i think you just eliminate the upper "arms" from the mid-pipe and the headers just go straight into the body of the mid-pipe.i think thats how it is for the prochamber anyway.
bythe time you turn 21 i 4 years there will be some other car out there that you want more than a cobra morthan likely. i wuold just keep the plans to minimum and save some money and decide what to do with it then. 4 years is alot of time to change your mind.
On an SRT-4 you may be right (doubt it no offense lol), I may decide never to get one. However I am always going to want a Mustang/Terminator. Not just becuase they look cool or perform well, but it is much deeper than that...The first Ford Mustang was launched to the public at the New York World's Fair, on April 17, 1964. That date, April 17, although 26 years earlier, just so happens to be the same day that I was born. So I guess we have a connection, if you are into that sort of thing...
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"Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear)
True, yet prices of new cars keep climbing so when they come out I probably still won't be able to afford one. And if I got any new car in 09 it would be a Chevrolet Corvette Z07...or a viper...
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"Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear)
Team MF Member #5002 Posts: 5062
Joined: 12/4/2005 Status: offline
FYI... When you change the incoming air flow of a blown car you need a retune at that time... which means, if you do an intake, you need to go a tune. My advice would be: Do intake, pulley combo with the right cooling mods, get a tune - and have them turn off yours O2's in the tune so when you can then afford the exhaust you go ahead and put that on.
But everytime you change something that changes the airflow or fuel on the blown Cobras you need a retune or you'll risk detonation.
Needaterminator...trust me Im 17 and have a gt right now and I'd kill for for a terminator...but I know most likely in the future Im not gonna stick to one car...so I'd just stop asking so many questions...and work to get that money for a new car...
trust me I am working. Only problem is my dad lol. I am trying to put $300 a month into paying my car off so I can get a Mustang GT or SRT-4. The only way I would get a Cobra is if my dad got one for himself.
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"Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear)
Team MF Member #5002 Posts: 5062
Joined: 12/4/2005 Status: offline
Don't get me wrong the SRT4's are fast and what not... and its cheap to make them quick, but very hard to make it FAST.
My advice, if your not going to go Cobra, get a new 3v GT... or a 03/04 Mach 1... if not, get a LS1.. no disrespect for the GT guys (as i use to be one of them) but the 2v motors just aren't very strong... while they can be fast its very hard/expensive.
Why not get a 96-98 Cobra and slap a blower on it... run 450ish rwhp.. and call it a day?
Well I really just don't like the 96-98 Cobra's all that much. They are still Cobra's but not a fav body style. I would like a 96 Mystic coupe though. And parts are getting harder to find. (Factory not Aftermarket).
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"Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear)
You will NOT want a ProCharger (with a 2003/2004 Cobra) for street or street/strip use. It's lack of low end torque is why you see so few of them. If you're going to want to make something in the 500rwhp area (which is more than enough) you should consider the regular mods plus porting your blower (Stiegemeier is recommended). If you want to make 525+ then go with a twin-screw blower (Kenne Bell or Whipple) or twin-turbo. My STRONG advice to you though is to take it slow. Since you don't yet have a Cobra you can plan your mods. Consider the following. * Your budget * How much power you want to make * Will the car be raced or pretty much street driven? * What supporting mods are most important to you, based on your ultimate setup * Will you go for the ultimate package right away, or do you want to mod in stages?
I would also strongly recommend that you read through the FAQ page on my website. It will help answer a lot of your basic questions and help you plan your future with this car. Here's the link. http://www.stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_2004faqs.htm
Thanks for the help and recommendations. Based on price alone I don't think that I am going to get a Cobra, at least not any time soon. I was looking at either SRT-4's or 99-04 Mustang GT's for my next car, but I started looking into 98-02 GM F-Body's a couple of days ago and I may add them to my possible list. But the insurance is HIGH and the milage is HIGH. Mileage isn't to much of a problem though, becuase I would keep the car stock for a while and save up for a new engine, definetly forged internals, maybe a stroker. MTI makes a full package that includes a 427 stroker with full exhuast, full air induction, everything but including labor it costs $18,000. HP Performance makes a 402 stroker (mostly used if you want a stage II or III turbo kit for your f-body that costs $9,200.
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"Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear)
FYI... When you change the incoming air flow of a blown car you need a retune at that time... which means, if you do an intake, you need to go a tune. My advice would be: Do intake, pulley combo with the right cooling mods, get a tune - and have them turn off yours O2's in the tune so when you can then afford the exhaust you go ahead and put that on.
But everytime you change something that changes the airflow or fuel on the blown Cobras you need a retune or you'll risk detonation.
This is not true. What exactly would you be re-tuning? Adjusting timing? You wouldn't want to go spend $100 - $250 to gain a few horsepower. The only time I'd be re-tuning is changing the pulley, cai, exhaust. Maybe if I did the exhaust and a cai at the same time, but even then.
Cooling mods are no guarantee that your back to back to back high speed runs up to 140 are going to save your piston skirts. Although, I would get a bigger heat exchanger and coolant tank. The only guarantee is to make sure your tuner knows what they are doing. Keep the timing down, adding a few degrees just to get max horsepower usually spells doom at some point down the way. Hit a day when the heat is at 95, humidity at 90% and your car was pushing the limits in 70 degree weather, your going to go boom.
Hey guys I am new here and although I do not have a 03/04 Cobra terminator I really want one but I have some questions. I ordered some info on ProCharger's that came through the mail yesterday and an entire brochure of info was devoted to saying how an air-to-air intercooler is more effiecent and better than a air-to-water intercooler. Is there any aftermarket air-to-air intercooler's for the 03/04 Cobra's? Also if/when I get a terminator I would want somewhere between 500-600rwhp probably. I do not want turbo/twin turbo, I want to stick with a supercharger. Most everybody that I have talked to or checked out their cars all have KB or Whipple Twin-Screw superchargers. Are they better for the Cobra then a ProCharger, Paxton, Vortech, tec Centrifugal system? I know that centrifugals are like turbos and don't get a lot of boost at low rpm's, but they make more boost at higher rpm's. I would want my terminator to make good boost from low rpm's all the way through the rpm range. Would a centrifugal or twin-screw be better for this? The car would never see the track, but it might see some street races if the roads are clear of other people and would definetly see some passing. Thanks for all your help guys!
Whipple is the way to go. I have a full weight stock IRS car and it runs high 10's all day long.
Re-tuning is not necessary when only doing an intake/exhaust mod. There was only one intake (the first generation Densecharger) that leaned out the A/F and required a tune. And they rectified that by coming out with the Gen 2 which doesn't affect the A/F. If you are planning on buying a used Cobra, do yourself a favor and proceed slowly. Your best bet is to either buy one that you're familiar with, or buy a stock/near stock one. And even then, you'll need to confirm as best you can that it hasn't been demodded. Very common unfortunately. And the seller rarely devulges prior mods unless you specifically ask. You might want to read this info before you lay your money down. http://stangshiftergaskets.com/2003_2004faqs.htm#_Toc35092330 Best of luck in your quest. You'll love this car.
Team MF Member #5002 Posts: 5062
Joined: 12/4/2005 Status: offline
There's never any gaurentee that doing any runs to 140-150 whether or not they're back to back in any weather won't cause your car to go boom. However, the head cooling mod, will give you a much better chance.
I was reading what CobraBob had put, and it kinda makes me wonder. I had leaned out also when I installed my Steeda intake, and I did need a minor adjustment on the tune to stop it from leaning out. The tunes may not be absolutly NECESSARY, but I have always been advised by several well known tuners to do so when changing the incoming air flow. They always told me to do things in bunches because of tuning costs.
In addition to the heat exchanger, coolant tank.. I'd also get a tstat, head mod, bigger radiator.
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ORIGINAL: AllVenom
quote:
ORIGINAL: xxkazp3rxx
FYI... When you change the incoming air flow of a blown car you need a retune at that time... which means, if you do an intake, you need to go a tune. My advice would be: Do intake, pulley combo with the right cooling mods, get a tune - and have them turn off yours O2's in the tune so when you can then afford the exhaust you go ahead and put that on.
But everytime you change something that changes the airflow or fuel on the blown Cobras you need a retune or you'll risk detonation.
This is not true. What exactly would you be re-tuning? Adjusting timing? You wouldn't want to go spend $100 - $250 to gain a few horsepower. The only time I'd be re-tuning is changing the pulley, cai, exhaust. Maybe if I did the exhaust and a cai at the same time, but even then.
Cooling mods are no guarantee that your back to back to back high speed runs up to 140 are going to save your piston skirts. Although, I would get a bigger heat exchanger and coolant tank. The only guarantee is to make sure your tuner knows what they are doing. Keep the timing down, adding a few degrees just to get max horsepower usually spells doom at some point down the way. Hit a day when the heat is at 95, humidity at 90% and your car was pushing the limits in 70 degree weather, your going to go boom.