Ladies and Gents, boys and Girls... I am back up on the road.. Out of fear for my engines life I removed the valve covers and timing chains and re-set the timing. I will outline the way I did it in another "HOW TO" thread.. At least that way I knew it was dead on. She purrs like a kitten and I can't believe how much I missed her..
Although I took the "cheap" route out of this I really do feel that a timing chain tensioner failure might as well be treated as an engine failure. There was so much aluminum shavings in the oilpan, ect that I know my passages are full.. I used compressed air to blow it back out and am just praying that the engine holds up. Really though a rebuild will be in my near future.
Really near future.... I was driving down the interstate and the Oil Pressure dropped to ZERO! The engine quickly made a Terrible screaching noise and shut down... It's over.. The car is dead........
I am pretty dissapointed, but now I get to figure out how to build it bigger and better. Hopefully this same time next year I will be back on the road.. But I am going to completely redo the entire car, except for the interior. So I will pull the motor in december and get the car ready to paint.....
Im sorry to hear about your ride, at least you got some experience repairing it and such. I had to pay to get my Ignition coil eplaced along with removing the entire plenum assembly just to get a tune up and service my car. I wish I knew how to fix them instead.
wait so the noise wasnt the timing chain? the 2nd video you have it sounds pretty bad not like mine which is a slapping sound.....did you engine get shot cuz of the timing? or you spun a bearing
No it was the timing chain making the noise. I am not sure why the engine shut down the other night.. he car started fine last night.. OP was fine... I am going to pull the engine to clean it out and see what the heck is going on... I figure there is so much metal in the oil passages that it stopped flow.. The engine heated up and siezed, when it cooled down it started back up.... My theory...
yeh my engine made that noise for a while then the main bearing went and i had some rod knock then i took it to the shop a little to late i had crand damage and needed a new connecting rod.
Well, I did this over the past two days, about 6 hours total. I have a 98 gt. Parts from autozone and ford dealership $170.00 rent harmonic balancer puller $16.00 autozone. Few things I did different. I removed front four bolts on the oil pan and left the others alone. I also loosened up the front 6 bolts per valve cover to gain clearance. pulled the cover off like that. It came off fine like this. My guides were fine, just the passenger side tensioner was bad. The driver side was fine. Also you do not have to worry about resetting the timing or keeping the cam or crank from moving because as along as the chain stays on the sprokets it can not rotate any further then it would with regular driving. Thats about it, running now and better then ever. Thanks for the write up.
Posts: 11
Joined: 12/15/2007 From: The OC, Calif. Status: offline
Is there a way to lift the engine up to pull the oil pan and replace the oil pump while still in the car?
A little trick we do with our circle track racers on the oil pump is to cut V notches in the side of the sheet metal cover to allow more oil to the screen.
I'm looking at a '95 V6 Mustang in trade for a '85 VW Scirocco that I have and the Mustang has a tick to it too....? Same deal on 3.8's?
Nice write up man. Have fun trying to put the timing cover back on with the valve covers all ready sitting there?
Just some advice anytime you have a problem like that it is more than likely a oil pressure problem that lead to the failure of the tenisioner (the opperate off of oil pressure) you should change out the oil pump while your in there.
Have you ever opened up ANY engine??? The oil pump is underneath the engine and you must pull the oil pan off to change it out! The oil pan doesn't have to come off for the timing chain install! Oil pressure could be from clogged screen. Oil pumps either work or they don't. There is no compression like cyliders that effect reliability. Marvel Mystery oil for a few hundred miles or straight up Kerosene for a couple of days will clean any sludge that is restricting oil flow!
i think this is my problem just started if u would can u call me or can i call u on this 417-396-9488 if i dont fix it i am gona put a new motor in next week it only takes 2 hours lol!!!! and 3,000 lol thanks ask for casey
Posts: 11
Joined: 12/15/2007 From: The OC, Calif. Status: offline
Since my last post, I have done some looking at these Mustangs.
You can disconnect the steering shaft, sway bar, calipers (brake lines may or not flex enough), maybe a few other things too, support the engine up top with a cross beam on the struts and then un bolt the K (engine frame) bolts and lower down with a floor jack to get the oil pan and pump off......
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RE: HOW TO: Fix the 4.6L GT Ticking noise... - 
