Hey guys, I have been reading some of the posts out there as well as checking on the net for info but haven't found an answer. I have been looking at the Granada swap, but I also have a bunch of new parts and was wondering if they'll work. I have a dual m/c from an 84 gt, single piston calipers 84 gt, pads, and stainless hoses. I am not great at brakes but do I only need the spindles and rotors and tie rods + a good alignment? I just find it pointless to buy the conversion ($)kit if I have most of the parts. They're all brand new in box. I can even change them out with the local dealer if needed. I have also done the lines recently too. These are manual brakes by the way and don't really want to do the booster. Any help?
ORIGINAL: zars50 These are manual brakes by the way and don't really want to do the booster. Any help?
Sorry that I can't answer your question about using those parts, but if you're going to go to all that work, I will suggest you reconsider the manual/power brakes. I switched over to manual front disks a few years ago and didn't really seem to notice any difference in how the car stopped vs the drums. So IMO, if you're going to make the changes, you may as well do the booster too.
Thanks but I guess I'm still confused. The most important thing of the swap would be the spindales and tie rods, correct? The rotors are interchangable as well as the calipers, right? The year part really doesn't matter then. And this is not the first place I have heard info to get the 74 maverick m/c. Anybody else firmly suggest the booster for or against it? Is that something else that can be added later using the same m/c and rod?(only have to bleed everything again) I guess I am just trying to save some money like everyone and do some of the work myself but don't know too much about brakes.
I wouldn't skimp on brakes, especially if you plan on racing it. I'm running Wilwood up front, with manual brakes, no power, and I can lock the tires at any speed. The effort in a manual system is gonna be based on a number of things, but primarily the m/c piston diameter, and the surface area of all the combined brake pistons. Smaller m/c piston with larger brake piston area will make for low pedal effort, just as long as you have enough m/c throw to move the volume necessary to actuate the brakes. Saves money not having to buy a brake booster, one less thing to go wrong, and you can run a lumpy cam with crap manifold vacuum later on if you want and not have to worry about having no brakes. There's nothing wrong with running power brakes either, it's just something to consider
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Who cares how much horsepower it has, all that matters is how fast it goes!
Best run 13.23 at 106.97mph with a 2.183 60' Times from before tune and driver mod.
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