im at 83k miles on my 99 stang and i can smell some oil burnage goin on. saturday im not working so ill be getting my first oil change ever (16 yrs old). i want a high viscosity thicker oil so it will last longer but who should i take it to? it is going to be freezing cold with a chance of ice (wtf- its georgia) and i dont want to do it myself. quaker state? tires plus? wal-mart? what is the lowest i can pay to get it done (im a bargain shopper)? thanks.
COME ON do it your self, i would go with 5w-30, the problem with letting a place to do it is first of all you can do it it takes litarally 10-15 minutes of your time and second when you go to places like those they tend to use air guns when they put the oil drain plug back in and i know quite a few people who have had thier plugs stripped or have even ended up with a loose filter or something. YOU CAN DO IT
Posts: 1974
Joined: 8/23/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Changing viscoity on a motor with that many miles is asking for trouble. You can run the risk of damaging rings. I wouldn't recommend synthtic either. Synthetic has a tnedcy on high milage motors to leak and acutally cause more oil consumption.
But either way. If your a bargin shopper do it your self and learn a little bit more about your car.
I have and always will change my own oil. I will always work on my car if anything needs to be done. If it is out of my league it will go to some one I trust. But under no circumstance will some body I don't know and/or trust move my car yet alone take a wrench to it.
i helped my dad change the oil on his boat when winterizing it in sept. but i dont live with him and dont have anyone to walk me through how to do it on my car. i dont want to mess up anyhting- in my situation, it would be easier to get it done then to walk myself through it. i walked myself through everything else ive done and it takes 2x as long as it should for easy installs.
Do you have access to tools?If not ,go buy some.Don't get cheap import crap either,you will be dissapointed.If you have metric tools,go ahead and change your own oil.You will learn about your car and save a few $$$ in the process.The more you know about your car and can inteligently communicate to service people will save you much heartache in the future.You remember the TV commercial where the guy is stranded along the road and says to the tow truck drivers."I think there's something broken in there".Then they just smile.This happens everytime anyone goes into a service center.You will be sized up and judged by what you tell the service provider.If you can tell them the exact nature of the trouble and give them your intelligent ideas then they know they can't rape you.Otherwize,if you ever have to use the word"thingy"to describe car trouble,You can expect to get hammered.Brave the freezing cold wastelands of Georgia and venture out and change the oil.Warm the engine first so it will drain faster and have at it.
I would have to agree with Chopper, get some tools (some good ones, Craftsman, MAC, ect) jack up the car and take 20 min to change your oil. I have always done my own and always do it myself. I have known some friend that took it to thoes fast oil change places and gotten totally screwed over (drain plug stripped and then fell out of car, they use the same oil that came out of your car and just install a new filter, ect.) I would never trust anyone that is getting paid min. wage to cange my oil. It is very simple, i learned to do it when I was like 9 or 10 on my parents cars, it is a piece of cake and if this is your 1st tiem and it takes you 30-40 mins. so be it. you are better off learning and doing it your self. good luck
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Sold the 01GT and now Starting all over again, this time looking for a 89-93 GT to supercharge.
Screw that, go to jiffy lube. Sure there are horror stories, it's a large country with lots of mechanics. Jiffy lube will check all your fluid levels so you know if anything else is going on. Just be sure to say no to any extra work they offer to do beyond the oil and filter change. Hell, my jiffy lube even vacuums and does my windows.
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On order: Lowering springs, flowmaster, some badges.
all you need to do is warm the car up, do this by going to the store to get your oil filter and the oil that you need, look in the manuel and see how many qts of oil you will need with the filter change. then when you get home jack up the car take out the drain plug in the oil pan, wait till it is all empty, put plug back in (becarful not to tighten it too much, turn till stops then tap on handle a couple of times with your hand and that is good). no remove your oil filter, before installing the new one, take the rubber ring off the top and lube it with your new oil, replace the rubber ring, then ( this is something i always do, but you don't have to) carefully pour some oil into your new filter, it does not take much, pour some in then look in the hole and watch till it all goes into filter, then add some more, install new oil filter in place, hand tighten, you do not need to use a wrench for this, it should be only hand tight. then go to top of engine and add all the rest of the new oil. once all new oil is in start car and let idle for a min. or so, Thats all you are done, not take all the used oil and dispose of it (most places that sell oil with take the old oil and recycle it for ya. You have just dne your 1st oil change!!! easy huh? have fun!!!!
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Sold the 01GT and now Starting all over again, this time looking for a 89-93 GT to supercharge.
Posts: 1177
Joined: 7/21/2004 From: San Diego, CA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: SilverGTV8
Changing viscoity on a motor with that many miles is asking for trouble. You can run the risk of damaging rings. I wouldn't recommend synthtic either. Synthetic has a tnedcy on high milage motors to leak and acutally cause more oil consumption.
I though sythetic is suppose to be better for your engine. Why would it burn more oil using syntheitc?
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1998 GT 5-speed..........R.I.P. 14.20 @ 98.07 My video
if you really don't feel comfortable right now doing it yourself, just take it to the nearest Ford dealer and get them to change it. They usually have deals where they do it for around $20 bucks or so and you can be sure it will done correctly too as dealerships have to maintain their reputation for good service work and they don't have high school dropouts doing service work for them like some of the quick change places do either.
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retired and drag racing all I can now that I have the time! 13.533 @ 96.24 mph w/1.780 60', ALL THROTTLE, NO BOTTLE! 13.557 @ 98.24 mph most recentl
Take it to Jiffy Lube or another national quick oil change shop. Don't forget you also get additional perks with shops like Jiffy Lube: 1) they have all varieties of oil viscosities and specialty oils like synthetic, semi-sythetic and high-mileage oils for you to choose from; my locale JL even carries Mobile 1 (I suggest either 10w30 semi-synthetic or high-mileage), 2) they thoroughly check your suspension and seals under your car for leaks and tighten if necessary as well as lube your chassis if applicable (also true of water & tranny lines under your hood), 3) they set your tire pressure all the way around to proper specs so you don't wear your tires down prematurely, 4) they top off your windshield washer fluid and radiator coolant in your overflow tank (if you are very low on coolant you may have to pay a small upcharge for a gallon of antifreeze but, so what, it's done and full - they also check your coolant that it protects your engine down to the proper below zero level), AND, which I think pays for itself over and over, 5) you can go into any Jiffy Lube at 500 mile intervals and they will completely "top-off" your fluids (oil, washer & coolant) at NO CHARGE! What the f@#*, how can you possibly beat that? They also do transmission flushes (complete including torque converters with AOD's), radiator flushes, change serpentine belts, state inspections, fuel injector cleaning, etc. Plus, you don't have to accumulate all that spent oil only to haul it off later for disposal. ALL IN 10 TO 15 MINUTES!! Come on, why be hassled unnecessarily. Take your car in.
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'98 Mustang GT- Triple Black Convertible Gold Pony Graphics w/Gold Nose Pony Steeda Sport Springs, 3.73 Gears Tokico Struts & Shocks w/KYB Quads Magnaflow Catback, March Under Pulleys AF Plenum w/FR 70mm TB, BBK CAI EBC Rotors & Green "Snot
I suppose I should explain the Royal Purple in my '98 GT. Another good shop to take your car for oil is Pep Boys, providing you have one near you. For $15 they will put in any oil and filter you buy at their warehouse. I always choose Mobile 1 or Royal Purple (only $1 more than Mobile 1 per quart at PP) and a high-volume, micro-fine filter such as Purolator's top of the line blue filter (rate #1 for "continued" oil passage, not just single pass as other filters are rated and made for synthetic use). You go to the service counter, tell them what you want or bring the products to the counter with you. Simple as that. This way you know you are getting all premium parts for sure. Only draw back there is you have to wait your turn for service unlike the in/out drive throughs of the Jiffy Lube type oil shops. Take your pick. I do both from time to time. Have at it.
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'98 Mustang GT- Triple Black Convertible Gold Pony Graphics w/Gold Nose Pony Steeda Sport Springs, 3.73 Gears Tokico Struts & Shocks w/KYB Quads Magnaflow Catback, March Under Pulleys AF Plenum w/FR 70mm TB, BBK CAI EBC Rotors & Green "Snot
Thought about it, but then just thought to myself this can't be true. Oh-well maybe he bought the car used with 80,000 miles or 70, or 60, or O-lord thats a tuff little engine then. Oh and ATLANTICBLUE99, make sure you change the filter everytime you change your oil, i noticed you said you changed the filter this time because you didn't know when the last time the filter had been changed.
98stngfk, what is the best oil for high mile cars, say 88k when i do my next oil change? and change the filter every time? go with the motorcraft, fram, or what filter as well?