Have you thought about a snowperformance kit? You could just run it in the summer and it is stupid cheap, probably cheaper than moving all your junk to the trunk and will cool better. I'm not sure how reliable/save it is though. Or how much the methanol costs.
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ORIGINAL: blackhorse05
im moving all coolant fluids to the trunk, running the tubes through the trunk, under the car, and then to the actuall intercooler, however if you moved your motor coolant to the back, and maybe got some sort of functional hood, you might be able to run the non intercooled s/c with no temp probs, however the cost of that and painting wouldnt be worth it, but moving the fluds to the trunk is a good way to keep temps down due to the fact that the fluids can remain cooler. that is not a pricey project, if you ever come up to jacksonville, you should come by the shop.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
I had a stage 2 meth kit I was going to put on but my installer said it really isn't worth it unless you are going to be running a lot of boost. He said it is more for a track car then a daily driver.
Yeah I wouldnt say it isnt necesaary but I couldnt see it hurting if you just had it come on at WOT.
I could be way off but I think you can use windshield washer fluid. Check the label it has methenol in it. That would be pretty cheap insurance, but I would wait and see if you need it first.
< Message edited by MustangGT0405 -- 8/10/2007 10:09:26 AM >
Well that is probably true for the most part, but he could use it just in the summer to get back lost performance due to heat. You can wire it directly to the maf and even use your windshield washer tank. It doesn't spray all the time. I'm talking about blackhorse's setup by the way, not the non-intercooled whipple.
I was reading the snowpeformance faqs and they said you could use washer fluid in a pinch because most are 40% methanol. I don't think I want to be spraying some generic washer fluid into my intake.
quote:
ORIGINAL: 2k6silvergt
I had a stage 2 meth kit I was going to put on but my installer said it really isn't worth it unless you are going to be running a lot of boost. He said it is more for a track car then a daily driver.
< Message edited by moosestang -- 8/10/2007 10:14:46 AM >
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
ok guys, meth on our cars with a twin screw/ rootsstyle s/c is not the best idea, meth is also boost activated in most cases and is a lot harder to control than it sounds, its prob been done, but we would of heard about by now. on a vortech type s/c, it could be done but you might mess upa whipple runiing it through the blades
as for moving intercoolant tank to the trunk, its onlt a couple hundred bucks, 100 to 150 for the tank, depending on size, and 50 bucks for the hoses, its very efficient because the water or coolant is in the trunk, not in the engine baty getting cooked by engine heat, and the lines run under the car, and the coolest air is under the car close to the ground.
as for vortech type s/c , you dont built boost as fast and as hard as a roots style blower, thier for a non intercooled system will be a lilltle more efficient, but i stress a little, if you plan on racing it then youll ba back to sqaure one
hers a idea i had to for most of you guys considering a roots style non intercooled blower.
i dont know the difference in cost of the whipple non intercooled blower compared to the intercooled but here i go
these set ups are just like the terminator set ups, identical basically. if you bought a non itercooled set up, then look on ebay or whatever and find a used heat exchager, get a pump for it, and a little tank. 20 bucks of lines, and then wire the pump to constantly run as soon as the key turns, which is how mine is set up. all that will prob be less than 500 bucks and it will at least pump cooler water or coolant into the blower, i know the saleen is basicaly twin intercooled meaning before the blower and underneath the blower, i dont know about the whipple, but this way youll be getting something to it, and even have the capability to add ice if needed
if you didnt want to go that route, then mover the engine coolant to the trunk, not a costly process, and by doing that youll be able to keep the engint temps down as well
FWIW... from the discussions I had with Dan Carlson @ Realspeed here in NY when we discussed my S/C options.... there is no way I'd go with a non-inter-cooled kit living in the south. In NY I went with the H.O. Vortech so when the summer is here and we see 90+ I would not be robbed of much power..... in FL..... you get many more 90+ days.....
my .02
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Tngstn 06GT-5 spd -Vortech HO S/C-Tuned by Realspeed Auto You can never have too much power, just not enough traction. 12.33 @ 112.3 - 1.71 60"
exactly the point. i hang with a guy that has a votech non itercooled. it made 392 rwhp, i forgot how much boost, and i have vidoes of him getting beat by a civic si, this was to weeks ago, heat kills it, his stang , just keep in mind is a 2 valve, but still
< Message edited by blackhorse05 -- 8/10/2007 11:35:50 AM >
Crossover question. The Whipple HO comes with a new crossover, nothing to break just bolt on. If you have to send your HO Whipple for repair, your best bet is just wait until it is ready, it shouldnt be long, you can always take your car back to stock but you'll have to buy a couple hoses that are modified to install the Whipple and it will take you at least the same tame you invested in the installation. I had a Paxton before in another car, not a good experience, after trying twin screw there is no way back, at least for street application (IMHO). Sound Level. You wont know the whipple is there until you give it full throttle, but then you asked for it, and the sound is sweet, not annoying. If you get the NI whipple, installation is a piece ok cake. I dont know who told you whiple/Ford tunes are bad, on the contrary, they are very good and safe, for some people this means bad, but for the rest of us works very well, I was tempted to get a custom tune but then I decided not to take chances for a few extra HP, I already have problems putiing what I have to the ground.
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2007 SIlver GT Whipple HO SC 12 psi Stainless Works LT Headers, offroad Steeda Shocks and Struts Steeda Anti Sway bars and brackets Steeda LCA Power House Aluminum Drive Shaft & Torque limiter MGW Shifter Slotted brakes 13" F&R
12psi, do you have a gauge, and has your car ever been on a dyno, doyou know your true rwhp, 12 psi is prety impressive, if i ran 12psi i would be well over five. i make 452 on 7 to 8 psi
Actually I am reading about 11 psi because I am at 3000ft altitude and have a 3' low restriction exhaust, and running 95 octane gas. I havent take it to a dyne yet, but I will soon. However I dont think my car is over 500rwhp. I'd say 475 to 490 but again without a proof I am just "gueestimating", sorry.
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2007 SIlver GT Whipple HO SC 12 psi Stainless Works LT Headers, offroad Steeda Shocks and Struts Steeda Anti Sway bars and brackets Steeda LCA Power House Aluminum Drive Shaft & Torque limiter MGW Shifter Slotted brakes 13" F&R
A good pump for $200 i think and a tank and i'm there? plus hose, but that's cheap. I think I could fab my own intercooler pretty cheap.
Here's a question, the coolant from the heat exchanger is pumped through the whipple when you buy the HO kit, but what's pumping through it with the NON IC kit? Nothing or is it connected to the engine coolant?
Thanks for the idea, never really thought of making my own.
quote:
ORIGINAL: blackhorse05
hers a idea i had to for most of you guys considering a roots style non intercooled blower.
i dont know the difference in cost of the whipple non intercooled blower compared to the intercooled but here i go
these set ups are just like the terminator set ups, identical basically. if you bought a non itercooled set up, then look on ebay or whatever and find a used heat exchager, get a pump for it, and a little tank. 20 bucks of lines, and then wire the pump to constantly run as soon as the key turns, which is how mine is set up. all that will prob be less than 500 bucks and it will at least pump cooler water or coolant into the blower, i know the saleen is basicaly twin intercooled meaning before the blower and underneath the blower, i dont know about the whipple, but this way youll be getting something to it, and even have the capability to add ice if needed
if you didnt want to go that route, then mover the engine coolant to the trunk, not a costly process, and by doing that youll be able to keep the engint temps down as well
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
I see I can get a f150 lightning pump for $89 on ebay, that should work right? Now if the intercooler will fit I know I can fab some brackets. That just leaves a tank.
How about a coolant overflow tank for a toyota camary!
< Message edited by moosestang -- 8/10/2007 1:48:10 PM >
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
Nothing is pumped through the SC on the NI whipple version, I assume the compressor itself is the same, you'll probably need a couple nipples to connect the hoses to the compressor body.
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2007 SIlver GT Whipple HO SC 12 psi Stainless Works LT Headers, offroad Steeda Shocks and Struts Steeda Anti Sway bars and brackets Steeda LCA Power House Aluminum Drive Shaft & Torque limiter MGW Shifter Slotted brakes 13" F&R
Nothing is pumped through the SC on the NI whipple version, I assume the compressor itself is the same, you'll probably need a couple nipples to connect the hoses to the compressor body.
so is the inlet/outlet plugged or something? I guess i'll have to wait and see when/if I get it. YPS still hasn't excepted my offer.
I think I found a winner on the coolant tank, I assume any coolant overflow tank will work?
Now is that little ford lightning water pump going to be able to pump the coolant to the trunk and back, assuming I can't fit the tank in the engine compartment or would rather put it in the trunk.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
the blower shoyuld have a inlet and a outlet, it might have a block but nothing crazy, they sell the kits for upgrades, so i asume its ready to go. you dont need a crazy pump becase the travel isnt that far, a lightning pump would work, its prob the same pump in the cobra. the air hits the h/e while the pump circulates the coolant through the blower. it should work, i thought about it today as i was thinking about this thread.
2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH
THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK
as long as thier is enough fluid in the lines, the pump will do its job. even easier since you have to wire it to always work when the key is turned, all you need is a live wire that turns off when you turn the car off, but gets power as soon as the key is turned
2 ISSUES I HAVE. I KNOW THE SALEEN HAS A INTRCOOLER IN THE VALLEY UNDER THE S/C, I DONT KNOW ABOUT WHIPPLE, YOU NEED TO SEE WHAT THE I/C VERSION COMES WITH
THE SECOND IS YOU WILL HAVE TO WIRE THE PUMP TO TURN ON AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE KEY, THIS IS BECASE YOU WONT HAVE ALL THE COMPUTER CRAP WITH THE WHIPPLE TO RUN A THERMASTAT. SO IF THE PUMP ALWAYS RUNS, THE BETTER ANYWAY, NEXT IS CHANGE YOUR MOTOR THERMOSTATE, 170 OR SOMETHING. I THINK IT COULD WORK
+ 1 you are totally correct, the pump also need a relay, here you have a few pics to ilustrate the point:
Printable Version
RE: Question for those with vortech SC? - 
