Why stop looking if 07? To answer an earlier post, the top of the vin areas were ground off. The bottoms are very difficult to make out. I went to the body shop I bought the car from & he offered to give me the money back for the car in return. But for $300 I'm not sure, I think either way I got a pretty good deal. The Good - No rust, V8 that runs well, A/C, disc brakes. The Bad - No front sheetmetal, no interior, no title, maybe no verifiable VIN. What do you Mustang Guru's think?
for $300.00 you stole the car it is worth way more than that just in parts. I would see if you can find another car and make the best of the two. Especially sense you only have 300 in to this one
Why stop looking if 07? To answer an earlier post, the top of the vin areas were ground off. The bottoms are very difficult to make out. I went to the body shop I bought the car from & he offered to give me the money back for the car in return. But for $300 I'm not sure, I think either way I got a pretty good deal. The Good - No rust, V8 that runs well, A/C, disc brakes. The Bad - No front sheetmetal, no interior, no title, maybe no verifiable VIN. What do you Mustang Guru's think?
heh...I said stop looking because that would mean coupe...I was thinking it was a fastback for some reason ;)
67 Coupe 3.55:1 9" Global West Negative Roll Suspension (Coil-over) 1" Drop Rear Leafs Shelby Drop 4 Wheel Disc Brakes Pioneer DEH-P6500MP Head Unit I6 - (soon to be 347 stroker)
Took a crack at it with Photoshop. The 7 doesn't look like it's right, but the only options for 65-66 were "07"-Hardtop "08"Fastback "09"Convertible.
Thumbnail Image
$300.00.... numbers you can't read.... no title.... will give you your money back.... take the numbers that 66stangNV shows and check it with local law enforcement now before you end up with nothing but a jail term for having stolen property
_____________________________
Sure its old but so am i........... as long as no parts are falling off either..... it all good
ok, go online and buy a 30$ can of dye penetrant and blotter, spray the penetrant on the locations of the vin #'s. let it sit for about 30 minutes. wipe off all of the penetrant annd spray on the blotter. the vin #'s are stamped into the metal which permanently distorts the sheet of metal all the way through to the other side. it is not visible to the naked eye but the penetrant will seep into the distorted areas. after a few minutes the blotter should react with any penetrant that seeped into the ground away vin. this might MIGHT get you a number to work with if it isnt to small or blurry to read. but itll cost you about 30-45$
airplanes that get restored from crashes have to have serial numbers to satisfy FAA requirements. this has been used to recover said s/n's on a few planes that were restored i had the chance to play with.
Hey There, I've got some good news! I found the build sheet behind the instrument panel. It's 6T07C153699. I'm gonna start the lein sale paperwork & hopefully there aren't any issues. Just about done stripping the car, not too bad, some bondo, but no rust. Got it up on jack stands & found aftermarket front & rear sway bars, newer coil springs & 11" disc brakes. I think I'll clean 'er up & get 'er going. Still on the hunt for a front sheetmetal group. Does anyone have any experience with late model wheels on these. I'm sure there are many references on the site, but just wondering.
late model wheels....theres been like 8000000 posts in the last week about em .
1st gen stangs like a ~4.5" bacspacing. so if you get 01-04 bullits, you need a 1" spacer all around cause theyre 5.72" bs'ing. if you get 05+ bullits, you need 1 inch in back and 2" in front. cause the backspacing on the 05+'s are 6.25".
Printable Version
RE: Just bought a shell, what year is it? - 
. 
