Johnnie D

Ok i did i search and couldnt find my answer...here is what i have going on in the shop today..eibach pro with tokico d-specs, BMR adjustable uca, BMR adj panhard and the BMR relocation brackets...question what hole should they put the LCA's into, the lowest ones???

Thanks

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2007 GT Alloy Metallic
Steeda UDP's
Pypes O/R H w/ Violators
C&L with XCal 2 Brenspeed
CMCV Plates
Truetrac Posi FRPP 4.10's
Hurst
B

Rudiepoo1

Actually for street it's suggested to use the upper hole but for higher horsepower and race applications the lower is suggested to better assist in getting that power to the ground.

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Dennis
2007 Tungsten Grey GT - MAC, UPR, MGW, Silverhorse Racing, Scott Drake , Xenon , Spyder aluminum driveshaft w/BMR driveshaft loop, 4.10's, Detroit Truetrac, FRPP axle girdle, full BMR suspension in the works, & embroidered "GT" headrest wraps.

ren274u

Handling wise make it as level with the ground. Drag racing go lower.

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2006 Vista Blue Mustang GT
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F1Fan

Hi JohnnieD,

Well I may be too late but I havesomegood suggestions for you on your suspension system setup. You seem to be stuck on BMR parts and there is nothing wrong with BMR partsreally but they are a drag racing oriented company and do not design their suspension parts forroad course handling but for the drag strip. Sure, much of the BMR suspension partscan cross over because it's basicallydesigned and built O.K.for road work butisfar fromideal for road course use.

So assumming you only have aBMR state of mind,while you have the car in the shop have theminstall a BMR UCA mount and use the alternate UCA mounting position. The other mounting hole in BMR's UCA mount increases your anti-squat and helps to give you back some ofyour lost rear traction when launching off the line and powering out of corners due to the loss of anti-squat also called IC (instant center).Regarding your LCA relocation brackets, for the best street and road course handling you want to position the LCA's in the mounting position that puts your LCA's perfectly parallel with the ground with a half tank of gas or as you will find with Pro-Kit springs,slightly pointing uptowards the rear of the car. This position will give youa stable yet neutral handling rear axle free of major rear axle oversteer or rear axle understeer while cornering. You DO NOT want the LCA's pointing down towards the rear of the car or you will have nasty rear axle oversteer! This can bevery dangerous and gets worse as you speeds increase due to increasing weight transfer as speeds increase. The downward pointing position is for drag strip use only and you should reposition the LCA's for street use or your car will exibit very poor mannerswhen cornering hard and this can be very danerous in an emergency situation.

As I mentioned above the BMRLCArelocation mounts are not ideal withEibach' Pro-Kit springs because they do not have enoughadjustmentpoints allow optimal adjustment. Steeda makes a better LCA relocation bracket that has twice as many adjustment positions which starthigher/closer to the stock positionallowing youto getcloser to the ideal adjustment position. Steeda also makes areally good UCA/UCA mount kit calledthe Steeda adjustable Comp/Street UCAkit that is superiour to the BMR UCA and UCA mount.This new adjustable heavy duty mount and redesigned UCA is better inmostevery way than the BMR parts. The key features are;heavy-duty UCA mount improves reliability and location, UCAadjustment position repositioned farther forwardfor increased anti-squat, longercontrol armreduces pinion angle changes and braking wheelhop, spherical bearingor 3-piece dual durometer bushing increases control and reduces NVH over common 1 or 2-piece bushings controlling accelleration wheel hop, pinion angle adjustable in car.When you combine the BMR UCA mount and theBMR weld-in LCA relocation brackets you will have a pretty good combination for traction off the line but for street and road course handling the BMR parts are not as well designed.

One last bit of advice about your suspension. Make sure you orderreplacemnt fasteners FROMTHE FORD DEALERfor all of the parts you are removing andreplacing including any partsthat will be loosened to install the new parts. Fordfactorymanuals areexplicit about this point and tell you to dispose of the fasteners as they are removedto prevent reuse of these parts. Isuggest that this precautionaryadvice is to protect them from the problems that will occure if and when one of these critical bolts and fasteners fails.What Ifound is that these are stretch bolts and once they have been through a couple of full torque cycles you need to toss them out because they have failed.What happens is that the bolt threads start to stretch and you cannot achive proper factory torquevalues which leaves the nut loose enough to fall off and thenthe bolt works its way out and then you have an accident due to stupidity on the part of the mechanic who tried to cut corners and save a few bucks. I know it sounds crazy but these bolt threads stretch and then you are SOL.You can try to reuse the bolts once but you have to be careful when torque is applied these fasteners.Work up to the spec torque in 2 or 3 steps up to 90% of the spec torque. Then try to achivethe factory spec'd torque value ith a know good torque wrench, if the torque wrench turns more than 90 degress or 1/4 of a turn and does not achive the full factory torque value those fasteners are shot andyou need to buy and installnewfasteners. DO NOT DRIVE the car with the fasteners in this condition.I hope this helps!

Cheerrs!

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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack

Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!

Stoenr

Johnnie, what did you end up doing?
Im not going with steeda's, becuase Im not welding them into place.
I will however be going with the BMR's along with the eibach pro kit and wondering what hole would be best. 1.5" drop im thinking it will be the lower hole.


<3 search funciton

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F1Fan

Hi Stoenr,

With a Pro-Kit spring set you need to use the upper holes, the lower holes are only really good on the drag strip. The problem with the lower adjustment holes is that this makes the car have severe roll oversteer whichis not exactly a happy place to be. On the street it is O.K. as long as you don't make any sudden turns, but if you do be careful.

HTH!

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2005 Mineral Grey Mustang GT Coupe, Premium, M5, ICAP, IUP, Active Anti-theft, LoJack

Mods: Gave up trying to make it all fit, but ask if interested!

Stoenr

Thanks, sure does help. I'd rather have the handling aspect vs maybe .05 off my 60 if I was lucky.

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Kobie

Uh o. Time to crawl under the car and check the control arm angle.

Kobie

Well... they are definitely pointing down in the back. Time to raise them one hole up.
Steeda sport springs, BMR relocation brackets with the arms bolted in the lowest hole.
Now maybe it will fit in the drive through wash again!!

Stoenr

Lol, the bracket it still the lowest point tho isnt it?
Auto Car washes are for minivans!

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