I've already researched a little on these. I know the cheapest one is $386 at shaftmasters and they take away the vibration of our cars when we travel at high speeds. But I still have a few ?'s:
1.Install would take about an hour right?
2.How fast can our stang's go now with the aluminum DS over stock?
3.What type of RearWheel HP gains could I look at from getting one(throughtout the rpm band, low-end, top-end)?
4.What other good things do u gain by putting this in(rotational weight reduction,etc.)?
5.Do u think it was worth it?

Thanx ahead of time.

1. Shaftmasters. lol. nough said.
2. You have the link to that site?
3. I'm very sure that an aluminum driveshaft is worth every penny. Including shipping.
4. I don't think your going to be getting big gains. Its going to take the power you have now and put it to better use.

here's the website: http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=17, hope it helps, I read it's worth everypenny but want to make sure before I buy one.

those have not been out very long...I would give them a few more months to allow other people to have really tried them out. a lot of people are jumping on it because it is cheap....call me paranoid, but I would spend the extra hundred and go for the powerhouse one for now. if nobody has issues with the shaftmaster ones over the next few months, then go for that one

remember that the DS is a part of the car that can get you seriously injured if it fails.

I agree with chrisc! Some things will cost more money than others and you may have to go that way.

OK so I'll weight till next yr to do this mod and see if the shaftmasters hold up.
Thanx again guys!

Powerhouse is where I ordered mine from and I believe it was worth the money (I paid aroun $500). You lose some of the rotational mass of the driveline which will free up hp.

ORIGINAL: pat6674u

Powerhouse is where I ordered mine from and I believe it was worth the money (I paid aroun $500). You lose some of the rotational mass of the driveline which will free up hp.

not to mention that you can get a proper dyno lol ;)

Also you don't have to worrying about it rusting like the ones Ford installed.

8cd said it best, having an aluminum driveshaft will put more HP to your wheels because there won't be as much weight and friction loss.

ORIGINAL: sdsguy

8cd said it best, having an aluminum driveshaft will put more HP to your wheels because there won't be as much weight and friction loss.


"Friction"?? What friction does a drive shaft have??

ORIGINAL: chrisc


ORIGINAL: pat6674u

Powerhouse is where I ordered mine from and I believe it was worth the money (I paid aroun $500). You lose some of the rotational mass of the driveline which will free up hp.

not to mention that you can get a proper dyno lol ;)


Yeah, that's where Afixer's came flying off.

its really not going to do much for HP unless you upgrade the tranny with lightweight stuff as well, the driveshafts on the new 6ers have been known to give out so if you plan on putting down big power or drive on the autobahn it is worth it

The Shaftmaster DS is a top notch unit! Well worth the money! I see NO difference between it and the PH shaft other than price...

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/shaft3.JPG

my full review is at: http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/mistress_gets_the_shaft.htm

ORIGINAL: scrming

The Shaftmaster DS is a top notch unit! Well worth the money! I see NO difference between it and the PH shaft other than price...

Hey Scremin,
I have a few questions. First !!!! were is the mistress?? then can you tell us what all the advantages of the alum. DS are? Is it a DIY job? You always seem to have good info.
I hope nothing happend to your car !!! Thanks



http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/shaft3.JPG

my full review is at: http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/mistress_gets_the_shaft.htm

When I saw that John (Scrming) put a Shaftmasters aluminum shaft of The Mistress, I was on the phone an ordered one for my V6 and it showed up on the front door about 3 days later completely ready to install. These guys package their shafts like it's going to be shipped to some planet in another solar system. There's no way this sucker's gonna get damaged in route to your house. I could have installed it myself but had my mechanic at Sarasota Ford do it for me. Rick said it was one of the easiest bolt ons he had ever done. I've put it through some paces over the last week and it's hangin real tough with what I've put it through so far. It may be inexpensive but it's as good as anything out there right now, and the quality and fit is superb! Good luck guys, Jack.:D

ORIGINAL: pperin

Hey Scremin,
I have a few questions. First !!!! were is the mistress?? then can you tell us what all the advantages of the alum. DS are? Is it a DIY job? You always seem to have good info.
I hope nothing happend to your car !!! Thanks



As others have listed the things that come to mind are:

1) Reduced weight!
2) Sturdy! This sucker is not going to fly apart on the dyno! More than one stock shaft has self-destructed!
3) Smooth!!! Those nasty vibrations are gone! Open stretch of highway... very very unlike me... Crusing at 100MPH the car felt great!

and finally... I was having a heck of time with the rear pinion seal leaking! We tried everything... finally broke down and bought the Shaftmaster DS... PROBLEM SOLVED!!! No more leaks!!

As far as the Mistres... can you say HUMMER!

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Hummer/Mound/mound3.jpg

long story... after much agnozing... decided on a more family oriented vehicle....

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Hummer/Hum4.jpg

ORIGINAL: scrming

ORIGINAL: pperin

Hey Scremin,
I have a few questions. First !!!! were is the mistress?? then can you tell us what all the advantages of the alum. DS are? Is it a DIY job? You always seem to have good info.
I hope nothing happend to your car !!! Thanks



As others have listed the things that come to mind are:

1) Reduced weight!
2) Sturdy! This sucker is not going to fly apart on the dyno! More than one stock shaft has self-destructed!
3) Smooth!!! Those nasty vibrations are gone! Open stretch of highway... very very unlike me... Crusing at 100MPH the car felt great!

and finally... I was having a heck of time with the rear pinion seal leaking! We tried everything... finally broke down and bought the Shaftmaster DS... PROBLEM SOLVED!!! No more leaks!!

As far as the Mistres... can you say HUMMER!

Hey John,
Sorry to say we will all miss "the mistress" it was always cool to see her progress. I certainly hope that we don't lose you on this forum. Good Luck with the new ride!! Phil
And if I can ask another? will the alum DS free up power like the 3.73 gears did? In other words will the car be quicker even though the DS doesn't accually increase HP?

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Hummer/Mound/mound3.jpg

long story... after much agnozing... decided on a more family oriented vehicle....

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Hummer/Hum4.jpg

I know that a few guys have said that the install on th DS is easy and it looks like 8 bolts. But does anyone know if the DS is automaticaly indexed and if there are any other tips on the install like torquing bolts, lock tite need etc. Thanks

The Shaftmaster DS comes to you as a direct bolt on with you only having to put the four bolts on each end in place. No adapter plates or any of that nonsense. No indexing involved. You'll have to raise the car and place your jackstands so that four stands support the body and two additional stands are available to support the rear axle, you can also use a floor jack if you want. You have to be able to rotate the driveshaft itself so you can get to the bolts to tighten them. You can torge 'em if you want, but my mechanic said just crank them as tight as you can get them. Yes, use PLENTY of loctite! Rick my mechanic said invest in a new set of bolts from your Ford dealership because the bolts come with a special loctite already on them, and this stuff holds like hell. Good luck, Jack.

Hey John, You got rid of the mistress?????Sold it or just put it in the garage?

ORIGINAL: jlwilhelm

The Shaftmaster DS comes to you as a direct bolt on with you only having to put the four bolts on each end in place. No adapter plates or any of that nonsense. No indexing involved. You'll have to raise the car and place your jackstands so that four stands support the body and two additional stands are available to support the rear axle, you can also use a floor jack if you want. You have to be able to rotate the driveshaft itself so you can get to the bolts to tighten them. You can torge 'em if you want, but my mechanic said just crank them as tight as you can get them. Yes, use PLENTY of loctite! Rick my mechanic said invest in a new set of bolts from your Ford dealership because the bolts come with a special loctite already on them, and this stuff holds like hell. Good luck, Jack.


Hey Jl thanks alot your post really informed. Now can you tell me if the DS will make some real noticable diffence in the power being transfered to the wheels?

Hi Phil (pperin), yes you will notice a major difference in the "feel" of the power going to the rear wheels. After driving mine now for a while, and really getting into it on a couple of occassions (left some really nice dual tire tracks out of my subdivision, and this is a V6 mind you), you can feel the difference in the sensation of less rotating mass along the drive line. It's hard to put this into words, but take my word for it, once you put the aluminum shaft in you'll be asking yourself why didn't I do that sooner (cost maybe?). You'll also strengthen your sense of confidence in the more secure feeling you'll get from knowing you got a stronger shaft in the driveline plus the super duty u-joints that come with these shafts. I seriously doubt if any of us will be breaking u-joints considering how strong these items are. And don' t forget another big plus with the aluminum shaft, you'll instantly drop 32 pounds form the car's weight and same amount of weight from the rotational mass in the driveline - bottom line - more horsepower gets to the rear wheels. Take care, Jack.

ORIGINAL: scrming

The Shaftmaster DS is a top notch unit! Well worth the money! I see NO difference between it and the PH shaft other than price...

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/shaft3.JPG

my full review is at: http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/mistress_gets_the_shaft.htm


No offense John, I'm all for saving costs. But you don't have any track data to back your claim, your drive shaft saw no track time before you parted with the mistress. Also, visual inspection is not an objective analysis between the Shaftmasters piece and the PH piece.

Now given that, Shaftmasters has a very good reputation. My point is if you are going to do a cross compassion, have something more than a pic and no track time to back it up.

ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke

ORIGINAL: scrming

The Shaftmaster DS is a top notch unit! Well worth the money! I see NO difference between it and the PH shaft other than price...

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/shaft3.JPG

my full review is at: http://www.v6john.com/Main/Performance/Driveshaft/mistress_gets_the_shaft.htm


No offense John, I'm all for saving costs. But you don't have any track data to back your claim, your drive shaft saw no track time before you parted with the mistress. Also, visual inspection is not an objective analysis between the Shaftmasters piece and the PH piece.

Now given that, Shaftmasters has a very good reputation. My point is if you are going to do a cross compassion, have something more than a pic and no track time to back it up.



What claim? My claim was I see no difference... And I don't... Look at the specs of the two driveshafts.. they are identical!! I'm not simply looking at them, i'm comparing specs! I would call that objective enough to say they are the same... To be objective at the track you would have to make mutliple runs with all 3 driveshafts (stock, ph and sm). I don't think anyone here is going to do that... Sorry but I don't see anything in the PH that makes it worth an extra $133.

Thats fair enough man, but your post didn't indicate that the specs were the same, or you compared the specs. You simply posted "I see NO difference" and a pic. I too am very curious as to the difference between these units, because there has to be a reason for the cost difference. You are right, its not really realistic to test them both on the same car. Both companies have very good reputations, but my point is still..

1. We don't know for sure, the difference between the units

Here are the specs I could find from the PH site:

PowerHouse Automotive, LLC Aluminum Driveshaft. Weighs 14 pounds, decreasing rotational mass. 100% Bolt in, no need to replace pinion flange and recheck rear gear setup
# 4 inch diameter
# 3.0 inch 23 spline coupler, with nearly 3.5 inches of spline engagement.
# Includes Dustcover to protect the splined section from dirt and debris.
# Includes all hardware, and necessary adapters.
# Installation requires only common hand tools and can be done in less than 1 hour

Here are the specs I can find from the Shaftmasters site:

Direct Replacement for your Factory Steel Driveshaft

* Fits vehicles with automatic transmission
* Reduce weight and Rotational Mass
* Manufactured using Spicer components including 1330 series solid u-joints
* 4 inch diameter
* 3 inch 23 spline coupler with almost 4 inches of spline engagement
* Includes dust cover to protect spline area from dirt and debris
* Installation requires only hand tools and can be done in less 1 hour

Installation Notes:
*Mustangs with Stock Ride Height - Direct bolt-in installation, no modification required.
*Mustangs that are Lowered 1-2 Inches - Emergency Brake Cable Bracket must be relocated 1 1/2 inches away from driveshaft tunnel to give additional clearance for driveshaft. This is a simple job of re-drilling bracket bolt hole.
*Mustangs that are lowered 2 Inches or more - Emergency Brake Cable Bracket must be relocated (as explained above), and two small flanges of metal that are part of the floorpan must be bent flat against the bottom of the tunnel. This is an easy 10 minute operation that will not effect the structural integrity of your Mustang.

From what I hear, Shaftmasters is top notch stuff. The descriptions of the products are very simular, but I would like to know 100% if there are differences. If there are not any major differences, than fair enough and go for the price savings.

ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke

Thats fair enough man, but your post didn't indicate that the specs were the same, or you compared the specs. You simply posted "I see NO difference" and a pic. I too am very curious as to the difference between these units, because there has to be a reason for the cost difference. You are right, its not really realistic to test them both on the same car. Both companies have very good reputations, but my point is still..

1. We don't know for sure, the difference between the units

Here are the specs I could find from the PH site:

PowerHouse Automotive, LLC Aluminum Driveshaft. Weighs 14 pounds, decreasing rotational mass. 100% Bolt in, no need to replace pinion flange and recheck rear gear setup
# 4 inch diameter
# 3.0 inch 23 spline coupler, with nearly 3.5 inches of spline engagement.
# Includes Dustcover to protect the splined section from dirt and debris.
# Includes all hardware, and necessary adapters.
# Installation requires only common hand tools and can be done in less than 1 hour

Here are the specs I can find from the Shaftmasters site:

Direct Replacement for your Factory Steel Driveshaft

* Fits vehicles with automatic transmission
* Reduce weight and Rotational Mass
* Manufactured using Spicer components including 1330 series solid u-joints
* 4 inch diameter
* 3 inch 23 spline coupler with almost 4 inches of spline engagement
* Includes dust cover to protect spline area from dirt and debris
* Installation requires only hand tools and can be done in less 1 hour

Installation Notes:
*Mustangs with Stock Ride Height - Direct bolt-in installation, no modification required.
*Mustangs that are Lowered 1-2 Inches - Emergency Brake Cable Bracket must be relocated 1 1/2 inches away from driveshaft tunnel to give additional clearance for driveshaft. This is a simple job of re-drilling bracket bolt hole.
*Mustangs that are lowered 2 Inches or more - Emergency Brake Cable Bracket must be relocated (as explained above), and two small flanges of metal that are part of the floorpan must be bent flat against the bottom of the tunnel. This is an easy 10 minute operation that will not effect the structural integrity of your Mustang.

From what I hear, Shaftmasters is top notch stuff. The descriptions of the products are very simular, but I would like to know 100% if there are differences. If there are not any major differences, than fair enough and go for the price savings.



My bad... yes, I should have clarified that I had compared specs....

No sweat John, we've been at this for a long time...and its rare when you and I engage in debate. Though we always manage to come out of it in a friendly manner. You are right, I jumped the gun on track testing, impossible to do back to back in a privately owned car.

I put one in that I had custom made at a rear axle & driveshaft shop. Top notch! It weighs alot less, maybe only a 1/3rd of the weight. It's very smooth... I can feel it in the peddle... it will allow a few extra horses to the rearwheels... nothing to get that excited about however when combined with other mods the overall package muffler/cai/tune/driveshaft is a rather nice experience and really brings the v6 to life.

ORIGINAL: rygenstormlocke

No sweat John, we've been at this for a long time...and its rare when you and I engage in debate. Though we always manage to come out of it in a friendly manner. You are right, I jumped the gun on track testing, impossible to do back to back in a privately owned car.


LOL! Yeah, don't think there's anything that would cause us to start calling each other bad names...

ORIGINAL: mustangballer20

Hey John, You got rid of the mistress?????Sold it or just put it in the garage?


She's gone... sad but true... a very tough decision... but it was the right one...

What the hell made that decision come about!?

ORIGINAL: banka87

What the hell made that decision come about!?


change in priorities...

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Hummer/Hum4.jpg

http://www.v6john.com/Main/Hummer/Hum5.jpg

With mods on ur car like CAI, 93 Tune, andHi-flow Muffler, how many rwhp gains could u expect from this mod? Is 5-10 reasonable? and any other benefits, revquicker?no vibration at 100mph? How much less weight exactly? Install is approximately how long? fromthe way everyone's talking, I guess a half hour tops.
Thanx for the info!!!

Hello All,
There is 1 main reason for the price difference between a Shaftmasters aluminum shaft and a PowerHouse aluminum shaft. Simply put, Shaftmasters Inc. manufacturers their own driveshafts and PowerHouse does not. From what we can tell PowerHouse is reselling shafts that they have purchased from a driveline shop somewhere. Nothing wrong with that and their shafts look to be good quality. As I have stated before on other forum threads, our shafts and Powerhouse shafts are made from the exact same components. Buy direct from the manufacturer and save over $100. We still offer free shipping to forum members.
Thanks, David

john whos got the car now?!

I bought it and will have it installed when I have my rear end gear fluid changed from the gears break-in. I'll update u on it after it's done. Also, is there any break-in for this?
Thanx

ORIGINAL: jlwilhelm

Rick my mechanic said invest in a new set of bolts from your Ford dealership because the bolts come with a special loctite already on them, and this stuff holds like hell. Good luck, Jack.


Really good call on your part. If that is true, it should be stickied or something. The DS is something that is easy to install, but if you eff up, you can get hurt pretty bad.

ORIGINAL: Dwisforme05

john whos got the car now?!


Some young lady.... My sister-in-law met her at the WDC... apparently the young ladies mother took here Hummer in for service and seen the Mistress in the used lot and knew your daughter would just love it.... LOL

I had my car between 90mph and 110mph for a solid half hour last weekend. I am SOOOOO glad I'd invested in a better driveshaft (from The Driveshaft Shop in my case)

Car was smooth as silk even at 110, and I wasn't worried about the cheesy factory shaft going blammo.....

ORIGINAL: scrming

ORIGINAL: Dwisforme05

john whos got the car now?!


Some young lady.... My sister-in-law met her at the WDC... apparently the young ladies mother took here Hummer in for service and seen the Mistress in the used lot and knew your daughter would just love it.... LOL



Does that mean the car gets rechristened "The Gigolo"? ;)

Does the aluminum driveshaft have a break-in period?
thanx ahead of time

No.

thank u

Had the Shaftmaster product for about 3 months now and all I can say is, first rate! Very nice product.

i can't believe the mistress is gone...for a HUMMER!!!!!!! [:@]

The poor girl has no clue what she go her self in to lol[sm=yikesomg.gif]

ORIGINAL: shaftmasters

Hello All,
There is 1 main reason for the price difference between a Shaftmasters aluminum shaft and a PowerHouse aluminum shaft. Simply put, Shaftmasters Inc. manufacturers there own driveshafts and PowerHouse does not. From what we can tell PowerHouse is reselling shafts that they have purchased from a driveline shop somewhere. Nothing wrong with that and there shafts look to be good quality. As I have stated before on other forum threads, our shafts and Powerhouse shafts are made from the exact same components. Buy direct from the manufacturer and save over $100. We still offer free shipping to forum members.
Thanks, David

Hi John,
I just got my shaftmaster delivered today it's still in the box. I read that if you drop a shaft it needs to be scraped. How do I know that fed ex didn't drop it or put something real heavy on it? Just concered. Thanks Phil

You would have to drop it REALLY hard or put some really serious weight on it. The reason they say that is because if it warps or bends and you put it on, it will blow itself out because its out of balance.

ORIGINAL: ODDYSEY

You would have to drop it REALLY hard or put some really serious weight on it. The reason they say that is because if it warps or bends and you put it on, it will blow itself out because its out of balance.


Good so I guess I don't need to worry about it.

I heard that the facory ones are supposed to be tossed as well if they are dropped, so this is not a shaftmaser specific issue.

When installing these how much does the DS drop down? I have a Hpipe and wonder if it will cause problems. Since I have a GT H pipe this may be best answered by the GT guys who have done a DS swap.

steelstang- you're not gonna get specific number gains for any mods you make; something I've learned over the years working on cars of mine and my friends (i.e. F150, mach1, 2.2L ecotecs).. all depends on the individual engine. With a new d/s you will notice a much more linear acceleration (I noticed this in hopup's car).. you really should take the car in for a dyno tune and a few runs at the track before they shut down for the winter.

Thanks for the help Delstang, I realized that. All my #'s were crank hp estimates from other's experiences. I no the world ofcar performance isn't perfect. I wish I could geta dyno or mail-order in the future but don't want to do it yet till all my modsr done or I wouldjust waste $100-$300. Will get a mail order tune after all the mods I want to do r done, shouldbe by February. Want to get to the track too, but I live near the middle of longisland and the closest drag strips are Jersey or Riverhead(2+hrs away), don't have Drag Radial's yet(suggested),and am working or in school almost every day. Yeah I noticed the Driveshaft had a lot of benefits andknow one will no its gains till we see a dyno sheet. thanx for urhelp and goodluck with ur projects!

I'm in school and working about 40-50 hours a week. I honestly wouldn't bother with a mail order tune. take it to a dyno and get it right. I found you a dyno in Medford, NY at nolimitmotorsport.

Thanx for the help, didn't know a dyno was less than aan hour away.Why don't u like mail-order tunes? It's been proven that unless u do F/I,heads,intake manifolds, or cams that dyno tunes aren't worth it. B A M A ran a test to see the difference between adyno tune and their mail order tune and only found a 5rwhp difference which most people won't even feel. And for the price $75, I can't beat that. Why would I waste the extra $125 in cash and $3 in cash for 5rwhp. I'll definitly think about it though. Not tuning till january or february. Thanx for the help!1 ?, u no ur posting in the Aluminum DSthread, not the N/A way thread? What mods r u running? r u from/living inLong Island?Thanxfor the help!

I just had my shaftmaster installed. I went the wimpp way and had my mechanic do it he charged 60 bucks and it was done in 15 minutes. No looking for extra jacks and getting under the car.
OK, now I am not feeling the difference .What am I looking for preformance wise?I didn't want to get on it hard since I'm sure the shaft needs a few miles to seat in. Thanks

Get on it hard and u'll feel the difference. They don't need to bebrokenin.Especially at speeds 40-50mph+ u'll see the difference. Also, reving is a lot quicket now up and down. U'll see. Update after u've done this. And its not wimpy to have someone intall ur ds b/c if u effd it up at all, say goodbye to the transmission and hello happy money hungary mechanic. Good Luck!

ORIGINAL: SteelStang05

Get on it hard and u'll feel the difference. They don't need to bebrokenin.Especially at speeds 40-50mph+ u'll see the difference. Also, reving is a lot quicket now up and down. U'll see. Update after u've done this. And its not wimpy to have someone intall ur ds b/c if u effd it up at all, say goodbye to the transmission and hello happy money hungary mechanic. Good Luck!


Ok I will do that. Thanks

steelstang. I'd LOVE to see some proof that a canned tune is worth more than a dyno. You've already agreed that each individual engine responds differently to modifications, so why would a GENERIC tune be beneficial to a unique engine??? Take the car to a dyno, and they'll be able to fine tune the engine.. to say that is like saying oh, the carb came like this is in the box, so I don't need to adjust the idle. last i checked, lidio didn't send out generic tunes....

Oh damn, where did I say a canned tune was worth more than 'a dyno? If u can read, it says that "Why don't u like mail-order tunes? It's been proven that unless u do F/I,heads,intake manifolds, or cams that dyno tunes aren't worth it. B A M A ran a test to see the difference between adyno tune and their mail order tune and only found a 5rwhp difference which most people won't even feel. And for the price $75, I can't beat that. Why would I waste the extra $125 in cash and $3 in cash for 5rwhp." over the mail-order tune. Ok I forgot to add a little bit at the end. But do u no what a mail-order tune is? They take into account all the things ur car has(mods/bolt-ons), tires, and other things. And as B A M A stated, the only reason why there gains(mail order tunes)r 5rwhp less than a dyno's is because they can't see the cars A/F ratio ofthe carsto alter it for the extra 5rwhp gains. I didn't say at all that canned tunes were better. I said that mail-order tunes were almost as good. Hope this clears it up!

I just finished yesting the V6 version of the spydershaft aluminum driveshaft.
track results:
.28 second drop in e.t. same day track test no other changes made!
as far as horsepower goes we usually only see about 8-10 hp gain on the dyno. at the track or on the street it allows the engine to rev quickerwhich is why the e.t.'s are quicker.
pricing will be roughly the same as my current GT shafts and the V6 is a bolt in deal.
these shafts have been tested to 130+mph and 600+rwhp with slicks.
pm or email me for more details as they aren't on the site yet.

Has anybody just bought the Aluminum Ranger Driveshaft from Ford and had it shortened the specified 9 inches? I think the entire project would be about $300 ....

ORIGINAL: spyder7724

I just finished yesting the V6 version of the spydershaft aluminum driveshaft.
track results:
.28 second drop in e.t. same day track test no other changes made!
as far as horsepower goes we usually only see about 8-10 hp gain on the dyno. at the track or on the street it allows the engine to rev quickerwhich is why the e.t.'s are quicker.
pricing will be roughly the same as my current GT shafts and the V6 is a bolt in deal.
these shafts have been tested to 130+mph and 600+rwhp with slicks.
pm or email me for more details as they aren't on the site yet.


no other changes made to the car, just the driving. .2-.3 quicker 60' makes all the difference in the world.

thats what mine are. problem is ford doesn't have many and they are no longer available cheap at FRPP so you have to get them from dealers+ you need the bolts and flange. so by the time you purchase the shaft pay to have it modified and rebalanced then buy the new bolts and flange you are no where near $300.everybody knows i don't make much on these since i told evryone how to do it 2 years ago.