Hey folks -

I just stripped my engine down, cleaned everything out, balanced the pistons, replaced the seals and reassembled the engine. The belts are tensioned, timing chain installed correctly, and I installed the dizzy at with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the distributor pointing to #1 spark connector.

I poured ~ a cup of gas in the carb and cranked her over. Got a few tentative thumps, but she won't catch.

We calibrated the carb to the midde section on the electronic choke -- e.g. not lean, not rich. Two screws in the front are two turns out from all the way in.

Distributor is spinning counter-clockwise, and the plugs are wired as per the sequence on the engine block.

Tried her again after carb calibration, to no avail and a closer start, but no luck. It sounds (and smells) like we're getting initial fire, but nothing enough to trigger piston travel which leads me to think it has something to do with the timing or the valves.

The vacuum advance on the dizzy is not connected to anything, and we had better luck plugging the hose, but we're not sure where to attach it on the car.

The firing order seems correct, the distributor is producing sparks against the points, and the carb should be working. fine as its rebuilt by a specialty shop.

The engine has cranked a bunch of times and should be lubed and circulating coolant.The carb jets fuel into the bowls when I depress the accelerator/

Do you have any advice?

A cup of gas will flood it. Wait until tomorrow and try again without pouring gas into the venturi.

ORIGINAL: Ziggysan
I just stripped my engine down, cleaned everything out, balanced the pistons, replaced the seals and reassembled the engine. The belts are tensioned, timing chain installed correctly, and I installed the dizzy at with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the distributor pointing to #1 spark connector.


I'll bet the timing still isn't quite right.

I installed the dizzy at with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the distributor pointing to #1 spark connector.

Pull the valve cover and make sure both valves on #1 are closed as the piston comes up, if the exhaust valve opens you're at TDC of the exhaust stroke.

You can just pull #1 plug and SLOWLY crankuntil your thumb is blown off the hole. Look at the dist and crank pulley for timing marks. If you're close its probably as Soaring said. if your not, well you get to retime the engine again. good luck

HAHAHAHAHA Its alive! I just had to adjust the distributor about 5-10 degrees forward of where it was and she lit up just fine.

Now if I can just take care of the exhaust manifold leaks...

ORIGINAL: Ziggysan

HAHAHAHAHA Its alive! I just had to adjust the distributor about 5-10 degrees forward of where it was and she lit up just fine.

Now if I can just take care of the exhaust manifold leaks...


Why can't you?
1. Take off old manifold
2. Replace gasket
3. Put manifold back on. :D

Keeping in mind that Ford did not install exhaust manifold gaskets at the factory, maybe gaskets should be installed. I've rebuilt stock engines with and withoutbut recomend that they be used, especially with headers.
Jim.

ORIGINAL: 66GTKFB

Keeping in mind that Ford did not install exhaust manifold gaskets at the factory, maybe gaskets should be installed. I've rebuilt stock engines with and withoutbut recomend that they be used, especially with headers.
Jim.

On a new or fresh head maybe a gasket is not necessary, but with all the heat generated for all those miles that head and manifolds have, there just has to be some warping. Use gaskets.

Oh, no question. I've already sanded primed and painted the original manifold and replaced the gaskets. However, I don't think I ground enough off of the contact surface on the manifold and I'm not getting a good seal around the pitted contact points. Is there a good gasket sealer that will take the high termperatures of the exhaust manifold?

Use an exhaust manifold gasket. Sealants can't handle the pressure or temperature of the exhaust.
Jim