We are just changing where the brushes contact the track. In essence moving the entire track down a little.
So where is the initiall point of contact - closest to the gold plate or farthest? In other words - Which way does the brush move across the strip when you press the pedal - TOWARD the gold plate or AWAY from it? If the initial point of conact is AWAY from the gold plate and the brush moves TOWARD it, then WOT would be the exact opposite of your picture - it would be over the gold plate. If the brush initially STARTS over the gold plate and moves away from it, my problem there is - how is this physically possible given the position of the brushes?
I think I need to see a diagram of exactly how this whole apparatus works. The pictures just aren't cutting it for me.
< Message edited by richmod -- 8/31/2007 10:47:01 AM >
Lets see. Bend wipers. No thanks. Install a new travel stop so the relaxed travel is a few mm less. Hmmmmmm Sounds like a better way instead of bending wipers. Soon the carbon will be worn away from too much pressure from misbent wipers. Forget the lag, how about the new dead spots and undesired quirky response from missing resistance material? Put a travel stop on mine and now its fully micro adjustable with no bending of wipers. Hows that for a modified mod?
That would be fine logic but they WILL wear out no matter what. Probably a little sooner with the mod but in the end, it will wear out.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: P Zero
He could strap a rocket to his ass and beat em on foot too. -P.
It's a nice discovery, I guess, but I don't really see what it gives? Like the clutch or brake bite points, the gas pedal is just something you get used to.
- Unless of course you go to meetings where these things are measured, with an award for the person with the least amount of dead pedal
< Message edited by marcuskeeler -- 8/31/2007 10:50:41 AM >
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www.mkeeler.com/mustang/ Minority group member - Got three pedals and I like going round corners
We are just changing where the brushes contact the track. In essence moving the entire track down a little.
So where is the initiall point of contact - closest to the gold plate or farthest? In other words - Which way does the brush move across the strip when you press the pedal - TOWARD the gold plate or AWAY from it? If the initial point of conact is AWAY from the gold plate and the brush moves TOWARD it, then WOT would be the exact opposite of your picture - it would be over the gold plate. If the brush initially STARTS over the gold plate and moves away from it, my problem there is - how is this physically possible given the position of the brushes?
I think I need to see a diagram of exactly how this whole apparatus works. The pictures just aren't cutting it for me.
Take a look at the pic I posted on Page 5. I was asking a question when I modified it. The white circles are where the brushes are located when your car is at idle. The black circles are where your brushes are located at WOT.
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2007 4.6 Alloy - Premium, IUP
Functionals - JLT II/BAMA, CHE LCA's, CHE k-brace, Eibach Pro Kit Visuals - Sequential Tail lights, Chrome inner door handles
Lets see. Bend wipers. No thanks. Install a new travel stop so the relaxed travel is a few mm less. Hmmmmmm Sounds like a better way instead of bending wipers. Soon the carbon will be worn away from too much pressure from misbent wipers. Forget the lag, how about the new dead spots and undesired quirky response from missing resistance material? Put a travel stop on mine and now its fully micro adjustable with no bending of wipers. Hows that for a modified mod?
That would be fine logic but they WILL wear out no matter what. Probably a little sooner with the mod but in the end, it will wear out.
This may be true, but Ford has life-cycle tested these to last x amount of cycles. This mod may prematurely wear them. How much is anyones guess.
BTW, I think I like "pot" better than "rheo". More sensitivity with a "pot".
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Jim Elbows-High Performance, LLC Home of the VentPod 2001 GT Bullitt Intake, VT Stage II cams, Hookers, J-Mod, PI3600, SFC's, LCA's, tubular front, rr seat delete, Scorpion racing seats, deep-dish out back.
It's a nice discovery, I guess, but I don't really see what it gives? Like the clutch or brake bite points, the gas pedal is just something you get used to.
- Unless of course you go to meetings where these things are measured, with an award for the person with the least amount of dead pedal
I cat tell you how many times I have jerked my car when shifting because I have the pedal resting in the "dead zone". It's not a bad jerk but it's enough to piss me off when I shift. Realistically I am just being lazy when I am shifting; not paying attention. If I can improve my shifting while being lazy and learn a little about my car in the process then I am all for it. I just had one question which is listed on page 5. Someone please answer it
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2007 4.6 Alloy - Premium, IUP
Functionals - JLT II/BAMA, CHE LCA's, CHE k-brace, Eibach Pro Kit Visuals - Sequential Tail lights, Chrome inner door handles
It's a nice discovery, I guess, but I don't really see what it gives? Like the clutch or brake bite points, the gas pedal is just something you get used to.
- Unless of course you go to meetings where these things are measured, with an award for the person with the least amount of dead pedal
*whispering* Pssssst, hey guys, be quiet, here he comes. Lets not tell him about our secret club meetings. shhhhhhh.
Okay, I think I see how the throttle works now. That little plastic circle at the end of the black housing carbon strip part AND the end of the white housing acts as a hinge (or axis), When you press the pedal, the whole white housing slides rotates around that axis thus sliding the brushes across the carbon strips . Correct?
If I'm right about how the throttle works, then the brushes are ALWAYS in contact with the carbon strip. this mod is only changing WHERE the brushes are in contact with the strip. The theory is that somehow if the brushes start above the gold plate instead of a few mm to the right of it, somehow that decreases throttle delay, supposedly because that area of the strip is more "sensitive". But sensitive to what - movement of the brush? Meaning, in that area above the gold plate, it would take less brush movement to illicit the same amount of throttle response than it would elsewhere? I don't get it. The maximum distance traveled by the brushes across the strip is still the same, just shifted. Seems to me the ECU would just account for this shift and just make the new position it's new "normal". Enlighten me please someone/
< Message edited by richmod -- 8/31/2007 11:32:21 AM >
Lets see. Bend wipers. No thanks. Install a new travel stop so the relaxed travel is a few mm less. Hmmmmmm Sounds like a better way instead of bending wipers. Soon the carbon will be worn away from too much pressure from misbent wipers. Forget the lag, how about the new dead spots and undesired quirky response from missing resistance material? Put a travel stop on mine and now its fully micro adjustable with no bending of wipers. Hows that for a modified mod?
That would be fine logic but they WILL wear out no matter what. Probably a little sooner with the mod but in the end, it will wear out.
This may be true, but Ford has life-cycle tested these to last x amount of cycles. This mod may prematurely wear them. How much is anyones guess.
BTW, I think I like "pot" better than "rheo". More sensitivity with a "pot".
I was lucky to pull that one out of memory that hadn't been touched in 35 years, even with the bad spelling.
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2007 GT Coupe Premium Windveil Blue, 3.31, Auto, 18" Fanblades, Interior Upgrade, Active Anti-Theft, Side Bags, Leather, K&N Drop-in, Splash Guards, 14" Antenna, Rolled Tips, Born on date...3/07
Posts: 329
Joined: 4/17/2007 From: The Hinterlands of Minne-snow-ta Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: tube
The patch of carbon on top of the gold pad is less sensitive because it has METAL underneath it, and that metal is making continuous contact with all of the carbon on top of it, negating its ability to act as a variable resistor.
Only AFTER the metal pad, is the carbon sensitive and acting as resistor.
thie is great.just ordered new pedal and will try when it comes.TUBE, GREAT POST,YOU HAVE MY GRAITUDE.wish c&d was more into every day cars,but the high dollar ones are great.
By changing the angle of the brushes, we are changing the area where the brushes contact the track. My question is what happens if we adjust these brushes too far and they contact the Plates on the other side of the track. this would happen under a WOT scenario. I have modded your pic to clarify my question.
Anyway, because you are bending the tabs so they go forward, there is no problem at WOT, as the brush just comes and makes contact with the WOT side brass pad area, and the ECU automatically opens the throttle 100% there anyway.
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2008 Mustang GT Premium White Manual Factory HID headlights
It's a nice discovery, I guess, but I don't really see what it gives? Like the clutch or brake bite points, the gas pedal is just something you get used to.
- Unless of course you go to meetings where these things are measured, with an award for the person with the least amount of dead pedal
it works just like a short trough shifter. if the distance from 1 to 2 is shorten you can shift quicker here if the the brush touchs the carbon quicker it tells the ecu to open the T/b quicker. you are just getting rid of the gap. like olf stile cables you use to shorthen the cable and make tight so when you accelerate it is more sensible. imagine we all have a loosen cable, this is the electronic way of making it tight and NICE!
By changing the angle of the brushes, we are changing the area where the brushes contact the track. My question is what happens if we adjust these brushes too far and they contact the Plates on the other side of the track. this would happen under a WOT scenario. I have modded your pic to clarify my question.
Anyway, because you are bending the tabs so they go forward, there is no problem at WOT, as the brush just comes and makes contact with the WOT side brass pad area, and the ECU automatically opens the throttle 100% there anyway.
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2007 4.6 Alloy - Premium, IUP
Functionals - JLT II/BAMA, CHE LCA's, CHE k-brace, Eibach Pro Kit Visuals - Sequential Tail lights, Chrome inner door handles
Put the cover back onto the pedal assembly. NOTE: There is a rubber gasket that goes in the slot. MAKE SURE not to lose it, or crush it, this could cause your vehicle to accelerate uncontrolably! Screw the 5 TORX screws back in VERY CAREFULLY do not distort the cover, or you may bend the wires and cause bad ju ju.
< Message edited by kleistang -- 8/31/2007 12:04:23 PM >
By changing the angle of the brushes, we are changing the area where the brushes contact the track. My question is what happens if we adjust these brushes too far and they contact the Plates on the other side of the track. this would happen under a WOT scenario. I have modded your pic to clarify my question.
Anyway, because you are bending the tabs so they go forward, there is no problem at WOT, as the brush just comes and makes contact with the WOT side brass pad area, and the ECU automatically opens the throttle 100% there anyway.
Well, that doesn't make sense to me. If you're adjusting the brush closer to one edge of the carbon strip intially, then the end point of the brush at WOT would have to be FARTHER from the other end of the strip. If the "side brass pad area" is in reality the WOT area as you say, then you would not be reaching there anymore after the brush adjustment. Correct? Not trying to be confrontational, just truly trying to get a grasp on this.
By changing the angle of the brushes, we are changing the area where the brushes contact the track. My question is what happens if we adjust these brushes too far and they contact the Plates on the other side of the track. this would happen under a WOT scenario. I have modded your pic to clarify my question.
Exactly. Thats why the travel stop works much better than the bending method. "Open thyn eyes for the sake of being blinded by the light."
Printable Version
RE: DIY THROTTLE RESPONSE MOD (MUST SEE!) - 
GREAT POST,YOU HAVE MY GRAITUDE.wish c&d was more into every day cars,but the high dollar ones are great.
