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jthorn9 -> RE: Basics (Stickey?) (7/27/2007 3:59:14 PM)
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OK, I went ahead and redid part of my modifications list to include much more info, brands, and power gains. Hope you enjoy, I'll add more in the future.
Air Intake
* Cold Air Intake - Frees up air flow by removing the paper air filter, air silencer, and, of course, the air box, to add both low and high end torque and power. Generally will add 2-4 rwhp, and 3-6 rwtq on an otherwise stock V6 Mustang, and still not much more on a moded stang. There are several types of cold air intake setups. Ram air intakes are one of the oldest ways of making a CAI, it simply has the air filter lie inside the engine bay with a heat shield to protect the CAI from heat. A "True" CAI has the air filter sit inside the fenderwell to draw in cool dense air directly from it's source, there is no way for moister to enter the air intake on a Mustang with this setup. The last is a high flow air filter drop in with an air silencer delete. This method can be done several ways, but the most common way is to remove the air silencer from the air box, and drop in a high flow air filter to maximize air flow, this is a cheap, and efficient way to make a CAI as is adds nearly the same gains as an aftermarket CAI. Good brands include, MAC, BBK, & JLT.
* High flow 75mm, 80mm, or 90mm Mas Air Meter (also refered to as a Mass Air Flow Sensor, the sensor actually sits ontop of the MAM) - This mod is required when your car exceeds stock MAF sensor abilities, or a larger diameter throttle body has been added, or high flow fuel injectors have been added (36lb or higher). Generally speaking your stock MAF will run off of any fuel injector up to 36lbs as long as your ecu has been properly tuned, becuase the MAF and ECU will automattically make most of the adjustments needed to run. A new high flow MAF is also only needed when you exceed 300+ rwhp as that tends to be the breaking point of the stock MAF sensors range, however, tuning can be made to make it last longer. Also, rule of thumb (mainly for V8s) whaver size TB you have, your MAF needs to be larger, for sixers, this is generally not an issue. High flow MAFs will add a few ponies, but nothing really sufficient, especially on a stock to mildly moded sixer. Good brands include Granetilli, Ford Racing, SCT, & Pro M.
* High Flow Larger Diamter Throttle Body - This mod will require porting of the upper intake to meet the new throttle body size, as your stock port opening on your intake will always approximately match your stock throttle body size. 94-98 Mustang V6s have a 50mm Throttle Body stock, and the only availible upgrade is a 56mm Throttle Body made by BBK. 99-04 Mustang V6s have a 60mm throttle body, and can take both a 65mm throttle body, or a 70mm throttle body. 65mm Throttle bodies are for mildly moded mustangs with heads/cam/intake work, and or some type of forced induction. 70mm throttle bodies are for highly modified V6s running both a combination of F/I and H/C/I work. Power gains on a stock sixer will be minimal to around 2 rwhp, but on a sixer with a lot of supporting mods, up to 10 rwhp can be gained. Good brands include BBK, Peformance Products as well as maybe a few others for sixers.
Engine
* Under Drive Pullies - Under drive pullies usually consits of a size reduced crank pully and size increased alternator pully, to prevent charging problems, but some kits now include size increased waterpump pullies to add both looks, and increased performance of your cooling system at idel. Under drive pullies come in both 24% size reduced cranks, and 42% size reduced cranks. Remember, the more reduction to the size of the crank pully, the more power gained, but the more strain your external accessories will take in the long run. Keep in mind that the power gained is peak power, not power throughout the power band, so performance gains will be minimal, but MPG gains will be made, and dynos will look better. General power gains are between 4-8 rwhp. Good brands include ASP, BBK, March Performance, and Motoblue. NOTE!!! You will need a new belt specifically made for underdrive pullies, as a stock belt will no longer work.
* Tuners, Chips, and Tuning Software - There is a wide variety of tuners, chips, and software availible, so do a little research to see what best fits your needs. Generally speaking, CHIPS are the oldest form of ECU modification. It's simple, you buy a chip with a preprogramed tune, install it directly into your ecu, and go. Most new chips have multiple tunes programed into them to allow for more than one type of driving condition. Downsides to chips are that they're pre programed, so any new changes that need to be made for new mods can not be made and the chip must be uninstalled and reprogramed. Good brands include Diablo, Superchips, SCT, Venom, ACT, Jetz, as well as many others. Tuners are a little newer in that they are generally a handheld device that plugs into your OBD port and allows you to modify a handful of parameters on the ECU to boost performance. They can also hold several tunes at once, with the option to modify each one for newer needs. Downsides are that they're limited to what they can and can't modify, so more indepth tuning may be needed on large scale projects. Good brands include Diablo, Sniper, Superchips, & SCT. Tuning Software is one of the more recent additions into the racing world and is used just for that, racing. Tuning software is used in conjuction with a laptop and allows you to modify every single parameter of your ecu to maximize engine efficiency, and performance. Downsides include massive learning curves, and the need for a dyno at times. Good brands include Tweecer RT, Sniper, & PMS. Power Gains will vary widely depending on your supporting modifications, as well as the route you choose, but generally speaking, tuners, chips, and software will net around 5-12 rwhp on a stock sixer with the aveage being around 8 rwhp.
* Porting & Polished Intakes and Heads - There is a lot with this category so more information may need to be researched or asked on the forums to get a better understanding of what all takes place. First of all, porting is the widening of the ports to allow for more airflow. An example of this is when you widen the intake manifold throttle opening port to match the new size of a larger throttle body. Other forms of porting is port matching, which is when you match your port diameter to that of the gasket that mounts to it as gaskets are almost always larger in port size than the opening they go on. Polishing is just cleaning up the port, either from factory defects (factory ports are never perectly due to mass production, so all that may be needed is a quick polish job to get rid of the extra aluminum or iron left over from the production process which has closed up the opeing a little), polishing can also mean that your simply cleaning up the intake or head ports from grime build up and or the roughness left over from the porting process. This polishing smoothens up the port surface to reduce friction on the incomming air. Porting can be done at home using a porting kit, which is sold at nearly every auto parts store, but it's sugessted that a pro do the job, especially heads. There are also several sites that sell pre ported kits, even though they do not support our site, a lot of sixers go there, and here is a quick breakdown of their kits. Remember to buy the kit that best suits your car, a too high flowing of a kit, is just as bad as too little air flow. The website is www.supersixmotorsports.com
Stage 2 (AUTO)
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