Hi, I posted earlier this week that I installed a Pertronix Igniter II on my 65 Mustang, 200 cc. I thought all was good until I put the car in gear; the engine dies everytime after about 30 seconds of putting the car in gear. I have searched all threads on this forum for this problem and still do not know what to do. I know that it is wired correctly, however, could it be the resister ballast? Are there any other adjustments that I need to make. Prior to this install, the car ran great. Any suggestions are helpul.
some people are not easily pleased. first they want the engine to run, and now they want to drive the car as well ...
do you have auto trans or manual do you have power assisted brakes what carburator do you have ? autolite 1100 or any other?
points in a distributor have huge affect on the ignition advance. So maybe the points were misadjusted and the ignition timed to that. now that you have no points and dwell correct at all times, the ignition timing might be all wrong now.
Did you time your ignition advance after install ? Do you have a timing strobe ?
sorry ... forgot to mention. with the Ignitor I you can leave the ballasst resistor, with yours (pertronix II) you should bypass the ballast resitor (the pink wire). The manual should say so. Try this before you check on anything else.
Kalli
< Message edited by kalli -- 2/20/2008 5:46:37 AM >
_____________________________
1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
I found this text in a previous tread. Where is "the 12 volt swithched source of the ignition." I would like to bypass the resistor. Thanks
"The pertronix will work with a minimum of 7.5 volts, but most guys prefer to not push the lower limit and hook theirs up to the 12 volt switched source off the ignition. That's where mine is hooked up and I hardly even hear the starter turn over before the engine has started. I mean, it's like a nano second. On edit: Yes, test the coil at idle"
pull the instument cluster,, find the pink wire coming off the back of the ignition switch,,there will be a small buldge in the wire,,,tap into the pink wire between the fire wall and the buldge,, NOT BETWEEN the buldge and the igniton switch,,, 12 volts before buldge,, 7.5 or so between buldge and igtion switch,, you need 12 volts to make pertronix fly
az1966: Do I tie into the wire between the ignition switch and the resistor or between the resistor and the firewall? In other words, do I tie into the ignition side of the resistor? thanks alot!!!!!
you basically want to get rid of the resistor. It's like a heart bypass operation ...
_____________________________
1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
Ok, I know I sound like and idiot, but, this is really getting frustrating. Here is the wiring I did today.
1) Cut the red wire between the ignition switch and the resistor (pink wire), 2) Connected an auxilary wire at the cut point, 3) Connected the auxilary wire to the positive side of the coil, 4) I did not reconnect the pink wire.
My car still runs rough and dies when shifted into gear. To test the volts to the coil, I used my multimeter; negative (black) to the negative side of the coil and positive (red) to the postive side of the coil. The volt read at 6.80.
Question: WTH, what am I doing wrong here! I've read all the treads on this forum and the instructions with the Igniter II a 1,000 times.
Should I? : leave the pink wire connected to the coil and connect the splice wire (from ignition) straight to the Pertornix Igniter II module.
I am a pretty good backyard mechanic, but, this has been a stumper for me! Thanks for any help and suggestions.
I have to wait until I get home but you should not have had this much trouble. It took me 15 minutes to install mine.
_____________________________
Ed Walden ----------------------------------------------------------------- 1954 Ford F-100 312 Y-Block Built for speed/9"Rearend/Aerostar Front IFS 2006 Ford F-150 1972 Ford Mustang Grande Coupe 2002 Triumph Trophy 1200
One wire from the battery to the coil positive. One wire from the coil negative to the distributer and the last wire from the distributer to the ignition and if you are still getting low voltage after that then your starter solenoid is bad.
_____________________________
Ed Walden ----------------------------------------------------------------- 1954 Ford F-100 312 Y-Block Built for speed/9"Rearend/Aerostar Front IFS 2006 Ford F-150 1972 Ford Mustang Grande Coupe 2002 Triumph Trophy 1200
number 1 why cut the wire "?: a Vampire/wire tap would do the job,, as I said NOT BEWTEEN THE BULGE AND THE SWITCH !!! between the buldge and the firewall YOU HAVE TO HAVE 12 Volts to make Pertronixs work right
I'd say lets start from scratch. pictures say more than 1000 words, so I painted a little diagram.
beware: I have never installed one, but that's the only way this lot makes sense ...
the ballast resistor is there to provide 7.5V+ to the coil. this is what the factory coil wants. The Ignitor II module needs 12V+ on the red cable, so we can't take it from coil+. That's why we need to go between ballast and ignition key to rob it from there. You can splice the cable and rob it from there instead of cutting it all up. If it's cut already, just put the lot back together.
I hope the diagram explains what you'll have to do. If you still have problems, please let us know: (as you have a mulimeter). What's the voltage measured from where you spliced to battery minus when ignitionkey is in 'on' position ?
Kalli PS: when you cut and got rid of the resistor altogether, then you robbed the coild of the 7.5V+ during run. That might explain why the engine stops as soon as it's started ...?! sop make sure you just add this cable spliced to the existing connection, not remove the old one altogether.
< Message edited by kalli -- 2/22/2008 6:06:37 AM >
_____________________________
1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
Yes, the wiring exhibit is correct. My car runs great. After I completed the wiring, there was a slight engine miss. I checked the ignition timing and is was off. I think that I may have bumped it during the install. Anyway, a happy ending here! I really appreciate everyone's time and suggestions. I hope that over time I may be able to provide information to this forum rather than always asking for help. Thanks again.
nice one ! timing will always be wrong when changing to pertronix from points. reason for this is that dwell has great influence on ignition timing dwell to big (pointer gap too short) will retard timing dwell to small (pointer gap to big) will advance timing just for the reason the pointer opens earlier. Add on that that the pertronix II will adjust its dwell according to engine rpm. so changing to Pertronix II without adjusting timing is quite pointless (so that's how Frasier Crane must feel)
great to hear all is good.
Kalli
_____________________________
1964 1/2 289 2bbl (autolite 2100) with holley headers and flowmaster 40s new: Quick Performance Racing 9" rear, Moser axles, 3.5:1 trac loc from FRPP and T5. CSRP disc brakes front and FRPP discs back. New wheels and tyres
Printable Version
Pertronix Igniter II Adjustments - 
