Well, after reading all the horror stories, I'm going to pull & replace the plugs in my '06 GT with 38K miles. I have a new set of HT1 plugs, my socket, Permatex nickel anti-sieze and Aerokroil. I am nervous as heck but I figure I've already waited longer than I should have. I am so angry at Ford for this horrible design flaw. I love my Mustang, but I shouldn't have to fear changing the damn plugs. I'd love to see a class action law suit over this, Ford should bleed.
< Message edited by Goldenpony -- 2/13/2008 3:07:22 AM >
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2006 Premium GT Convertible Screaming Yellow, Black Top Black Leather Interior Upgrade Pkg. 5 Speed Side Airbags 18" "Fanblade Wheels" Shaker 500 Audio System CORSA Performance exhaust Brenspeed 87 octane tune MGW Shifter
I have experienced this first hand. I broke the first plug on the left bank when I made this jump. You may want to look up TSB 06-15-2. I have it but cant attach PDF here for some reason.
Advice:
1. Get some PB buster or a good penetrate.
2. Get your engine up to operating temperature first THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. When you get up to temp drive it a few More miles to let it heat soak.
3. Pull all of the coils, as you do squirt some penitent in the hole.
4. Use a torque wrench to remove the plugs do not exceed 25 ft lbs of torque while removing. If you do stop use more penitent.
Mystang, I'm surprised this job should be done with the engine heated up. I always read with aluminum heads the plugs should be removed with the engine dead cold.
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2006 Premium GT Convertible Screaming Yellow, Black Top Black Leather Interior Upgrade Pkg. 5 Speed Side Airbags 18" "Fanblade Wheels" Shaker 500 Audio System CORSA Performance exhaust Brenspeed 87 octane tune MGW Shifter
It's the least of 2 evils. The carbon-soot will be softer when warm. You don't want the engine REAL hot. Just warm. Let it run for a few m inutes is all. Note that the engine will cool down as you struggle to get them out so allow for some cool down time or just restart to warm back up.
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2007 GT Coupe Premium Windveil Blue, 3.31, Auto, 18" Fanblades, Interior Upgrade, Active Anti-Theft, Side Bags, Leather, K&N Drop-in, Splash Guards, 14" Antenna, Rolled Tips, Born on date...3/07
I talked to the dealership service dept. today. He said yes, he had heard of this problem, but that it is much more common in the 5.4L in the trucks. God, I hope this is so.
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2006 Premium GT Convertible Screaming Yellow, Black Top Black Leather Interior Upgrade Pkg. 5 Speed Side Airbags 18" "Fanblade Wheels" Shaker 500 Audio System CORSA Performance exhaust Brenspeed 87 octane tune MGW Shifter
In case any of you are in doubt here is the pictures of the plug and the tool I made to remove it. Also you need to get the engine up to operating temperature. The attached broken plug is the result of not heading that warning in the TSB. When the engine was hot enough all of the rest of the plugs came out with out any problems, however I did use the penetrating oil on all of them.
I pulled my plugs at 10k miles. Engine was cold, no penetrating oil, no problems. I used my torque wrench to remove them and set it on 25 ft lbs. I removed them again at 12,000 miles when I added the whipple and HTO's. I had very little carbon build up after 10k miles.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
wow I never encountered this problem but I always pulled the plugs when the car was warm. I had not even heard of this problem. I have changed my plugs 3 times. The first time I replaced the stocks @ 60,000 miles and put in HT1's and after 5,000 miles the car would stutter @ 5500 RPM's and above in 3rd and 4th gear no matter what I did. I then replaced the plugs with stocks and the car ran perfect and felt like it picked up 20HP. I will never use the HT1's again.
Well, I'm screwed. Absolutely went by the letter of the TSB, did everything just as directed and the second plug broke off-in the worst way, the porcelain stayed in the lower part of the plug. I just threw in the towel, called AAA and had the POS trucked to the dealership where I bought it.
I am so depressed right now I could just croak. This car only has 38K miles (of course, 2 K past warranty) on the clock and God knows how much it will cost to fix it, and if it will ever be the same. This is the first car I ever ordered from the factory and was my retirement gift to myself. At this point, I doubt I'll ever buy another Ford product. I wish to heaven I had taken it in to the dealer before the warranty expired-but I didn't. If you have a Ford vehicle with the 3V heads, I would trade it before you need new plugs. Good luck to you, brothers.
< Message edited by Goldenpony -- 2/16/2008 4:24:39 PM >
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2006 Premium GT Convertible Screaming Yellow, Black Top Black Leather Interior Upgrade Pkg. 5 Speed Side Airbags 18" "Fanblade Wheels" Shaker 500 Audio System CORSA Performance exhaust Brenspeed 87 octane tune MGW Shifter
Hang in there Goldenpony. I bet the dealer gets the plug out .
I am wondering if the factory put nickel anti seize on or was this a after thought? I actually changed mine and did not being ignorant of the TSB. I am considering changing them again before they get loaded up. Only been 2k miles .
Thanks guys. I don't think the factory put anything on the plugs at assembly, didn't appear to be anything on the one plug I got out. I think the nickel anti-sieze is a response to this problem. Funny thing was, there wasn't even much carbon on the one plug I successfully got out.
I was chatting with the service advisor at the dealer. He expects, sometime down the road, a class action law suit over this. I hope the engineer that designed this head is now working at Subway.
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2006 Premium GT Convertible Screaming Yellow, Black Top Black Leather Interior Upgrade Pkg. 5 Speed Side Airbags 18" "Fanblade Wheels" Shaker 500 Audio System CORSA Performance exhaust Brenspeed 87 octane tune MGW Shifter
Printable Version
Scary Plug Change - 
