So I have a 351W Block. I am going to the machine shop and have it Balanced and Blueprinted. Should i bore it over any??? I think i would like to. I plan on replacing all internals. Forged bottom end for sure. What kind of heads, intake, carb, other parts should i consider for optimum performance???
So I have a 351W Block. I am going to the machine shop and have it Balanced and Blueprinted. Should i bore it over any??? I think i would like to. I plan on replacing all internals. Forged bottom end for sure. What kind of heads, intake, carb, other parts should i consider for optimum performance???
Bore it if you need to, don't do it just for displacement, There are plenty of opinions on what kind/brand of parts to use, whatever you do, you will want to build a "package" out of matched parts to achieve your desired results.
You need to start with what you want from the car, and choose parts from there.
Do you want a daily driver?
Do you care about fuel economy?
Are you going to race the car?
What other upgrades do you want to make on the car? (is your engine selection going to require replacement of other chasis components?
Do you want an off the line car, or a cruiser?
Do you want your engine to be a "100,000 mile engine", or do you want a max performance engine?
And of course, how much are you willing to spend?
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66 Coupe
I-6 Conversion, 408 Windsor, Tremec TKO 600
Wilwood fronts, SSBC Rears
9" Track Loc.
NEWSFLASH!! You can not borrow your way out of debt!
anyone who wants to dump money into forged internals but wonders if they need to bore it or not needs to be slapped, sorry dude.
YES, get the damn thing bored .030 so you have clean and true cylinder walls
I don't know about that for sure, I have rebuilt more than one engine that did not need boring, even for a performance build. No ridge, cross hatch in the cylinders......
Most folks believe that these SBFs can only go .030 over,,,,, a block is a terible thing to waste...
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66 Coupe
I-6 Conversion, 408 Windsor, Tremec TKO 600
Wilwood fronts, SSBC Rears
9" Track Loc.
NEWSFLASH!! You can not borrow your way out of debt!
I'm looking for a pretty fast car. Still be able to drive it to work. But if someone needs to be beat i don't want to disappoint. I understand the whole "package" idea. Like a performer top end by edelbrock. I appreciate the help.
what are your plans for the rest of the car to handle the new engine?
what car is it?
what gearbox and diff
current state of suspension and brakes.
high performing engines are all fine but the rest of the car needs to be up to the job to be able to use the performance.
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Quote:
A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon.
Not bad hey!
aussie are are dumb americans most of us dont touch the brakes or suspension.but yes stiffer suspension and bigger brakes are a must if you up the power.my idiot friend shoved a 460 in a 4 banger foxbody mustang and wonders why its hard to stop.
haha, its not really that much different here except handling and brakes are considered necessary to be able to negotiate suicidal kangaroos at high speed
one of my mates is in the process of shoehorning a stroked 318 into a early 80's Chrysler/ Mitsubishi Lancer (think 4cyl hatchback, pre-ricer).
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Quote:
A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon.
Not bad hey!
I learned engine building by reading a smokey yunick book so i figured i would apply that stuff, over 50 engines later I always bore .030 over, use speed pro/trw/je pistons and rings depending on application, crane cams and valvetrain components, and line hone not line bore the mains if at all possible, always use studs instead of bolts for the heads,always make sure my machine shop uses a torque plate, and i use a smooth hone pattern not a cross hatch. havent had an engine failure yet. easttennmotors.com
351 W
