I'm really looking for people who installed their own. Did you have any trouble modifying the coolant crossover tube?I readsomeone broke theirs trying to remove the inner tube.My other question is how hard would it be to get the car back to driveable condition if you had to remove the supercharger for service/repair. I'm not totally sure why the crossover tube is modified, would you need to put all the coolant lines back to stock to run without the blower? I'm trying to think of worse case scenarios. I'm getting ready to order the vortech kit from brenspeed. I should be installing it on Sept 09.

By other question has to do with oil getting sucked into the intake. Is this a problem with the vortech kit?

I cant venture any help on the modifications....however since its a 13-15 hour job to install and you have to tap the oil pan and remove the stock coolant tank, relocate the alternator and a few other items.... IMO its not practical to remove for warranty work.(my assumption for why u asked)

you'd need at least a day to remove and then a second day to reinstall.....

I was talking about warranty work on the supercharger or even repairing it out of warranty. I don't remembering reading about relocating the alternator in the paxton instructions. I haven't found the vortech instructions online, if anyone knows where they are please shoot me a link.

ahh.... you werent specific the way it was worded...

I was working from memory about the alternator.... .I maybe off in my recolection....

google is your friend.... http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/pdf/manuals/4FU218im.pdf (http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/pdf/manuals/4FU218im.pdf%C2%A0)

pg 19

You know I looked on the vortech site and had a hell of a time navigating. Looks just like the paxton install.

The part about heating the coolant crossover tube is all I'm worried about and then it says to insert the plug and use sealer. What sealer, i don't know. I'll ask brent at brenspeed what they use to heat it and what sealer they use.

Vortech going on Sept. 9th unless I change my mind before then.:eek:

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

Frankly, i was turned off by the saleen due to all the problems with dropping the transmission. I don't need all the hassle. Plus I allready have 4.10 gears, i don't need anymore torque down low on the street.

Beside the hassle of putting a hole in the pan for the return line, it makes more sense to use filtered engine oil don't you think?

I also want it to be quiet, not sure the saleen can deliver that.

Did you ever have leaking problems with your procharger? I've read their earlier models had leaking problems. I'm assuming your procharger was a self contained unit.


ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

By the way, thanks a lot for putting me in doubt again. I'm no asking brent about the saleen stage 1 package, should be $5300 minus the tuner. $1300 ain't much when i'm allready dropping $4k.

Anyone want to start a centri vs. twin screw debate? Which will give less problems/last longer? Which do you think is easier to install? Looks like the saleen is easier to me, i asked brent his opinion, but judging by the $650/one day install price, i'm guessing the saleen.

ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

well moose, since it was YOU who opened the door :)

PLEASE PLEASE go with the whipple non intercooled,
I BEG YOU!


i only want the best for your stang, cause i know how much you
love her.....




ORIGINAL: moosestang

By the way, thanks a lot for putting me in doubt again. I'm no asking brent about the saleen stage 1 package, should be $5300 minus the tuner. $1300 ain't much when i'm allready dropping $4k.

Anyone want to start a centri vs. twin screw debate? Which will give less problems/last longer? Which do you think is easier to install? Looks like the saleen is easier to me, i asked brent his opinion, but judging by the $650/one day install price, i'm guessing the saleen.

ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

I don't think brenspeed has a tune for the whipple;). I've read plenty that the whipple tune sucks! I don't really like the look of the whipple or the KB to tell you the truth. The saleen looks the best in the engine compartment, but looks aren't everything.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

well moose, since it was YOU who opened the door :)

PLEASE PLEASE go with the whipple non intercooled,
I BEG YOU!


i only want the best for your stang, cause i know how much you
love her.....




ORIGINAL: moosestang

By the way, thanks a lot for putting me in doubt again. I'm no asking brent about the saleen stage 1 package, should be $5300 minus the tuner. $1300 ain't much when i'm allready dropping $4k.

Anyone want to start a centri vs. twin screw debate? Which will give less problems/last longer? Which do you think is easier to install? Looks like the saleen is easier to me, i asked brent his opinion, but judging by the $650/one day install price, i'm guessing the saleen.

ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

Does anyone know if the whipples are shipping with a tuner now? I know when they first came out you had to send your computer to them. For $4274, i could buy the whipple and have it dyno tuned by VMPtuning.:D

I'm never going to be able to make this decision. My vacation starts sept. 8th and I plan on installing a supercharger of some kind!

ORIGINAL: hammeron

well moose, since it was YOU who opened the door :)

PLEASE PLEASE go with the whipple non intercooled,
I BEG YOU!


i only want the best for your stang, cause i know how much you
love her.....




ORIGINAL: moosestang

By the way, thanks a lot for putting me in doubt again. I'm no asking brent about the saleen stage 1 package, should be $5300 minus the tuner. $1300 ain't much when i'm allready dropping $4k.

Anyone want to start a centri vs. twin screw debate? Which will give less problems/last longer? Which do you think is easier to install? Looks like the saleen is easier to me, i asked brent his opinion, but judging by the $650/one day install price, i'm guessing the saleen.

ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

well it is true that the looks of the whipple is an
aquired taste

i do love the saleen VI also, so if there's any chance for
you to go with the stage 1, then i would be extremely
happy as well

VORTECH!!!! FTW.....

just my .02....

435 RWHP 382 TQ a beast in the upper revs

So long as it's an unbiased opinion.;)

ORIGINAL: Stkjock

VORTECH!!!! FTW.....

just my .02....

435 RWHP 382 TQ a beast in the upper revs

what happens is, when you get your kit, there will be
a voucher in it that tells you how to log onto the FRPP
web site, there you will register your kit and will soon
receive the ford flash tool (only took about 2 days for mine).

i don't know where you read about crappy tunes, but a lot
of people over at (the other site) are running the frpp tune
and are producing respectable (and safe) numbers.

VMP is also an excellent option for you after you get on the
road.....


ORIGINAL: moosestang

Does anyone know if the whipples are shipping with a tuner now?




ORIGINAL: hammeron

well moose, since it was YOU who opened the door :)

PLEASE PLEASE go with the whipple non intercooled,
I BEG YOU!


i only want the best for your stang, cause i know how much you
love her.....




ORIGINAL: moosestang

By the way, thanks a lot for putting me in doubt again. I'm no asking brent about the saleen stage 1 package, should be $5300 minus the tuner. $1300 ain't much when i'm allready dropping $4k.

Anyone want to start a centri vs. twin screw debate? Which will give less problems/last longer? Which do you think is easier to install? Looks like the saleen is easier to me, i asked brent his opinion, but judging by the $650/one day install price, i'm guessing the saleen.

ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD

Change your mind before it's to late. Go with the Saleen. I currently have a Procharger on my F-150 and if i could do it over again I would not get a Centrifugal Supercharger.

And screw that tapping into your oil pan crap.

Richard

for me it made the most sense.....docile to cruise with... a beast to race......

fact of the matter.... which ever system u chose.... you'll love it.....

amen, my boosting brotha :)



ORIGINAL: Stkjock

for me it made the most sense.....docile to cruise with... a beast to race......

fact of the matter.... which ever system u chose.... you'll love it.....

moose, whether ya get the black or the polished,
who could resist.........resistance is futile

and art needs another boat, so come on :D


http://www.whipplesuperchargers.com/Images/productimages/05_Mustang_RightImage_Engine_Large.jpg

Anyone have a video of the whipple at idle/cruise/wot?

I will in about 2 wks time! I will email them to you when she is done!

Here is a guy that is on the forum that just had his done whereI am getting mine done. Click on the Mustang GT when on the link and he had some vids that may help ya! http://www.mkeeler.com/

I have done tons of research on the net and reading through the forums and I have finally came to the FRPP whipple non-int. Looks like the easiest to install yourself which I plan on doing.

It is for a daily driver that I dont want to have to replace anything else.An extra 75-100 horse is good enough for me....for now. Later it can grow with your needs.

Yeah from what I have read they send you a tuner in the mail once you register it. I figure they do it so that ford knows to void your warranty.

I also plan on having mine tuned by VMP. If you choose the Whipple intercooled or non and want some help with the install, (as I assume you live in the Orlando area),let me know I might be available, and would love the practice :D. Even if I cant make the install I might want a ride, just to reinforce my decision.;)

I'm with ya moosetang, have come so close to pulling the trigger on the Paxton several times but after attending Mustang week and few weeks ago in Myrtle Beach and seeing how clean the Whipple install is compared to a Centri I'm really leaning toward the Whipple. Then again it's a lot more money, but then again I really would like to go with Brenspeed tunes so then againSaleen makes a nice clean install too, so then again maybe a Saleen then..... SHEEEESH!
One thing is for sure though, in my research for a supercharger over the past few months I've talked to several people including alot of you guys in here and regardless whether it's a Paxton, Vortech, Saleen, Whipple, or KB, I've yet to find anybody that regrets it or dislikes their setup.

Hammeron, I noticed you put ina plug for a "non" intercooled Whipple. Which leads me to a thought or question, I'd like to defer the cost of the cooler but isnt it much easier on "parts" to have the cooler?? especially for a daily driver where reliability and durability is concerned. If I understand correctly, when you compress air like the blower does, the temperature really skyrockets. Just a thought to continue a good thread for the tight wads and indecisive.

I know you didnt direct the question to me, but.....

You are correct the compression of the air by the blower causes heat. The heat rises with increases in boost, ie higher boost, higher temps. Hot air doesnt have as much oxygen but then again you are cramming air down the engines throat with the blower anyway. At low boost pressure like 6 pounds as seen with the base non-intercoooled whipple an intercooler is not mandatory.

Ford built this kit as a conservative set up and will even warranty the drivetrain, which means they are sure it is safe. As long as you dont try to up the boost or go with a real aggressive tune all is well. It also doesnt produce as high power numbers which is easier on the hardware, engine, trans etc.

Ford and whipple sell a kit to upgrade the non-intercooled kit to the HO intercooled kit which pumps out 500 hp.

As you said any kind of FI is better than none.

Just as a note MM&FF installed the non-intercooled kit on stock GT automatic and ran a 12.6 on street tires. Not too shabby for about $4200.

all good points you make, no doubt. i only suggested
the whipple non-intercooled, because it is close in price
to what moose is willing to spend right now.

6psi will not harm the engine in any way, that is what
Jared @ Lethal says and I believe him. everyone should
use theie own good judgement, when strapping an air
compressor to their baby



ORIGINAL: aclass

Hammeron, I noticed you put ina plug for a "non" intercooled Whipple. Which leads me to a thought or question, I'd like to defer the cost of the cooler but isnt it much easier on "parts" to have the cooler?? especially for a daily driver where reliability and durability is concerned. If I understand correctly, when you compress air like the blower does, the temperature really skyrockets. Just a thought to continue a good thread for the tight wads and indecisive.

Hmmmmm, so $5300 for the saleen and a little more power or $4200 for a little less power, but probably less hassle when i need to change my clutch.

I took another look at the whipple and I was thinking of the kenne I guess. The whipples air cleaner is in the stock location. I was thinking it went over to the passenger side and down. D'Agostino racing sells a tune for the whipple that's supposed to be pretty good from what i've read, but I'll probably just get it tuned at VMP.

I live 1 1/2 hours north of Deland, not exactly Orlando.:)

Brent said to go with the saleen if I can afford it.

Hammeron, hows the whipple during cruising? Do you know it's there or does it only scream like a banshee at WOT? I listened to a few sound clips and it does sound mean at full throttle.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

all good points you make, no doubt. i only suggested
the whipple non-intercooled, because it is close in price
to what moose is willing to spend right now.

6psi will not harm the engine in any way, that is what
Jared @ Lethal says and I believe him. everyone should
use theie own good judgement, when strapping an air
compressor to their baby



ORIGINAL: aclass

Hammeron, I noticed you put ina plug for a "non" intercooled Whipple. Which leads me to a thought or question, I'd like to defer the cost of the cooler but isnt it much easier on "parts" to have the cooler?? especially for a daily driver where reliability and durability is concerned. If I understand correctly, when you compress air like the blower does, the temperature really skyrockets. Just a thought to continue a good thread for the tight wads and indecisive.

I just realized that I will have to get a custom tune for the whipple. My speedo will be way off with the 4.10 gears! Otherwise my car is basically stock as far as the engine is concerned. I'm going to see how much a mail order tune is from D'Agostino racing, I don't want to have to drive almost 2 hours to the dyno with the speedo being off by 15mph.

ORIGINAL: moosestang

I was talking about warranty work on the supercharger or even repairing it out of warranty. I don't remembering reading about relocating the alternator in the paxton instructions. I haven't found the vortech instructions online, if anyone knows where they are please shoot me a link.



I can see how many pages mine came with and if possible scan them for you.

ORIGINAL: viking396

I can see how many pages mine came with and if possible scan them for you.


No need, i found them on the vortech website.



Has anyone actually purchased the non intercooled whipple from www.blueovalperformance.net (http://www.blueovalperformance.net)? Their price of $4274 is about $600 cheaper than everyone else.

hey moose, cruising you don't even know it's there.
when you mash the go pedal, it creates a beautiful
sound that will make you smile, no matter how your
day is going :)



ORIGINAL: moosestang

Hammeron, hows the whipple during cruising?Â* Do you know it's there or does it only scream like a banshee at WOT?Â* I listened to a few sound clips and it does sound mean at full throttle.

Anyone know how much the cooler is seperate? Say I just want to add the cooler later and not change anything else, how much am I looking at?

Thanks.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

all good points you make, no doubt. i only suggested
the whipple non-intercooled, because it is close in price
to what moose is willing to spend right now.

6psi will not harm the engine in any way, that is what
Jared @ Lethal says and I believe him. everyone should
use theie own good judgement, when strapping an air
compressor to their baby



ORIGINAL: aclass

Hammeron, I noticed you put ina plug for a "non" intercooled Whipple. Which leads me to a thought or question, I'd like to defer the cost of the cooler but isnt it much easier on "parts" to have the cooler?? especially for a daily driver where reliability and durability is concerned. If I understand correctly, when you compress air like the blower does, the temperature really skyrockets. Just a thought to continue a good thread for the tight wads and indecisive.

whipple lists the intercooler upgrade kit at
around $2050, so figure about 15 - 20% less
perhaps, at an authorized distributor




ORIGINAL: moosestang

Anyone know how much the cooler is seperate?Â* Say I just want to add the cooler later and not change anything else, how much am I looking at?

Thanks.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

all good points you make, no doubt. i only suggested
the whipple non-intercooled, because it is close in price
to what moose is willing to spend right now.

6psi will not harm the engine in any way, that is what
Jared @ Lethal says and I believe him. everyone should
use theie own good judgement, when strapping an air
compressor to their baby



ORIGINAL: aclass

Hammeron,Â* I noticed you put inÂ*a plug for a "non" intercooled Whipple.Â*Â* Which leads me to a thought or question,Â*Â* I'd like to defer the cost of the cooler but isnt it much easier on "parts" to have the cooler??Â* especially for a daily driver where reliability and durability is concerned.Â* If I understand correctly,Â* when you compress air like the blower does,Â*Â* the temperature really skyrockets.Â*Â* Just a thought to continue a good thread for the tight wads and indecisive.

With the Whipple, is it one tune and one tune only that you get with the Ford tune tool??
Also, when you do flash your PCM with their tool, it would stillbe possible for you to use the SCT2 if a known tuner were to create them in that format wouldnt it??

good questions

ok, i must also add.....this is what i believe and NOT
necessarily fact.....



ORIGINAL: aclass

With the Whipple,Â* is it one tune and one tune only that you get with the Ford tune tool??


yes, just one tune


Also,Â*Â* when you do flash your PCM with their tool,Â* it would stillÂ*be possible for you to use the SCT2 if a known tuner were to create them in that format wouldnt it??

i believe that if you wanted to load a custom tune, the sct
would simply save the frpp tune as "the stock" tune.


Â*Â*Â*

I would concur with that assumption. Sucks that the whipple tuner doesn't atleast allow you to change gear ratios and such, but I want it on a dyno anyway so no biggie.

The whipple is in the lead right now if I can get it for $4,274. It will be nice if it dynoed at 415rwhp like they claim.

Hammeron, i saw a picture of everything that's included in the basic kit and it looked like there was a new coolant crossover tube. Can you verify that?

ORIGINAL: hammeron

good questions

ok, i must also add.....this is what i believe and NOT
necessarily fact.....



ORIGINAL: aclass

With the Whipple, is it one tune and one tune only that you get with the Ford tune tool??


yes, just one tune


Also, when you do flash your PCM with their tool, it would stillbe possible for you to use the SCT2 if a known tuner were to create them in that format wouldnt it??

i believe that if you wanted to load a custom tune, the sct
would simply save the frpp tune as "the stock" tune.

Right on both parts asI am getting the SCT with mine and custom dyno tunes for the other tunesnext week!ORIGINAL: hammeron

good questions

ok, i must also add.....this is what i believe and NOT
necessarily fact.....



ORIGINAL: aclass

With the Whipple, is it one tune and one tune only that you get with the Ford tune tool??


yes, just one tune


Also, when you do flash your PCM with their tool, it would stillbe possible for you to use the SCT2 if a known tuner were to create them in that format wouldnt it??

i believe that if you wanted to load a custom tune, the sct
would simply save the frpp tune as "the stock" tune.

ORIGINAL: moosestang

It will be nice if it dynoed at 415rwhp like they claim.


With the frpp tune, i think it's gonna dyno around 400rwhp



Hammeron, i saw a picture of everything that's included in the basic kit and it looked like there was a new coolant crossover tube.Â* Can you verify that?Â*


yes, a new coolant crossover is part of the new setup






ORIGINAL: hammeron

good questions

ok, i must also add.....this is what i believe and NOT
necessarily fact.....



ORIGINAL: aclass

With the Whipple,Â* is it one tune and one tune only that you get with the Ford tune tool??


yes, just one tune


Also,Â*Â* when you do flash your PCM with their tool,Â* it would stillÂ*be possible for you to use the SCT2 if a known tuner were to create them in that format wouldnt it??

i believe that if you wanted to load a custom tune, the sct
would simply save the frpp tune as "the stock" tune.


Â*Â*

mygt500, You're ordering your Whipple and NOT getting the Ford Tune Tool but a SCT2 tune??? OR are you having your Whipple dyno'd and custom tuned using a SCT2? Sorry for the confusion, just interested b/c I hadnt seen a S/C dealer that sold the Whipple that way.
If so, you know you have to share your sources....... inlcuding price.

Thanks



ORIGINAL: mygt500

Right on both parts asI am getting the SCT with mine and custom dyno tunes for the other tunesnext week!ORIGINAL: hammeron

good questions

ok, i must also add.....this is what i believe and NOT
necessarily fact.....



ORIGINAL: aclass

With the Whipple, is it one tune and one tune only that you get with the Ford tune tool??


yes, just one tune


Also, when you do flash your PCM with their tool, it would stillbe possible for you to use the SCT2 if a known tuner were to create them in that format wouldnt it??

i believe that if you wanted to load a custom tune, the sct
would simply save the frpp tune as "the stock" tune.

I'm pretty sure it was either VMP or lethal peformance that offered cutom tunes via an SCT tuner for the Whipple. This way we could change gear ratios if necessary.

ORIGINAL: Simon1

I'm pretty sure it was either VMP or lethal peformance that offered cutom tunes via an SCT tuner for the Whipple. This way we could change gear ratios if necessary.


I got a reponsed from whipple about gears, horsepower claims, etc.

The kit comes with a voucher that you will use to register for the flash tool from FRPP. You will need these other mod's (i.e. gears, tires) done before you register so that the speedo and computer are calibrated correctly. The NON IC kit is 400HP at the fly (about 350 at the tires).[/align][/align]350 at the wheels would be a huge dissappointment for $4k. I'm guessing that you can fill out the voucher and put that you have 4.10 gears, etc.[/align]

Here is my email response from blueovalperformance.net about their $4,274 price for the non intercooled whipple kit[/align][/align]

Some pricing has changed, please call us I will try to make it worth your wild[/align]360-993-1745 thank you[/align]refer to this email, thank you


[/align]Sound like a bunch of ****ing crooks to me. I won't be buying sh!t from anyone who can't keep their pricing correct.[/align][/align]

Anyone know a reliable source for the whipple kit at a $4300 price?

LMAO they said "worth your wild" Stay far away that shows alot!

Yeah I saw that. That was a copy and paste from the email.

ORIGINAL: s2k

LMAO they said "worth your wild" Stay far away that shows alot!

Moosetang, I've not called these folk yet so I'm only forwarding you this on a rumor. I've heard several positive comments about http://www.yourperformancesource.com/regarding Whipples. Just in case you hadnt heard of them.
Keep me posted if you call.

ORIGINAL: moosestang

Anyone know a reliable source for the whipple kit at a $4300 price?

I can't decide, i don't know how I ever decided on a CAI. I really like the whipple for the look/easy install, but I keep reading how I'm going to get all this detonation without an intercooler. The saleen install looks like a biotch compared to the whipple.

ORIGINAL: aclass

Moosetang, I've not called these folk yet so I'm only forwarding you this on a rumor. I've heard several positive comments about http://www.yourperformancesource.com/regarding Whipples. Just in case you hadnt heard of them.
Keep me posted if you call.

ORIGINAL: moosestang

Anyone know a reliable source for the whipple kit at a $4300 price?

Where did you hear about detonation with the whipple? They wouldnt be selling them and ford wouldnt be warrantying them if they were bad.

I was so sure before but now I am wondering if it will be enough power. I am going to start a spin off thread.

I didn't read anything specific for the non intercooled whipple. I just read all the expert:eek:opinions in other threads that all say get an intercooler. I don't want the intercooler upgrade kit either because it comes with all the things to make more power which I don't want.

I've read the instructions for all these kits and the whipple non intercooledis hands down the easiest to install, mostly because theirs no intercooler.;)

ORIGINAL: MustangGT0405

Where did you hear about detonation with the whipple? They wouldnt be selling them and ford wouldnt be warrantying them if they were bad.

I was so sure before but now I am wondering if it will be enough power. I am going to start a spin off thread.

You need the intercooler above 6 or 8 psi. this is because the air gets hotter as you increase the boost thusthe needfor anintercooler to keep air charge temps under control and avoid detonation, but at 5 or 6 PSI the intercooler is not needed, what is more, it is useless.

I read somewhere that the air charge at 6psi-non intercooled is the same temp as the air charge at 12psi-intercooled. Not sure how true that is, but it would agree with your useless opinion.

I decided to do some google research to see if the experts on this forum are right or just fed a bunch of bull. I've come up with some interesting reading. Here's one such article saying you need 10psi of boost to justify the cost and hassle of an intercooler.

http://home.alltel.net/mcfly/intercooler.htm

Frankly if whipple (the undisputed experts) are selling it without the intercooler then you don't need one for that kit.


ORIGINAL: jrm1900

You need the intercooler above 6 or 8 psi. this is because the air gets hotter as you increase the boost thusthe needfor anintercooler to keep air charge temps under control and avoid detonation, but at 5 or 6 PSI the intercooler is not needed, what is more, it is useless.

the fact of the matter is being intercooled depends more on how you drive, and where your located. unfortunately your in florida. so with our summer temps you wlill need a intercooler, no matter what boost your on.i know many will disagree but trust me i know. what will happen if you dont go intercooled is your motor will get hot, and your i.e.t( intake enlet temp ) will go through the roof, and most likely in the tune, when it gets so hot, your computer will start retarding your timing. so lets say you make 400rwhp non intercooled at 18degrees. when it get hot youll pob loose 4 to 5 degrees easily, on our motor your looking at 20 to 25 h.p easy per degree of timing, so your 400hp car will now be a low 300 hp car, all because of the intake inlet tube. the reason this will happen is because the hotter your motor gets, more likley you will detonate, and the motor goes bye bye.so that but dyno will feel awesome, until you get the motor super hot, thenyoull be like this sucks.also long trips u have to think about, dont do a lot of track runs at one time, and so on. . i make 452 on 7 to 8 psi. im having to relocate all my intercooler crap to the trunk tomorrow because this floida heat is horrible right now, im loosing so much timing is insain. i also have 4.10 gears, and twin screw and 4.10s r absolutley amazing, however i have a complete suspension, so i pt the power to the ground, etier way this car is amazing with the gears.

I knew one of the experts would show up!:)

You are relocating your intercooler to the trunk? did I read that right?

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

the fact of the matter is being intercooled depends more on how you drive, and where your located. unfortunately your in florida. so with our summer temps you wlill need a intercooler, no matter what boost your on.i know many will disagree but trust me i know. what will happen if you dont go intercooled is your motor will get hot, and your i.e.t( intake enlet temp ) will go through the roof, and most likely in the tune, when it gets so hot, your computer will start retarding your timing. so lets say you make 400rwhp non intercooled at 18degrees. when it get hot youll pob loose 4 to 5 degrees easily, on our motor your looking at 20 to 25 h.p easy per degree of timing, so your 400hp car will now be a low 300 hp car, all because of the intake inlet tube. the reason this will happen is because the hotter your motor gets, more likley you will detonate, and the motor goes bye bye.so that but dyno will feel awesome, until you get the motor super hot, thenyoull be like this sucks.also long trips u have to think about, dont do a lot of track runs at one time, and so on. . i make 452 on 7 to 8 psi. im having to relocate all my intercooler crap to the trunk tomorrow because this floida heat is horrible right now, im loosing so much timing is insain. i also have 4.10 gears, and twin screw and 4.10s r absolutley amazing, however i have a complete suspension, so i pt the power to the ground, etier way this car is amazing with the gears.

Hey Moosestang

I just got back from Brenspeed today (got my 07 GT/CS dyno tuned). He gave me a test ride in their Saleen supercharger. The car is an Auto and Brent told me they had a conserved tune in it because they use it everyday to go 80 miles. Well it ran just like mine until he pushed the go pedal hard, it broke the tires loose in every gear and sounded like a beast. I would love to get a Saleen but I'm probably going to go with the Vortech kit. About 1200 to 1400 cheaper and the Vortech has all the power I want. I hope to geta ride in Tom281's Vortech power 06 this weekend. Also Brent said it's 200 less if you have a x-cal tuner already. I'll probably install it myself this winter or next.

dly 07 Black GT/CS


local://upfiles/40386/67BE9A5C6DCE4EE78EC307A5A183A287.jpg

im moving all coolant fluids to the trunk, running the tubes through the trunk, under the car, and then to the actuall intercooler, however if you moved your motor coolant to the back, and maybe got some sort of functional hood, you might be able to run the non intercooled s/c with no temp probs, however the cost of that and painting wouldnt be worth it, but moving the fluds to the trunk is a good way to keep temps down due to the fact that the fluids can remain cooler. that is not a pricey project, if you ever come up to jacksonville, you should come by the shop.

keep in mind moose, its florida summers that will hurt your motor non intercooled, youll be fine in winter, but youll most likely feel like you wasted your money more than half a year due to horrible temps, it kills timing big time

I was wondering if it would worth buying the HO kit and putting the new 7lb pulley they have for the new automatic kit whipple sells for people like us who dont want to push it? They dont sell it for the manual trans cars like me but I was planning on having it dyno tuned anyway.

I like the idea of the intercooler but not the increased cost and complexity of install.

Just a question, I know alot of people run the vortech non intercooled at 8 lbs of boost here in florida. Havent heard of them having a problems.

I should probably just go for the HO kit, they say it is fine for the manual trans and I havent readanyone sayingmy HO S/C blew my engine/trans/rear end etc. Maybe I will just have VMP tune it a little rich to be safe, like 11 to1 and just be happy.

Hammeron: How much more difficult would you say it is to install the HO kit compared to the non-intercooled kit?

Blackhorse05, you have a shop in Jacksonville?

What would you charge for a FRPP HO install?

Understanding I would want to be there and maybe get my hands a little dirty.

Moving the intercooler to the trunk! Nice!

ORIGINAL: sactown

Moving the intercooler to the trunk! Nice!


How much will this actually help though? I could see if you had the trunk closed off and had air ducts going to it, but my trunk gets plenty hot as it sits now.

Are we talking about putting the actual heat exchanger in the trunk or just the coolant tanks?

well certainly the intercooler hardware and the
fuel pump upgrade will take more time, but
nothing is really difficult

i did the install at my leisure in my garage, so there was no
streessing about time schedules.

i would add 1 day for the I.C. stuff and 1 day for the fuel,
if it is a DIY'er at home.




ORIGINAL: MustangGT0405

Hammeron: How much more difficult would you say it is to install the HO kit compared to the non-intercooled kit?

So you would say a 3 day schedule is pretty conservative.

I would have a team with me.

1 real car mechanic (ie does it for a living)
1 guy who is pretty handy
Me fairly handy
Try to find someone on here local who has installed one.

That way I should be set.

I appreciate all the help guys.

Have you thought about a snowperformance kit? You could just run it in the summer and it is stupid cheap, probably cheaper than moving all your junk to the trunk and will cool better. I'm not sure how reliable/save it is though. Or how much the methanol costs.

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

im moving all coolant fluids to the trunk, running the tubes through the trunk, under the car, and then to the actuall intercooler, however if you moved your motor coolant to the back, and maybe got some sort of functional hood, you might be able to run the non intercooled s/c with no temp probs, however the cost of that and painting wouldnt be worth it, but moving the fluds to the trunk is a good way to keep temps down due to the fact that the fluids can remain cooler. that is not a pricey project, if you ever come up to jacksonville, you should come by the shop.

I had a stage 2 meth kit I was going to put on but my installer said it really isn't worth it unless you are going to be running a lot of boost. He said it is more for a track car then a daily driver.

Yeah I wouldnt say it isnt necesaary but I couldnt see it hurting if you just had it come on at WOT.

I could be way off but I think you can use windshield washer fluid. Check the label it has methenol in it. That would be pretty cheap insurance, but I would wait and see if you need it first.

Well that is probably true for the most part, but he could use it just in the summer to get back lost performance due to heat. You can wire it directly to the maf and even use your windshield washer tank. It doesn't spray all the time. I'm talking about blackhorse's setup by the way, not the non-intercooled whipple.


I was reading the snowpeformance faqs and they said you could use washer fluid in a pinch because most are 40% methanol. I don't think I want to be spraying some generic washer fluid into my intake.:)



ORIGINAL: 2k6silvergt

I had a stage 2 meth kit I was going to put on but my installer said it really isn't worth it unless you are going to be running a lot of boost. He said it is more for a track car then a daily driver.

ok guys, meth on our cars with a twin screw/ rootsstyle s/c is not the best idea, meth is also boost activated in most cases and is a lot harder to control than it sounds, its prob been done, but we would of heard about by now. on a vortech type s/c, it could be done but you might mess upa whipple runiing it through the blades

as for moving intercoolant tank to the trunk, its onlt a couple hundred bucks, 100 to 150 for the tank, depending on size, and 50 bucks for the hoses, its very efficient because the water or coolant is in the trunk, not in the engine baty getting cooked by engine heat, and the lines run under the car, and the coolest air is under the car close to the ground.

as for vortech type s/c ,you dont built boost as fast and as hard as a roots style blower, thier for a non intercooled system will be a lilltle more efficient, but i stress a little, if you plan on racing it then youll ba back to sqaure one

I have to agree with Stkjock. But, that might just be a vert thing... Not too many people expect a Vortech supercharger in a vert.

hers a idea i had to for most of you guys considering a roots style non intercooled blower.

i dont know the difference in cost of the whipple non intercooled blower compared to the intercooled but here i go

these set ups are just like the terminator set ups, identical basically. if you bought a non itercooled set up, then look on ebay or whatever and find a used heat exchager, get a pump for it, and a little tank. 20 bucks of lines, and then wire the pump to constantly run as soon as the key turns, which is how mine is set up. all that will prob be less than 500 bucks and it will at least pump cooler water or coolant into the blower, i know the saleen is basicaly twin intercooled meaning before the blower and underneath the blower, i dont know about the whipple, but this way youll be getting something to it, and even have the capability to add ice if needed

if you didnt want to go that route, then mover the engine coolant to the trunk, not a costly process, and by doing that youll be able to keep the engint temps down as well

FWIW... from the discussions I had with Dan Carlson @ Realspeed here in NY when we discussed my S/C options.... there is no way I'd go with a non-inter-cooled kit living in the south. In NY I went with the H.O. Vortech so when the summer is here and we see 90+ I would not be robbed of much power..... in FL..... you get many more 90+ days.....

my .02

exactly the point. i hang with a guy that has a votech non itercooled. it made 392 rwhp, i forgot how much boost, and i have vidoes of him getting beat by a civic si, this was to weeks ago, heat kills it, his stang , just keep in mind is a 2 valve, but still

Your video of a Whipple ate WOT (not mine, just a Link I found on youtube).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYFo7XPpdgc
Another on a dyno @ 600+ HP
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dlPV6yYWfk

Crossover question. The Whipple HOcomes witha new crossover, nothing to break just bolt on.
If you have to send your HOWhipple for repair, your best bet is just wait until it is ready, it shouldnt be long, you can always take your car back to stock but you'll have to buy a couple hoses that are modified to install the Whipple and it will take you at least the same tame you invested in the installation.
I had a Paxton before in another car, not a good experience, after trying twin screw there is no way back, at leastfor street application (IMHO).
Sound Level. You wont know the whipple is there until you give it full throttle, but then you asked for it, and the sound is sweet, not annoying.
If you get the NI whipple, installation is a piece ok cake.
I dont know who told you whiple/Ford tunes are bad, on the contrary, they are very good and safe, for some people this means bad, but for the rest of us works very well, I was tempted to get a custom tune but then I decided not to take chances for a few extra HP, I already have problems putiingwhat I haveto the ground.

12psi, do you have a gauge, and has your car ever been on a dyno, doyou know your true rwhp, 12 psi is prety impressive, if i ran 12psi i would be well over five. i make 452 on 7 to 8 psi

Actually I am reading about 11 psi because I am at 3000ft altitude and have a 3' low restriction exhaust, and running 95 octane gas. I havent take it to a dyne yet, but I will soon. However I dont think my car is over 500rwhp. I'd say 475 to 490 but again without a proof I am just "gueestimating", sorry.

please let me know, pm or on the boards

So basically make some mounts for one of these (but a used one).

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260082363442&ssPageNam e=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=26008 2358688&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item& usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_p romot_widget


A good pump for $200 i think anda tank and i'm there? plus hose, but that's cheap. I think I could fab my own intercooler pretty cheap.

Here's a question, the coolant from the heat exchangeris pumped through the whipple when you buy the HO kit, but what's pumping through it with the NON IC kit? Nothing or is it connected to the engine coolant?

Thanks for the idea, never really thought of making my own.

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

hers a idea i had to for most of you guys considering a roots style non intercooled blower.

i dont know the difference in cost of the whipple non intercooled blower compared to the intercooled but here i go

these set ups are just like the terminator set ups, identical basically. if you bought a non itercooled set up, then look on ebay or whatever and find a used heat exchager, get a pump for it, and a little tank. 20 bucks of lines, and then wire the pump to constantly run as soon as the key turns, which is how mine is set up. all that will prob be less than 500 bucks and it will at least pump cooler water or coolant into the blower, i know the saleen is basicaly twin intercooled meaning before the blower and underneath the blower, i dont know about the whipple, but this way youll be getting something to it, and even have the capability to add ice if needed

if you didnt want to go that route, then mover the engine coolant to the trunk, not a costly process, and by doing that youll be able to keep the engint temps down as well

I see I can get a f150 lightning pump for $89 on ebay, that should work right? Now if the intercooler will fit I know I can fab some brackets. That just leaves a tank.

How about a coolant overflow tank for a toyota camary!:D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RADIATOR-OVERFLOW-TANK-toyota-CAMRY-92-93-coolant-part_W0QQitemZ110156132903QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6763Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Nothing is pumped through the SC on the NI whipple version, I assume the compressor itself is the same, you'll probably need a couple nipples to connect the hoses to the compressor body.

ORIGINAL: jrm1900

Nothing is pumped through the SC on the NI whipple version, I assume the compressor itself is the same, you'll probably need a couple nipples to connect the hoses to the compressor body.


so is the inlet/outlet plugged or something? I guess i'll have to wait and see when/if I get it. YPS still hasn't excepted my offer.

I think I found a winner on the coolant tank, I assume any coolant overflow tank will work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-TAURUS-SABLE-COOLANT-OVERFLOW-TANK-2000-2004_W0QQitemZ130140653089QQihZ003QQcategoryZ33602 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Dare I say that rpmoutlet has a cobra heat exchanger for $199

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/03cobraheat.htm

Now is that little ford lightning water pump going to be able to pump the coolant to the trunk and back, assuming I can't fit the tank in the engine compartment or would rather put it in the trunk.

the blower shoyuld have a inlet and a outlet, it might have a block but nothing crazy, they sell the kits for upgrades, so i asume its ready to go. you dont need a crazy pump becase the travel isnt that far, a lightning pump would work, its prob the same pump in the cobra. the air hits the h/e while the pump circulates the coolant through the blower. it should work, i thought about it today as i was thinking about this thread.

2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH

THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK

as long as thier is enough fluid in the lines, the pump will do its job. even easier since you have to wire it to always work when the key is turned, all you need is a live wire that turns off when you turn the car off, but gets power as soon as the key is turned

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05


2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH

THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK


+ 1 you are totally correct, the pump also need a relay, here you have a few pics to ilustrate the point:


local://upfiles/60520/53C3D682E2354B20ADF936E1CCEB4B69.gif

local://upfiles/60520/F413D126B39C49818D9E6AA94E33A5E3.jpg

local://upfiles/60520/3B2A5A0DCDEC429F8DAEC5FAA6010E68.jpg

local://upfiles/60520/434096C75BCF447CACF2BDB19E57C360.jpg

I could be wrong, but I think even the NON IC whipple kit has you change the thermostat to a 160, not sure though. I could always wire the pump to come on with the cooling fan.

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

the blower shoyuld have a inlet and a outlet, it might have a block but nothing crazy, they sell the kits for upgrades, so i asume its ready to go. you dont need a crazy pump becase the travel isnt that far, a lightning pump would work, its prob the same pump in the cobra. the air hits the h/e while the pump circulates the coolant through the blower. it should work, i thought about it today as i was thinking about this thread.

2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH

THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK

ORIGINAL: moosestang

I could be wrong, but I think even the NON IC whipple kit has you change the thermostat to a 160, not sure though. I could always wire the pump to come on with the cooling fan.

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

the blower shoyuld have a inlet and a outlet, it might have a block but nothing crazy, they sell the kits for upgrades, so i asume its ready to go. you dont need a crazy pump becase the travel isnt that far, a lightning pump would work, its prob the same pump in the cobra. the air hits the h/e while the pump circulates the coolant through the blower. it should work, i thought about it today as i was thinking about this thread.

2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH

THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK



Nope the pump works all the time and has nothing to do with the fans, the engine runs, thenthe pump runs, actually as soon as you turn the key to the "on" position the pump will start even if the engine didnt.

moose this plan will work. all you have to do is one thing.

CALL WHIPPLE OR WHATEVER, AND GET THE DIMENSIONS ON THE INTERCOOLER, NOT THE FRONT MOUNT. THIS CAN BE DONE VERY CHEAPLY, GET THOSE DIMENSION, AND GET THE DENINSIONS OF THE WHIPPLE KITS OF THE LIGHNING VERSION AND COBRA, IM WILLING TO BET WHIPPLE DIDNT CHANGE THE SIZE, IF NOT YOU CAN FIND ONE CHEAP, AND YOUR NOW INTERCOOLED

ORIGINAL: jrm1900

ORIGINAL: moosestang

I could be wrong, but I think even the NON IC whipple kit has you change the thermostat to a 160, not sure though. I could always wire the pump to come on with the cooling fan.

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

the blower shoyuld have a inlet and a outlet, it might have a block but nothing crazy, they sell the kits for upgrades, so i asume its ready to go. you dont need a crazy pump becase the travel isnt that far, a lightning pump would work, its prob the same pump in the cobra. the air hits the h/e while the pump circulates the coolant through the blower. it should work, i thought about it today as i was thinking about this thread.

2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH

THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK



Nope the pump works all the time and has nothing to do with the fans, the engine runs, thenthe pump runs, actually as soon as you turn the key to the "on" position the pump will start even if the engine didnt.


good, not all blowers wire the pump that way, some pumps are on its own thermostat

In that case the water pump should have it's own dedicated air charge temp sensor because the only function of the IC is to cool down the air charge to get lower temperatures at higher boost levelsand avoid detonation, it is not related to coolant temperature. However at 6 psi the IC is not even needed and will not provide a significant HP increase. Then if you go beyond 6psi you will need to upgrade your fuel pump and add larger injectors, new tune etc and it is then when the IC becomes a necessity.

ORIGINAL: jrm1900

In that case the water pump should have it's own dedicated air charge temp sensor because the only function of the IC is to cool down the air charge to get lower temperatures at higher boost levelsand avoid detonation, it is not related to coolant temperature. However at 6 psi the IC is not even needed and will not provide a significant HP increase. Then if you go beyond 6psi you will need to upgrade your fuel pump and add larger injectors, new tune etc and it is then when the IC becomes a necessity.


Well I'm going to run it with no intercooler at first, but for the price I could intercool it for all of $250 if I needed to. $90 pump, $90 cobraheat exchanger(used), $30 for a coolant tank of your choice and figure $40 for hose/clamps. If it even picked up 20 more hp it would be worth it for $250, sh!t I paid $500 for 20hp with my CAI/tuner. I could always add the better fluidyne heat exchanger for $250 brand new if I needed a larger unit.

you might need the intercooler under the blower,

Ahhhhh, what?

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

you might need the intercooler under the blower,

^ cool ^

:)didn't know ya could do it...


he means the "core" under the compressor

Not to state the obvious.....But, there are three different locations in the "loop" for intercooler fluid (1) the actual intercooler(on a twinscrews...is under the compressor as hammer stated), (2) Intercooler reservior tank (beside the radiator, or <insert location>, etc...) and the (3) heat exchanger (under the radiator) ;)

we know that but thanks, i think all you ned is a standard whipple intercool under the blower, in the valley, so you can run the fluid, it would so work

ORIGINAL: blackhorse05

we know that but thanks, i think all you ned is a standard whipple intercool under the blower, in the valley, so you can run the fluid, it would so work


I thought the intercooler was allready under the compressor. It's one big block of aluminum. So now i'm wondering if I want to intercool my non ic whipple do I have to buy something else and remove the blower from the aluminum manifold? You guys have me all confused, once I get the blower i'll know more.

moose, if you purchase a non-ic kit, it will not
have that hunk of aluminum under the compressor.

if you decide to intercool at a later time, you will
have to lift the compressor out (not a big deal) to
mount the "core"


these are some of the reasons, i simply went HO to start
with.....less work down the road......


* you may find tho, that after running the 6psi kit, you
may be totally satisfied with the 400rwhp and that, will be
that....


[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

I didn't realize there was an actual removable core under the compressor. I thought coolant just ran through passages in the actual aluminum intake manifold that the blower sits on. Shows what I know.

It seems YPS doesn't monitor their ebay auctions. My offer on the non IC kit will expire in 1 hour. I'm going to make a $5400 offer on the intercooled one they asking $5750 for. Now i'm wondering if I can put a 8lb pulley on that kit and still run the whipple tune.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

moose, if you purchase a non-ic kit, it will not
have that hunk of aluminum under the compressor.

if you decide to intercool at a later time, you will
have to lift the compressor out (not a big deal) to
mount the "core"


these are some of the reasons, i simply went HO to start
with.....less work down the road......


* you may find tho, that after running the 6psi kit, you
may be totally satisfied with the 400rwhp and that, will be
that....


[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

moose ol' friend

let's get down to brass tacks and let's stop
beatin' round the bush, shall we :D

get the mf'n HO kit! black or polished, i don't
care which


there i said it! :)

I found some pics of a whipple install on another forum. Shows the intercooler.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=63304

ORIGINAL: hammeron

moose ol' friend

let's get down to brass tacks and let's stop
beatin' round the bush, shall we :D

get the mf'n HO kit! black or polished, i don't
care which


there i said it! :)

yep, that's a black HO (intercooled) kit

$5675 is the cheapest I can find the HO kit, that's more than I really want to spend, especially since I'd just lower the boost anyway.:eek:


I take that back, here it is for $4989. I'd feel more comfortable if the picture was of an 05+ kit.:eek:

http://www.aaxel.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=WK-200725B&Category_Code=whipple_supercharger_ford_mu stang_05-06&Store_Code=AX

Nevermind, that's the tuner kit, duh



ORIGINAL: hammeron

moose ol' friend

let's get down to brass tacks and let's stop
beatin' round the bush, shall we :D

get the mf'n HO kit! black or polished, i don't
care which


there i said it! :)

that's a tuner kit...


*TUNER KITS DO NOT INCLUDE: flash tool, injectors, fuel pump,
fuel pump driver or fuel pump harness.

Yeah, i just noticed that.:)I edited it.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

that's a tuner kit...


*TUNER KITS DO NOT INCLUDE: flash tool, injectors, fuel pump,
fuel pump driver or fuel pump harness.

Here it is for $5449, i have no experience with this company though.

http://www.fawcettperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=398{9}106

that is a nice price

when you find the best price possible, i'd email
lethal and just ask if they'll match it....

your looking for Part # WK-200750B

never hurts to ask

I live in florida, so i'm looking at paying over$300 in taxes to buy from them.:( That part number they give doesn't look right.

ORIGINAL: hammeron

that is a nice price

when you find the best price possible, i'd email
lethal and just ask if they'll match it....

your looking for Part # WK-200750B

never hurts to ask