Here Is a List of the Best mod's for under, and their Prices

Intake Spacer $100 (roy M1R)
Catback $300
X-pipe $300
CAI $200
MGW $169
Aluminum DS $200
Accufab TB $350
L/T's * $400
Gears *


thats a list of all the mod's i could find to be fairly inexpensive and show some results on a dyno/ street, and that can be installed with average joe tools and in average joe time. with the singular exception being the long tube headers, from what i understand they're a bitch.

*= prices vary depending on maker.

Excuse my ignorance, but what effect does the intake spacer have on performance?

I've been trying to figure that out too. My guess (and it really is a guess) is that it reduces resriction in the intake manifold in some way. Porting makes sense because it is the process of removing any burrs or castings that may impede airflow, but the spacer doesn't really do that. Maybe it allows more air to be in the intake at a given time?

this is going to be a very very rough explaination, but here it goes.
the intake on the mach is kinda crunched real close to the engine, and when the air goes in, it's really tight, and "restricted". So the intake spacer add's a gap so more air/ more cool air can flow in easier and thus becoming less of a restriction on the engine, and forcing the better air in allows for more hp/ tq to be achieved.... and it gives you better power thoughout the power band, so even though your peak gains aren't much, 4-7hp and 15-20 ftlb, this is an increase in the WHOLE rpm range.

wow i really butchered this with my limited understanding, but thats the kinda sorta way it works and what it does.

Makes sense to me.

The biggest difference with the space is torque. It only makes about 5hp, but the torque gains are much higher.

also, with a spacer there is a larger volume of air for the induction system to pull from, so when the injector pulse is mixed with the air coursing down the intake ports, there is also a slightly greater velocity to the charge. That's another part of the help ;)

Can anyone recommend a place to buy one from? Also, do they come in different sizes, and if so, is there an optimal size?

Thanks

yes, there are any size you want, Roy on here just made a 3" one. he has advised me that a 3/8" spacer is optimal for the machs, and you want the largest one possible for the cobra.

PM RoyC. Says he's a newb - he ain't. He CNC's them himself. 3/8" is best unless you want to muck with your EGR. (like, eliminate it.)

What about the Aluminum Driveshaft? how easy/difficult is that one and does anyone know where to find a write up? Can it be done in one day? The mach I am buying this is one mod I'd love to do.

it shouldnt take more than an hour with minimal auto skills. its a direct bolt on.

whats all the intinals stand for?

CAI = Cold Air Intake
MGW = The name of a company that makes a short throw shifter
DS = Driveshaft
TB = Throttle Body
L/T = Long tube headers

you guys think cold air is better than ram air? I thought ram air was cheaper with almost equal performance. Also a friend was telling me that taking the air intake silencer off might add a couple horse but makes the car sound deeper but the best part is its free. Are there any downsides to doing this?

there isnt reall a downside to it. the RAI is a good thing too, it keeps the scoop functional, i was just listing off stuff from the top of my head.

Ok because this ford guy was talking like removing that part can actually decrease hp when the engine gets hot cause it will suck in hot air instead of cold air but that wasnt making much sense. Will RAI, intake spacer and maybe o/r x pipe void my warranty?

ORIGINAL: groundpounder

PM RoyC. Says he's a newb - he ain't. He CNC's them himself. 3/8" is best unless you want to muck with your EGR. (like, eliminate it.)


Sorry, I've been to busy to get on my computer much latley. I can be PMed here or E-mailed at
wireguy2243@aol.com. Thanks for the plug Groundpounder.

Do you think a Mach that's pushing boost with a CAI already would benefit from an intake spacer? Might another cheap mod I can make if I can afford to up the boost any after I get forged internals..

ORIGINAL: RoyC



ORIGINAL: groundpounder

PM RoyC. Says he's a newb - he ain't. He CNC's them himself. 3/8" is best unless you want to muck with your EGR. (like, eliminate it.)


Sorry, I've been to busy to get on my computer much latley. I can be PMed here or E-mailed at
wireguy2243@aol.com. Thanks for the plug Groundpounder.



+10 for Roy

I'm stickying this because there's some darn good info flying around in here (good job, rebel!)

As long as the discussion stays on task (i.e. - tech related), it will stay up here and we'll start to build the tech side of our section.

sweet! we're gonna be like everyone else!

yes, a mach pushing boost would benefit even more than the non-boosted mach due to the volume of air being smashed into the engine.

another fairly cheap mod for the machs would be to port and polish the intake....im trying to run down NAZman to get prices.

ok here is nazman's prices for his services

The rates are as follows:

Intakes fully ported/cut plenum, TIG welded and Painted: $525.00 Shipped
Same as above but Short Runner: $875.00 Shipped
Heads: $550.00 each shipped (this is a full-on port ~308/226CFMs I/E at .500 lift! Gains of over 30% from .100 lift! Flowed by Modular Performance.

Turn around for intakes is ~10 days, for head work ~3 weeks.

Naz

The aluminum driveshaft is something I'm looking at doing. I do know that the spacer is mainly a torque mod. She does feel a bit stronger throughout... not necessarily faster, but just strong... a bit more umph.

Spacer = a great mod for the money

having more torque is more fun anyways [8D]



Are gears on this list? Though the install for gears can be reletively expenisve, so can LTs and such. I would love to get some 4.30 gears :)

gears added, i dont know the average price, so i left it blank.

ORIGINAL: USMCrebel

gears added, i dont know the average price, so i left it blank.


It looks like they're roundy around $160-$200 for just the gears. Install is a different story thought.

ORIGINAL: USMCrebel

sweet! we're gonna be like everyone else!

yes, a mach pushing boost would benefit even more than the non-boosted mach due to the volume of air being smashed into the engine.

another fairly cheap mod for the machs would be to port and polish the intake....im trying to run down NAZman to get prices.



From the thread DanB threw up on the registry it looks likeaported and polished doesn't make any power at all.Of course DanB also claims no hp gains with longtubes so . . .

yeah, i dont do much posting over there, jsut reading, but no gains from LT's is a litte retarted

Very retarded! That would be against all laws of physics.

$550's not a bad price for a port and polish, especially on the heads. PHP wants $1200 to port the intake. Those gains on the ported heads are impressive with that amount of lift.

i have a few questions
long vs shortie headers? why are longs better?

X vs H pipe. Is x any better over h?

how well do the machs react to pullies?

long tubes give you more of a down low grunt, and shorties are up high.
the x/h pipe is very debate which is better, IMO if you want a raspy sound and more top end go with the X pipe, and the H pipe will give you more of a mid range power with a more muscley sound.

they react to pullies like fat chicks do to salad something bad is going to happen.

ORIGINAL: USMCrebel

they react to pullies like fat chicks do to salad something bad is going to happen.



ROTFL!!:D

ORIGINAL: draxxuspainter32

i have a few questions
long vs shortie headers? why are longs better?

X vs H pipe. Is x any better over h?

how well do the machs react to pullies?




Technically an X pipe will yield more power because it flows better. Scavenging effect?

The difference will be minimal in power gains though. Maybe 2-3rwhp difference between the two. Pick the one that will give you the sound that you are looking for.

I have heard bad things about pullies on Machs. From what I have heard, the cause the oil pump shaft to break and that leads to nonfunctional engines.

Rear lower control arms.

Nice mod on the Pro Charger but you left out Cobra Throttle Body and inlet. Hugh difference over the stock. Stock produced 1089 cfm and the Cobra Throttle Body isfull 1700 cfm. You will gain another 24 HP and 18 lb/tq just from the throttle body and inlet. It will set you back $600 but it's worth every pennie.

Their are a difference between X-pipe and H-pipe by brand. BBK make's H-pipe and they suck. SLP and Bassani make's the best X-pipe.

Long tube headers are better because they are equal length by design. If you have a pair of equal length shorty headers they are equal to the long tube.

ORIGINAL: USMCrebel

ok here is nazman's prices for his services

The rates are as follows:

Intakes fully ported/cut plenum, TIG welded and Painted: $525.00 Shipped
Same as above but Short Runner: $875.00 Shipped
Heads: $550.00 each shipped (this is a full-on port ~308/226CFMs I/E at .500 lift! Gains of over 30% from .100 lift! Flowed by Modular Performance.

Turn around for intakes is ~10 days, for head work ~3 weeks.

Naz



I'm very interested in the gains for each. On M1R, I saw ported non-runner intakes show gains of 10rwhp on a near stock vehicle, but wondered about theshort-runner gains. Also, anyidea whatP&P heads would give for gains? I knowon2V's and 3V's P&P head gains are in the departmentof 30-35rwhp on near stock vehicles. Both would definitly seem worth the gain if one could installthe parts themselves, but I still wonder the gains/gain ranges of the 2 parts that I don't know.

oc192, $600 for a throttle body and inlet with 24hp/18torque gains! Nice, what other mods were on the car at the time of the dyno, gains from the inlet and throttle body? Is this a part you can just buy from anywhere or need to find used in a f/s section or junkyard?

Any reason you would choose accufab tb over bbk?

the BBK has many issues with surging, hanging RPMs, and just plain not working

Sorry for the slow response. For the 2V and 3V motors the PI Stange I II and III are making serious power. But you have to do the complete package. Patriot Performance are making the best heads for 2V. If you go with their complete package you see and feel the difference. Unfortunately; you are limited how far you can on hp because of your botton end. Please check what are the limits how much power you can make on your motor.

Me personally I don't care for anything with BBK for the fact it's not OEM. Ford is not backing their products. A lot of people have experience bad pulley and lost their motor using BBK. When you see companies like Roush and Saleen not using BBK products it's a reason.

you shouldn't be putting underdrive pulleys on the mach anyways

Why not? As long the underdrive pulley are OEM you want have a problem.

ORIGINAL: oc192

Why not? As long the underdrive pulley are OEM you want have a problem.


yeah, with these cars you will...the oil pump shaft will break due to they are **** pieces, and when that breaks your motor breaks, but if you want to take the risk of loss of motor for 3rwhp have fun

I honestly havnt read through every page of this- but having every single one of those mods listed I want to add the THE MOST important and aguably best Bang for the buck mod is a GOOD Dyno tune! This is essential to take advantage of most of these mods listed. With all those my car put down 301 rwhp / 312 rwtq- once tuned it jumped to 317rwhp/ 327rwtq- quite an improvment for ~ 300 bucks and thats on a SCT Switch chip. Heck the driveability increase was worth the money alone..drives and accelerates soooo much smoother after a good tune.

MachWon: Just with the bolt-ons I was making 433 hp. That include headers, X-pipe, cat-back, col-air kit, performance spark plug it, spark plugs, boots, and coil pack. Also, I'm using the same SCT LiveWire Tuner.

ORIGINAL: oc192

MachWon: Just with the bolt-ons I was making 433 hp. That include headers, X-pipe, cat-back, col-air kit, performance spark plug it, spark plugs, boots, and coil pack. Also, I'm using the same SCT LiveWire Tuner.



ummm...Im assuming you meant 333- if so thats still really high for a stock longblock (intake, cams, and heads DOHC). If your tuning it yourself you are datalogging it correct? I have heard of some potential parameterization problems with the livewire- how do you like it?

he is stroked, check the sig. still meant 333 im sure though...

Hey guys, new to this.....but ive been reading
Exhaust is a great sound and power adder, but with all this exhaust talk, i thought that i would throw in my 2 cents from experience!!! if your going to do any headers, exhaust, or any bolt ons from the bottom~~~I HIGHLY RECOMMEND putting a tubular k member in!!!!! It will make your job sooooo much easier esp with headers!

For the pulleys, ive been wanting to do this for min power gain, but have read all these bad things about the oil pumps and such...does anyone think that if i have already replaced the stock oil pump with a cobra pump it will/would hurt or help????? Thanks guys

The underdrive pulley idea has been beat to death but, If you check it out on M1R you will see that most of the people who had problems had Nitrous and/or had many drag passes and reved them over 7000. There are also several people who have ran them for 2+ years with no problem. If you still don't feel comfortable with them buy an Electric water pump instead. *If you have any oil pump besides a stock Mach pump your pretty safe.

Shorty headers are a waste of time and money, many brands including FRPP only add at best 5hp. DOHC motors need Long tubes.

JLT Tru-cold air intake (goes into fender and does not use the shaker) makes the most HP of all air intakes so far. IMO JLT & C&L are the best 2 brands.

I also noticed nobody mentioning a bigger mass-air. Lightning mass-air's are bigger, and pretty cheap. If you did Full exhaust and a nice Intake the small stocker becomes a restriction.

Gears are big time important, most people get .3-.5 in the 1/4 just from gears. Auto Mach's are great with 4.10's and Stick Mach's run Great with 4.30's, and most cases you wont even lose gas mileage.