i hear that if you upgrade to dual exhaust (true or with crossover, if it matters) you can lose lowend power unless you do other upgrades. now, if i was to get dual exhaust along with , say, gears at least - would i have that low end back (and then some)?
possibly also UD
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2003 True Blue convertible V6.
grill delete, chinspoiler
coming in - magnaflow catback, 4.10/t-lok, bilstein shocks/struts, MM subframes and an STB,
dont have a sig.
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you gain hp with larger diameters to a cetain extent because of less restrictive flow, but with larger diameter pipes comes less backpressure, and with less backpressure comes less bottom end. i dont think it will hurt your performance though unless you remove cats and have huge 3"pipes or something rediculous. you can always gain it back and then some with gears. gears are a great mod for the power for the buck ratio. i will do that sometime in the future. my magnaflows are coming in soon by the way. also a pulley would be good (i almost didnt see the ud).
you gain hp with larger diameters to a cetain extent because of less restrictive flow, but with larger diameter pipes comes less backpressure, and with less backpressure comes less bottom end. i dont think it will hurt your performance though unless you remove cats and have huge 3"pipes or something rediculous. you can always gain it back and then some with gears. gears are a great mod for the power for the buck ratio. i will do that sometime in the future. my magnaflows are coming in soon by the way. also a pulley would be good (i almost didnt see the ud).
Some of that is true. You can lose some low end power when going to dual exhaust because of the lack of back pressure. This is mainly only for stock 94-98 V6's. The 99+ flow WAY more air as seens by the 40+ hp increase. The 99+ might see a slight loss in tq, but you should also see a gain in hp up top, and whenyou're racing up top is where you want to be. If you shift at 5000rpms, you're shift will take you to about 3500rpms. The is your Mid-power range, so your loss in low end will be no effect. The only thing it will effect is your launch. And gears do NOT add power. All they do is get you through each gear faster at the ratio you buy. If you have your peak hp at 5000rpms and have stcok gears it's going to take you a lot longer to get to that 5000 rpms than it would with 3.73s. Also, removing your cats does not cause you to lose power either. If fact it could also cause you to add more power. On my car in the sig, I have NO cats. and I have a considerable amount of tq and hp. The only downfalls I see in setup are the shorty headers I have and the stupid single port intake. But both of those areas are already being looked at
When I installed my dual exhaust, my muff guy calc'd out the numbers and advised I go with 2.25" pipe. But he did say, if I was going to forced air, he suggested 2.5" with long tube headers.
But I will say, the 4:10's is what made mine quick. [sm=smiley20.gif]
i have had 2.5 inch pipes since i got the car. there was no power loss down low but a lot of gain up high. during my last dyno run the car put down 238.6 @ 5500 rwhp and 269.3 lb-ft of torque @3800 rpms. on top of that my freind is helping to install a prototype electric supercharger that his shop built. it flows around 1900 cfm of air at full power but i will be running it at 1/4 power to get 6 PSI. it activates at WOT and pulls 600 amps for 15 seconds before it shuts off automatically to prevent overheating.
i have had 2.5 inch pipes since i got the car. there was no power loss down low but a lot of gain up high. during my last dyno run the car put down 238.6 @ 5500 rwhp and 269.3 lb-ft of torque @3800 rpms. on top of that my freind is helping to install a prototype electric supercharger that his shop built. it flows around 1900 cfm of air at full power but i will be running it at 1/4 power to get 6 PSI. it activates at WOT and pulls 600 amps for 15 seconds before it shuts off automatically to prevent overheating.
You lost me at the end. It only runs for 15 seconds? So If guessing it's strickly for a quarter mile drag strip.
you can run it on the street but will need a high output alternator and some serious batteries. we are linking it through a 10 farad capacitor and an additional battery to keep it from draining the power from my car. he made three but one fried itself and the second was used on his drag car and made 29 PSI in about 1 second unregulated. the one going into my cr will be regulated with a pop-off valve, voltage regulator and a boost gauge rigged to cut power at anything above 10 PSI. i am expecting over 300 rwhp on the dyno with this thing, if it works right.
you can run it on the street but will need a high output alternator and some serious batteries. we are linking it through a 10 farad capacitor and an additional battery to keep it from draining the power from my car. he made three but one fried itself and the second was used on his drag car and made 29 PSI in about 1 second unregulated. the one going into my cr will be regulated with a pop-off valve, voltage regulator and a boost gauge rigged to cut power at anything above 10 PSI. i am expecting over 300 rwhp on the dyno with this thing, if it works right.
exhaust and low end power
