between you and me, that "rattling" was the vavles getting into the #2 and 7 pistons, hit it with a hammer it''ll be alright lol. damn cam phasers, alls well that ends well though
My understanding from the guy we ordered them from is the replacements basically act like a locker on a rear end, I didn''t really have the opportunity to ask many questions unfortunately :/
Posts: 408
Joined: 4/22/2007 From: Maine Status: offline
+1^^^^^^. Also your saying that one of the reasons that it took so long is because they had to change the cam phasers? Was this because they didn''t know they had to do that? Also is it just the 07 S197s that have to change the phasers? Im just wondering because I''m about the do a cam swap and I really dont want to mess it up.
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06 FRPP Shorty headers+x-pipe, 44 series flows. Vortech Non IC S/Cer, Eibach pro-kit, Hurst shifter, 20''''s and such, Soon:3.73, Blower cams. .
Well, it adds up, because you know you have to do a cam upgrade, the stroker kit itself full balanced from Eagle sells for around 2,700, only machining you have to do is clean up your bores even though to take full advantage your going to want some head work of course. I honestly couldn''t tell you how much we have tied up in it, but I think if your going to do it right, this is the way to go. You really should do a cam upgrade before you blow a motor anyways so this is just keeping you from shooting a piston through your block, and the #''s don''t lie. And also, Eagle''s offering something new called Eagle Armor, check it out its a polish I have it on my crank and rods, where some of the hidden horsepower is coming from, but now if i''m not mistaken they are offering it for pistons too. I really honestly think though that if your going to build it, build it right the first time and be done with it. Got anymore questions lemme know man
My understanding of it is half the problem was the added noise from aftermarket pistons, but I also know they said it''s a good idea to change them with any cam upgrade. I''m going to warn you though, if it weren''t for our connections we wouldn''t of found someone that would sell us these cam phasers they are HARD TO GET, at least 8 months ago anyways
Hey Eagle Stroker im new to all this so excuse all the questions but im trying to learn. So you basically added 100 rwhp and 100rtq by upgrading the cams, which cost $2700 for the kit? How much do you think it costs for a shop to put this on for you? I would like some rough estimates because i am thinking about doing something to my engine to give me a lot of power. I was thinking about doing a turbo or s/c, but you bring up a good point about doing it right with cams first. I decided to stop doing little upgrades here and there and save for some real power.
New numbers guys, rotating assembly balanced is selling for 2,200 at http://www.bbandtracing.com/ You have to talk to a shop I couldn''t tell you but labor is never cheap. Give em a call they did my car, they''ll be able to help you out. And i''m not just talking about cams the 2,200 is your short block aka your crankshaft connecting rods pistons and all your bearings, this is called a stroker kit as it lengthens the stock stroke (rotating of the rod inside the motor around the crankshaft thus moving your piston). The H-beam set with a 4340 crank is the way to go, and if your doing this get their new polish on your kit, ask for Eagle Armor. Picked up better numbers with it, its a polish on the parts that relieves stress in the metal and also reduces friction. Pretty simple stuff. And like I said it''s not just cams, I started with a bone stock car, it dyno''d at 264 rwhp. I have all your basic bolt ons, throttle body intake headers x pipe with cats mid pipes and mufflers, and ported and polished the heads with a 3 angle valve job and now i''m at 415 rwhp after some tuning, and the cams aren''t fully advanced (running at their full potential) because the way it is now I can still add a power adder such as a s/c or tt set up with out having to go in and retard the cams. But if your serious about numbers, this is the only way to go in my eyes when it comes to a 4.6. This kit without the polish is in the Steeda Q635 and it''s putting 635 @ the rear wheel. It''s impressive by any standards