Why not buy that catch can and replace the tubing? Is there anything wrong with that can?
Well here is my reasoning. 1. it doesn't have anything inside to filter the air, so some oil is going to get past it. 2. it looks to have a lot more places for a vacuum leak to form. the can I had before had a rubber oring on the top and bottom and the thing leaked at the screw holes that held the top on. I like the stefs can because it only has the seal on the top which is a flat piece of rubber and with AN fittings you shouldn't have to worry about them leaking. All the other connections are welded in.
I see. Well you get what you pat for right?
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2007 4.6 Alloy - Premium, IUP
Functionals - JLT II/BAMA, CHE LCA's, CHE k-brace, Eibach Pro Kit Visuals - Sequential Tail lights, Chrome inner door handles
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Update: The Stefs can I got did not have male -10 fittings. It has female fittings. After contacting Summit they stated that the Stefs catalog does not show male fittings on the 5122 so I ordered (2) -10 AN to -10 an male connectors. I got those and they are too big and thus do not fit. I am now ordering -8 an to -10 an male-to-male fittings that will connect the Stefs 5122 can to my -10 an fittings and hose. Am I the only one who has this problem?
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Man! it just took me over an hour to get to the end of this post. Good info guys, if my bonus holds true it should top off my Whipple piggy bank so I can finally make the purchase by the end of the Month. Is the catch can just a hollow piece? I was thinking of making one out of stainless tubing and welding in 1/2 couplings for the in-out-drain connections.
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You know, the interesting thing is, when I took off the intake tube, i found a hell of alot of oil in the front of the intake tube and none behind the throttle body plates.
This lead me to believe the oil was coming from the passengers side 3/8" hose. Unless I'm misunderstanding the air flow I would think the passenger side should draw air into the valve cover. I was thinking if rigging up a second seperator on the passenger side, maybe temporarily hook up a cheap air/oil separator from air tool dept at Home Depot and check contamination.
Anyone else get oil in their intake tube?
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I just spent several hours reading this entire post and then going on to other forums and reading about the GReddy oil catch can and other separators
Hey Bob, your instll looks awesome. You've done quite a bit of work to the car since we last spoke. It all looks and sounds great. Have you raced the car yet with the mods? what kind of numbers are you getting? Hopefully the weather will warm up soon and I'll see you around at one of th shows.
I was curious about your Greddy set up. The set up you have is the old style greddy can. There are still a few available that can be purchased but the new style appears to be slightly smaller and is competely sealed. From what I've read on other forums, these Greddy units appear to be open inside. There are no baffles in them at all. Some of the guys say the oil level indicator does not work that well. It gets discolored within 10K miles of use and you can't realy tell whether or not there is any oil in it. Some guys say that afer 10K miles of operation, they go to empty their cans and there is nothing in them (leads me to believe they did not do something right), while others say they emtpy the can every oil change. The older style cans can be mounted either vertically or horizontally and apparently you can use the unsued inspection hole mounting adaptor as drain opening.
The new Greddy catch cans are sealed and apparantly the only way to empty it was to remove it form the car and drain it through one of the fittings. Another guy suggested attaching a small hose to a turkey baster and using that through one of the fitting opening to syphon the oil out of the catch can. Another poster recommended drilling a small hole in the bottom of the catch can and tapping it. He then used a small bolt as a drain plug.
One of the main complaints about this unit was the fact that it is completely open inside and there are no bafles to trapand separate the oil as it flows through the catch can. One poster in another forum recommended stuffing the can with stainless steel kitchen scourers; while another recommended small metal ball bearings or a pull chain from a ceiling fan. He claimed that the kitched scourers would eventually get contaminated and degrade while the metal bearings would not. Here is a picture of the inside of the old Greddy catch can (remeber, the new ones are sealed)
During this research, I even found a couple of articles on how to make your own:
I just ordered the Moroso unit form Summit, I looked at my set-up and I have a plastic pcv valve in the line that goes to the intake manifold. I thought the pcv valve was in the valve cover. Do I leave this in place when I install the Moroso unit ? I looked at the pictures on here of the different set-ups but did not see any pcv valve in line like mine.
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i don't see how it could hurt, leaving it in place.
as long as you're filtering the air, before it returns for combustion, you should be fine
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ORIGINAL: cfr865
I just ordered the Moroso unit form Summit, I looked at my set-up and I have a plastic pcv valve in the line that goes to the intake manifold. I thought the pcv valve was in the valve cover. Do I leave this in place when I install the Moroso unit ? I looked at the pictures on here of the different set-ups but did not see any pcv valve in line like mine.
Update: The Stefs can I got did not have male -10 fittings. It has female fittings. After contacting Summit they stated that the Stefs catalog does not show male fittings on the 5122 so I ordered (2) -10 AN to -10 an male connectors. I got those and they are too big and thus do not fit. I am now ordering -8 an to -10 an male-to-male fittings that will connect the Stefs 5122 can to my -10 an fittings and hose. Am I the only one who has this problem?
I too am having the same problem. I called Stef's today and spoke with Jake who explained everything I wanted to know about the separator and gave me a tip to see if my "puff of blue smoke at start up" would be resolved by this mod (simple enough, remove the hose from the PCV valve and look for oil, no oil, the separator will not provide benefit).
I recommend calling Stef's directly to order the air/oil separator, this way each party knows what is being ordered. As a result of my call, I am getting my air/oil separator with two -10 male fittings. Stef's can make the part to fit your preferences for in/out connectors: -10/-10; -8 female/-12 male; etc., get the part the way you want.
I cannot emphasize this more--CALL STEF'S DIRECTLY!!!! (plus the price is less).
Jake also stressed the importance of periodically draining the can. Once the can is full, large amounts of oil will be sucked into the engine. In addition to lots of exhaust smoke, it's not good for the internal components of the engine.
Stef's is not a large fabrication operation. It is three guys who makes specialty parts for racing. Be prepared to spend a few minutes on hold.
To respond to Sevenleaf's post: Yes, this is happening to people who order from places other than Stef's.
I went with the Stef's can. I ordered it straight from them and was told that it would ship in a week (it took 3 weeks). When I called to get an update, they said that it was delayed because they were waiting on fittings. Anyway, got the can and it looks good. Welds are top notch. I didn't get the chance to install it before I had to head back to work, but at least I have a project for my next R&R. Mounting it on the air filter surround doesn't seem to give very much room to drain the can. I am thinking about what Hammeron said, and move the battery to the trunk. I could then move the fuse box to the firewall, intercooler tank to the front right, and finally, the Stef's can would mount where the intercooler tank was.
< Message edited by Gonzo71 -- 3/13/2008 3:04:37 AM >
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I went with the Stef's can. I ordered it straight from them and was told that it would ship in a week (it took 3 weeks). When I called to get an update, they said that it was delayed because they were waiting on fittings. Anyway, got the can and it looks good. Welds are top notch. I didn't get the chance to install it before I had to head back to work, but at least I have a project for my next R&R. Mounting it on the air filter surround doesn't seem to give very much room to drain the can. I am thinking about what Hammeron said, and move the battery to the trunk. I could then move the fuse box to the firewall, intercooler tank to the front right, and finally, the Stef's can would mount where the intercooler tank was.
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That sounds like a lot of work! In order to drain mine I plan to unbolt the one screw that holds it to the filter surround and disconnect the short hose running to the vavle cover. that will give me plenty of slack to lift and tilt the can to drain it. I need to drain mine today.
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I am thinking about what Hammeron said, and move the battery to the trunk. I could then move the fuse box to the firewall, intercooler tank to the front right, and finally, the Stef's can would mount where the intercooler tank was.
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RE: Oil Separator - Attn: MODADDICT - 
yeah that was one of my plans....the battery 
