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gcroix -> RE: EFI 5.0L Swap (6/18/2008 10:48:45 AM)
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It''s taken 9+ years, but my ''66 Mustang coupe is FINALLY back on the road. Tired old 289 removed, 5.0L fuel injected engine put in. Got rid of the 40 year old C4 and put in a modern AOD transmission too.
It started in 1997, in North Carolina. Two weeks away from getting married, driving past a Chevrolet used car lot, I spotted a white 66 coupe. I had owned 65 Mustangs before, two of them. Test drove it, loved it. I said I''d buy it if they financed it. Didn''t think they would, but they did. (I wouldn''t do that part of the deal again, though!
Some of the things I had to figure out/come with way to make it work:
I used an external fuel pump, simple set up, no surge tank, or low pressure pump/high pressure combination.
Water pump…some pumps are clockwise rotation, some are counterclockwise. I had to think about my setup and get the right pump.
Wiring…I found a company that said they would make a harness for me. I had to send them a wiring harness from an early 1990’s Mustang and send it to them. So I had to get that off eBay (harness #1). Got it off eBay and sent the harness to the company. Never got part, so I was out that money. I decided that I would try to make the harness myself. I got harness #2 from eBay. Received it. After 3 months of messing with it, I finally determined that the wiring harness was from a Ford car, but not a Mustang. So I went to a local Mustang junkyard and got harness #3 from a 1992 Mustang. Bought a book, Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control that helped a lot with figuring out what was what.
Fuel pump…had to figure out where I was going to mount it. I decided to mount it just above the rear end gear housing. Then I had to run fuel lines to the front of the car.
Transmission…bought a 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis just for the AOD transmission. After I took the transmission out, I sold the car to a junkyard. Stupid me though…if I had done just a little bit of work/thought, I would have realized that I could have used a lot of parts off the Merc, and wouldn’t have gotten rid of it so soon.
Transmission mount…had to get a special bracket that would let me put a 1990’s transmission into the Mustang. The newer transmission is bigger than the 1966 one, and the special bracket makes more room.
Radiator…bought a new radiator, because the one in the Mustang, I had no idea how old it was.
Oil pan..had to use the 1966 oil pan on the 1993 engine because of the shape of the body of the Mustang itself.
Timing chain cover…didn’t have to, but I used the 1966 timing chain cover on the 1993 engine.
Interior…had to cut a hole in the firewall and figure out where to mount the computer inside the car behind the dashboard. ‘Measure twice, cut once.’
Transmission oil cooler…added a transmission cooler to the car and mounted it in front of the radiator.
Wiring…several things:
First and most important, I found a guy on the internet that tirelessly answered all my questions. Him, and several websites such as ****.com and AllFordMustangs.com were tremendous help with this project.
-The computer needs a good source of 12v power, so I added a relay what would send 12v to the computer when I turned the key.
-This relay that turns the computer on, also powers a relay to turn the fuel pump on. I did not want to do it that way, so I added a separate relay to turn the fuel pump on.
-The 1992 harness only had to connect to the 1966 harness in about 4 or 5 places. When you turn the key to ‘on,’ the computer has to get power, the fuel pump has to get power, the 1992 coil gets power, and the distributor gets power. Then, when you turn the key to ‘start,’ the distributor has to know that you are trying to start the car. If the distributor does not get another, separate source of 12v when ‘cranking,’ the engine will not start. However, stick shift cars can start without this extra 12v source of power. So I had to add a wire that told the distributor that the car was trying to start.
-At this point, I could turn the key, and the fuel pump would come on. The actual turning of the starter was accomplished with the 1966 original wiring.
-The car would not start. I was not sure that the plugs were firing, so I bought a spark tester, and found out that the plugs were firing intermittently. With the help of the net, I found out that the plugs will not fire properly if the computer does not know that the fuel pump is on. So I put in a wire to tell the computer that the fuel pump was running.
-Spark plugs would still not fire correctly, still intermittent operation. Found a different schematic for my wiring, found out there were three grounds for my harness, where I had thought there was only one. I grounded the other wires.
-Engine would crank, fuel pump is on, spark plugs sparking, engine would not start. I would crank the engine while rotating the distributor, hoping that my timing was off, and that’s why my Mustang wouldn’t start. Wrong.
-After a few days of this, I did some more reading, I found out that I had put my distributor in the engine incorrectly. In older cars, you could rotate the distributor and eventually the timing would be correct and the engine would run; you could continue to rotate the distributor and the engine would smooth out. In newer autos, the distributor had to be put in more accurately, one tooth off and the engine will not start. That’s what I had done, put the distributor in one tooth off. On March 26th, 2:15 pm, I pulled the distributor, moved it one tooth over, and put it back in. What do you know, the engine started.
That’s about it. I had to buy a special cable to make the shifter work, and a special cable to make the gas pedal work.
Update: Drove it to work finally, last Thursday. Master cylinder gave out on the way home...about the only part in the driveline that hasn''t been replaced. That''s okay...new kit to convert front drums to discs is being ordered this week!
[image]local://upfiles/30391/AAA6BFBB31E24D8DA3E4F15322174655.jpg[/image]
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