Posts: 2968
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: offline
OK, here you go, a comprehensive how-to on installing front and rear springs.
Tools required: wrenches or sockets 14mm for sway bar, and front brake caliper removal 15mm rear shock removal 18mm rear shock removal 21mm (2) for front strut removal Floor jack Jack stands Gloves Hacksaw Prybar
Tools preferred: Impact gun Cutoff wheel or sawzall
Front spring replacement
Step 1: Jack up front end Place jack stands on frame remove wheels
Step 2: Remove brake caliper and hang on hook so as to not put stress in the brake hose:
Step 3: Place jack under spring seat and raise up until suspension lightly compresses:
Step 4: Remov top nut and bushing for sway bar:
Step 5: Remove strut/spindle bolts:
Step 6: Slowly relieve jack tension to allow sindle to drop slightly in order to remove strut:
Step 7: Remove upper nut on strut and remove strut:
Step 8: Slowly relieve jack pressure until suspension is completely extended:
Step 9: Remove spring by using your foot to apply pressure to the lower control arm. A prybar may be necessary if there is still slight tension on spring:
Step 10: Place spring insulators on new/newly cut springs and reinstall ensuring that the end of the spring seats in the perch on the lower control arm:
Step 11: Use jack to raise suspension back up ensuring that the sway bar endlink goes through the eyelet:
Step12: Reinstall strut in upper mount, then rebolt to spindle. Reinstall brake rotor and caliper. Reinstall wheel, jack car up, remove jack stands. When lowering the car down on the jack, go slowly so ensure that the jack will clear the newly lowered body. If there are issues raise car back up and use blocks so that the jack can be safely removed.
Rear Spring replacement:
Step 1: Jack up rear end Place stand in front of rear lower control arms Remove rear wheels
Step 2: Loosen lower rear shock bolt, do not remove!:
Step 3: Place jack under differential and lightly compress suspension, remove lower shock bolt:
Step 4: Slowly relieve tension from jack:
Step 5: With all tension off of rear suspension, remove spring and replace with new/newly cut spring and spring isolators
Step 6: Use jack on axle to compress suspension, replace lower shock bolt.
Step 7: Reinstall wheels, jack car up, remove stands and lower car using the same care as with the front, as the fuel tank may end up resting on jack.
Step 8: Go get an alignment ad enjoy your new stance!
IF YOU WANT TO CUT YOUR SPRINGS, CONTINUE READING: Cutting your springs is a perfectly legitimate way of improving the looks and handling of a Mustang. It's a proven fact that a properly modified factory spring is better than 90% of the best/most common aftermarket springs on the market. For auto-x use they set the in-lb rate almost perfect without going to a coil-over/k-member/tubular control arm setup. Don't do it unless you change your shocks/struts, or you'll bounce all over in short time.
To get the proper height, start at 3/4 of a coil all the way around, and let it settle for a few weeks. It will most likely drop up to 1/4" during settling alone, aside from what you removed. DO NOT USE HEAT TO CUT THEM!!!!! Try to use a hacksaw(the slow way) or a cutoff wheel(the smart way) jsut try not to let it get too hot. If you want to go lower, do it 1/4 coil at a time, at the most, and let settle again for a few weeks again. It sucks to cut too much, because there's no way to put it back. My sig pic is with 18's and 1 1/4 coils removed.
Step 1: With spring removed, mark where you want to cut. It's best to cut less and go back to cut a little more than to cut too much
Step 2: Wearing gloves and safety glasses (full face shield is preferred), use cutoff wheel or hacksaw to remove coil, DO NOT USE A TORCH!:
Step 3: Reinstall newly cut spring.
That's it for now.
Ryan
< Message edited by Jefferson -- 6/13/2007 9:57:59 AM >
about a month ago mustangmike2001 and I wrote a writeup on lowering your car front and rear and we never recieved a contributor tag and it was never made into a sticky we are still hoping for it...
Posts: 2968
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: offline
It's a road warrior, not a trailer queen lol. This was literally te first time I was able to even touch my car for something other than puting in gas in a months. It was killing me. It took forever to redo the springs because I had to stop every 5 seconds to wash my hands and take a picture. lol
I'm going to be doing a coilover install and 4bolt cc plate install soon as well. Maybe one day a nitrous how-to as well.
I need a shop assistant!
Ryan
< Message edited by RyansQuick6 -- 6/12/2007 11:01:11 PM >
yea i know what u mean, thats why its so hard for me to do write ups, i forget about pics and get straight to work, by the time im done is when i think about the how-to little late then
Don't do it unless you change your shocks/struts, or you'll bounce all over in short time.
I really want to lower my stang this way. Is it that bad that you should change you shocks/sturts? I don't have the money to change them out yet. Awesome write-up by the way!
_____________________________
-Kenny
SSM Stage 2+ Valves FOR SALE! Stock Wheels (the better looking ones on the 03-04s) FOR SALE!
Posts: 2968
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: offline
Yes it really is important, but it's not important due to the method of the drop, but due to the fact that when you lower your car, suspension travel changes, and old stock shocks can't really handle it for long. It wears them out faster, if they aren't already on their way out.
Posts: 2968
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: thakodis1
if i did this and put in gabrial ultra struts would they be ok
Not really, it will work, but you won't see any improvement in handling and they may wear out faster. If you're on a budget then go for it, just don't forget to get an alignment as soon as you get done.
Sweet post!! Just saved me some install money. Also, I have about 44k on my car, and while im dropping it, would it be easy to put in new struts myself? #2: I dont have any air tools, are they necessary?
#3: Do you not have to remove the rear brake before doing the rear spring?
#4: Can I just do the front or back on one weekend, then do the opposite the next weekend? would that hurt?
#5: Are rotors hard to install while I was doing this, because they need to be turned and I want better looking ones?
Posts: 2968
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: FBCBEER
Sweet post!! Just saved me some install money. Also, I have about 44k on my car, and while im dropping it, would it be easy to put in new struts myself? #2: I dont have any air tools, are they necessary?
#3: Do you not have to remove the rear brake before doing the rear spring?
#4: Can I just do the front or back on one weekend, then do the opposite the next weekend? would that hurt?
#5: Are rotors hard to install while I was doing this, because they need to be turned and I want better looking ones?
1. to put in new struts, the only extra step is undoing the top bolt on the rear shock and you're done, just put your new ones in instead of the old ones.
2. No not really, just goes faster.
3. No, if you have a lift the wheel can stay on as well. I only remove it make pulling out the spring easier.
4. Yeah, but it'll look funny, it takes about 20 minutes to the back, maybe 45 minutes to do the front.
5. Just like in the 1st question, go ahead and put them on, but make sure to install new pads as well.
also like was said before this will change your suspension travle so don't forget to do an alignment afterwards it will prevent abnormal tire wear and vehicle pull. other than that wicked post
For the shocks and struts , do we have to specify the height difference because of the travel changes or does the standard replacement brands compensate for this???
Printable Version
How to lower your Stang! - 
