As you all know my 2000 Mustang GT started making a ticking noise, only when it was cold, and only on decel.. Then it slowly got worse and would tick all the time, the noise got more violent and the car was parked. I will include videos later in the thread to show the progression.The dealer was no help and didn't know what was wrong.. The internet told me itwas bearings and the engine was shot.. After further research I found out that these cars are PRONE to timing chain tensioner failure.. I pulled the valve cover back a little and saw that the chain was really loose.. My car had 78k miles at the first sign of ticking... By no means a high mileage car.

First off this is how I repaired the car. These are my costs.. I cannot be held responsible if you damage your car, do all this at your own risk.... Sue someone else, I don't even have the money to take it to the dealer to fix it.... Or I would have..

Step 1- Remove your air cleaner assembly, coolant res.., power steering pump res., remove the PS pump (4 bolts) one is a huge bi-tch so use a open ended #10 wrench then set it to the side

Step 2- Remove the e-fan, and radiator hose that is in the way

Step 3- Remove the S-belt, the idler pulleyand the waterpump pulley.

Step 4- Remove the harmonic Balancer (use the 3 screw puller and make sure the nut and washer are both out of the center....)

Step 5- Next I removed all 19 bolts that hold the front cover on.... Yes there are 19.

Step 6- LOOSEN all the oil pan bolts about 1/16th of an inch in order to gain clearance.. This is hard to do and you need an array of extensions to get the two that are over the steering rack.

Step 7- Loosen the first few bolts holding the valve covers on.. Just to gain clearance.

Step 8- Pull that sucker off gently..

At this point you will see exactly what failed and you will wonder how the hell this happened.....

Step 8- unbolt the tensioners and slide the guides off the mounting pins

Step 9- unbolt the upper guides and drink a coke... grab some lunch.. You are about 3 hours in at this point.

That is about all there is to it.. Do the reverse to re-install.. I am having to flush the oilpan, and am using a magnet to get all the metal shavings and what not from then oilpan, front cover and also the plastic chunks that are all over the place....... Hope this helps..

ON A DIFFICULTY SCALE FROM 1-10 (10 is a full rebuild) I would place this at a 6... You must have a general knowlage of your car and have a manual to do it.. Not for the novice but if you can replace a starter or fuel pump this should be obtainable for you.

Guides and Tensioners from autozone- $115
Gaskets- $60
Oil/filter- $30
TOTAL SERVICE COST- $205..
TOTAL TIME INVESTED- 6 HOURS

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Your the man, I have the same problem and will probably do it over thanksgiving. Thanks a lot.

lol @ the pink scooter :D

great write- up man! so did the tensioner break?

Tensioner failed, it ended up letting the chain slap up against the guides which ended in the total and upmost murder of the whole assembly.. check out the picture of the tensioner on that side, it is ground down about 1/8th of an inch...

I forgot to mention in the writeup that there are a few sensors that need to be unplugged, and the 4 front bolts on the oil pan need to be removed completely..

**** im tempted to try this, my mechanic said the sound it coming from the top and the rear of the drivers side head....but it has the same sound as your videos...

Here are the videos for reference to the sound.

When the noise first started in january 2007-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0tBoYw_Pow (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0tBoYw_Pow)

The noise recently (about 5000 miles later)-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sthHW4QDD08 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sthHW4QDD08)

Mine sounds like your first video, and I have 150,xxx miles on mine

I would get it taken care of quick.. There was only 5000miles between the two vids.. I consider myself very lucky that the car didn't jump time... I am still trying to figure out the best way to deal with the metal shavings from the guides.... luckily most of the shavings are large... But chances are this took some signifigant mileage off the life of my engine in the long run.. I am sure that the metal shavings will have scored the cylinder walls some.. I will probably run thicker oil and change my oil at about 2k miles from here forward to keep the lubrication as fresh as possible....

As far as the ticking in the rear/upper sectionof the engine.. I am not sure what that might be.. Lash adjusters maybe?

Mine is in the front passenger head, just like yours. And you say take the intake off in your how to? Thats not right is it

Just the intake inlet not the manifold.. Like your intake tube, the filter assembly.. LOL.

bump for how to

yeah thats what i had to do!!!! Same damn things.. all passenger side.. i think ford should have some sort of recal.. this was bull****.... but made me feel better it wasnt berrings.. now i get to haul ass again!!!!!:D

Nice write up man. Have fun trying to put the timing cover back on with the valve covers all ready sitting there?

Just some advice anytime you have a problem like that it is more than likely a oil pressure problem that lead to the failure of the tenisioner (the opperate off of oil pressure) you should change out the oil pump while your in there.

thanks for the heads up! im about to do this...

Ouch! That's exactly what my guides looked like when I did mine. Sept I called Ford and they wanted 75 bucks for each side for the guides and they didn't have the tentioners in stock. So I put the old ones back on... Bad idea. Car is at the shop and I am waiting on a phone call to let me know what's up with it.

Well word to the wise... The guides you order from autozone will not work, well the left side will but the right side does not match up. The tensioners from Autozone are $40 each and they appear to be the same as OEM (stamped the same ect).. Autozone does offer the tensioner arms but I cannot attest to the quality or fitment.

I am returning the the guides to autozone and buying OEM at the dealer... I will also buy the tensioner arms at the dealer..

The parts list at about $20 each at the dealer

So my new total must be adjusted by about $40. So...

Thanks for the write-up!

You really should have replaced the chains while you had it apart though. They stretch over time.

I've got 135K on mine and it's only making a very slight tick noise. Guess I'm lucky! I'm planning to replace the gears, chains, guides and tensioners (and pump I guess) all at the same time.

Do you really need to pull the intake manifold??? Dang.

Damn man. My car is just turning 80,000 on a 2000 model. If my engine started doing that, i would be really really really pissed.

OK YOU DO NOT HAVE TO PULL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD- I meant the air cleaner assembly.. If a MOD can change that in the writeup that would be great...

The chains were not damaged and it appears that they are good for approximately well over 150k miles.. It wouldn't matter if they stretch as the tensioners and arms would compensate..

As far as my car specifically goes.. The guides I ordered for the 2000GT do not fit at all.. The guides that will fit my car are from a 2002-2004. I need to figure out how to reference #'s to see if my engine has been swapped out... Has anyone with a 1999-2001GT have pictures of thier engine with the front covers off?? I am going to attach the schematics later.... This is crazy that OEM parts wouldn't bolt up.. I just wonder what the deal is with my car.. It is worlds faster then all the other same gen GT's I have driven.... WTF...

ORIGINAL: 6mustang6

Damn man. My car is just turning 80,000 on a 2000 model. If my engine started doing that, i would be really really really pissed.


Trust me mine had 78k when the problem started.. I WAS LIVID... The kicker is LOTS AND LOTS of people seem to have the same problem.. ALL on the passenger side.... Can you say faulty parts...... Some people had it happen during the break-in period... I really wish Ford would stand behind thier products, are they turning into GM or what??

i know man. That really sucks. I just pray i have a good set. :) but knowing my luck ill be having to re-read your write-up one day.:D

Ok.. Here is the deal, FORDmerged the part numbers for the timing chain guideson the 99-04 Mustang GT's with the 4.6L SOHC. Unfortunately they are using the replacements from the 99-EARLY 2000 GT guides as the part number. That part number will NOT bolt up to the LATE 2000-2004 GT's.. This poses a problem to people like me who have engines/cars that were built late in the production run. Ford was UNABLE to get me the guides I needed as they have mistakenly assumed all the 4.6L used the same guides and mounting points, which they don't. They made a note of my complaint and hopefully they will re-visit the part #'s and application.

I found the parts that fit the late 2000-2004 models at AUTOZONE.

According to the Autozone Part #

716436
716437 These are the VDP part #'s.

Hope this helps anyone else doing this service. It has been apain in the ass that the parts I ordered didn't fit the car.....

I had pics of my front cover when it was off but I can't find them now. A good way to tell is just count the number of bolts on your valve covers. That will tell you if you have a windsor or romeo. I think the romeos have the same number for both sides and I think it's 11 and the windsors have a different number of bolts per side. Also the water pump pullies are different. The windsors are pushed out in the center where the romeos are in.

The pink scooter and the Haynes manual scare me the most. :D I assume the scooter is your daughter's or sister's, but the book? [:-]:D

ORIGINAL: 2000GTFOOL

Ok.. Here is the deal, FORDmerged the part numbers for the timing chain guideson the 99-04 Mustang GT's with the 4.6L SOHC. Unfortunately they are using the replacements from the 99-EARLY 2000 GT guides as the part number. That part number will NOT bolt up to the LATE 2000-2004 GT's.. This poses a problem to people like me who have engines/cars that were built late in the production run. Ford was UNABLE to get me the guides I needed as they have mistakenly assumed all the 4.6L used the same guides and mounting points, which they don't. They made a note of my complaint and hopefully they will re-visit the part #'s and application.

I found the parts that fit the late 2000-2004 models at AUTOZONE.

According to the Autozone Part #

716436
716437 These are the VDP part #'s.

Hope this helps anyone else doing this service. It has been apain in the ass that the parts I ordered didn't fit the car.....


Did you actually try to bolt them up? Im using all of the timing equipment from my 99 on an 03 shortblock with no issues at all.

ford dealership wanted 1600 to do this lol... "15 hours of labor, and $400 for tensioners, guides, and gaskets"

oh and the OP should definately get a contributor tag for this

ORIGINAL: MrChubs1

The pink scooter and the Haynes manual scare me the most. :D I assume the scooter is your daughter's or sister's, but the book? [:-]:D


The scooter was his mode of transportation during the work and his inspiration to get it done quickly/correctly the first time! :D

Goodwrite up though. I wonder if the V6 models suffer from the same thing as a lot of them have ticking (not slapping like that though). Since the chains are vertical, I wonder if this scenario would even be possible.

Hey, did you get this up and running yet? Just an FYI here, I just noticed this... You didn't mention holding the camshafts in place while you removed the tensioners and gudes in your original post. The camshafts will rotate, causing the gears to "jump teeth" in the chains when you remove the tensioners. It happens quickly and if you're not paying attention you won't even notice it. Visually everything will look fine, but your camshaft timing will be off which could be disasterous. If the camshafts rotate you need to re-time them.

Oh, and if you have metal and plastic pieces floating around in your oil there's a good chance they're stuck in the pick up tube screen as well, which can restirict oil flow. I know when my rod bearings went, my pick up tube screen was a mess with shavings (and it had a huge chunk of my radiator cap stuck in it, don't ask, I don't know). Unfortunately you have to drop the entire oil pan to look at it...

the reason the guides did not fit is because 99-00 models have a windsor block , whereas the later models have romeo blocks.

ORIGINAL: adam_ferguson

the reason the guides did not fit is because 99-00 models have a windsor block , whereas the later models have romeo blocks.


Yeah I know that, butmy timing equipment fit just fine. I know there are small differences in the blocks, but for the most part all of the parts are interchangeable.

EDIT: 2000GTFOOL, I think the part number ford was using was for the pre 99 motors. In 01 ford changedthe romeo motors tothe windsor style allplastic guides, found in the 99-mid 01 motors. Which explains why my stuff fit...

Different blocks different part numbers?!?! Doesn't that defeat the purpose of these being MODULAR engines?!?! WTF Ford?!?!

Wait.. So do the 99-00 have the plastic guides or the metal guides with the sleeves??

Here are what my parts look like. The guy at ford told me the "romeo" blocks are the cobra blocks and the "windsor" blocks are the GT.. He claims some mustangs got the Romeo blocks with GT heads ect.. I think they have thier heads on backwards...

Whatever, I have the parts I need now...... Thank goodness....

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As far as the tensioners/locking the cams go.... My chains have almost no tensionon them at all.. The cams haven't moved at all yet.......I figured that if I was careful they wouldn't move..lol

I did the timing belt service on my Lexus LS400 and the cams were a much bigger pain in the ass... Huh..

ORIGINAL: 2000GTFOOL

As far as the tensioners/locking the cams go.... My chains have almost no tensionon them at all.. The cams haven't moved at all yet.......I figured that if I was careful they wouldn't move..lol

I did the timing belt service on my Lexus LS400 and the cams were a much bigger pain in the ass... Huh..


Thats risky man, I did the same thing and ended up tearing back into my engine because the timing was off. You've got it apart still right? If so, pull the valve covers off and set the timing properly. Its easy to do and might take an extra hour. Beats bending a valve or punching one through a piston. And my guides looked exactly like your original broken ones (just not broken).

good write up-

does it only do it when cold?

Mine knocks when cold, After the vehicle warms up it goes away!

ORIGINAL: 99gtstang

good write up-

does it only do it when cold?

Mine knocks when cold, After the vehicle warms up it goes away!


That's how mine started.. then it progressed..

[:@][:@]I think that my 01 Auto GT is starting to get this issue.. it has 98,8500 and change on it, completely stock. I wouldnt describe mine as ticking ; but more of a squeaking noise when Im driving it. It doesnt seem to do this noise when the car is still.

that doesnt sound like this issue at all.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0tBoYw_Pow

I agree. That would more likely be rear end, wheel bearing, ujoint... If it only happens when you are moving.... UNLESS it's only under load... But still I don't think that it is your chain..

Ladies and Gents, boys and Girls... I am back up on the road.. Out of fear for my engines life I removed the valve covers and timing chains and re-set the timing. I will outline the way I did it in another "HOW TO" thread.. At least that way I knew it was dead on. She purrs like a kitten and I can't believe how much I missed her..

Although I took the "cheap" route out of this I really do feel that a timing chain tensioner failure might as well be treated asan engine failure. There was so much aluminum shavings in the oilpan, ect that I know my passages are full.. I used compressed air to blow it back out and am just praying that the engine holds up. Really though a rebuild will be in my near future.

Really near future.... I was driving down the interstate and the Oil Pressure dropped to ZERO! The engine quickly made a Terrible screaching noise and shut down... It's over.. The car is dead........

I am pretty dissapointed, but now I get to figure out how to build it bigger and better. Hopefully this same time next yearI will be back on the road.. But I am going to completely redo the entire car, except for the interior. So I will pull the motor in december and get the car ready to paint.....

Thanks for all your help.

that's what that noise was, will that makes me feel better that it's not terminal, I think I will do cams and headers when I do mine next summer.

Im sorry to hear about your ride, at least you got some experience repairing it and such. I had to pay to get my Ignition coil eplaced along with removing the entire plenum assembly just to get a tune up and service my car. I wish I knew how to fix them instead.

Is this your DD while the mustangs out of commision?
http://www.mustangforums.com/upfiles/57395/9DEDFEB23EF64A0A90A2A7B5E60E4F46.jpg

wait so the noise wasnt the timing chain? the 2nd video you have it sounds pretty bad not like mine which is a slapping sound.....did you engine get shot cuz of the timing? or you spun a bearing

No it was the timing chain making the noise. I am not sure why the engine shut down the other night.. he car started fine last night.. OP was fine... I am going to pull the engine to clean it out and see what the heck is going on... I figure there is so much metal in the oil passages that it stopped flow.. The engine heated up and siezed, when it cooled down it started back up.... My theory...

yeh my engine made that noise for a while then the main bearing went and i had some rod knock then i took it to the shop a little to late i had crand damage and needed a new connecting rod.

why you have metal shavings not from thr front is it?

Yes check out the pictures. The timing chain ATE the aluminum guides and also filed down the tensioners themselves...

damn i better check mine then cuz i dont want metal shavings in my pan making my bearings ****ed

Well, I did this over the past two days, about 6 hours total. I have a 98 gt. Parts from autozone and ford dealership $170.00 rent harmonic balancer puller $16.00 autozone. Few things I did different. I removed front four bolts on the oil pan and left the others alone. I also loosened up the front 6 bolts per valve cover to gain clearance. pulled the cover off like that. It came off fine like this. My guides were fine, just the passenger side tensioner was bad. The driver side was fine. Also you do not have to worry about resetting the timing or keeping the cam or crank from moving because as along as the chain stays on the sprokets it can not rotate any further then it would with regular driving. Thats about it, running now and better then ever. Thanks for the write up.

No problem man... Glad it worked out good... I let mine go way too long..

Jesus, that sucks! This is definately something I'll be watching for.

Is there a way to lift the engine up to pull the oil pan and replace the oil pump while still in the car?

A little trick we do with our circle track racers on the oil pump is to cut V notches in the side of the sheet metal cover to allow more oil to the screen.

I'm looking at a '95 V6 Mustang in trade for a '85 VW Scirocco that I have and the Mustang has a tick to it too....? Same deal on 3.8's?

ORIGINAL: oxfordgt

Nice write up man. Have fun trying to put the timing cover back on with the valve covers all ready sitting there?

Just some advice anytime you have a problem like that it is more than likely a oil pressure problem that lead to the failure of the tenisioner (the opperate off of oil pressure) you should change out the oil pump while your in there.


Have you ever opened up ANY engine??? The oil pump is underneath the engine and you must pull the oil pan off to change it out! The oil pan doesn't have to come off for the timing chain install! Oil pressure could be from clogged screen. Oil pumps either work or they don't. There is no compression like cyliders that effect reliability.
Marvel Mystery oil for a few hundred miles or straight up Kerosene for a couple of days will clean any sludge that is restricting oil flow!

i think this is my problem just started if u would can u call me or can i call u on this 417-396-9488 if i dont fix it i am gona put a new motor in next week it only takes 2 hours lol!!!! and 3,000 lol thanks ask for casey

Since my last post, I have done some looking at these Mustangs.

You can disconnect the steering shaft, sway bar, calipers (brake lines may or not flex enough), maybe a few other things too, support the engine up top with a cross beam on the struts and then un bolt the K (engine frame) bolts and lower down with a floor jack to get the oil pan and pump off......

2000 gt were are you at did u ever find out what was the problem?im still waiting so i could get some insight on how to fix mine

why are you t5alking about replacing the oil pump? its not necessary to replace the pump when do the timing chain...

ORIGINAL: 2000GTFOOL

The guides I ordered for the 2000GT do not fit at all.. The guides that will fit my car are from a 2002-2004. I need to figure out how to reference #'s to see if my engine has been swapped out... Has anyone with a 1999-2001GT have pictures of thier engine with the front covers off?? I am going to attach the schematics later.... This is crazy that OEM parts wouldn't bolt up.. I just wonder what the deal is with my car.. It is worlds faster then all the other same gen GT's I have driven.... WTF...


I just got done replacing the tensioners/guides in my 2000GT and had the same part number problem.Theparts store that i go to ('Parts City' outside of chicago)had one part number listed for all '99-'04 GTs. And all of theparts stores around here seem to sell 'Cloyes' brand timing components. So after researching at http://www.cloyes.com (http://www.cloyes.com/)i found cloyes lists the tensioners/guides that I need as being listed for a 2002gt. The following part#'s are what fit my 2000GT...

Right Hand Tensioner arm--
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/PartsLookup/CloyesPartDetail/tabid/344/language/en-US/aaia_id/1385670/part_num/9-5340/in_db_table/am/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Left Hand Tensioner arm--
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/PartsLookup/CloyesPartDetail/tabid/344/language/en-US/aaia_id/1385670/part_num/9-5341/in_db_table/am/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Right Chain Guide--
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/PartsLookup/CloyesPartDetail/tabid/344/language/en-US/aaia_id/1385670/part_num/9-5428/in_db_table/am/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Left Chain Guide--
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/PartsLookup/CloyesPartDetail/tabid/344/language/en-US/aaia_id/1385670/part_num/9-5429/in_db_table/am/language/en-US/Default.aspx

the TENSIONERS themselves were listed correctely at the parts store under a 2000GT, but here are the cloyes part#'s anyway..

Right Tensioner--
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/PartsLookup/CloyesPartDetail/tabid/344/language/en-US/aaia_id/1362743/part_num/9-5339/in_db_table/am/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Left Tensioner--
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/PartsLookup/CloyesPartDetail/tabid/344/language/en-US/aaia_id/1362743/part_num/9-5338/in_db_table/am/language/en-US/Default.aspx

Hopefully this helps people in the future. I ended up having my local parts store special order these part #'s for me and everything went smoothly from there.

Just to note, i have an early 2000gt with the windsor block, so im not sure if late '00 gt's and newer would have the same issues.

P.S. -- If you already have the front timing cover pulled off, you do not need to remove the oil pan to replace the oil pump. There are two small bolts that connect the sump to the pump, but if you have small enough fingers and an 8mm wrench(if i remember correcly.. maybe 10mm) you can get it out like i did. Theres really no reason to remove the pan.

Just make sure you have one of those magnet stick things because you WILL drop the bolts a few times when trying to screw them back in.

I just bought a 98 Gt about a month ago and the guy had warned me about a ticking that had been going for the last 20000 miles on it approx and so like an idiot i bought it umm i signed up for the forums just for this reason haha apparently im not alone

people tell me its a lifter one person said it was an intake valve getting stuck but it only makes the noise really between 2 and 3500 rpms and i just wanna know if finding out whats wrong with it is worth it or can i just let it go on even though id rather fix it

if it is a lifter im gonna have to get new cams too right cuz theyre gonna be all worn out egg shaped what have you

mine is doing the same stuff as your saying :eek:

man thats an amazin write up...but im not about to try it

Does anyone know if this is related to the Windsors or if it affects the Romeos as well?

I have a late production 01 and its only got 49k on it, but its starting to make a ticking sound from,best i can tell, drivers side.

I can only hear it well when the clutch is just grabbing and the motor vibratesa bit. I can hear it VERY faintly if i let the car sit in neutral and stick my head in the engine bay.

my cars is making that same ticking sound! it's just bothering me a lot! thanks for the info, great post

Is this a sound that happens throughout the rpms or something that only happens for a split second if you blip the throttle a bit?

You guys that are saying you have this problem all seem to have 2000s and UP. I have a 1998 Cobra, with only 50K on the clock TOTAL, and about 2500 on the engine after being rebuilt. It's been stroked too... before i bought it.When I bought it, it had a bad rod bearing. I fixed it, and it runs good... but it makes that sound. Anyone know if this was a problem that only affected certain years or what??

I have a 98 gt and my tensioners were bad... So I believe it covers the 4.6 era

my 98 was making a ticking noise, but it wasnt the timing chain, it was the sparkplug, and one day it finally gave, later we found out the sparkplug blew out of the header, and we ended up spending 2K on the fix, we had to buy a new computer too

i have 82,000 miles on my stang so far i have had no problems 'so far' any suggestions to prevent this from happening?

sweet me and my buddy were thinkin about fixin his!

That problem should be a FORD recall if you ask me, with so many here in this forum with that problem you have to wonder how many out in the Stang world are dealing with this! Definatly a recall issue.

I just GOOGLED "BAD TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER 2000 MUSTANG" and came up with a chitload of complaints and some YOU TUBE vids of the problem.....what gives? I am wondering if FORD is aware of the problem and just ignoring it. Anyone think this can be dealt with through FORD? I just bought my Stang 2 weeks ago, 2004 GT and am now wondering if it was a mistake. I got rid of my Dodge due to many problems....wouldn't want to go out and buy a Toyota! LOLOL

*SLAP* man my 01 GT has 128k miles on it, NO damn problems Lazorrazor

yea many people get worried really easy. i fit in that category sometimes, constantly listening to the engine. i can almost hear a slight sound behind my alternator on my 02 with 42k, if i even think something is wrong is getting fixed under warranty

Coming soon Trick Flow timing kit.

Fits 1996-2004 Romeo or Windsor(with aftermarket cams), comes with everything in the picture

Includes (2) crank sprockets (1) thick crank gear to be used with the Romeo thin crank trigger wheel, and (1) thin crank gear to be used with the Windsor hub style crank trigger wheel.

Also includes our patent pending Hex cam gears spacers, to make tightening the cam gear bolt easier, without smashing your knuckles on the shock towers on a new edge.

We also have:

New hyd, lash adjusters TFS-21400008
New OE followers TFS-51800510
Timing kit above 1996-2004 TFS-51800500
Cam Gears and spacers only TFS-51800502
New 4.6L timing chains TFS-51800201
PI Intake gaskets TFS-51800922

Trick Flow Tech


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Huh, kinda like product placement during TV shows..

My car started doing that ticking noise. When I would come to decelerations.. it would tick like a clock.. changing gears occasionally.. it sounded like the timing chain slapping or something.

One night I was driving and I was changing into 3rd gear (not beating on it at all) and the ticking got SERIOUS then BOOM SCREECH SCREECH (nails on chalkboard) BOOM... I rolled off the road.. I started the engine: BAM BAM (screech SCREECHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!) Like fireworks.. then it died. It sat in the garage for 3 months. I started the car up. It started then KA CLUNK KA CLUNK KA CLUNK KA CLUNK KA CLUNK KA CLUNK KA CLUNK KA CLUNK repeatedly. Shut it off.. then I went ahead and stared in disbelief through my windshield for 6 1/2 hours, then went to bed. 2 Months later.. I started it up with an older mechanic I know nearby. Spun rod bearing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8qb0ur4e8A

I took the car to ford. They diagnosed a spun rod bearing and replaced the motor with a new $3,000 remanufactured motor. Labor = $1,600 and a new clutch.

Not a fun problem to have.