Hey everyone,

I’m pretty sure this has been talked about here in the past but I wanted to bring it up again… I just finished setting up a semi-home made oil separator. I read about it mostly here www.all+ford+mus+tangs.com/forums/2005-mustang-gt-tech/66779-oil-separator-install.html (http://www.all+ford+mus+tangs.com/forums/2005-mustang-gt-tech/66779-oil-separator-install.html%C2%A0) (<- remove the +’s in the domain name)

The setup is simple. I used a husky brand air compressor oil separator along with some brass fittings from home depot at a cost of about $15 I think, went down to my local NAPA store and got some 3/4 vacuum hose and small amount of heater hose (1/2 I think) and some fasteners for another $17.

Once I had everything back at the house I removed the factory hose and pretty much plugged the new on up. It’s pretty straight forward as you can see from the pics. The only tricky part is getting the smaller section of heater hose into the other hose. I’ll let you all figure out the best way to do that. You need this because the brass fittings on the oil separator itself are too small to make a seal on the vacuum hose. Also, my oil separator has a valve at the bottom so you can empty it without unscrewing the entire bottle, but my valve wouldn’t seal. So when I started the car for the first time I hear a hissing, and when I put my finger on the bottom of the valve it tried to suck it through. I had to get a little creative to get it to seal.

I’ve driven about 50 miles and as you may be able to tell from the pictures it is already collecting oil. I think I’m going to be surprised at how much oil it collects.
At a price of about $35 this is a no brainer.

Here are the pics
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2836Large.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2835Large.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2834Large.jpg
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2836Large.jpg)http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2833Large.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2831Large.jpg
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2833Large.jpg)http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2830Large.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2829Large.jpg
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2830Large.jpg)http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2828Large.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2827Large.jpg
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2828Large.jpg) http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/peteway/oil_seperator/IMG_2826Large.jpg

enjoy…

looking good peteway, nice job

ORIGINAL: hammeron

looking good peteway, nice job


Thanks. Anyone can do this in about 30 minutes or so, and it seems to me to be a great way to help the longevity of your engine.

Also, thanks to howarmat for embedding the pics for me...

Seems like a good idea, just curious after years and years of cars using positive crankcase ventilation, why none of the engine designers have seen the need for an oil separator? On the install rather than slipping the larger hose over the smaller hose, which may have a negative affect on the ventilation, just get a bigger ****** fitting for the seperator, or some AN fittings with braided lines.

ORIGINAL: smythge
.... rather than slipping the larger hose over the smaller hose, which may have a negative affect on the ventilation, just ....


just curious, but how would it have a negative affect on ventilation as long as it has a good seal? I'm not saying your wrong or anything, i just don't understand why that would be.

ORIGINAL: peteway

ORIGINAL: smythge
.... rather than slipping the larger hose over the smaller hose, which may have a negative affect on the ventilation, just ....


just curious, but how would it have a negative affect on ventilation as long as it has a good seal? I'm not saying your wrong or anything, i just don't understand why that would be.



If you have reduced the size of the PCV tube from 1/2 to 3/8 or small you may not have adequate ventilation. Read below stolen directly from Wikipedia:

as an engine runs, gases from the cylinders leak past the piston's sealing rings into the crankcase (containing the crankshaft and other parts). This leaked gas is sometimes referred to as "blow by" because the pressure within the cylinders "blows" them "by" the piston rings. These gases include compounds harmful to an engine, particularly hydrocarbons (unburned fuel), as well as carbon dioxide and water vapor. If allowed to remain in the crankcase, or become too concentrated, the harmful compounds will condense out of the air within the crankcase and form corrosive acids and sludge on the engine's interior surfaces. This can harm the engine as it tends to clog small inner passages, causing overheating, poor lubrication, and high emissions levels. To keep the crankcase air as clean as possible, some sort of ventilation system must be present.

One other thing I found is that filter is not designed for the heat in the engine compartment read below for the problems this may cause:

1. The typical clear bowl – equipped filter has maximum operating temperature of
120 or 125° F. a typical engine bay can reach temperatures beyond 140° F, quite
easily, potentially causing the seal between the bowl and the inlet/outlet
component to leak.
2. Many of these filters are designed for air flow rates of greater than 20 cubic feet
per minute (CFM). Flow rates significantly below this level may allow
particulates and liquids to pass through to the engine intake – something we are
trying to avoid. I measured flow from a PCV valve at approx. 36 LPM = 1.8
CFM.

ugly and unnecessary. If it was needed it would be there, the auto manufacturers spend millions to get this stuff to work right. Thats also why many aftermarket mods dont work either because if they did, the companies probably would of had it by now.

ORIGINAL: stiggy

ugly and unnecessary. If it was needed it would be there, the auto manufacturers spend millions to get this stuff to work right. Thats also why many aftermarket mods dont work either because if they did, the companies probably would of had it by now.


Interesting....i have the same size seperator and i have to change it often...i would rather that oil not get in the intake. Its more of a problem for a s/c application though. And what mods are you referring to that dont work?:eek:

ORIGINAL: stiggy

ugly and unnecessary. If it was needed it would be there, the auto manufacturers spend millions to get this stuff to work right. Thats also why many aftermarket mods dont work either because if they did, the companies probably would of had it by now.


ugly... maybe. unnecessary.. I don't think so.
If you go by your logic then we should never need to upgrade anything because 'the auto manufacturers' got their stuff to work right... just like the upper and lower control arms. Oh wait, if you replace the stock weak ones with aftermarket then your wheel hop goes away. They must think we need wheel hop.

Not trying to be a dick, but auto manufacturers don't always get everything right. An oil seperator at this location will collect oil. That oil you catch is not going to be sent back through the engine the wrong way so I'm keeping it. I am going to look into possible ventilation issues as pointed out by smythge.

Also, what aftermarket mods are you referring to about not working properly?

I hate the extra power my aftermarket mods make

Have any of you guys that have made these with the home improvement store filter brands (Husky, whatever) had any trouble with them handling the high engine bay temperatures?

Sleeper2

ORIGINAL: sleeper2

Have any of you guys that have made these with the home improvement store filter brands (Husky, whatever) had any trouble with them handling the high engine bay temperatures?

Sleeper2



I'm not sure you would be aware if it were leaking, unless the check engine light came on from the vacuum leak created, if you're leaking the motor is sucking in extraair, and in turn isgoing tobe running lean, which obviously is not good. When the designersset up the PCV system they test the pressure to make sure it actually ventilates and that it is sealed properly and look for a certain PSI, which would all be changed by the length of the line and size of the line. Lastly for the price of all your parts both Summit and Jegs sell a complete kit designed for the intended purpose for around$50.00. Again I am not knocking the idea it makes sense. I personally don't see a need right now, unless I go forced induction, or have a blowby problem.

Doanycompaniessell the whole kit?

Stefs and Steeda...i got the steeda but the stefs is the way to go if you got the dough

I went with the Stefs. Still have the Steeda 555-3710 sitting here in a box.

I too do not want any oil getting into the intake and onto the intake valves.


local://upfiles/29830/08CAE936F3E9401BABBF67C6E39DB344.jpg

local://upfiles/29830/ADBAC98B35DB435BAF99326054856A40.jpg

local://upfiles/29830/541F91FB6F1546A19D934F903E6622FA.jpg

local://upfiles/29830/F66901CEB37D4AFFB1A2B00107EA7989.jpg

ORIGINAL: GT John

I went with the Stefs. Still have the Steeda 555-3710 sitting here in a box.

I too do not want any oil getting into the intake and onto the intake valves.


local://upfiles/29830/08CAE936F3E9401BABBF67C6E39DB344.jpg




Now that is a nice setup, AN fittings, aluminum collector. One questionis that one hose between each piece or one hose shoved inside the other? if that's the case, why not just get alarger barbedAN fitting that is the correct sizethat would be much cleaner.