like the title says how is it done? i had the door panel off today and it looks like mounting depth clearance shouldn't be too much of an issue, but how do you fit a 6.5 inch circle in a 5x8 inch rectangle. im assuming you can make a mounting bracket and just cut a litte off the sides of the stock hole. also how do you trim the door panel to make this work? anyone have any info or links?
thanks peace
p.s. car is 02 gt (manual so no kicks) with mach 460 getting removed. want to try to put mid driver in stockish location and run tweeter from stock position in bottom of a-pillar.
_____________________________
'02 GT K&N drop in Flowmaster A/T cat-back Diablosport Predator MGW
1. Trace the original speaker on some sort of HDF sheet and mark where the screws go. (I have used the clipboards from the wal mart supply section) 2. Cut out that shape with a jig saw 3.Use the grill mountig ring and the tweeter to determine where the woofer and tweet will fit best on the shape. (I usually use two of the original mounting holes and put two more in the hdf adapter. 4. Trace the inside of the grill ring where your speaker will fit best. 5. Drill a hole in the middle of the traced circle and then cut out that shape from the inside. 6. Drill a hole or cut out a location for the tweeter to go. 7. Put your speakers in.
Posts: 4264
Joined: 4/10/2006 From: San Leandro, CA Status: offline
FYI, depending on your component system, the best place for your tweeters is not neccessarilly (sp?) where the stock ones were. I've tried that one before. This actually messes up your sound because the tweeters are now closer to your ears than the woofer, so your higher notes hit your ears before the midbass does. Also, it makes them sound very harsh because they are so close to your ear in a Mustang. I will go out tomorrow and take some pics of my tweeters. They are in a temporary mount, down on the kick panels. I'm eventually going to flush them in/build fiberglass pods for them. Right now, they are just velcroed on...yes kinda dangerous for passengers coming in and out (I just tell them to be careful), but it allows me to reposition them until I get them "just right" (at least to MY ears). I would really recommend you to do something similar. Get some of that stick-on velcro and leave yourself a couple feet of speaker wire from the Xover to the tweeter and place velcro in typical mounting spots for tweeters. Try each position out for a few days and see which one works best for you.
FYI, depending on your component system, the best place for your tweeters is not neccessarilly (sp?) where the stock ones were. I've tried that one before. This actually messes up your sound because the tweeters are now closer to your ears than the woofer, so your higher notes hit your ears before the midbass does. Also, it makes them sound very harsh because they are so close to your ear in a Mustang. I will go out tomorrow and take some pics of my tweeters. They are in a temporary mount, down on the kick panels. I'm eventually going to flush them in/build fiberglass pods for them. Right now, they are just velcroed on...yes kinda dangerous for passengers coming in and out (I just tell them to be careful), but it allows me to reposition them until I get them "just right" (at least to MY ears). I would really recommend you to do something similar. Get some of that stick-on velcro and leave yourself a couple feet of speaker wire from the Xover to the tweeter and place velcro in typical mounting spots for tweeters. Try each position out for a few days and see which one works best for you.
Just so you know laser, I am impressed with how much you have picked up in the last few months.
And yes, having the tweeters too far from the woofer can make things a little iffy, but for most listens it is the easiest and works out ok, ideally you would probably want them mounted as close to the midwoofer as possible but aimed towards the listener. So if you have or can make pods for the tweeters you have, aim them in your direction. Depending on what set you have, alot of them now days come with pods with a 45ish degree angle, you could simply mount them facing towards the listeners in the car.
best place for the tweet is at the EXACT same place as the woofer. There is room there for the tweet as well as the woofer. I am getting ready to put my 6.5's in and will post pics(hopefully this week/next week) but I do have that covered in my truck page, let me see if I can find it....
FYI, depending on your component system, the best place for your tweeters is not neccessarilly (sp?) where the stock ones were. I've tried that one before. This actually messes up your sound because the tweeters are now closer to your ears than the woofer, so your higher notes hit your ears before the midbass does. Also, it makes them sound very harsh because they are so close to your ear in a Mustang. I will go out tomorrow and take some pics of my tweeters. They are in a temporary mount, down on the kick panels. I'm eventually going to flush them in/build fiberglass pods for them. Right now, they are just velcroed on...yes kinda dangerous for passengers coming in and out (I just tell them to be careful), but it allows me to reposition them until I get them "just right" (at least to MY ears). I would really recommend you to do something similar. Get some of that stick-on velcro and leave yourself a couple feet of speaker wire from the Xover to the tweeter and place velcro in typical mounting spots for tweeters. Try each position out for a few days and see which one works best for you.
Some good advice here.
In addition, I would add, don’t forget to try mounting the tweeter below the mid-bass. This has been done with success in the past. Phase shift occurs when a driver producing a higher frequency is mounted on the same horizontal plane as a driver producing lower frequencies. By mounting the tweeter above and on the same horizontal plane you will actually push the sound stage lower. You can see some attempts at fixing this problem in high end home audio where they have mounted the tweeter further back than the mid and the mid further back than the sub. The end result is that all the magnets are on the same horizontal plane. If available, mounting the tweeter in the center of the mid will help with phase shift as well (also seen in home audio). We used to build “bridges” across the mid to mount the tweeter over the mid. Many years ago, I started to see concentrically mounted tweeter options on good separates. Please note here, I am NOT talking about cheap co-axes.
If this causes an extremely low sound stage, you can mount another set of tweeters in the factory location with an L-pad or bandpassed crossover on them. That should pull the stage up some.
I have been told that phase shift can also be addressed with custom built crossovers. Quite honestly, that is out of my abilities.
I have put woofers in enclosures to tighten up a sloppy midrange response. They were completely sealed, the woofers were made for IB, but they sounded much better with the enclosures.
Posts: 4264
Joined: 4/10/2006 From: San Leandro, CA Status: offline
Thanks seight . I originally had my Type-R components mounted in the way that James described (kinda like a knock-off "Braxial" arrangement), but the only thing is their really wasn't enough room to leave clearance for the cone behind a stock Mustang door panel, so they had to be mounted very close to the woofer and the cone would actually hit the back of the tweeter mount on bass-heavy tracks. Then I switched them up to the sail-panel and was VERY unhappy with the sound that gave me. I really like where my tweeters are now, with the exception of the sound stage being a little low. I'm going to try mounting them lower like James suggested...the shop that installed my stuff has done a Ferrari with a similar arrangement. I think they used MB Quarts for that car. Anyway, the woofer was mounted in the door like usual, but the tweeters were in pods almost on the floor by the kick panel, aiming towards the sunroof area. I'm going to try that out and see if it fixes the sound stage. If not, I'm looking into a "Up-Stage" kit from CDT.
Was thinking about the Q-logic pods - but not sure how sturdy they are or if they'll work with the mid-bass drivers (advertised as 6.75")
Also concerned about potentially using the larger 7" stock mount for one of the driver in the 3-way implementation - can't find any mounting depth information, in terms of how much depth do I have to work with in the stock config...
How have the other members of the forum handled a CDT install, or a 3-way component install in a 2007 coupe?
the q-pods are ok but I would not use them without dynamatting the back of them to give them a little more bulk. I show can show how I made my kick panels for my 3 ways in my 94 if you want to try and make a set yourself.
I had looked at the upstage kit as well but never listened to them. CDT is a little confusing with the 1000 different types of speakers they offer....
the q-pods are ok but I would not use them without dynamatting the back of them to give them a little more bulk. I show can show how I made my kick panels for my 3 ways in my 94 if you want to try and make a set yourself.
I had looked at the upstage kit as well but never listened to them. CDT is a little confusing with the 1000 different types of speakers they offer....
Good friend of mine bought a set about a year ago - he's much more into the car audio scene than I am (yet here I am at 11PM posting to a forum...)
Anyway, he swears by their greatness. I'd be buying them without any preview - as is the case in the online internet ordering world.
Agreed about the difficulty in figuring out their lines - I just went for their best. Considered Dynaudio, Focal, and briefly Morel and Polk. I like the idea of 400 Watts RMS handling with a 100Hz Filter and the concept of the stagefront technology/imaging. The CDT website seems like there is some grammatical problems as well, and the overall website is rather poorly designed. Not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing (more effort spent on speaker design than web site design?)
Regardless, I am pretty much married to the set I intend to buy, but don't want to pay a custom installer 1500 to build a custom pod / door mount for the things. I was hoping that a simple pre-fabbed carbon fiber kick panel pod for the 4" and 1" and door mount for the 6.75" would be good - not sure if the imaging would be the best for the 6.75"s though. I am not quite ready to take the plunge into ripping apart my new gt500 doors just yet and slathering fiberglass resin all over - but for 1500 I might be...
I am putting my 6.5 in my door with my diamond hex 3 ways and I am not worried about it. It is right next to the kick speakers with the door closed and it is a little closer but since I am going to bi-amp them it will take a little while but I should be able to tune them. check out m cardomain site for pics.
Printable Version
fitting 6.5" comps in front doors - 
. I originally had my Type-R components mounted in the way that James described (kinda like a knock-off "Braxial" arrangement), but the only thing is their really wasn't enough room to leave clearance for the cone behind a stock Mustang door panel, so they had to be mounted very close to the woofer and the cone would actually hit the back of the tweeter mount on bass-heavy tracks. Then I switched them up to the sail-panel and was VERY unhappy with the sound that gave me. I really like where my tweeters are now, with the exception of the sound stage being a little low. I'm going to try mounting them lower like James suggested...the shop that installed my stuff has done a Ferrari with a similar arrangement. I think they used MB Quarts for that car. Anyway, the woofer was mounted in the door like usual, but the tweeters were in pods almost on the floor by the kick panel, aiming towards the sunroof area. I'm going to try that out and see if it fixes the sound stage. If not, I'm looking into a "Up-Stage" kit from CDT.
