Posts: 1562
Joined: 7/5/2006 From: New Orleans Status: offline
Awesome write up taco! But just a suggestion, whenever I jack a vehicle up by the pumpkin, I always put a block of wood between the pumkin and the jack. Too much stress at one point on the pumpkin is no good.
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Whipple Crew-10psi-Spec II-BMR LCAs-Granatelli sway bar delete-Spydershaft-M/T 26x11.5x17-Hurst-Prothane Mounts-PMP Line locks-Flows-Thump_rrr-Moroso separator
ORIGINAL: TacoBill Until I get on it, I can't say with certainty whether or not this was a good cost vs SOTP mod. At worst, it'll look good on my show poster.
Test drive is complete.
All is well, no drivetrain vibration issues to speak of!
I do notice that the engine feels more connected to the rear wheels. A little hard to explain, but when torquing the throttle in the upper rpm range, the response is more immediate. All in all, I'm happy with this mod.
I discovered a riding/rubbing condition between the driveshaft and a stamped steel hump within the tunnel. Rubbing appears to be only superficial and no deep scratches or gouges exist at this time. I do believe that this occurred when I carried 2 passengers in the rear seats (~170 lbs combined) a month ago. Until I resolve this issue, NO rear passengers!
As previously noted, I have the Steeda Ultralite lowering springs which lowered the vehicle approx. 1" at the rear. As a precautionary measure, I relocated the e-brake cable bracket away from the center tunnel so there's no chance of the driveshaft to come in contact with the bolt head (on that bracket).
Relocation of this bracket can be accomplished without the removal of the driveshaft, although drilling the new hole can be quite challenging.
Stock location of e-brake cable support bracket
Bolt removal
Metal band around the cable sheathing was crimped in place by the factory. Slightly open up the bracket with a flat blade screwdriver so the bracket can slip over the band. Can use pliers to close the opening gap if necessary.
Protective tape applied to cable sheathing to avoid any rub-thru condition. I used a metallic tape, but duct tape should work fine.
I'm getting ready to install one of these driveshafts and I cannot find anywhere a 12mm 12point Crows Foot extension. I can find them in 6 point, but not 12. And the only one who, I've seen, carries a 12mm 12 point is Snap On in a kit for $100. Can anyone point me in the right direction or will a 6 point be fine? Thanks.
I'm getting ready to install one of these driveshafts and I cannot find anywhere a 12mm 12point Crows Foot extension. I can find them in 6 point, but not 12. And the only one who, I've seen, carries a 12mm 12 point is Snap On in a kit for $100. Can anyone point me in the right direction or will a 6 point be fine? Thanks.
I don't think it is necessary, i didn't use one, so I know it's not. I'm not sure what tacobill was using the crowsfoot for.
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
You guys are going to love that one piece driveshaft. Oddly enough, that and the steeda HD engine mounts were my favorite mods. Everything just feels solid and power is instantly applied to ground with those additions.
I'm getting ready to install one of these driveshafts and I cannot find anywhere a 12mm 12point Crows Foot extension. I can find them in 6 point, but not 12. And the only one who, I've seen, carries a 12mm 12 point is Snap On in a kit for $100. Can anyone point me in the right direction or will a 6 point be fine? Thanks.
Don't use a 6pt, it may slip and start stripping the bolt head. You can always use a closed end 12pt box wrench and 'estimate' your torque (aka.. real tight). A friend bought a 12pt ratcheting box end extension (open for a 3/8 drive) from the Snap-On guy, costs around $40.
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ORIGINAL: ThumperMX113
Bill, what are you going to do to fix that rubbing issue? Beat that hump in a little bit?
I haven't done it yet, but yes, the small center hump in the tunnel will need to be 'massaged' down a little bit.
Don't use a 6pt, it may slip and start stripping the bolt head. You can always use a closed end 12pt box wrench and 'estimate' your torque (aka.. real tight). A friend bought a 12pt ratcheting box end extension (open for a 3/8 drive) from the Snap-On guy, costs around $40.
so what are you using the crowsfoot on? I'm really lost here.
Edit: nevermind, i found it in your instructions. I guess the diameter of the coast driveshaft of the u-joints they use are different than the denny's shaft i installed. I had no problems using a 12 point socket with extension and didn't even need a universal joint or wobble extension.
< Message edited by moosestang -- 5/20/2008 5:06:20 PM >
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whipple HO SC,FRPP springs, Pypes mid mufflers, Che adj. LCA, hurst, 4.10's, 1 piece DS, spec stg 2 clutch. Accel coils 12.52@117.6mph so far with a 2.01 60 ft time(pre shaft, coils, clutch).
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RE: Coast Driveline 1-piece aluminum driveshaft install... - 
