different (and sometimes all new, (all new sheet metal engine etc.)

Hey, doesn't this sound like my "how much car do you need for VIN" thread? I am reminded of the story of the farmer who proudly showed off his axe which had been in the family for over 100 years and still was used every day. "Of course, we've had to replace the handlesix times and the head four times." he explained. :D

ORIGINAL: honeygoldcoupe

Hey, doesn't this sound like my "how much car do you need for VIN" thread? I am reminded of the story of the farmer who proudly showed off his axe which had been in the family for over 100 years and still was used every day. "Of course, we've had to replace the handlesix times and the head four times." he explained. :D


the whole time reading this thread i thought of your "how much car do you need for a VIN"..
great story BTW.

Trying to get pic up

local://upfiles/94495/0E88A3F7C7BB4F559C1C854662D35955.jpg

got one to load, lets try more

local://upfiles/94495/78CDE8D84FA54704A9961BCCD5A8CF72.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/B811355E35B44B429F5C0D96C7A99EB0.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/131803156886485CAEC9C02B9981B616.jpg

These are from when I got the car home. I didn't know if it ran at the time, but it does now. I'll get some better pics up shortly.

Thats not too bad! About $1000 worth of sheet metal (give or take) and youll have a whole car..

Im bad with putting a year to the 64-66

Its a 66

That has a front clip!!! and should have the vin # stamped in to the top of the inner fender on the drivers side. As long as it has not been ground off than you should be good to go. Not having a title is way less headach to deal with than not having a vin.
ORIGINAL: agexperts

got one to load, lets try more

local://upfiles/94495/78CDE8D84FA54704A9961BCCD5A8CF72.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/B811355E35B44B429F5C0D96C7A99EB0.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/131803156886485CAEC9C02B9981B616.jpg

+1 Daze

actually it should have 3 vins on those rails

2 on the driver's side (one which would have been visible with the fender on) and one on the pass side which would have been under the fender.

local://upfiles/48146/8B119AA8EEB04F6EBC85454E7D6337F9.jpg

Thanks for the info on VIN locations. Looks like they're all gone. Oh well, the show must go on. Does anyone have any experience in removal of the inner fenders? I have just about half of the car stripped of paint, very solid. Now I just have to decide on a look, modern, classic, or a liitle of both.

The inner fenders? You mean the engine bay? That is all welded together and not easily removed, this is a unibody car not a framed one where everything can be unbolted. Why do you think you need to remove them?

If everyone were to rebody cars we are only going to have Boss, Shelby and every other valuable mustang in the future. In the long run it will impact all our cars.

I don't have to remove them, I was just curious if it was a big undertaking - sounds like it is. There are a few areas out of shape, but I'm not sure if the fenders will cover it. I need to get some front sheetmetal soon. As the teardown continues I'll post some pics of my progress. Thanks, for all your help.

Looks like they're all gone.

Are you 100% sure of this?

Do you know where they're supposed to be located? Someone use the word framerail earlier and this isn't correct. The VIN should be stamped on the top flat edge of the inner fender (where the top of the fender bolts onto). There will be two seperate stampings on the DS and one stamping on the PS. Often the VINs are hard to read if someones blasted too many coats of rattle can spray paint onto the panels.

Your VIN should be 11 digits with asterick (*) type symbols on each end.

I find it really hard to believe that they're not there.

Dave

I'm pretty sure someone went through the effort to remove them. I'll take some pics of the areas & maybe you can point something out that I missed.

Looks like it has doors....
Is there a plate on the drivers door?

I am not sure of the forum rules...but I found a site that has the wiring diagrams for every classic model year, could come in handy...I didnt see it in the FAQ, but there are so many links there.....I could have overlooked it.
The Mustang Shop

here are some pics from the underside of the inner fenders. any help making out the vin would be great. Thanks.

local://upfiles/94495/680F1E507993491598BB964ABED55544.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/4B77CF16DA2E4BA6ABEC7D3DAE29C507.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/30F1678369754C5AB5B9E00079471DA0.jpg

local://upfiles/94495/5A4A53C5DA3D4BCF801FAA0CF45BEACC.jpg

The top man, the top.. Clean it off.. :D

Almost looks like someone was trying to scrape off the VIN. Maybe it still has the slips of paper that are left inside of the front kick panels. And for the dynacorn bodies, some states have begun to issue new VINs, if requested, for them.

If you recieved a reciept with the car when you purchased it from a lein sale and the VIn numbers are still there you should be able to get a Title for the car. Check with your local DMV. As for finding the VIN do this: Walk over to the car and put your elbows down where the fenders would normally mount and dream about the engine you want to put inside the engine compartment. Now your elbows are sitting on the the fender aprons THAT is where you will find the VIN number stamped into the metal.

As has already been said the numbers are on the top, however if some one has ground them off and all you have is the punch through on the bottom side take a piece of paper place it over the numbers and do a crayon rubbing.

Just trying to look at the VIN I took a chance with it.

It could be: 6T07C******, 6F07C******,or 6T07T******. Those are as close as I can get to it with the way they grinded it.

http://iml.jou.ufl.edu/projects/students/Blommel/66.htm

If it says 07....stop looking.

Why stop looking if 07? To answer an earlier post, the top of the vin areas were ground off.
The bottoms are very difficult to make out. I went to the body shop I bought the car from & he offered to give me the money back for the car in return. But for $300 I'm not sure, I think either way I got a pretty good deal. The Good - No rust, V8 that runs well, A/C, disc brakes. The Bad - No front sheetmetal, no interior, no title, maybe no verifiable VIN. What do you Mustang Guru's think?

for $300.00 you stole the car it is worth way more than that just in parts. I would see if you can find another car and make the best of the two. Especially sense you only have 300 in to this one

ORIGINAL: agexperts

Why stop looking if 07? To answer an earlier post, the top of the vin areas were ground off.
The bottoms are very difficult to make out. I went to the body shop I bought the car from & he offered to give me the money back for the car in return. But for $300 I'm not sure, I think either way I got a pretty good deal. The Good - No rust, V8 that runs well, A/C, disc brakes. The Bad - No front sheetmetal, no interior, no title, maybe no verifiable VIN. What do you Mustang Guru's think?


heh...I said stop looking because that would mean coupe...I was thinking it was a fastback for some reason ;)

Sounds like you have a bit of a predicament.

Took a crack at it with Photoshop. The 7 doesn't look like it's right, but the only options for 65-66 were "07"-Hardtop "08"Fastback "09"Convertible.


local://upfiles/93501/BC506A6420F6442A99942242977CC2C6.jpg

ORIGINAL: 66StangNV

Took a crack at it with Photoshop. The 7 doesn't look like it's right, but the only options for 65-66 were "07"-Hardtop "08"Fastback "09"Convertible.


local://upfiles/93501/BC506A6420F6442A99942242977CC2C6.jpg



$300.00.... numbers you can't read.... no title.... will give you your money back....
take the numbers that 66stangNV shows and check it with local law enforcement now before you end up with nothing but a jail term for having stolen property

That 7 looks more like an 8...

ORIGINAL: retro77

That 7 looks more like an 8...

Yes, but it's clearly not a fastback.

I'd say there is too much grey area there....return it if you still can.

ok, go online and buy a 30$ can of dye penetrant and blotter, spraythe penetranton the locations of the vin #'s. let it sit for about 30 minutes. wipe off all of the penetrant annd spray on the blotter. the vin #'s are stamped into the metal which permanently distorts the sheet of metal all the way through to the other side. it is not visible to the naked eye but the penetrant will seep into the distorted areas. after a few minutes the blotter should react with any penetrant that seeped into the ground away vin. this might MIGHT get you a number to work with if it isnt to small or blurry to read. but itll cost you about 30-45$

airplanes that get restored from crashes have to have serial numbers to satisfy FAA requirements. this has been used to recover said s/n's on a few planes that were restored i had the chance to play with.

hope this helps


d.

Hey There,
I've got some good news! I found the build sheet behind the instrument panel. It's 6T07C153699. I'm gonna start the lein sale paperwork & hopefully there aren't any issues. Just about done stripping the car, not too bad, some bondo, but no rust. Got it up on jack stands & found aftermarket front & rear sway bars, newer coil springs & 11" disc brakes. I think I'll clean 'er up & get 'er going. Still on the hunt for a front sheetmetal group. Does anyone have any experience with late model wheels on these. I'm sure there are many references on the site, but just wondering. :D

Congrats on the find.

CONGRATS

late model wheels....theres been like 8000000 posts in the last week about em;).


1st gen stangs like a ~4.5" bacspacing. so if you get 01-04 bullits, you need a 1" spacer all around cause theyre 5.72" bs'ing. if you get 05+ bullits, you need 1 inch in back and 2" in front. cause the backspacing on the 05+'s are 6.25".