Team MF Member #350 Posts: 3513
Joined: 6/3/2005 Status: offline
This step by step tech article was provided by RyansQuick6. Thank you Ryan.
OK, here you go, a comprehensive how-to on installing front and rear springs.
Tools required: wrenches or sockets 14mm for sway bar, and front brake caliper removal 15mm rear shock removal 18mm rear shock removal 21mm (2) for front strut removal Floor jack Jack stands Gloves Hacksaw Prybar
Tools preferred: Impact gun Cutoff wheel or sawzall
Front spring replacement
Step 1: Jack up front end Place jack stands on frame remove wheels
Step 2: Remove brake caliper and hang on hook so as to not put stress in the brake hose:
Step 3: Place jack under spring seat and raise up until suspension lightly compresses:
Step 4: Remov top nut and bushing for sway bar:
Step 5: Remove strut/spindle bolts:
Step 6: Slowly relieve jack tension to allow sindle to drop slightly in order to remove strut:
Step 7: Remove upper nut on strut and remove strut:
Step 8: Slowly relieve jack pressure until suspension is completely extended:
Step 9: Remove spring by using your foot to apply pressure to the lower control arm. A prybar may be necessary if there is still slight tension on spring:
Step 10: Place spring insulators on new/newly cut springs and reinstall ensuring that the end of the spring seats in the perch on the lower control arm:
Step 11: Use jack to raise suspension back up ensuring that the sway bar endlink goes through the eyelet:
Step12: Reinstall strut in upper mount, then rebolt to spindle. Reinstall brake rotor and caliper. Reinstall wheel, jack car up, remove jack stands. When lowering the car down on the jack, go slowly so ensure that the jack will clear the newly lowered body. If there are issues raise car back up and use blocks so that the jack can be safely removed.
Rear Spring replacement:
Step 1: Jack up rear end Place stand in front of rear lower control arms Remove rear wheels
Step 2: Loosen lower rear shock bolt, do not remove!:
Step 3: Place jack under differential and lightly compress suspension, remove lower shock bolt:
Step 4: Slowly relieve tension from jack:
Step 5: With all tension off of rear suspension, remove spring and replace with new/newly cut spring and spring isolators
Step 6: Use jack on axle to compress suspension, replace lower shock bolt.
Step 7: Reinstall wheels, jack car up, remove stands and lower car using the same care as with the front, as the fuel tank may end up resting on jack.
Step 8: Go get an alignment ad enjoy your new stance!
IF YOU WANT TO CUT YOUR SPRINGS, CONTINUE READING: Cutting your springs is a perfectly legitimate way of improving the looks and handling of a Mustang. It's a proven fact that a properly modified factory spring is better than 90% of the best/most common aftermarket springs on the market. For auto-x use they set the in-lb rate almost perfect without going to a coil-over/k-member/tubular control arm setup. Don't do it unless you change your shocks/struts, or you'll bounce all over in short time.
To get the proper height, start at 3/4 of a coil all the way around, and let it settle for a few weeks. It will most likely drop up to 1/4" during settling alone, aside from what you removed. DO NOT USE HEAT TO CUT THEM!!!!! Try to use a hacksaw(the slow way) or a cutoff wheel(the smart way) jsut try not to let it get too hot. If you want to go lower, do it 1/4 coil at a time, at the most, and let settle again for a few weeks again. It sucks to cut too much, because there's no way to put it back. My sig pic is with 18's and 1 1/4 coils removed.
Step 1: With spring removed, mark where you want to cut. It's best to cut less and go back to cut a little more than to cut too much
Step 2: Wearing gloves and safety glasses (full face shield is preferred), use cutoff wheel or hacksaw to remove coil, DO NOT USE A TORCH!:
Printable Version
Lowering Your Stang - 
