Roller blocks will use roller cam, and hydraulicroller lifters that have a small roller on end ofit to roll on cam. Non-roller have solid lifters and will use a flat tappet cam. 69 -93 i think are non rollers. I am assuming your talking about 351's since it is posted in this section.
A hyd. roller cam is not cheaper than a flat tappet cam. And the hyd. flat tappets are way more common than solid flat tappets. I'm not sure of what or if any cars came OEM with 351W solid flat tappet cams.
Anyway, the roller blocks cost more. The hyd. roller cams will make more power than the hyd. flat tappets. All solid cams require you to periodically check and adjust lash. These are usually reserved for aggressive builds that don't see a ton of street miles (unless you don't mind the extra effort).
You can convert a non-roller block to use a roller cam.
I have a solidcam in a 70's block. 588/622 lift and duration @ .050 is 246/259. Maintenance is not that bad on lash. I dont drive it very often , but i adjust lash about twice a year. I like my flat tappet, it makes very good power. i shift at 6800 rpm. A 70's block is supposed to be stronger that the roller blocks. You can convert but it is expensive. Just get a 70's block, throw a solid cam in there and hang on.
I am not sure how much it cost to convert a non roller to a roller, the purpose of the conversion is so you can use a roller cam. Maybe a few hundred dollars, but not sure. If you convert non roller to roller you are not going weaken or strengthen the block, the block will be the same regardless. If i had a 70's block (which i do) i would use the money for other parts and stick with the flat tappet. The only conversion i made to my block was getting it machined for a 1 piece rear main instead of a two piece for easier replacement. I think you need an example of what to do with your car and motor. Just kidding. But here is a shameless plug of most of my specs and some pics.
351 .030 over,a little over 11:1 compression,DRP Pistons,Forged I-beam rods,Custom grind-588/622 lift, duration @.050 is 246/259,Stage 2 ported Trick Flows, 1.7TF roller Rockers,Holley HP 750, Victor JR, MSD dig 6 plus,DSS main support,SFI balancer,13/4 long tubes,3in x-pipe, 2 fuel systems-Magna Fuel and Holley,31 spline moser axles,MAC rear end girdle,connectors,adjustable uppers and lowers,air bag with drag springs,90/10 lakewood struts,moser spool,TKO 600,Spec stg 3 clutch,SFI Spec steel billet flywheel,Autometer oil,water,fuel pressure,fuel guage,nitrous pressure guages,man. brakes,line-loc and a bunch of other stuff that i dont feel like having to remember.
Not sure of power, I had a dyno appt. but my dizzy gear sheared on me. When i get running again i will be getting a dyno and tune, with the compression i want to make sure i dont have to worry about detonation.
Suspension:31 spline moser axles,MAC rear end girdle,connectors,adjustable uppers and lowers,air bag with drag springs,90/10 lakewood struts,50/50's up front,moser spool, welded sub-frame conn. welded axle tubes and torque boxes, 27in MT ET streets,that's about all i can think of right now.
500/600 at the wheels is pushing the limits of block, but may be ok. The non-roller 70's blocks are stronger. The earlier the better with the 69 being the strongest but has a diff. deck height, 70 is next strongest, and the rest of the 70's are pretty strong. I would stay away from 80 and up for that kind of power.
roller blocks
