Rebuilt the engine and replaced the seals throughout. I've got the timing more or less set (matched it to a properly timed '82 5.0 289) and it actually moves now, as well as running consistently. The idle sounds a bit high to me still.
I'm using a professionally rebuilt 2bbl stock carburetor (Autolite 2100?)
However, the major problem is that the engine is bogging and feels like its surging when I begin to put it under load and is not developing any power. It feels like it is going to stall once I shift into second (haven't been able to get up to speed for 3rd yet) and I feel like its just barely above a coast.
I also need to know where the vacuum advance line should be connected (mine is metal tubing) and where I should connect the line coming out of the thermostatic choke.
Forgive me if I'm not properly describing the issues, but I'm not as familiar with the terms as I'd like.
Posts: 3152
Joined: 1/18/2007 From: Las Cruces, NM Status: online
Just a shot in the dark, but if I were you I would check my points first (if I still had points), then I would replace the ignition coil.... if it turns out that the coil is good, you will still have a spare for later....
Barring these issues, I would verify that you don't have vacuum leaks, I was thinking this because of your high idle compounded by your other issues.
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66 Coupe I-6 Conversion, 408 Windsor, Tremec TKO 600 Wilwood fronts, SSBC Rears 9" Track Loc.
The vacuum advance from the distributor goes to the lower right hand side base of the carburetor into a threaded hole. There are two steel tubes going out of and into the choke area and both go to the right hand exhaust manifold at the rear to be heated. The cool air to the manifold comes from a short cast in fitting in the right hand upper part of the carburetor, transitions to a piece of rubber hose about 4 inches long, transitions to the tubing and goes to a hole on the under side of the heating chamber. The second tube comes from the top of the manifold wrapped in protective hi-temp cloth to a threaded fitting on the choke. There is a clip that holds them together. I recomend that both the vacuum tube and the choke tubes be new. Jim
The ignition coil is new and the distributor was functioning fine prior to the rebuild. The engine had begun dying before the strip down, particulary early in travel while moving downhill. However, I believe the problem that required the rebuild to have been the 1.5" slack in the timing chain and the five inch crack in the timing chain cover.
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Engine trouble under load: low power, surging\bogging - 
RE: Engine trouble under load: low power, surging\bogging - 