Hmmm reminds me of the 99-04 gas pedal trick.Diden't think it would work for our stangs. Makes me wonder though. You did it for your stock stang right....and everything turned out great. Now one with a brenspeed tune the ecu is tuned and its for the one with the dead pedal. Would it still have the same effect?
Jeweler's pliers....those things look like you been skinning catfish with them. Anyway, I think we need to rename you. Something like Taco Tube. Nice job.
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2007 GT Coupe Premium Windveil Blue, 3.31, Auto, 18" Fanblades, Interior Upgrade, Active Anti-Theft, Side Bags, Leather, K&N Drop-in, Splash Guards, 14" Antenna, Rolled Tips, Born on date...3/07
I'll do it on Sunday i hated my car just because i hate the Electric Throtle body. This sounds excellente but i really thing that someone should come with a cable controlled T/B for our cars.
Thanks!!! now i have something to do. It's been some time since i don't do anything to my car
They started out as jewlers pliers... until I got to them!
Yes, essentially you're taking the angle out of the wires so that the tips of them are contacting a point further up on the carbon track. You really can't over do it, as the ECU will recalibrate once you start it for the first time.
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2008 Mustang GT Premium White Manual Factory HID headlights
Well I have to disagree about what some are saying. After my custom dyno tune my car is so responsive it wants to leap forward instantly when I touch the gas pedal. I have to be more aware in traffic so I don't rear-end a slow poke taking off at a light. I think this might be why Ford set it up the way they did so that people with less driving skill do not get into trouble. I understand your take on the mechanical aspect but in my case the car has become very responsive. It may be that there are variations in every car as these fine adjustments can create wide spread variations in performance.
Well I have to disagree about what some are saying. After my custom dyno tune my car is so responsive it wants to leap forward instantly when I touch the gas pedal. I have to be more aware in traffic so I don't rear-end a slow poke taking off at a light. I think this might be why Ford set it up the way they did so that people with less driving skill do not get into trouble. I understand your take on the mechanical aspect but in my case the car has become very responsive. It may be that there are variations in every car as these fine adjustments can create wide spread variations in performance.
Could very well be. I know that after Vietnam, our boys came home with a pocket full of money (maybe not a pocket full) and bought Bosses and GT's and Mach's. Many ended up in the ditch dead. Something the Gooks couldn't do. It was determined that they were not used to driving beasts and couldn't handle them.
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2007 GT Coupe Premium Windveil Blue, 3.31, Auto, 18" Fanblades, Interior Upgrade, Active Anti-Theft, Side Bags, Leather, K&N Drop-in, Splash Guards, 14" Antenna, Rolled Tips, Born on date...3/07
Posts: 533
Joined: 5/5/2007 From: Cottonwood Heights, Utah Status: offline
Very nice write-up.
I solved this problem another way. All I did was put a "spacer" on the gas pedal arm, so when you take your foot off the gas it doesn't release as far. Really just adjusting the stop postion of the pedal arm.
Thats essentially doing the same thing, but won't be as exact as actually adjusting the brushes. I thought about doing that but I knew there had to be a better way.
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2008 Mustang GT Premium White Manual Factory HID headlights
I solved this problem another way. All I did was put a "spacer" on the gas pedal arm, so when you take your foot off the gas it doesn't release as far. Really just adjusting the stop postion of the pedal arm.
I was just thinking the same thing. Can you post a pic and/or describe what you did - material/size/placement of spacer, etc?
To my amazement, the track was starting about 2mm before the brush actually even TOUCHED the sensitive carbon part!!!
I take a pair of fine jewlers pliers, and bend each metal brush and tab just a few millimeters so that they will make perfect contact right on the edge of the carbon film.
Okay - let me make sure I understand this. Are the brushes:
1. ALWAYS in contact with the carbon part, and hiting the pedal just changes WHERE they are making contact...OR 2. NOT in constant contact, and when you hit the pedal they touch the carbon strip.
If it's 1 - how does changing WHERE they are in constant contact change throttle response? i.e why does that 2mm make a difference? If it's 2 - wouldn't reducing the angle of the brushes INCREASE the distant between them and the carbon strips?
< Message edited by richmod -- 8/31/2007 7:23:51 AM >
Posts: 533
Joined: 5/5/2007 From: Cottonwood Heights, Utah Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: richmod
quote:
ORIGINAL: grampa_stang
Very nice write-up.
I solved this problem another way. All I did was put a "spacer" on the gas pedal arm, so when you take your foot off the gas it doesn't release as far. Really just adjusting the stop postion of the pedal arm.
I was just thinking the same thing. Can you post a pic and/or describe what you did - material/size/placement of spacer, etc?
I will. My JLT/Xcal/B ama tune is arriving today. So I'll do it then. I'm actually going to re-do the spacer. I tried using rubber at 1st... but over time it became worn or actually "dented". So, I'm actually going try using metal this time. But I will take some pics. It will not be as "clean" as what Tube did...but it'll work. If you get under there with a good light you'll actually be able to see what to do.
Okay - let me make sure I understand this. Are the brushes:
1. ALWAYS in contact with the carbon part, and hiting the pedal just changes WHERE they are making contact...OR 2. NOT in constant contact, and when you hit the pedal they touch the carbon strip.
If it's 1 - how does changing WHERE they are in constant contact change throttle response? i.e why does that 2mm make a difference? If it's 2 - wouldn't reducing the angle of the brushes INCREASE the distant between them and the carbon strips?
It's #2. The distance isn't increased, think about it _| vs. _/
By flattening the angle, you move the brush tip out further, and bring it to the edge of the carbon strip.
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2008 Mustang GT Premium White Manual Factory HID headlights
Okay - let me make sure I understand this. Are the brushes:
1. ALWAYS in contact with the carbon part, and hiting the pedal just changes WHERE they are making contact...OR 2. NOT in constant contact, and when you hit the pedal they touch the carbon strip.
If it's 1 - how does changing WHERE they are in constant contact change throttle response? i.e why does that 2mm make a difference? If it's 2 - wouldn't reducing the angle of the brushes INCREASE the distant between them and the carbon strips?
It's #2. The distance isn't increased, think about it _| vs. _/
By flattening the angle, you move the brush tip out further, and bring it to the edge of the carbon strip.
So how does touching the strip closer to the edge help throttle response? You're not touching the strip SOONER, just farther out, right?
Okay - let me make sure I understand this. Are the brushes:
1. ALWAYS in contact with the carbon part, and hiting the pedal just changes WHERE they are making contact...OR 2. NOT in constant contact, and when you hit the pedal they touch the carbon strip.
If it's 1 - how does changing WHERE they are in constant contact change throttle response? i.e why does that 2mm make a difference? If it's 2 - wouldn't reducing the angle of the brushes INCREASE the distant between them and the carbon strips?
It's #2. The distance isn't increased, think about it _| vs. _/
By flattening the angle, you move the brush tip out further, and bring it to the edge of the carbon strip.
So how does touching the strip closer to the edge help throttle response? You're not touching the strip SOONER, just farther out, right?
If I am understanding all this, think of the carbon wedge as a dimmer switch. It regulates the amount of current and throttle response.
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2007 GT Coupe Premium Windveil Blue, 3.31, Auto, 18" Fanblades, Interior Upgrade, Active Anti-Theft, Side Bags, Leather, K&N Drop-in, Splash Guards, 14" Antenna, Rolled Tips, Born on date...3/07
Notice the gold box, that is the gold metal pad that makes contact with the edge of the carbon strip.
The first green X is where the brush originally touches. You can see, the brush doesn't even get to the sensitive part of the carbon strip (the part AFTER the edge of the gold box) for a few millimeters.
By bending the brush, we move it closer to the edge of the strip, which is the sensitive part of the carbon. This is where the second green line is. You want the brush to be near the second green X.
The thing is, it doesn't have to be exact, and you can't really over do it, as the ECU calibrates the gas pedal every time you start the car to account for wear of the brush, wear of the carbon, spring wear, etc...
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2008 Mustang GT Premium White Manual Factory HID headlights
I don't understand why the carbon patch directly on top of the gold contacts is any more or less reponsive ... what difference does it make? Although this mod may work ... perhaps the reason why is not 100% correct?
The patch of carbon on top of the gold pad is less sensitive because it has METAL underneath it, and that metal is making continuous contact with all of the carbon on top of it, negating its ability to act as a variable resistor.
Only AFTER the metal pad, is the carbon sensitive and acting as resistor.
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2008 Mustang GT Premium White Manual Factory HID headlights
Printable Version
RE: DIY THROTTLE RESPONSE MOD (MUST SEE!) - 
i hated my car just because i hate the Electric Throtle body. This sounds 
