i have an 07 gt and in june i bought the whipple non-intercooled system from cj pony parts and had them install it....a week later the serpintine belt snapped ripping the hood liner all up....a week and a half later they had it fixed with a different idler pully....but it squealled horribly everytime i started it.... so i took it back yet again and had the original idle pully put back on and two days later the belt snapped again.....both breaks occured at a shift.. so they came and picked it up again.....this is the third time it has been back to the shop....its been a week and a half and my car isn't fixed yet....i am very un satisfied with this system and the service that i have recieved[:@]

shoulda got a turbo :D

hope you get it figured out

hang in there, everything is gonna be fine...

now, it sounds like an alignment issue with the belt. you
may need to have CJ get with whipple, to install
a shim behind the s/c pulley. this will bring the pulley
out a tiny bit towards the front of the car.

good luck and please keep us updated, those of us
with the whipples would be interested in how you get
your issue resolved.

no its not the allignment they said something about the tensioner was not set right??? i'm very pissed .... the service i'm getting sucks i'm on the phone everyday trying to get my car fixed i'm about ready to tell them to take it off and give me my money back cuz i didnt pay them 5500 bucks for my car to break every week .. and they're not even compensating me in any way for all this crap i've been put through..

i do hope your problem gets solved.

this is why i spent 8 days doing it myself, if
it was gonna give me grief, i wanted it to be because
of me

well aparently art whipple was rushed to the hospital wednesday night and he was the one handling this whole thing and thats why they cant get it done today and bill at cj's said he's gonna try a belt from napa which i dont think is a good idea but o well......cuz if i have one more problem after this its coming off

there is always the option to go back to
stock (hopefully someone saved all the parts)

there is another option along with the shim, it's an
8 rib system.....

yea i have all the parts...what is the 8 rib system , just an 8 rib belt and pullies?

yeah pretty much.....i never really researched it, i just
know it exists from reading other message boards

if it get's to that, i can help ya find the guy who sells
them.....whipple may even sell the kit now, not sure

what belt r u using. by that i mean brand.make sure the pullies are alligned, and go to ford and buy F7UZ-8509-AA . its a bigge w/p pulley, it will help the belt wrap the s/c a bit better

the instructions say to remove the hood liner. That's odd that it would break the belts like that. I wonder if they are making it too tight? It has a slider pulley that you can adjust.

Here's the instructions for installing the belt.


Install the supplied 6-rib belt. With the spring loaded tensioner in its max open position, adjust the sliding idler down as far as possible. Torque this bolt to 35 ft/lbs. (3/4" socket) and then release the spring loaded tensioner.
Now i'm no professional mechanic, but either you have to much tension on the belt or your belts are defective. If it were an alignment problem you should see some signs of belt shreading/fraying. by your description it sounds like it's just snapping clean. If it were me i'd back that slider pulley off a little and tighten it to spec, this might cause some slippage under boost though.

This is either an alignment problem, atension problem, or an alternator bolt problem. Assuming all your bearings are spinning free, nothing else will cause this. Use a 2-4 ft level and or a plumb bob to check alignment. For tension, sometimes the stop on the tensioner must be ground off to allow enough travel. Lastly, make sure the belt is nowhere near contact with any of the bolts in it's path, esp. the alt. bolts.

ORIGINAL: drbobvs

This is either an alignment problem, atension problem, or an alternator bolt problem. Assuming all your bearings are spinning free, nothing else will cause this. Use a 2-4 ft level and or a plumb bob to check alignment. For tension, sometimes the stop on the tensioner must be ground off to allow enough travel. Lastly, make sure the belt is nowhere near contact with any of the bolts in it's path, esp. the alt. bolts.


Yep! Grinding off the stop on the stock tensioner is part of the instructions. I'd check that for sure.

Post a picture of the belt.

it happens man. I've broken about 7-10 belts with my blower system.

Use GATES belts or supplied Whipple Belts (as long as they arent gatorbacks)

tell them to put the pulley on that squeeled (sp). add some WD-40...if it goes away order a new belt and DIY.

Yeah, but this guys only running a 6psi pulley, he shouldn't be breaking belts like that.


ORIGINAL: TRYMY4.0

it happens man. I've broken about 7-10 belts with my blower system.

Use GATES belts or supplied Whipple Belts (as long as they arent gatorbacks)

tell them to put the pulley on that squeeled (sp). add some WD-40...if it goes away order a new belt and DIY.

That sucks i don't live far from them and was going to take it there to have them install my whipple when i decide to have it done, hope everything gets worked out for you.

well after it snapped after the first week they installed a larger idler pully off of the h.o. kit whipple said it was better for the belt...but like i sais.. it squealed like crazy and i drove it three weeks like that cuz they said the squealing would stop but it didnt..... this was the longest i drove without snapping a belt....so i dont think it is an alignment issue but i could be wrong and i didnt get any picks of the belt, cj's took pics of it and sent them to whipple both times and both belts were directly from whipple they are made by DAYCO speacially for these kits, or thats what whipple told cj's

A couple of people on this forum have had similiar issues with the Saleen SC and they went back to the stock idler pulley and tension pulley plus this pulley from ford for the water pump F7UZ-8509-AA I don't know if it will fix your problem but for $23 it may be worth trying.

i havent heard of anyone running the h.o. kit throwing belts...... so they should just upgrade me haha or at least give me a good deal on the upgrade
that might fix my problem

How much did they charge you to install it if you don't mind me asking?

it was like 900 bucks but it would be more if your getting the h.o. kit

I've heard of some Saleen supercharger owners going through belts due to a flange of steel that needs to be filed down. Theflange rubs the inside of the belt until it finally gives.If my memory serves me correct, Ithink the defect/flangeisbelow and to the rightof thesupercharger pulley......aroundwhere the valve cover meets the head.

It's not a defect, it's a piece of the valve cover that is used to hold a wiring harness. I'm pretty sure the paxton/vortech instructions say to grind it off, not sure if saleen's do or not. It shouldn't affect the whipple though.


ORIGINAL: mills281e

I've heard of some Saleen supercharger owners going through belts due to a flange of steel that needs to be filed down. Theflange rubs the inside of the belt until it finally gives.If my memory serves me correct, Ithink the defect/flangeisbelow and to the rightof thesupercharger pulley......aroundwhere the valve cover meets the head.

I've never had a problem with the belt on my Saleen blower.

Be sure they removed the stop on the stock tensioner. I'm not sure how it would effect the belt.

http://www.pbase.com/image/84094434.jpg

ORIGINAL: fadetoblack172

well after it snapped after the first week they installed a larger idler pully off of the h.o. kit whipple said it was better for the belt...but like i sais.. it squealed like crazy and i drove it three weeks like that cuz they said the squealing would stop but it didnt..... this was the longest i drove without snapping a belt....so i dont think it is an alignment issue but i could be wrong and i didnt get any picks of the belt, cj's took pics of it and sent them to whipple both times and both belts were directly from whipple they are made by DAYCO speacially for these kits, or thats what whipple told cj's

now if they didnt grind this tensioner stop off, why did the car run fine with the bigger idle pully? when it was on i checked the belt after every drive and it showed no sign of wear or tear

I would be chapped...[:@][:@][:@]

I don't know, i'm just looking for things they might have missed that would affect the belt.


ORIGINAL: fadetoblack172

now if they didnt grind this tensioner stop off, why did the car run fine with the bigger idle pully? when it was on i checked the belt after every drive and it showed no sign of wear or tear

when yo snap the belts are you driving straight. i do ask that for a reason. also if the set up was squeking with the after market idler, chances are its was not aliigned. one last thing. r u using the correct size belt.you might want to try a little biiger size belf.

as for the grididng of the pulley tensioner. they recommend that becasuse twin screw blowers use a cerpentine belt obviously. when you turn really hard, like tying to fish tail etc etc, the power stering pup and all that stuff will put so much strain on the belt, it will snap it. if you ging the stopper down then the tensioner can move further to give the belt slack and prevent the belt from snapping. i heard many people having this issue with whipples. if all else fails i say try a little bit bigger if a belt

yes i am driving straight both snaps were on a 3rd to 4th gear shift. and yes both belts were the correct belts it is a special belt made special for the whipple kit. and as of today my car has been broke for 2 weeks and it still is not fixed and i dont know when it will be fixed... i was supposed to get a call back from cj's friday night or saturday but...... no one called me back... suprise suprise....[:@]

by the way i do appreciate all you guys help/input about my problem

do you know the belt size. that would be helpful. get that please. do you have the belts or did you get a good look at them. were they shiny looking or did they have a grove showing any signs of ripping or did they just break

the numbers on the belt were 1247KG 20-9770 they both were the same belt made by DAYCO no i dont have either of the belts they were sent to whipple the first belt was shiny and was very sticky after a hard drive which i knew was bad, but the second belt was not shiny and didnt show any signs of wear up to the point it snapped

your a fallen soldier and we're just tryin' to
get you back on your feet




ORIGINAL: fadetoblack172

by the way i do appreciate all you guys help/input about my problem

yea a pissed off one too....

Loosen up the bolts that hold the blower/intake down and move it forward as much as possible. That'll cure the alignment issue. The other thing to do is change one of the idlers to a different size so you can run a 123.4" belt that is available from most auto parts stores. that will make the cost of belts cheaper, and also call whipple, sounds like you need a spacer

Because of the noise you reported, I am more inclined to think you have a problem with the tensioner which ismaking the belt slip, and in consequence accelearating belt wear leading to failure.I assume all of the pulleys move freely and have no dents.
Missalignmnet can cause beltshredding but the noise it makes isdifferent to the one caused byslippage.

do you have a boost gauge?

no i dont have a boost gauge i wanna get one just dont have the $ i called today my car is done i'm goin to pick it up now..

GL on the way home;)

I think your problem is in the bypass valve....When you shift after being on boost the presure has to be let out by a valve on the back of the SC. If the valve is not working the presure will be very high in the SC and cause a sudden high load on the belt...Just a thought...Instructions to check the valve are in the last pages of the SC install.

ORIGINAL: Turbosetch

I think your problem is in the bypass valve....When you shift after being on boost the presure has to be let out by a valve on the back of the SC. If the valve is not working the presure will be very high in the SC and cause a sudden high load on the belt...Just a thought...Instructions to check the valve are in the last pages of the SC install.


If you are sure the alignment is right and there is nothing interfering with the belt this could very well be your problem. You should definitaly check it out, especially since it`s breaking under load and on your shift from 3 to 4. Normally the 3 to 4 shift is under full load anyway. Any more on the belt may be the straw that broke the camel`s back.

Turbosetch, that`s a great call. May or may not be the problem, but it`s got to be something.

Eric

well the stang is back home safe and sound and is runnin like a champ:Di checked the belt right after i turned it off and it looks fine they replaced the hood liner and fixed the knock sensor so i'm satisfied now

why did they replace the knock sensor, and i hope the promblem is fixed

ORIGINAL: fadetoblack172

well the stang is back home safe and sound and is runnin like a champ:Di checked the belt right after i turned it off and it looks fine they replaced the hood liner and fixed the knock sensor so i'm satisfied now


So what was the problem and what was wrong with your knock sensor?

They replaced the hood liner? Whipple says in their instructions that the pulley can rub on the hood liner and recommend removing it. Not sure why they would replace it

when the belt snapped this past time it ripped up the hood liner and ripped off a knock sensor so they replaced both

This may or may not be a problem with your whipple, but I heard that whipple had several batches (if that is correct) of SC leave the factory with the snot being about a 10th of an inch off center (if that makes sense) you may want to check and make sure that the snot is straight.

ORIGINAL: fadetoblack172

when the belt snapped this past time it ripped up the hood liner and ripped off a knock sensor so they replaced both


Couldn't have been a knock sensor. Those are under the intake manifold bolted right to the heads.

It was probably one of these resistors:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa217/doctorstrobe/Resistor.jpg

really? thats what is was then

I don't understand your question, but I think it may have been a couple of months, but if you brought the whipple from a reseller, who knows how long it has been sitting. Dude you need to call whipple.

I'm not sure what question you are responding too, but I assure you no one has whipples sitting on the shelf. That's because no one stocks these things. It's much easier and cheaper to drop ship them. How would you like to have 30K tied up in 5 whipple superchargers sitting in your warehouse? When they were first released they were building them ahead of time, but now they are all built to order.

ORIGINAL: sactown

I don't understand your question, but I think it may have been a couple of months, but if you brought the whipple from a reseller, who knows how long it has been sitting. Dude you need to call whipple.

fadetoblack172 (http://www.mustangforums.com/showProfile.asp?memid=66029)
Well now that there seems to be some resolution, what do you think of the non-int Whipple. Hows the drive compared to stock? Driveability problems (besides belt;))? Satisfied with the power increase for the $?

Also is it hot and humid where you live right now? Alot of people are saying that the non-int kits wont run well in high temps?

This S/C is on my short list of what I am looking to install so I am very interested.

Thanks and glad to here you have the car back, I hope everything is fixed now.

ORIGINAL: fadetoblack172

when the belt snapped this past time it ripped up the hood liner and ripped off a knock sensor so they replaced both


As doctorstrobe pointed out there is no way for a belt to reach the knock sensors. I'd think the installer made a mistake, fixed it, but dont want to accept it was their fault. At any rate I am glad your problem is fixed one way or the other. You'll be very happy with your S/C

oh i love the power increase...i wasnt very satisfied with stock cuz i had an 05 srt-4 with lets say ALOT of bolt ons and i wasted a few new gt's on the highway with that car before it blew up haha but i do love the power... i wanted the h.o. kit but didnt quite have enough money for that kit, and i can always upgrade i looked into it and its like 1800 1900 bucks to upgrade which i may do.....i haven't decided what to do next

Glad everything is ok. But still when i decide to supercharge i'm gonna look around for some other places(maybe Evolution but they are like 2 1/2 hours from me) or maybe tackle it myself before going to CJ's since that was the place i was thinking about originally and now hearing your problems with the same system i wanted to get irks me a bit[:@]

I was at Evolution today asking about adding a SC. I went in wanting a KB or HO whipple, apparently they are crap according to Evo. They want me to pay $9300 for a saleen (installed and tuned). That sounds high to me. I was thinking about trying CJ despite the drive. Now I'm thinking Stock might be the answer. Sigh.

$9300!!!! I'm calling BS! I want to hear evolution performances response to this post.

If you're in Delaware why not go to JDM in NJ?

ORIGINAL: anothernoob

I was at Evolution today asking about adding a SC. I went in wanting a KB or HO whipple, apparently they are crap according to Evo. They want me to pay $9300 for a saleen (installed and tuned). That sounds high to me. I was thinking about trying CJ despite the drive. Now I'm thinking Stock might be the answer. Sigh.

I have an email with that price on it. Went in there today at lunch and got the same story. Just got an email from Jim Bell answering things I was told about kenne bell sc at the evo counter today. Where is JDM? Whats the full name for my /search?

where's fan boy :) getting the popcorn ready :D

let 'er rip killer ;):)[8D]

Not sure why anyone would be interested, (unless there is someone as uncertain about what to add to their vehicle as I am), but to be clear and show that I'm honest I could post the email threads.

Warning! Drama Content!

First email:


To: webmaster@evoperform.com [/align]
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 7:40 PM[/align]
Subject: 2006 Mustang GT[/align]
[/align]Hi,

I have an everyday drive 2006 Mustang GT with manual transmission and no mods. I would like to add some horsepower but really really really don’t want to blow it up. I’ve been looking around the internet at various superchargers (mostly inter-cooled low boost roots style like roush, saleen and steeda) and waffling over whether I should just get a CAI with a good tuner and forget the supercharger. From the few forums I have found it seems that the general consensus is that I need to stay at or below 400 rwhp or I would need to start changing out engine parts like pistons/rods etc. What I need is some advice/recommendations on good options based on experience, costs and a shop that can do the work (I’m nearby in Delaware). My work email is the best way to get in touch xxxxxxxxxxxxx but my cell is xxxxxxxxxxxx

Thanks for the help,


1st reply

From: Fred Cook [mailto:webmaster@evoperform.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 7:27 AM
To: xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 2006 Mustang GT
Importance: High


I would give us a call and setup a time you can come in and we can go over some options. The first thing I would do is establish a budget.[/align]
[/align]
Fred Cook
Evolution Performance, Inc.
3606 Market St.
Aston, PA 19014
610-485-3596
www.evoperform.com (http://www.evoperform.com/)[/align]

Next email


Hi Fred,

As far as natural aspirated options the Steeda Power Kit (part 555-2410) seems to have everything including: high flow CAI with SCT X2 tuner, under drive pulleys, a charge motion plate delete, 4.10:1 rear axle gears (with an installation kit) and axle back exhaust. They list it for $1800. I’d be interested in your opinion and your cost for purchase and installation. I’m guessing I’d get something like 65 hp out of it (which would put me about 335 at the wheels?). Dou you run vehicles on your dyno after mods?

As for the forced air option Kenne Bell lists a TS1000-05-int kit at $5700 (it’s a dual screw 8-13 psi inter cooled sc). What would be the installed cost with you guys doing the work? I would want it at the max pulley size (minimum boost). Any thoughts on the super charger option?

Thanks,


Got no email reply so I called and was told some stuff about kenne bell and whipple and that saleen was the way to go, but that their kit was crap and had to be replaced so I followed up with an email asking for the price.



To: webmaster@evoperform.com
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:36 PM
Subject: supercharger

Hello,

I'm looking into getting a supercharger for my 2006 mustang GT (manual, currently no mods). I'd like a price on purchase and installation for the saleen supercharger we talked about on the phone.

Thanks,



and this is what they sent back


From: Fred Cook [mailto:webmaster@evoperform.com (webmaster@evoperform.com)]
Sent: Tue 8/21/2007 8:35 AM
To: Barker,Robert
Subject: Re: supercharger

$5,100.00 - Saleen Supercharger
$400.00 - Injectors
$250.00 - Lowered Motor Mounts
$125.00 - Plugs
$175.00 - 3.4" Pulley
$275.00 - BAP Installed
$175.00 - Mafia
$275.00 - CNL Racer
$1500.00 - Labor
$25.00 - Coolant
$400.00 - SCT Xcalibrator 2
$600.00 - Custom Dyno Tune

$9,300.00

Fred Cook
Evolution Performance, Inc.
3606 Market St.
Aston, PA 19014
610-485-3596
www.evoperform.com (http://www.mustangforums.com/www.evoperform.com) <http://www.evoperform.com (http://www.evoperform.com/)>


went in today and got another lesson on kenne bell and whipple problems and why this is what I should buy.


Hopefully I didn't violate any board policies or boor you to death.


So where is JDM?

the prices are a little on the high side.....

shop around, you can probably find a better package elsewhere

I cant tell you where jdm is, but i can tell you the absoloutely know their stuff when it comes to saleens. As far as i know they are the best around at installing/tuning saleen s/c and many many people use their custom internet tunes for their saleen applications too. search for team jdm in google should be the first that comes up.

Thanks. It looks like its in Freehold, NJ. I was really after the Kenne Bell (the technical stuff on theirsite is great)or (possibly an intercooled whipple). Since I hijacked this thread already can I trouble you for advice on them? I'm pretty sure I want a SAFE tune with an intercooler and a twin screw. I definately don't want to make boom-boom with the engine.

i recommend the kenne bell big bore, i have
never heard a negative word from an owner/operator.




ORIGINAL: anothernoob

Thanks. It looks like its in Freehold, NJ. I was really after the Kenne Bell (the technical stuff on theirsite is great)or (possibly an intercooled whipple). Since I hijacked this thread already can I trouble you for advice on them? I'm pretty sure I want a SAFE tune with an intercooler and a twin screw. I definately don't want to make boom-boom with the engine.

JDM can tune Whipple too. They did the one in this months MM&FF.

they can tune down the kenne bell. Just ask them, and tell them it's a daily driver

ORIGINAL: anothernoob

Not sure why anyone would be interested, (unless there is someone as uncertain about what to add to their vehicle as I am), but to be clear and show that I'm honest I could post the email threads.

Warning! Drama Content!



Well I must say they are out of their minds. Buy a stage 2 kit from brenspeed.com for $5600 and find a shop to install it. Hell, take it to Evo and have them install it!:D

They are charging you for some things that should be included in the kit. I appologize for doubting you, but with 1 post it's hard not to.