Hi, I am a new owner of a 2005 Mustang V6, bought it with 18k miles and since I didn't know
much about the history of maintenance I decided to change all the fluids and filters. So, today
it was the fuel filter. This is a VERY simple job that anyone that knows "lefty loosey, righty tighty" can accomplish. I included some pics.

1. remove the fuel pump fuse which is under the hood, in the fuse box on the passenger side, it is the fuse that is numbered 21 (page 165 in your owners manual)

1a. Turn the ignition and try to start the car, it shouldn't. Removing the fuse and trying to start will use up the gasoline that is
in the fuel line and because the fuel pump fuse is removed, no more gasoline will be introduced into the fuel line you are
going to be separating. This step makes it so when you do remove the fuel filter there will be very little gasoline left in the
fuel line (less of a mess).
2. disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. raise up car in the front or if using car jack that came with the car, lift up the front drivers side.

4. I used a floor jack, placed it at the front location where the regular jack goes, use jackstands too.

5. the fuel filter is located under the drivers seat, under the car, hidden by a large black cover that is held on by push pins and several 10mm nuts.

6. I did not remove the entire panel, only removing 3 10mm nuts and one push pin, allowing the cover to hang down out of the way.

7. Fuel filter is secured by a black rubber mount that is held on by a 10mm nut, remove this nut
thus allowing the rubber mount to be rotated, this makes it easier to slide out fuel filter.

8. The fuel filter itself is held onto the fuel lines on each side by fittings that have a green button on each side. Simply press the green button in (I used a screwdriver tip) and pull the filter off of the fuel line. Do this to both sides and the filter can now be slipped out of the rubber mount.

9. Make sure you install the new fuel
filter with the black arrow pointing toward the engine. Again press the green buttons on each
side of the fuel line, slide the connector over the new fuel filter and you will feel it click, pull
the filter and the fuel line in different directions (as to pull apart) to ensure that indeed they
are connected and the seal is good. Join the other side of the fuel filter to the other end of the fuel line, again feeling the click and pulling apart to ensure they are connected.

10. if you rotated the rubber mount holding on the fuel filter, rotate it back into place and secure with a 10mm bolt.

11. replace fuel pump fuse in position 21, reconnect negative battery cable.

12. turn the key in the ignition to on" do not engage the starter, it will sound different as the fuel
pump fills the fuel filter with fuel. Do this on/off cycle until you no longer hear the fuel pump
making a "priming noise" It took 3-4 times for mine to sound normal.

13. lower the car and start, let it run a few minutes, check for leaks. If none are found, reinstall
the fasteners that you removed and be happy that you did this yourself and saved
yourself some $. I will try to upload pics to clarify any confusing parts.

Note, when I removed my old fuel filter, I attempted to blow through it, it wasn't easy, I felt very little air coming out of the other side, of course it was wet with fuel but it was very clear that these filters should be changed as stated in the owners manual, every 15k miles. Also the car "feels" quicker, with less throttle lag.


I have more pictures if needed, just let me know I would be glad to email them to you.

local://upfiles/77137/7166CB8262DC4E25994CB4663FB4CB24.jpg

local://upfiles/77137/0497F0543DF24352BC65B1EB477EA6C8.jpg

local://upfiles/77137/CA7B4F1C43424395861356816A519E03.jpg

Nice ill be doing this soon cause im just insane when it comes to any little thing that may be robbing power from my engine. Can u make the text a little bigger and space the steps out...kinda hurts my already bad eyes reading it. Get those pics!

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

Hi, I am a new owner of a 2005 Mustang V6, bought it with 18k miles and since I didn't know
much about the history of maintenance I decided to change all the fluids and filters. So, today
it was the fuel filter. This is a VERY simple job that anyone that knows "lefty loosey, righty tighty" can
accomplish. I included some pics.
1. remove the fuel pump fuse which is under the hood, in the fuse box on the passenger side, it is the fuse
that is numbered 21 (page 165 in your owners manual)
2. disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. raise up car in the front or if using car jack that came with the car, lift up the front drivers side.
4. I used a floor jack, placed it at the front location where the regular jack goes, use jackstands too.
5. the fuel filter is located under the drivers seat, under the car, hidden by a large black cover that is
held on by push pins and several 10mm nuts.
6. I did not remove the entire panel, only removing 3 10mm nuts and one push pin, allowing the
cover to hang down out of the way.
7. Fuel filter is secured by a black rubber mount that is held on by a 10mm nut, remove this nut
thus allowing the rubber mount to be rotated, this makes it easier to slide out fuel filter.
8. The fuel filter itself is held onto the fuel lines on each side by fittings that have a green button on
each side. Simply press the green button in (I used a screwdriver tip) and pull the filter off of
the fuel line. Do this to both sides and the filter can now be slipped out of the rubber mount.
9. I put a light coat of fresh oil on each end of the new filter, make sure you install the new fuel
filter with the black arrow pointing toward the engine. Again press the green buttons on each
side of the fuel line, slide the connector over the new fuel filter and you will feel it click, pull
the filter and the fuel line in different directions (as to pull apart) to ensure that indeed they
are connected and the seal is good. Join the other side of the fuel filter to the other end of the
fuel line, again feeling the click and pulling apart to ensure they are connected.
10. if you rotated the rubber mount holding on the fuel filter, rotate it back into place and secure
with a 10mm bolt.
11. replace fuel pump fuse in position 21, reconnect negative battery cable.
12. turn the key in the ignition to on" do not engage the starter, it will sound different as the fuel
pump fills the fuel filter with fuel. Do this on/off cycle until you no longer hear the fuel pump
making a "priming noise" It took 3-4 times for mine to sound normal.
13. lower the car and start, let it run a few minutes, check for leaks. If none are found, reinstall
the fasteners that you removed and be happy that you did this yourself and saved
yourself some $. I will try to upload pics to clarify any confusing parts.

Note, when I removed my old fuel filter, I attempted to blow through it, it wasn't easy, I felt very little
air coming out of the other side, of course it was wet with fuel but it was very clear that these filters
should be changed as stated in the owners manual, every 15k miles. Also the car "feels" quicker, with
less throttle lag.





Everything looks good, but I wouldn't put oil near the fuel lines or on the fuel lines. You could contaminate your fuel.

A few other points to mention. I did not get a lot of fuel coming out from the fuel lines,
it was not under pressure, I would say about 4 ounces of fuel came out. Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference. I agree with Derf00 do not get oil near the ends of the fuel filter, omit that step if you wish, I did it only near the base of the filter as I had read to do so in an old publication, of which I cannot find now. Total cost, below $20. Total time, under 30 minutes. Lastly, yes, that is my 3 year old "helper" in one of the pics, she increased the time by 10 minutes:)

so you can imagine how much better a 2003 ran after changing the fuel filter for the first time at 65k
ORIGINAL: NickSezz

Nice ill be doing this soon cause im just insane when it comes to any little thing that may be robbing power from my engine. Can u make the text a little bigger and space the steps out...kinda hurts my already bad eyes reading it. Get those pics!

Thanks for sharring! I'm glad that I dont have to go out and buy the fuel filter removal tool. and now i can just use a screw driver

Yeah, when I called ford about the part they asked me if I had the "Removal Tool."

Yeah, its called a socket wrench.

12. turn the key in the ignition to on" do not engage the starter, it will sound different as the fuel
pump fills the fuel filter with fuel. Do this on/off cycle until you no longer hear the fuel pump
making a "priming noise" It took 3-4 times for mine to sound normal.

[sm=Flahssssss.gif]How important is this step 12? When I changed my fuel filter, I just turned the key to prime and start. I am having some issues with the engine comimg close to stalling sometimes and the wrench light coming on. Thanks for your excellent information.

omitting step number 12 would not be the cause of your near stalling, I do this step simply to get fuel back in the fuel lines, to the engine so that it will start, you could not do this step and it would only require you to stay on the starter for a longer period (until fuel gets from the tank to the engine, through your new (dry) fuel filter. I did it this way so as to not put strain on the fuel pump.

Very nice write-up. A_sixer(Tino) made this cool How-To video, which I also found helpful

http://media.putfile.com/Mustang-40-Fuel-Filter-Change

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

A few other points to mention.Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference.

Thats not a FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH, ITS A FUEL SHUT-OFF RESET SWITCH.
Read your owners manual (again).
And oil on the buna o-rings, no thanks.
It will cause them to fail and gas will be
pumped out everywhere under pressure.
Workshop manual states to be sure and not
contaminate the seals with anything before
seating them. Looks like you will be needing
to do this over and with new o-rings to boot
or have the ever fear of the o-ring degrading
from contamination and blowing out.[:@]
Good effort, though. Just not the proper
procedure for fuel filter replacement.

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

A few other points to mention. I did not get a lot of fuel coming out from the fuel lines,
it was not under pressure, I would say about 4 ounces of fuel came out. Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference. I agree with Derf00 do not get oil near the ends of the fuel filter, omit that step if you wish, I did it only near the base of the filter as I had read to do so in an old publication, of which I cannot find now. Total cost, below $20. Total time, under 30 minutes. Lastly, yes, that is my 3 year old "helper" in one of the pics, she increased the time by 10 minutes:)


The helper needs to be away from the lifted vehicle and gas and such.
Where is your brain, in your pants? Kids + workshop = trouble.

I just didthis today 23k miles. Have noticed a big difference as it is easier to start in first gear... dont have to give it so much gas. i thinks the filter was pretty plugged.

I did not bother to jack the car up, it was easy enough to just reach under the car and do the whole process minus oiling the adapters. I could not get the angle to use the screwdriver to undo the green tabs, but you can easily do it with your thumbnail.

ORIGINAL: 157db

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

A few other points to mention.Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference.

Thats not a FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH, ITS A FUEL SHUT-OFF RESET SWITCH.
Read your owners manual (again).
And oil on the buna o-rings, no thanks.
It will cause them to fail and gas will be
pumped out everywhere under pressure.
Workshop manual states to be sure and not
contaminate the seals with anything before
seating them. Looks like you will be needing
to do this over and with new o-rings to boot
or have the ever fear of the o-ring degrading
from contamination and blowing out.[:@]
Good effort, though. Just not the proper
procedure for fuel filter replacement.


The switch can also be used to shut off the fuel. If you want to depressurize the fuel lines before changing the filter (i.e. the correct way) then you need to start the car, trip the shut-off switch, and let the car run until it dies. Then go about changing the filter, then reset the switch and restart the car. It may take a couple tries to restart; this is normal as there is no fuel in the lines.

ORIGINAL: 157db

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

A few other points to mention. I did not get a lot of fuel coming out from the fuel lines,
it was not under pressure, I would say about 4 ounces of fuel came out. Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference. I agree with Derf00 do not get oil near the ends of the fuel filter, omit that step if you wish, I did it only near the base of the filter as I had read to do so in an old publication, of which I cannot find now. Total cost, below $20. Total time, under 30 minutes. Lastly, yes, that is my 3 year old "helper" in one of the pics, she increased the time by 10 minutes:)


The helper needs to be away from the lifted vehicle and gas and such.
Where is your brain, in your pants? Kids + workshop = trouble.



Lighten up Frances....the car was safely on all four tires when the last pic was taken. Point taken on the
oil/contamination, I will not have issues or have to replace anything prematurely. As for where my brain was, I figured I didn't need it, I could just ask you since you already know everything.

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

ORIGINAL: 157db

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

A few other points to mention. I did not get a lot of fuel coming out from the fuel lines,
it was not under pressure, I would say about 4 ounces of fuel came out. Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference. I agree with Derf00 do not get oil near the ends of the fuel filter, omit that step if you wish, I did it only near the base of the filter as I had read to do so in an old publication, of which I cannot find now. Total cost, below $20. Total time, under 30 minutes. Lastly, yes, that is my 3 year old "helper" in one of the pics, she increased the time by 10 minutes:)


The helper needs to be away from the lifted vehicle and gas and such.
Where is your brain, in your pants? Kids + workshop = trouble.



Lighten up Frances....the car was safely on all four tires when the last pic was taken. Point taken on the
oil/contamination, I will not have issues or have to replace anything prematurely. As for where my brain was, I figured I didn't need it, I could just ask you since you already know everything.








Best to go on and forget it. We get that from him quite often.[:'(]

Unfortunately, I didn't know about changing the fuel filter at 15K [:@]

I'm at 54K right now...I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend! [:-]

It really is a very easy job and it doesn't take long at all. I would omit the oil step, as it is contraindicated, you may be suprised at how much better your stang seems to run afterwards! Have fun.

where can i buy a quality fuel filter online?

Kragen at www.partsamerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com) for like $15. Not sure of the quality, they only offer two different ones.

Scratch that! Just bought a STP fuel filter from AutoZone...$9 :D

Had to order it though but it only takes a day!

1) dont you want the car running when you take the fuse out?
2) do you really have to disconnect the battery cable?

changed mine today (just went over 20k mi), the first thing i noticed is my rpms before i changed it were 1300-1500 and after they were 9-1100. idles much smoother.

What is the purpose of removing the fuse?

Good question! I left out a step, after removing the fuel pump fuse and before disconnecting the battery, I turned the ignition as to start the car so that any fuel left in the fuel line would be used in an attempt to start the motor. The fuse is removed so that more fuel is not pulled from the tank. In my case, the engine did not turn over. When I finally removed the in line filter, there was very little gasoline in the line so it made very little mess. Sorry for leaving that part out, I will try to update my original post.

Thanks very much for this post, Fyrewalker! It has to be easier than changing the fuel filter in my '04.

by the way.. i didnt disconnect the neg battery cable. the hardest part of this for me was trying to find the fuel shutoff reset switch(i thought it would be on the passenger side for some reason)

mmm, after 45K, took mine to the dealer and changed out for $49.95 including tax w 30 min. wait. Good for another 40K or 1-1/2 years. Nice description on how to change with pic.

ORIGINAL: 157db

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

A few other points to mention.Some people mention pressing the fuel shut off button located on the drivers side footwell, I didn't feel the need, I cannot imagine it would have made a difference.

Thats not a FUEL SHUT-OFF SWITCH, ITS A FUEL SHUT-OFF RESET SWITCH.
Read your owners manual (again).
And oil on the buna o-rings, no thanks.
It will cause them to fail and gas will be
pumped out everywhere under pressure.
Workshop manual states to be sure and not
contaminate the seals with anything before
seating them. Looks like you will be needing
to do this over and with new o-rings to boot
or have the ever fear of the o-ring degrading
from contamination and blowing out.[:@]
Good effort, though. Just not the proper
procedure for fuel filter replacement.


I am sorry but do you even read what you are posting...what manual are you reading ?

It clearly states in ford's service techmanuals to use alittle clean oil on the o-rings....as seen here. Using the oil will hurt NOTHING, if anything it helps make sure the seals seat properly and don't get tear/kink/twist/whatever.

http://www.2005stang.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10281/quick%20connect%20couplings.pdf

If oil degraded o-rings I have an odd feeling that none of our motors would be running at all....good effort though ;)

Lowryder...u ROCK....I knew I had read about putting clean oil on the O-rings but couldn't remember where when 157db cried about it. Thanks for "clearing" the issue up.

Thanks for the reminder, I'll be changing mine on Saturday since I'm hitting 30k miles. By the way, the Service Manual sates:

During extensive idling and/or low speed driving
for long distances, as in heavy commercial use
such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery:
• Install a new fuel filter every 24,000 km (15,000
miles).

Normal Schedule:
48,000 Km (30,000 Miles)
• Install a new fuel filter.

ORIGINAL: NickSezz

Nice ill be doing this soon cause im just insane when it comes to any little thing that may be robbing power from my engine. Can u make the text a little bigger and space the steps out...kinda hurts my already bad eyes reading it. Get those pics!


If your Mouse has the wheel or roller, you can make the text larger by holding the "Ctrl" keyand roll the wheel at the same time.

Or cut and paste into Word or Notepad and increase the font. Then you can print it.:)

I just stopped by Autozone to pick one of these up and all they had was their brand.

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP708327/vehicleId,3021401/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,5384/partType,00540/shopping/partProductDetail.htm


There are no arror markings, but do see on one side is labled " IN " . Am I correct in thinking that this end shouldbe installed facing the engine?



Thanks

No, that end should be facing the gas tank.
Gas from the tank IN to the filter.
OUT of the filter to the engine.

Thanks !

It really surprises me the number of people that are implying that their fuel filters are clogged (to the extent of hindering performance) in so few miles. I'd never have considered changing mine much sooner than 30,000-50,000 miles. Good to know. Ya' gotta love this forum!

Why disconnect the negative battery cable? Can't I just remove the filter, collect all of the gas that comes out, put the new filter on and start the car?

why is every one saying use a screwdriver or a thumbnail to release the clips?

the tool is only $9.99 at AutoZone and saves any risk of damage to your fingernail or the clip.

I still got splashed in the face cause I couldn't seem to get rid of the pressure[:@]

Relieving fuel pressure prior to fuel filter removal:
If you remove the fuelpump fuse, and try to start the car but it won't start, where is the fuel going? I'd rather have fuel on the ground than in my cylinders.

Why disconnect the battery cable?

ORIGINAL: Fyrewalker

Hi, I am a new owner of a 2005 Mustang V6, bought it with 18k miles and since I didn't know
much about the history of maintenance I decided to change all the fluids and filters. So, today
it was the fuel filter. This is a VERY simple job that anyone that knows "lefty loosey, righty tighty" can accomplish. I included some pics.

1. remove the fuel pump fuse which is under the hood, in the fuse box on the passenger side, it is the fuse that is numbered 21 (page 165 in your owners manual)

1a. Turn the ignition and try to start the car, it shouldn't. Removing the fuse and trying to start will use up the gasoline that is
in the fuel line and because the fuel pump fuse is removed, no more gasoline will be introduced into the fuel line you are
going to be separating. This step makes it so when you do remove the fuel filter there will be very little gasoline left in the
fuel line (less of a mess).
2. disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. raise up car in the front or if using car jack that came with the car, lift up the front drivers side.

4. I used a floor jack, placed it at the front location where the regular jack goes, use jackstands too.

5. the fuel filter is located under the drivers seat, under the car, hidden by a large black cover that is held on by push pins and several 10mm nuts.

6. I did not remove the entire panel, only removing 3 10mm nuts and one push pin, allowing the cover to hang down out of the way.

7. Fuel filter is secured by a black rubber mount that is held on by a 10mm nut, remove this nut
thus allowing the rubber mount to be rotated, this makes it easier to slide out fuel filter.

8. The fuel filter itself is held onto the fuel lines on each side by fittings that have a green button on each side. Simply press the green button in (I used a screwdriver tip) and pull the filter off of the fuel line. Do this to both sides and the filter can now be slipped out of the rubber mount.

9. Make sure you install the new fuel
filter with the black arrow pointing toward the engine. Again press the green buttons on each
side of the fuel line, slide the connector over the new fuel filter and you will feel it click, pull
the filter and the fuel line in different directions (as to pull apart) to ensure that indeed they
are connected and the seal is good. Join the other side of the fuel filter to the other end of the fuel line, again feeling the click and pulling apart to ensure they are connected.

10. if you rotated the rubber mount holding on the fuel filter, rotate it back into place and secure with a 10mm bolt.

11. replace fuel pump fuse in position 21, reconnect negative battery cable.

12. turn the key in the ignition to on" do not engage the starter, it will sound different as the fuel
pump fills the fuel filter with fuel. Do this on/off cycle until you no longer hear the fuel pump
making a "priming noise" It took 3-4 times for mine to sound normal.

13. lower the car and start, let it run a few minutes, check for leaks. If none are found, reinstall
the fasteners that you removed and be happy that you did this yourself and saved
yourself some $. I will try to upload pics to clarify any confusing parts.

Note, when I removed my old fuel filter, I attempted to blow through it, it wasn't easy, I felt very little air coming out of the other side, of course it was wet with fuel but it was very clear that these filters should be changed as stated in the owners manual, every 15k miles. Also the car "feels" quicker, with less throttle lag.


I have more pictures if needed, just let me know I would be glad to email them to you.

local://upfiles/77137/7166CB8262DC4E25994CB4663FB4CB24.jpg

local://upfiles/77137/0497F0543DF24352BC65B1EB477EA6C8.jpg

local://upfiles/77137/CA7B4F1C43424395861356816A519E03.jpg


Thanks! Good write up.

I replaced mine today. I did not lift the car up, or drain the fuel line, or disconnect the battery cable. I also didn't apply oil to the line. My friend who is a mechanic at ford said I didn't need to do any of these things so I didn't.


I have an 06 GT with 23,000 miles and the stock filter was clogged up so I highly reccomend this simple and cheap replacement.

basically, if you read a manual - it always says "disconnect the negative battery cable" lol it'll tell you to do that for directions on changing oil :D

anyone know why it's 15K or 30K? my Grand Prix had 100K on it before it was done and i saw no difference in performance...is it really that big of a difference? then again, i hafta replace the filter on my mopar every 6 months or so and it's hardly ever driven, so i guess not that big of a deal...10 bux huh? maybe i'll do that on saturday [8D]

Great post. I just did mine and took about about 20 minutes total. After when I was done, I tipped the filter to the side to let the gas drain and all I saw was this awful brown liquid pour out, YUCK!

On another note, I changed the oil and did a sea foam treament. What a improvement!!!

I had dealer do mine at 40K with total cost of $49.25and was in and out in 25 minutes. No fuss no mess and no needing to buy special tools! Be due again by years end at 80K miles

ORIGINAL: 28HopUp

Very nice write-up. A_sixer(Tino) made this cool How-To video, which I also found helpful

http://media.putfile.com/Mustang-40-Fuel-Filter-Change



I just did my V8. Its exactly the same as the V6.

It is possible to install this type of filter?