The 80 to 100 is not the hourly price for the worker but the cost per hour for the worker , shop, insurance , taxes and many other cost just to open the doors of the shop.
I painted my explorer in my garage with PPG. It cost around 400 for materials. I will be painting my mustang when it is ready but I am looking into renting a booth. I have seen some maaco paint jobs and if you dont want it painted (IE chrome, tires, glass)you either take it off or mask it yourself. If I was to pay I would think that it shouldn't cost more than a couple of grand to complete. However now that I have done it I see how much work is required.
The 60 t0 100 is to keep the shop open not just the hourly labor. There are so many cost that it would blow your mind just to open the doors. I found that out real fast. As far as the polution I also live in the boonies and all was fine until some EV nut moved in and picked up the fumes and he made a call. Well you would have thought I may a nuke waste dump by their attitude. also most shops run on a commision basis up here. the worker gets 1/2 the labor cost the shop gets the other.
T- your neighbors probably hate you! Glad to see that car on a rott., that is the only way. Nothing like standing up to work on the bottom of your car. I mounted a gear reduction box on mine, lot easier than wrestling it around! If my neighbor can smell mine, he is tresspassing, sorry about yours. People should mind their own business. If he wants to save the planet, there are bigger fish.
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If it was easy, I'd be done by now! 66 V8 coupe-stock 66 FB under construction- not stock
Hi Ed we have a new shop in houston. My Paint and body man has been restoring classics for over ten years. We are working on a Mustang Grande 72 that has a lot of rust, right now. If you want to see what it looks like in a week you can come in an check. Our website is (www 5050body c o m) We just opened our shop last week and we are eager for work so I think we can work with your price. We have a paint booth with down draft and keep it temperature controlled so you don't have to worry about running or specks in your new paint. Our shop is clean and believe me that makes a difference in the paint job. I don't think I am allowed to put my phone number but it's on my website and if you are interested you can also email me.
Heading to the Rocket game so when I get back I will contact you. Thanks
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Ed Walden ----------------------------------------------------------------- 1954 Ford F-100 312 Y-Block Built for speed/9"Rearend/Aerostar Front IFS 2006 Ford F-150 1972 Ford Mustang Grande Coupe 2002 Triumph Trophy 1200
Ed Walden ----------------------------------------------------------------- 1954 Ford F-100 312 Y-Block Built for speed/9"Rearend/Aerostar Front IFS 2006 Ford F-150 1972 Ford Mustang Grande Coupe 2002 Triumph Trophy 1200
So....what I see here is my plan to hose the car off and then go at it with 300 rattle cans of touch up paint isn't gonna work? I know 300 cans of touch up should cost like $2,000 but I got a deal on these because they are over 25 years old and each one was only used a little.
alrighty... if you've got the time do it yourself!!!! You'll be able to take your time... and do it right. Paint shops (not all, and it depends on their time and what you're paying them) tend to use a lot of plastic filler and poly putty. I love polly putty by the way, the stuff is awesome. This isn't the same bondo of 10 years ago... this stuff works great and commonly used to fix small dents instead of pulling out the old spitzsnegal or hammer/dolly. But I personally like to get the metal as straight as i can then use polly putty and try to never have to use plastic filler. That's what i do on my personal cars... but when doing a job... i use the putty because it's fast, easy and works well. Just do the prep work yourself... spray the primer yourself, block it down and hand it over to a pro to finish it out. If that really is original paint you don't want to remove it, you just want to scuff it down pretty well and paint to that. New primer and paint will stick better to the original paint than to bare metal. This is the truth! NOTHING will stick to that metal as well as that original paint. You'll be able to get your panels straighter than any 5k job and use an extra coat or 2 of clear coat you can wet sand and get a smooth as glass look with zero orange peel! Just do it yourself... probably take 3 weekends. first weekend figure things out, realize what a big job it is and what you'll need. 2nd weekend you'll finish out the job 3rd weekend you'll rent a booth and gun, and spray on primer, and block sand it out... there ya go... ready to hand off to a pro to lay down the paint. Personally I do my painting myself... but i'd reccommend having someone else do it. Or do it under a pros guidance.
I'm writing this real quick from work, so i'm sure a lot doesn't make sense... so if I didn't get my point across here it is again
Paint jobs are relative to the quality. Material cost alone for a good job using quality products is close to 2 grand. Total hours on a job depend on quality of the substrate and how much body work needs to be done from there. If you have a car shot without bringing it down to metal it is just foolish. A complete job that includes R&I will average 10K, for a car that is not loaded with defects.
yeah 1965....as a business owner i know what you are saying. I dont own a paint shop but man it is hard to make a living here as small business man....give the guys in the USA a break and pay them for their expertise. I used to live with a painter trust me you can tell the difference between an artist and a shade tree painter even if you think it looks good
buy some imported paint...hire an imported painter....set up plastic paint booth in backyard(don't worry about ventilation)....room/board for a week....plane ticket home for painter...beer to drink while watching...total 200.00 see no problem................
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Sure its old but so am i........... as long as no parts are falling off either..... it all good
Just went to a classic body shop down the road - told me about $3500 for a custom paint job - not including any body work - also said that obviously they would have to see the car to firm up their pricing ... and also that they would not guarantee the paint job on someone else primer ... I was planning on media blasting and priming before bringing it to them but I may have to change my plans
I JUST HAD MY 66 COUPE PAINTED ONE MONTH AGO. I GOT BIDS FROM 7K TO 10K. AFTER LOOKING AND DEALING I GOT IT DONE FOR 5K. AFTER SEEING THE AMOUNT OF WORK I SEE WHY. MY CAR WAS STRAIGHT WITH VERY MINOR RUST. THERE WERE THREE GUYS ON THE BODY FOR ALMOST A WEEK. BEFORE I TOOK IT IN I HAD IT DISASSEMBLED AND MEDIA BLASTED. THEY WERE STARTING WITH BARE METAL. MY PAINT GUY USED A TWO STAGE METALLIC PEARL. HOLLEY FRIGGIN CRAP IT LOOKS WAY BETTER THAN I EVER THOUGHT IT COULD. WAIT TIL YOU CAN PAY TO DO IT RIGHT.
hey, I live in san leandro california and i just got my 1969 mach 1 painted... they took it all apart and painted it all.. did bodywork... didnt have much bodywork but it did have some... i got the whole car painted... i mean they didnt do any shorts cuts and took it all apart... side scoops, windows, hood, truck, cromes.... everything you can think of... i got it all done for 5500 hunderd....
Not sure if it was mentioned but you can get the duplicolor paint shop system for pretty cheap. Comes pre mixxed with primer and clear. Then try to look around and maby find someone to paint it such as a body guy for side work. OR do it yourself, that is what I am going to do.