ok so my check oil light came on...this will be the first time i change the oil on my car but i am not sure wat would be the best type of oil for it...i have an 89

lol, your probably just missing some oil, check it, if so add a quart then check how long it lasts, 5.0s are famous for eating thru oil

if your check oil light came on thats an indication of one of two things,either u have a oil leak or u are burning oil.in either case u should have the problem taken care of before further damage occurs.i recently built a 308 and i use a castrol gtx 10w30,u dont have to use castrol but i would try to stick with the same brand from change to change.

Mine doesnt use a drop. I use mobil synthetic 10 30, just use 10 30 up too you if you want to spend money on synthetic or not, you can take longer to change it. I just change mine only once a year regardless of the mileage

the yellow bottle... 5w30

your a good man dime;) i've always used pennzoil 10w40 in any pushrod motor and never had an oil related failure, was raised on the stuff and my mom and dad never had oil problems either. im using pennz 5w20 full syn in my 06 GT

as long as you buy a good brand name you should be pretty safe and always try and use the same stuff its like gas, every company has their own additives.

ive just always used it... so far so good

I just threw some Supertech (Walmart brand) oil in mine. I do have some Valvoline on the shelf in my garage I bought on clearance for the next oil change (after cam break in) but after that its most likely back to Supertech.
Ive been using Supertech in my daily driver since it was new.

winter 10w30 summer 20w50 royal purple

cam break in? I have a new cam is there something I should do ? I used mobil 10-w40, sorry but first time I heard about cam break in.

Roller cam = no cam break in required.

ORIGINAL: PJB

I just threw some Supertech (Walmart brand) oil in mine. I do have some Valvoline on the shelf in my garage I bought on clearance for the next oil change (after cam break in) but after that its most likely back to Supertech.
Ive been using Supertech in my daily driver since it was new.



Mobil used to supply the supertech oil, dont know it its still true :D

and I use supertech also [8D]

yeah its true and napa oil is made by valvoline

I usually use Castrol GTX 10w30.

ORIGINAL: Joel5.0

Roller cam = no cam break in required.

I didnt know that. My friend thats doing the work on my motor said to drive it easy for a few 100 miles and then change the oil.
I also had new heads put on.

Regarding oil grades for our 5.0's.....any oil with the API seal......

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d80085582.jpg

....will do. Regarding viscosity.........

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d801da5ee.gif

the API seal aside, there can be oil that barely passes, and other oil that far exceeds the specs.

just like gas, the additives certain companies use do very well to keep things clean. right now "techron" from chevron/texaco is the best additive i know of. cheap gas doesnt have this. it will run in your car just fine - but it will clog your crap over time

Royal Purple 10w30. Pricey, but I like it.

Its all a pissing contest on oil... They all have to meet the same guidelines... For example, most people don't like quaker state, but like pennzoil, but it comes out of the same barrel... Made at the same place... I prefer castrol myself though, seems to be pretty durable..

I work at Advance, and i see people buy good oil and the worst filter all the time, not realizing the oil is only as good as the filter it runs through... Just a aggrivation of mine

thankz for the replys...i just checked it and seen like two drops of oil on the floor so im going to look into that then

ORIGINAL: kev2369

Its all a pissing contest on oil... They all have to meet the same guidelines... For example, most people don't like quaker state, but like pennzoil, but it comes out of the same barrel... Made at the same place... I prefer castrol myself though, seems to be pretty durable..

I work at Advance, and i see people buy good oil and the worst filter all the time, not realizing the oil is only as good as the filter it runs through... Just a aggrivation of mine



:D but, but....its so orange-y [8D]

I wouldnt use penzoil or quaker state ive heard and seen too many motors torn apart after using both brands that look like a jello mold something about all those special molecules they advertise crystallizing like sugar. Also that service label mostly applies to gas mileage hence why all 5 20 and 30 has it, but no 1040 and up does even some 10 30s dont. You lose a little mileage with thicker oil but its easier on the engine for wear especially if there are a lot of miles.

Clean oil. ;)

I'd like to run Royal Purple, but I'm poor. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic in my Mustang. I run Rotella T in my Cummins. I run Valvoline in everything else.

For you Pennzoil guys, haven't you torn down Pennzoil motors and seen all the pink sludge in them? You can ALWAYS tell a Pennzoil motor when you tear them down. I wouldn't ever run that crap.

I have always like the Full Synthetic....Quaker State and of course Royal Purple. But its up to you if you want to spend that much money or not. 10W 30 in my truck all year round and same in my car but only drives in the summer.

people buy good oil and the worst filter all the time, not realizing the oil is only as good as the filter it runs through

SO true

For you Pennzoil guys, haven't you torn down Pennzoil motors and seen all the pink sludge in them? You can ALWAYS tell a Pennzoil motor when you tear them down. I wouldn't ever run that crap.

i have no idea what your talking about. not only has my entire family used pennz since as far back as i could remember and never had a problem, i have torn down motors at work countless times that were running pennzoil and never saw "pink sludge". i believe the only time you will form layers of sludge is from not changing the oil on time - and this is true for ALL brands of oil.

btw i have a van sitting outside with a 300 I-6 that used nothing but pennz 10w40 with a strict 4k change interval (a work van, hauling freight - so basically all "tow" miles). first motor popped a radiator hose and blew the head gasket @ 365,000 miles. current motor (a reman from ATK) has 200,000 on it and still starts and drives anywhere you wanna go. my dads izusu straight truck with a I-6 diesel, used pennz diesel oil instead of delvac or rotella. the dealer told him to expect a rebuild @ approx 300-350k miles. he got 750,000 out of it and ran great till the day a rod snapped in two and lunched out the side of the block.

as you can see, i have some very defined firsthand experience with the "yellow" bottle - and i have NEVER had a problem.

whatever synthetic advance auto has on sale(usually buy 1 get one free)

You need to see a valvoline engine then... It looks like someone shaved crayons in the top of the engine... Valvoline has some kind of wax **** in it that causes a build up... May have improved over time, but i've saw several NASTY valvoline motors

In my first mustang(69) I used pennzoil, my 73 Mach I used Valvoline, 80 capri 2.3 what ever was on sale. Almost always used fram filters but that was before I knew better or STP.

Now for my 87 I either use Valvoline synthetic blend (blue bottle) or Motorcraft 10-30 or 10-40 and Motorcraft Filters can't remember who makes the oil but Wix makes Motorcraft filters, 300K miles must be doing something right. just my 2 cents

ORIGINAL: my77stang

people buy good oil and the worst filter all the time, not realizing the oil is only as good as the filter it runs through

SO true

For you Pennzoil guys, haven't you torn down Pennzoil motors and seen all the pink sludge in them? You can ALWAYS tell a Pennzoil motor when you tear them down. I wouldn't ever run that crap.

i have no idea what your talking about. not only has my entire family used pennz since as far back as i could remember and never had a problem, i have torn down motors at work countless times that were running pennzoil and never saw "pink sludge". i believe the only time you will form layers of sludge is from not changing the oil on time - and this is true for ALL brands of oil.

btw i have a van sitting outside with a 300 I-6 that used nothing but pennz 10w40 with a strict 4k change interval (a work van, hauling freight - so basically all "tow" miles). first motor popped a radiator hose and blew the head gasket @ 365,000 miles. current motor (a reman from ATK) has 200,000 on it and still starts and drives anywhere you wanna go. my dads izusu straight truck with a I-6 diesel, used pennz diesel oil instead of delvac or rotella. the dealer told him to expect a rebuild @ approx 300-350k miles. he got 750,000 out of it and ran great till the day a rod snapped in two and lunched out the side of the block.

as you can see, i have some very defined firsthand experience with the "yellow" bottle - and i have NEVER had a problem.



im with my77stang on this one...I was raised on the yellow bottle thanks to my dad. we done numoures rebuild and custome build of engine from chevy and ford and never ran into those pink layers...right now my 94 GT running Castrol GTX High mileage 20W-50. This is what the guy was running on it before i purchased it off him. I think im going to switch it over to the yellow bottle on the next oil change. IDK about in area but here in so cal i got told by a wal mart guy that there oil "is **** and isn't worth even buying...that its only good if you got a small 4 banger thats only ment to be drivin by an old person"... As for the filters im a fram or K&N person myself....never trusted any other company on this stuff.

ORIGINAL: snake90269
... As for the filters im a fram or K&N person myself....never trusted any other company on this stuff.



oh oh [&:]

ORIGINAL: 86 5.0L

ORIGINAL: snake90269
... As for the filters im a Fram or K&N person myself....never trusted any other company on this stuff.



oh oh


I Grew using this stuff with my dad and every time we ended up using others we ended up lossing HP so we stick with what we know works...

I like the castrol gtx high-mileage.

i use valvoline 10w30 high mileage.
works great and when i tear my motor down this winter ill find out if it was worth the 3.50 a qt on the oil.
i also use fram oil filters...ive read that sticky about how their horrible and yada yada yada
but if their really horrible why would they be the number one selling brand?
they've been around for a long time and ive never had a bad exsperiance with them.

I run Mobil1 Full synthetic and a Wix filter. Thats the same thing I run in my daily driver cavalier and its going on 160k with absolutly no probs.

pennz FTW!!!!

and i used to use frams too until i saw what they looked like cut apart. i will never buy one again. turns out motorcraft filters actually pwn the rest, and they are pretty cheap so thats what i will be using from here on out. i have been using the k&n filters on the 06, and they ARE good filters but no better (maybe even not as good) as the motorcraft ones.

also i will admit that last oil change in my town car i used motorcraft semi-syn 10w30 in the 4.6 cause its semi syn yet cheaper than the dino pennz...... strange [&:]

ORIGINAL: my77stang

pennz FTW!!!!

and i used to use frams too until i saw what they looked like cut apart. i will never buy one again. turns out motorcraft filters actually pwn the rest, and they are pretty cheap so thats what i will be using from here on out. i have been using the k&n filters on the 06, and they ARE good filters but no better (maybe even not as good) as the motorcraft ones.

also i will admit that last oil change in my town car i used motorcraft semi-syn 10w30 in the 4.6 cause its semi syn yet cheaper than the dino pennz...... strange [&:]


Oh ****. Guess i'll need to change that...[&:]

I always use motorcraft oil or GTX, and always have a motorcraft filter. My 5.0 (built 306) I ran normal old GTX 5w30 with a FL1A filter.

Now I'm running GTX 5w20 with a FL820S filter on the new ride. We use the hell out of Pennzoil at my old work (independant shop) and I wont use it for anything.. the filters are junk and the non synthetic oil just never seemed to look as good as other oil when being changed.

ORIGINAL: ctgreddy

i use valvoline 10w30 high mileage.
works great and when i tear my motor down this winter ill find out if it was worth the 3.50 a qt on the oil.
i also use fram oil filters...ive read that sticky about how their horrible and yada yada yada
but if their really horrible why would they be the number one selling brand?
they've been around for a long time and ive never had a bad exsperiance with them.



one word,

marketing

;)

i use GTX 20 50...

you wouldnt belive how many stang 5.0's came into the oil shop i work in for oil changes and which we use pennz products...they all bring their own filters which 75% of the time are k&n oil filters and use rotella 15/40 oil....they said its cool for the summer and they use it because of the detergents in it...because one guy explained that he was a diesel mechanic and he said when he tears a diesel motor apart its clean...so he said as long as you dont run cats then its perfectly fine

I've always used the Supertech Synthetic 10w-30

Which oil shop in Garden do you work for

1985stang dont take my word for it though, there is a site that shows all the major manufacturers filters cut apart and you can see the craptastic quality of the components.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram1.gifhttp://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram-xv.gif
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-puro.gifhttp://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram2.gif
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-wix.gif

ORIGINAL: my77stang

1985stang dont take my word for it though, there is a site that shows all the major manufacturers filters cut apart and you can see the craptastic quality of the components.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram1.gifhttp://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram-xv.gif
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-puro.gifhttp://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-fram2.gif
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/images/filter-wix.gif


LOL,....didn't think much about the oil filter too...**** i was about to put a bosch filter in mine just cause my dad has one laying around too... i guess Fram aint building great things any more....mybe i should switch to motocraft or one of the Purolator ones...this is good information since i need to take my car for an oil chang later this week...im also giving it a tune up so i guess i'll need to do research about spark plugs and cables too.[X(]

im using motorcraft filters from here on out, purolator and wix also seem to be pretty good.

as for wires, i know the local autozone carries the cheapys, the mid grades, and the boschs. well i can tell you i bought midgrades once and was watching the spark arc thru the silicon boot and onto my header. i took em back and bought the cheapest set they had and didnt have that problem. that being said, i usally use the bosch wires for any normal applicactions. for you car, a good wire for cheap is the accel 8mm, and to get better your getting into the accel 8.8 / msd 8.5 (which is what im using this next go round) / ford racing wires / taylors / etc.

i actually believe taylors are among the best you can buy.

ORIGINAL: my77stang

im using motorcraft filters from here on out, purolator and wix also seem to be pretty good.

as for wires, i know the local autozone carries the cheapys, the mid grades, and the boschs. well i can tell you i bought midgrades once and was watching the spark arc thru the silicon boot and onto my header. i took em back and bought the cheapest set they had and didnt have that problem. that being said, i usally use the bosch wires for any normal applicactions. for you car, a good wire for cheap is the accel 8mm, and to get better your getting into the accel 8.8 / msd 8.5 (which is what im using this next go round) / ford racing wires / taylors / etc.

i actually believe taylors are among the best you can buy.


yeah...i was thinking about putting in MSD for it. they seem to be some of the best out there.

Ive always stuck to Motorcraft oil and filters, it just always made sense to use a genuine Ford product. However, I also use a can of "Engine Restore" in my '92 GT, car runs alot smoother ever since I started

Royal purple. gives me really high oil pressure

I use Valvoline Maxlife 10/30 and Motorcraft filters exclusively. I'm always looking for that next best oil though. I may try straight synthetic at some point; although I'm kind of partial to dino oil changed at about 2800 miles.

i use mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30 along with a mobil 1oil filter.

i've always used castrol gtx 10w30 in my 69 and my 95 5.0's. i used to only buy fram filters. now i think i ill buy motorcraft.

ORIGINAL: my77stang

im using motorcraft filters from here on out, purolator and wix also seem to be pretty good.



As I said earlier Wix is the manufacture for the Motorcraft filters. I was impressed with the cut STP filter too I have used those in the past off and on with good results.

5.5 qts of castrol 20w50 and 2 qts lucas. i run the accel 8.8 spiral core wires.

ORIGINAL: PJB

I just threw some Supertech (Walmart brand) oil in mine.


Ive heard mixed things about those brands....arent they recycled oil with additives? But I put pennzoil 10w 30 in mine

actually the motorcraft filters are supposed to be "purolator pure ones" check the pic, the pure one is the blue filter next to the ford. that article says ford swaps around with manufacturers though - but i cant imagine them going from a quality filter to a crap filter

ORIGINAL: my77stang

actually the motorcraft filters are supposed to be "purolator pure ones" check the pic, the pure one is the blue filter next to the ford. that article says ford swaps around with manufacturers though - but i cant imagine them going from a quality filter to a crap filter


Yeah the only thing that rubbed me wrong was that the motocraft had a rubber band around the actual internal of the filter...i doubt it does anything to is but i also hope it don't need the band because it be bad if the oil gets hot enough to break the band apart...

i dont think its a rubber band i think its a piece of string. if ford is ok with it than so am i [8D]