I'll be waiting until the 100,000 mile mark (nearly 50,000 miles on the clock now). If I changed the plugs every 12,000 miles, I'd be doing it every 4 1/2 months! Hell, these plugs + fuel injection + unleaded gas should equal very high mileage before a swap is necessary due to a drop in performance. After I swapped a new High Performance 350 into my 70 Chevelle in 1996 with HEI instead of points ignition, I easily ran 70,000 miles on regular AC R44TS plugs. The plug wires would have to be changed before the plugs! Of course, as with the GT, the Chevelle saw mostly high speed highway driving, everyday, since 1970. These cars should do better, what with the better fuel delivery and ignition systems.
< Message edited by MalibuJerry350 -- 3/27/2008 10:50:03 AM >
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2006 Mustang GT Tungsten Grey Metallic 57 Chevy Belair 70 Chevelle, original owner with 676,000 miles on clock!
Remember, the plugs "wearing out" is not the question here, it's the plugs seizing in the head. You're 100% right, the engine will probably run great to 100,000 miles, but you will most likely have a tough time getting them (and the broken pieces) out. Your Chevelle never had plugs designed like this. It's apples and oranges. Anti-seize is a beautiful thing.
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2006 Premium GT Convertible Screaming Yellow, Black Top Black Leather Interior Upgrade Pkg. 5 Speed Side Airbags 18" "Fanblade Wheels" Shaker 500 Audio System CORSA Performance exhaust Brenspeed 87 octane tune MGW Shifter
I have 3600 on the clock, '08 GT convert. My mechanic will give it a go. Might I ask what gap you are using, be it the champion plug or other. Thanks Bob
I was on another mustang forum and somebody with an 08 GT pulled the the plugs and they are a new design, looks like they tapped the head all the way down to combustion chamber and the plugs are threaded the full length, might want to wait before buying plugs.
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"OLD SAILORS NEVER DIE, WE JUST SMELL THAT WAY" 06 GT Tungsten Mods: To many to list
Posts: 489
Joined: 1/8/2005 From: Chesterfield, Virginia Status: offline
I just changed all of mine yesterday. I have 43,000 miles on the originals. First I let the car sit overnight then I broke each plug loose and then retightened, then turned them out slowly. The plugs made a vibrating squeak which I feel either helped break the carbon loose or my plugs were not that bad. I had a flutter miss after installing the KB so I went to the HT0's and the car pulls hard all the way through with no miss now. Just my two cents.
I just changed all of mine yesterday. I have 43,000 miles on the originals. First I let the car sit overnight then I broke each plug loose and then retightened, then turned them out slowly. The plugs made a vibrating squeak which I feel either helped break the carbon loose or my plugs were not that bad. I had a flutter miss after installing the KB so I went to the HT0's and the car pulls hard all the way through with no miss now. Just my two cents.
Did you use penetrating oil or carb cleaner?
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2005 Mustang GT/Manual/C&L Street CAI/Doug's 93 Race Tune
Remember, the plugs "wearing out" is not the question here, it's the plugs seizing in the head. You're 100% right, the engine will probably run great to 100,000 miles, but you will most likely have a tough time getting them (and the broken pieces) out. Your Chevelle never had plugs designed like this. It's apples and oranges. Anti-seize is a beautiful thing.
Correct me if I am wrong, but wont the anti-seize burn off from the heat?
ORIGINAL: r6allstar Correct me if I am wrong, but wont the anti-seize burn off from the heat?
You're wrong. The antiseize required per the Ford TSB is "Nickel" antiseize. It will not burn off like copper or aluminum antiseize. Nickel will stand up to high combustion chamber temperature and pressure.
Well, I followed the TSB to a "T". I used the Motorcraft recommended carb cleaner and I let the plugs sit overnight after breaking them free a quarter turn. The results?....after 96,500 original miles and following the TSB...1 plug broke off in the head. I will be commenting in a separate thread on what exactly I did, but here's some pics...
Sorry guys, but you can put ALL the anti seize you want on the threads, but that won't prevent the electrode shield from twisting off and remaining in the head. BUT, at least the plug will be easier to remove....once the shield snaps off. This is a design flaw, plain and simple. As I said, I'll wait until I HAVE to change plugs and THEN deal with it. If the plugs sanp off, I'll pull the heads. No biggie. Rebuilt enough engines, tranny's and cars over the years not to sweat this problem.
< Message edited by MalibuJerry350 -- 3/29/2008 2:56:15 PM >
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2006 Mustang GT Tungsten Grey Metallic 57 Chevy Belair 70 Chevelle, original owner with 676,000 miles on clock!
I'm tackling the spark plug removal right now, and am trying to break the plugs loose 1/8-1/4 turn per the TSB. I have my torque wrench set to 30, and it's not enough because not one has broken loose. I am a bit hesitant to go up in torque. For those who have done this successfully, how much torque was needed for the initial break free. (I know the removal torque is about 33 lb/ft once their broken free, but the TSB doesn't specify the break-loose torque).
I'm tackling the spark plug removal right now, and am trying to break the plugs loose 1/8-1/4 turn per the TSB. I have my torque wrench set to 30, and it's not enough because not one has broken loose. I am a bit hesitant to go up in torque. For those who have done this successfully, how much torque was needed for the initial break free. (I know the removal torque is about 33 lb/ft once their broken free, but the TSB doesn't specify the break-loose torque).
richmod - 32.5 lb/ft broke all of mine...some i had to crank a few times but it was enough...
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2006 Black GT Manual- 120,000 Trouble-Free Miles! - Steeda CAI w/SCT VMP 93 Tune - Steeda UDPs - Hurst Shifter - Steeda Sport Springs - Steeda Pro Action Struts/Shocks - Steeda Adj. Panhard - Steeda Rear Sway Bar
I never had a problem changing mine. I changed them when I installed my SC. I have taken them out a few times since and no problems. I haven't looked at them in about a year though. Maybe I should look
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05GT, Saleen s/c (10lb pulley/39lb injctrs), dual pump gt500 fuel sys, Steeda alum dshaft, 3.73 FRPP, kooks long tubes with hi flos, steeda tri-ax, Eibach pro kit, spec 2+ clutch/alum flywheel, 18x10 and 18x9 deep dish bullits
I never had a problem changing mine. I changed them when I installed my SC. I have taken them out a few times since and no problems. I haven't looked at them in about a year though. Maybe I should look
Same here matt.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
Posts: 489
Joined: 1/8/2005 From: Chesterfield, Virginia Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: ski
quote:
ORIGINAL: td1320
I just changed all of mine yesterday. I have 43,000 miles on the originals. First I let the car sit overnight then I broke each plug loose and then retightened, then turned them out slowly. The plugs made a vibrating squeak which I feel either helped break the carbon loose or my plugs were not that bad. I had a flutter miss after installing the KB so I went to the HT0's and the car pulls hard all the way through with no miss now. Just my two cents.
Did you use penetrating oil or carb cleaner?
Sorry for the late reply but I didn't use anything. I just broke them loose and backed them up and then turned em out slowly. They all came out easy. You have to pretend you are taking out old exhaust bolts. If you just snap em all at once you'll be haten life.
I just changed all of mine yesterday. I have 43,000 miles on the originals. First I let the car sit overnight then I broke each plug loose and then retightened, then turned them out slowly. The plugs made a vibrating squeak which I feel either helped break the carbon loose or my plugs were not that bad. I had a flutter miss after installing the KB so I went to the HT0's and the car pulls hard all the way through with no miss now. Just my two cents.
Did you use penetrating oil or carb cleaner?
Sorry for the late reply but I didn't use anything. I just broke them loose and backed them up and then turned em out slowly. They all came out easy. You have to pretend you are taking out old exhaust bolts. If you just snap em all at once you'll be haten life.
I think you were playing with fire. Glad it worked out for you though.
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2007 GT Coupe Premium Windveil Blue, 3.31, Auto, 18" Fanblades, Interior Upgrade, Active Anti-Theft, Side Bags, Leather, K&N Drop-in, Splash Guards, 14" Antenna, Rolled Tips, Born on date...3/07
I have 3600 on the clock, '08 GT convert. My mechanic will give it a go. Might I ask what gap you are using, be it the champion plug or other. Thanks Bob
I was on another mustang forum and somebody with an 08 GT pulled the the plugs and they are a new design, looks like they tapped the head all the way down to combustion chamber and the plugs are threaded the full length, might want to wait before buying plugs.
This is not the case with my '08 GT. It uses the same plugs as the '07; Motorcrafdt SP 462, which is what I removed with 300 miles on the clock. No antiseize from factory either. I went back in with another set of SP 462's.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO TOW NECESSARY TALK ABOUT SWEATING BULLETS. ALL PLUGS ARE OUT WITH NO BREAKS. PRAYER DOES WORK. SO THE WHOLE JOB COST WAS $70 TOTAL (HT1 PLUGS $46 SHIPPED ON EBAY AND THE MOTORCRAFT CARB CLEANER + ANTISEIZE WAS $24 AT THE DEALER). THANKS TO ALL WHO HAVE PAVED THE WAY.
HERE'S THE PROCEDURE I USED:
DEAD COLD ENGINE
3/4 TEASPOON MOTORCRAFT CARB CLEANER USING SYRINGE IN EACH PLUG WELL AFTER LOOSENING 1/8TH TURN
LET WICK DOWN FOR 30 MINUTES
TURN ANOTHER 1/8TH TURN; WAITED ANOTHER 30 MINUTES TO WICK DOWN
USED SAME SYRINGE TO DRAW EXCESS FLUID OUT OF PLUG WELL TO AVOID ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY GOING INTO THE CYLINDER
REMOVE PLUGS VERY METHODICALLY - IF ANY NOTICEABLE RESISTANCE, REVERSE AND TIGHTEN 1/4 TURN, THEN BEGIN LOSSENING AGAIN.
I also paid $24.00 for the antiseize, but at NAPA. It was the only place i could find it. Nobody at the parts stores in my town, even knew what it was when I asked, so NAPA it was. Today I was in another town east of home and found the same Permatex antiseize for $6.99 at Pep Boys. $24.00 at NAPA $6.99 at Pep Boys. Go figure.
I guess I'll comment here. You guys had be really worried so I went ahead and pulled my plugs to put anti-seize on them. Luckily they all came out fine. I have about 17000 miles on my car and I'm very glad that I did pull them now because 2 of them were very, very tight. They looked awful once I got them out. My advice it to go really really slow when turning your rachet. I followed the TSB except I used PB Blaster instead of carb cleaner. I'm leaving the plugs out over night because I ran out of anti-seize and have to pick up some more tomorrow. Anyways thank you guys for worrying me because I think it is going to save me in the log run.
Printable Version
RE: Scary Plug Change - 
These cars should do better, what with the better fuel delivery and ignition systems.
TALK ABOUT SWEATING BULLETS
. ALL PLUGS ARE OUT WITH NO BREAKS. PRAYER DOES WORK. SO THE WHOLE JOB COST WAS $70 TOTAL (HT1 PLUGS $46 SHIPPED ON EBAY AND THE MOTORCRAFT CARB CLEANER + ANTISEIZE WAS $24 AT THE DEALER). THANKS TO ALL WHO HAVE PAVED THE WAY. 
