Well I guees its time to update . Do good news though. First off the kit came with the main bearings for a iron block so that ment a 2 week delay buy the time they went to Polydyn to be coated an got to me then the day after they got here my builder had to go in for back surgery that turned out to be a little more work than the had thought and that ment more recovory time ( but he is doing well now) then he comes back onlyto find that the rods would not fit so I sent the rods back to MMR last Fri. and after reveiwing the rods they called Manley who said they needed to machine .015 off the piston cap wall for the clearance needed with this rotating ass. for the parts to work together so they have done that for me as of today and will ship the rods back out tomarrow. I called Manley to verify this as I am very worried about these rods at this point ,and they said they were aware of some setups needing this kind of machineing with this rod and that I have nothing to worry about that MMR is very a reputable builder and seller of their parts , but the problem is I keep getting conflicting storys be tween the two companys . The rod is a Chevy rod (offset at the bottem) made to fit the ford pistons and Manley said this is how they have always built the I beam rods. Well MMR says the rod have always been with no offset but equal on both sides that is why they thought me and my builder were nuts when we said we had a offset rod . I just hope this is enough clearance . I really do not want any more delays . This really sucks the whole reason I went with the high dollar Billit Pro Series I Beam over the H Beam was for peice of mind and now all I can do is worry about this engine not comeing apart after its togetter even after MMR and Manley have both said it will be fine . Has anyone ever heard of this kind of a problem with Manley Billit Pro Seires I Beam rods or this problem in general (keep in mind these are Manley pistions as well) ? Here are pics of the old rods and the new ones . Also I have decided to take the car to Manny at HPP for the tunning and let him do his magic. After much thought I decided I need a local tunner for this car and I think he will be the best choice after visiting with him today.
The Manley Pro-series I rods are strong. The one thing is .....they are not billet! Many people say/give them that name, but they are a forged 4340 rod. I know Manley has a different forging process for them compared to the H-beams. For the price, I recommend Oliver Billet rods.
In any event, those rods will handle more than the block itself, so you are ok!
The problem is they are on the way back to me now with the piston caps clearenced .015 but they still do not have but .008 clearence per pair on the Kellogg crank and from what I understand per Manley they need .015-.025 per pair. So we still will have to machine them when they get here.
Do you have a list of all your tolerances, or is it per manufacture? Gonna be a blueprinted build or done in the garage? Mic'ing everything out I do suppose?
Badass build BTW!
< Message edited by CainMotorsports2102 -- 5/7/2008 10:35:11 AM >
Yes rod/main clearance. I do not know all of the tolerances. My builder said that it should have .015-.020 for the pair of rods and Manley says .015-.025 and we only have .008. And yes micing everything .
Yea we will once they get back in 4 days. I just cant believe MMR is sending them back to me saying that .008 for the pair is ok, maybe for one but not two and believe me I clarified that with them and they said it was fine for a coated rod but the coating is only .001 so that is not correct the way I see it.
Ya, I build Mopar Big blocks and Small blocks for a living, and we use coated rods at times on select builds, .001 to .001 with a 7 is usually a good index for coated rods, but still that doesnt make up for that kinda difference, and that is definitely a very tight rod side clearance. Fir the most part our stuff, you can visually check the rod side clearance, because as long as you put the chamferred in to the outside of the main, youll get your number, and anywhere from .015-.025 is usually what we look for as well. If its tighter, we cake a few thousands off on the rod bearings.
Rod side clearance, the space rod to rod, crank main end to crank main end, correct?
If you chamfer the chamfered side of the rod more, then it will go side to side up on that seat furthur, thus giving you more rod side clearance. You do have the chamfered ends going the correct way right?
We have to cut all our rod bearings anyways, so we know to look out for that extra but on a coated rod, so we take a little more off when chamfering them.
< Message edited by CainMotorsports2102 -- 5/7/2008 2:26:40 PM >
Are the tolerances that tight on the 1-2,3-4,5-6, and 7-8 mains? Or is it just on a few of the mains? Your working in super small numbers, you can make up the digits you need easily =)
Per Manley and MMR the chamfered side has to go to the inside on this application! I know, I know but that is what they said . The rods will not even go in with the chamfered side out like this rod would install on a chevy . I wish I would have known ahead of time that Manley uses a chevey forgeing for this application.
Look at the pic in post 46 at the offset on the bottom of the rod it is a chevy rod that Manley reworks to work in the ford setup so they dont have to use a differnt forgeing and that is per Manley. The ford rods are even on both sides.
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RE: GOING FOR 800 RWHP - 
