Alright due to popular demand, here is a little more in depth explanation of what I did during my engine bay doll up.
So I took on this intense project over a 3 day weekend on my Daily Driver. A few weeks before hand I bought a take off set of valve covers off of Ebay and painted them one at a time during my spare time. I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel http://duplicolor.com/products/engine.html which is good for high temps. I used TacoBills "Cam Cover" write up ( http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3402092/tm.htm ) to assist with my valve covers and his "CMCV Delete Plate" write up ( http://www.mustangforums.com/m_3296684/tm.htm ) to assist with the fuel rail removal. Here's the breakdown of my days.
Day 1: I pulled off my fuel rails, prepped and painted them letting them cure overnight.
Day 2: I swapped the valve covers and installed the fuel rails
Day 3: I removed the throttle body, painted it and let it cure for a couple of hours before putting it back on...VOILA!
As a reminder, I'm willing to prep and paint my take off set of valve covers whatever color you choose...in return I just want to trade for a set of Charge Motion Delete Plates. Act fast though because I move in 13 days and kinda want it to be wrapped up before that...
Now here's the nitty gritty details.
I sanded all of my parts down with 200 grit sandpaper and then sprayed and scrubbed them down with brake parts cleaner.
Once they were prepped, I taped them off and painted 3 coats of Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Primer. Take your time and start with a light coat...you DON'T want it to drip. *PAINTING TIP: Spray the hard to reach areas FIRST to help avoid drips and runs*
I then began applying my chosen color of Dupli-Color Engine Enamel. I went with "Chrysler Hemi Orange" because it is the closest to "Burnt Orange" (I'm a huge Longhorns fan)
After applying 3 coats of color, allowing about 10 mins between coats, I wait for the final coat to get pretty dry and then I chose to apply a high temp decal that I purchased from www.xenonmods.com. These decals are commonly used on brake calipers and are also good for high temps. This took alot of patience and I used a razorblade to help get it off the backing without destroying the paint that I had just put down.
After applying the decal, I applied Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Clearcoat. Begining with a light coat and the final coat being quite liberal. By me applying it ON TOP of the decals, it provides it some protection from lifting due to common wear and tear or when I wipe it down for normal cleaning.
Here is how I went about painting the Fuel Rails. I taped off the bottom of the rail (just the actual opening where the fuel injector plugs in) and I taped off the "bell" part of where the fuel actually enters the rail. There is a clip there and I knew that it would chip the paint off anyway. Speaking of which, I'd recommend purchasing the special tool needed to remove that from the fuel inlet tube. I had to fashion something out of an old credit card which was a PITA!!! *NOTE: Use a clean rag and clean off the spraying ends of your fuel injectors...this will no doubt improve performance.*
Initially I attempted to remove the plastic ends from the Throttle Body but when I did I noticed a spring under tension inside and I didn't want to mess with any of the inner workings so I simply taped it all off. The exception to this is the D-Cell battery looking part that protrudes on the Driver's Side of the TB. I taped off the base and painted that part as well. *NOTE: Clean out the soot and what not from the inside of the TB since you already have it off of your car.*
Now lets get down to the mechanical what not of this operation. Here are some baseline pics to compare with once all the painted parts have been installed.
First thing you need to do is clean up around your fuel injectors and Coil Over Plugs. This is to prevent whatever debris from falling into places that you DON'T want it. I used my vacuum that I keep in my cleaning kit in my trunk.
Notice the dirt built up?
Notice it gone now? (mostly)
Once it's clean enough, you need to start your engine. While the engine is running, remove the Fuel Pump fuse from the fuse box under the hood. I'm not sure which number it is, I know it's the large gray one in the middle closest to the firewall. Reference your manual if you're unsure. With it removed your engine will die and burn up alot of fuel from the rails so there is less to spill later. Then you need to disconnect your battery terminals...in fact you might as well just remove the battery and tray all together. Now we're going to remove the fuel rails so we need to unplug the injectors.
Pop these little bad boys off and then unscrew to loosen the fuel rails.
Unplug...
This is the part that you will need the special tool. Make sure you have a couple of rags handy to soak up the gas and that you've finished off that Marlboro Red hanging off your lip...
Grasp the rails and simply pull up...It worked better for me to start lifting from one end unplugging 1 injector at a time. The O-rings on the injectors are the only things holding the rails on at this point. There are some small retainer clips that are holding the injectors to the fuel rail. Remove the clips and pull the injectors out using a twisting motion (also held in by O-rings) I went ahead and put the fuel injectors back in their holes to prevent any dust or debris from falling in. I even went as far as taping the open ends of the fuel injectors themselves.
This is where I painted my fuel rails but since we've already covered that lets move on to the valve covers. Here I have removed my COPs. I'd recommend using compressed air (or computer air for us nerds) to blow away and dust and blow dust from out of your spark plug opening, that's what I did anyway.
I have no pics of me removing or installing the valve covers but refer to TacoBills write up cause he has covered this quite well. Something I did was put a few strips of painters tape over the covers while installing to prevent any scratching or chipping of the paint, especially on the passengers side. The passengers side was BY FAR more difficult due to the cable bundles being quite tight and not having very much give to maneuver with. I decided to leave off the oil filler neck and just put the cap directly on the valve cover.
I hadn't planned on painting my Throttle Body, but once I got the Fuel Rails and Valve Covers on I realized just how out of place it looked
Taking off the Throttle Body isn't anything difficult. It is 2 screws and 2 bolts. Not hard but it REALLY seemed to pull it all together. Go ahead and compare the finished product to the baseline pics....freakin WOW!!!
Looks, good, just not sure about Hemi orange on a Ford
Yeah everyone is kinda cautious about that. I wanted something 'Burnt Orange' and it was the closest match. I was kinda weary about the 'Hemi' cause I knew I was going to get hell for it...but I just couldn't bring myself to use 'Road Contruction Orange' under my hood....I'd rather take the flaming. But you gotta admit...it turned out pretty damn SCHWEET!!!
That looks amazing! that color just works for some reason,I like it
_____________________________
07' Vista Blue GT Procharger P1SC-1 500rwhp/420 tq 18x9/18x10 Anthracite Bullits BMR Lca's / Panhard bar Bassani catted X pipe Mac axle back AutoMeter cobalt boost/vac - Wideband A/F
How do you like the K and N CAI? Do you have a tune and if not, does it perform better than the stock box also without a tune?
I like it. Well it seems to do the trick but then again I don't have anything to compare it to. It doesn't require a tune to install it, but I did get a tune just to fully exploit the gains.
Printable Version
Pure Sexy Eye Candy for dummies (56K suicide) - 
