so today I almost had to come home and post pics of something terrible becuase I almost got T-Boned.. (the good part is that in the end I came out unscathed)
So turning left out of a parking lot, I saw that there were no cars coming from the right (2 lanes in each direction), so I looked left to see a car turning into the lot--coast looked clear.. I checked back to the right (being the cautious driver I am..) and started to make the left. But very unluckily there was a car that was blocked from view by the car turning into the lot which was flying towards me (faster than speedlimit.. at least I think so.. I didnt care to recheck and waste time in the middle of the intersection). So I am about to get T-boned by this car and it breaks pretty hard and I gun it making the left.. My car did a large fishtail, kickin back and forth from the open diff.. I caught it the first time it kicked but the open diff over corrected again, causing the car to swing around more.. after regaining control and not dying I went on with my day.. kinda bothered by the way the car "drifted" after I gunned it..
Now after that lengthy story my question is this:
If I had a T-Lok, would I have been able to regain control after the car fishtailed once, or wud the same thing have happened regardless?
I hope this makes sense.. anyone who has had the car lose control for a second knows the snap the car does do correct it..
T-Lok would have helped both tires get traction. However, with the power our cars have without some decent tires, t-lok would have not helped much. Since I put my Nitto 555's on, I have alot more traction, better tires would have helped you out, and add a t-lok ontop of that it would have been a bonus as well.
I have a question about the T-Loc. With the T-Loc is the axel locked completely or is it more like a limited slip differential? My concern with a lot of city driving that if both back wheels are locked then I will get premature wear when the outside wheels turning radius is greater than the inside wheel.
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2007 Black P.P. Prem V6 M&M Sequential Taillights Cervini's C-Series Side Scoops SHR Flush Mounted ¼ Window Louvers Stangpede of KY
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the GT comes standard with t-lok/lsd. just seems like a marketing strategy to keep a balance about which features will go on which car so that niether one gets left behind in expected sales.
Unless you put in a spool (or weld the side/spider gears), there will always be some slip in the diff.
Or you could get a locker.. *CLUNK*
LOL
My dad talks about a "CLUNK" from the old days. So all the have to do is open up the diff drop the axels and put in the T-Loc and most everyone tells me that is also the best time to put gears in as well. I was thinking about the 3.73s instead of the 4.10s I will not be going to the track for anything other than myself. I'm just looking for more or less street performance. With the T-Loc and 3.73s, is that all I'll need or will I have to go with a 8.8 rear end. If that is the case should I just go with a GT take off. I have the pony package if that makes a differance.
Also can anyone direct me to a site or vender so that I can purchase what I need.
< Message edited by Epimetheus -- 3/4/2008 9:26:39 AM >
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2007 Black P.P. Prem V6 M&M Sequential Taillights Cervini's C-Series Side Scoops SHR Flush Mounted ¼ Window Louvers Stangpede of KY
Posts: 2622
Joined: 10/11/2005 From: Southern California Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Epimetheus
My dad talks about a "CLUNK" from the old days. So all the have to do is open up the diff drop the axels and put in the T-Loc and most everyone tells me that is also the best time to put gears in as well. I was thinking about the 3.73s instead of the 4.10s I will not be going to the track for anything other than myself. I'm just looking for more or less street performance. With the T-Loc and 3.73s, is that all I'll need or will I have to go with a 8.8 rear end. If that is the case should I just go with a GT take off. I have the pony package if that makes a differance.
Also can anyone direct me to a site or vender so that I can purchase what I need.
i have ford 3.73's and FRPP t-lok in my garage waiting to be installed. hopefully tomorrow if i can get an appointment in today. i will post a thread on my experience with these LONG AWAITED gears. as to where i purchased, t-lok was $195 (FREE shippping) from chipsv6specialties.com. good vendor. i will definitley purchase through chip again. gears are used but in excellent condition. the plus to this is that they are Ford oem and already broken in.
< Message edited by Sancho805 -- 3/4/2008 9:56:34 AM >
I am having 3.73's anf a t-lok put in, both FRPP. It cost me $785 for parts, labor & tax. I will give you a review once they are broken in, because I will have my gears/t-lok for about a week before my CAI/Tune comes in.
And I went 3.73's because I too have heard that is the best ratio for F/I which is a possibility, if I don't go F/I, then its because I am satisfied with my setup, either way is a win win.
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Joined: 1/3/2007 From: Southeast Virginia Status: offline
Just this past Friday I was pulling out of a gas station, like you I check left then right then left again and all was clear. Then out of now where was this woman in a mini-van talking on the cell phone right in front of me! I almost T-Boned her! My guess is she pulled out of a car lot and didn't even look to see if the coast was clear. I'm so glad all is well!
You don't need a GT rear unless you spend A LOT of time a the track.. and even then.. It would take FI power to break our rears.
I did the 3.73/t-lok combo and could not be happier. At first I did not notice much of a difference because I was taking it easy... but for an auto.. it basically keeps the car "ready" to take off at any time.. that's the way I would describe it.
I like the t-lok because that is what i am used to; it's harder to break traction, but once you do you lose it in both wheels.. which makes you fishtail. Personally, I find this car to be very predictable, and have no problems when the rear slips out a little.. especially when i do it on purpose
You will notice a big difference in traction when pulling out of a parking lot/gas station. When turning right, and if you take off with an open differential, you will really burn your drive (right) tire. With a t-lok, your driver's side tire will grip, allowing you to actually take off and not squeal your peg leg.
quote:
ORIGINAL: Epimetheus
quote:
ORIGINAL: exx1976
Unless you put in a spool (or weld the side/spider gears), there will always be some slip in the diff.
Or you could get a locker.. *CLUNK*
LOL
My dad talks about a "CLUNK" from the old days. So all the have to do is open up the diff drop the axels and put in the T-Loc and most everyone tells me that is also the best time to put gears in as well. I was thinking about the 3.73s instead of the 4.10s I will not be going to the track for anything other than myself. I'm just looking for more or less street performance. With the T-Loc and 3.73s, is that all I'll need or will I have to go with a 8.8 rear end. If that is the case should I just go with a GT take off. I have the pony package if that makes a differance.
Also can anyone direct me to a site or vender so that I can purchase what I need.
Printable Version
Would T-Lok have helped? - 
(the good part is that in the end I came out unscathed) 
RE: Would T-Lok have helped? - 
