I'm gonna start my build for a 4.2L block. This will be a slow process, as money allows. I'm going to get a low mileage 3.8 block and have it honed and balanced. Then get the 4.2L stroker kit from SSM withthe M112 kit from mysteed sittin on top. Ported intakes and ported heads. Then drop it in my car and use it for my daily driver. Should i port the stock heads or get new ones? Will the transmission be able to hold up; it has 108,000 miles and no problems. It will be a slow process, but i'm hoping to havethe enginedone and in my car in lessthan a year.
Is there anything else I am missing?

I think i found my build engine, it's an 02 has 35k on it and he wants $350. I was looking at the stage 3 heads from SSM and would that be a good way to go?

not bad....mine was a 99 with 29k for $450

I found a complete engine in New Orleans for $125 with blown head gaskets out of a 99. Has everything but the accessories. I'm waiting to see if the guy is willing to deliver, if not I may have to call in some favors. This is gonna be perfect for my build.

dang ryan thats a good deal. with all that you need to take those heads off, port them, and get a 3angle valve job....make it flow way better with the blower on top.....thats what ive done

He says it has no compression in one of the cylinders in his ad, but doesn't know if it's blown head gaskets or not, so I'm waiting and waiting.......

I would stay away from the 99-00 block for the 4.2L build. All 4.2 crankshafts are zero balance, soif you use a external balanced engine(99-early 00)youcannot reuse your flywheel/flexplate or your balancer. (The exception is if you have an aftermarket flywheel with a removable weight.) For the 4.2 youmustneed to usezero balance parts.

woah woah what?? explain this is the first ive heard of this

Refer to this thread i made at 3.8mustang, a lot easier than typing it all.
http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209905

well ive got an 03 so im good right??

Yea.

[sm=icon_rock.gif]

Back to my question, would it be cheaper to buy the stage 3 heads from SSM or port the existing ones on the motor. I would also have to add stiffer valve springs and bigger valves.

Would it also be a good idea toadd longer hardened pushrods in there?

oh yeah....that....sorry......umm i never bought and ssm heads but i do know that i got my nasty looking 4.2 heads fully cleand with a 3angle valve job and new plugs and seals for $225....and i ported them myself :)

Are you stroked?

Nvm, just looked in your sig. It's hiding in there lol.

well the motor thats in my car right now is the 3.8 but im puttin my 4.2 in this saturday :)

It's good to finally see a pic of what makes them different, it's tough to tell what you're working with on the internet. Hell, for $125 it worth it's weight in cores. Now what difference will the balance type be if the only thing being used is the bare block with all new everything going in to it? I don't see a casting difference for the sake of the crankshaft balancing. Know what I mean?

I just did some re-reading.

Blocks should not matter, Tom knows the exact difference, but I think no matter what all the later blocks are stronger(99+) and slightly lighter (01+), but anything after 98 is fine.

Only if you are transplanting old parts from an external balance does it seem to matter.

My engine is already internally balanced, so my Spec flywheel will be fine along with the billet balancer from SSM.

They will also be the last parts put on the engine, obviously, so the block will be fine.

I'm running the 4.3 kit, so all the internals will work perfectly, even if I reuse my old stockbalancer

Now does anyone see a problem with all of this, if so LET IT OUT! I thinkI may be on the right track though, whatya guys think?

Ithink he was refering to using the stock flywheel with the 4.2 crank. Block for block i believe it will make no difference, but don't quote me on that.

Ryan, are you having your block bored for that extra .1L of displacement?

Whatever it needs, it's getting. I'm gonna be offshore a lot during the whole thing, so I may have to let the local machine shop do a lot of the assembly in order to have it done on time. I already plan on letting them dip, boil, and magnaflux the block, instal the cam bearings and cam, and possibly cement the block for strength as well. I'm gonna check on putting a ceramic coating on the outside of the block as well and getting all the coolant passages extrude honed if it's cost effective and available

I think it's all in the stroke and not the bore though, just can't really tell without getting my hands on it.

The F150 4.2L crank will give it a stroke to 4.2,the bore will make it a 4.3

Then so be it lol

An e-mail from Tom:

You have to bore the block anyhow to get the proper piston to wall clearance, our pistons are offered in .020 over or 3.830 bore and .050 overor 3.860 bore. The bigger bore equates to the 4.3L, but we actuallly recommend 3.830 bore just to keep as much metal in the cylinder walls as possible.

So i'm getting the .020 bore, yay!

man you all are doing what i plan on gettin into in january after the funds are for sure.. because right night the season is puttin everything on hold.. so yea.. keep us updated i wanna know everything!:D

Here's some pics of the motor i am using for my biuld.

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m232/matthewvestal/SD530151.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m232/matthewvestal/SD530152.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m232/matthewvestal/SD530153.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m232/matthewvestal/SD530154.jpg

ooooh red x's!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

lol i can see them ryan....looks like a mustang motor.....thought you were getting an f150

The pics work for me. This motor was the only one i could find locally and at a decent price. Should be worried about the rust on it?