I'm ordering a passengers full floor pan, drivers long floor pan, both toeboards, passengers seat platform and front replacement torque boxes for our 67 coupe in the next few days. I've looked at a number of websites showing the procedure yet I still have a few questions.
What size holes should be drilled for the spot welds?
How far apart should the spot welds be?
Has anyone done a solid weld around the entire floor after spot welding for additional strength? I was asked this questions and didn't know. Would it be worthwhile running a full weld or just seam seal it after the spot welds?
The passengers front frame rail has come up through the missing floor about 3/8" since the floor has completely rusted away. The rail is straight just tipped up slightly. Whats the best way to correct this before doing the floor pans?
I'll be adding sub-frame connectors and was wondering if these should be done before or after the floors?
I'm guessing that because of the weakness due to the rusted floors that we should not put it on a rotisserie until after the floors or repaired correct? Once the floors are done we can pop it up on a rotisserie for media blasting.
I'll be doing the welding myself with my father and have a professional who will be coming by to give me a few lessons and pointers. I could have him do it pretty cheap however I want to do as much work on the car as I can myself.
Any other pointers you all may have would be great! Thanks.
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Currently: 67 Mustang Coupe C-Code 289 with C4 Restomodding: 68 Shelby Fiberglass Hood/Trunk/Scoops/Grill, 351W, 4-Speed Manual Toploader, CSRP Disk Brakes, Ron Francis Wiring, Sequential Stock 67 Taillights, PS, PB, PW, PL, AC, New Interior, & more!
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Floorpan replacement questions - 
