RE: Basics (Stickey?)
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/27/2007 8:14:46 PM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11522
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
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Exhaust
*Headers - Headers connect directly to your heads and are the first line of your exhaust. Stock V6s actually have headers and not exhaust manifolds, like most cars, so right out of the box they flow fairly well, and are good up to around 300hp. Headers come in many forms, types, and varieties. The first, and oldest type of header is of corse Steel. Steel headers are just that, headers made of steel, they are cheap and easy to produce, however they are very prone to rusting out over time. Chrome headers are steel headers coated in a couple of coats of chrome. Chrom headers not only add a nice bit of bling under the hood, but are also a little better insulating than steel as well as a little more rust resistant, one major downside is that they will discolor over time. Ceramic coated headers steel headers coated in a layer of ceramic. They are the best insulating on the market, and one of the most rust resistant forms of headers out. Remember, the better the insulation, the more power you'll gain on cated systems, and the cooler and more efficient your engine runs due to the loss of heat transfer from the headers to the engine bay. Shorty headers are just that, short, stock lenth headers, they run to just a few inches in behind the engine before they end and connect to the mid pipe. Aftermarket shorty headers are generally mandadril bent, which means, they don't have kinks where the bends are like some stock mass produced headers have. Long tube headers are longer than shorty headers as they go furthur down towards the ground. This extended length gives the air more time to cool and stablize before combining in the mid pipe wich allows for more power and sound. Power gains will vary depending on the supporting mod of the car, but generally speaking a stock sixer with shorty headers will gain 1 rwhp, and that's iffy, and a stock sixer with long tubes can generally expect to see a 3-5 rwhp gain, remember these numbers are with no cat back exhaust work. Also, long tube headers require a shorter length mid pipe, so a standard midpipe will no longer fit. Good brands include JBA, BBK, and MAC (although Macs are prone to rusting).
* Mid Pipe - the mid pipe is just that, the middle section of your exhaust, it lies between the headers and the cat back exhaust system. Mid pipes come in a variety of types, sizes and styles. Stock midpipes are called a Y pipe in that a Y pipe looks like a Y in that it connects to the headers, then bends to form one single pipe. Stock pipe width is 2.25" in diameter. H Pipes are just that, a mid pipe that looks like an H. Most aftermarket H pipes measure 2.5", so a shop would have to custom fab one to be 2.25" in diameter. H pipes offer much more sound than a y pipe will, and is one of the loudest midpipes on the market, however, in the upper RPMs, to have the extra sound a little tone and sound quality is lost. X pipes, are like an H pipe, but in the shape of an X. They are more milder sounding and have a tendicy to pop when the RPMs are falling after reving up, but they keep much better sound tone and quality in the upper RPMs. These two types of pipes were made so that their could be even air transfer between the pipes due to the odd fire of a V8 engine, V6s gain no performance from either or, it's simply sound that changes. Straight pipes are two parralell running pipes, there is no cross over in the middle. These are the loudest mid pipes, but also take the biggest hit to sound tone, and quality. Mid pipes can come with both cats, and no cats, having no cats is illegal in most states, and will not pass smog emissions, and is extremly hard to have installed as many shops will not install anything without cats. Only Mac and Pypes make mid pipes for V6s, but any shop can fab a pair for you. Power gains are debatable, but generally are around 1-3 rwhp.
*Cattaliatic Converters - Cats, as they are called, come in many forms, and quantities on a car. Mustang V6s have 4 cats, two are located just behind the headers, and the last two are located about 4-5 inches behind the first set. Cats are used to filter out the bad smells and gases caused from buring fuel in an engine. They function by slowing down the outgoing air, and allowing it to heat up, the air inside the cats has to reach a certain temperature before it can be let out, this heating up, along with a cats built in filters, are what allows them to remove a lot of the harmful gases in emissions waste. This is why great insulated headers can improve performance, and that's because the more heat not loss through the headers, the less time it takes the gases inside the cats to heat up and pass through. Removing the cats will add a deeper and louder tone to your car and will remove a lot of backpressure, but remember, too much backpressure loss has been proven to do more bad than good on lower powered cars.
*MIL Eliminators - MIL Eliminators are used on systems that have had the cats removed. They plug into the O2 sensors, and then into the the connect that runs to your ECU. They just tell the ECU that the O2 sensors are on and functioning perfectly, in other words, they keep your check engine light from coming on. Steeda makes one of the best sets of MIL eliminators on the market, remember, you will just need one pair.
*Cat Back Exhaust - Your cat back exhaust system is the last line of your exhaust, it is this part of the exhaust that includes the muffler and tailpipe. Stock exhaust is just a single 2.25" exhaust. Cat back V6 exhaust is a bolt on exhaust system that welds onto your stock y pipe. It is a form of dual exhaust, but isn't a true dual as there is about a 6" long peice of pipe that is a single pipe before the split occurs again. Cat back exhaust for sixers are generally higher pitched, and offer less sound quality than true duals, they also don't offer the added power as they barely free up any. True duals are just that, two pipes running independant from each other from the mid pipe back. To get true duals on a sixer, either a shop has to do the work, or you can buy a kit for a GT. NOTE!!!! You must buy a V6 mid pipe, and a GT catback exhaust!!! True duals are deeper in sound and offer better tone throughout the power band than the other two systems, aftermarket piping sizes are generally 2.5". Good brands include Borla, Magnaflow, Force Flows, Bassni, & Flowmaster.
Drivetrain
* Open Differential - This is your stock rear end differential. V6s come with a 7.5" rear end, with an open differential. This means that the back right tire supplys most of the power, the left tire only supllies the overload from the right, and mainly the traction, this is why most V6s suffer from one wheel burouts.
* Limited Slip Differential - A limited slip differential allows both wheels to supply the power to the ground. This allows for better traction upon lauching and allows your to put more overall power to the ground safely, which is key on high powered N/A engines or engines running F/I. Good brands include Ford T-Lok (for stock to mildly moded) Eaton, Auburn (for mildly moded), & Detroit (for midly to highly moded applications).
* Gears - Your rear gears are what transfers your power from your drivetrain to your differential. 94-98 sixers come stock with 2.73 gears, 99-04s come with 3.27 gears. The number is a ratio or either 2.73/1 or 3.27/1, this means that your driveshaft will turn either 2.73 or 3.27 times to every tire rotation, increasing this ratio increases accelleration, but decreses MPG, and top speed. Your gears also must match your rear end size. 7.5" V6 rear ends have several comon aftermarket sizes, 3.45, 3.73, and 4.10. Make sure to ask questions about which ratio is best
_____________________________
Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
My Car Domain Page
My Mustang Site Page
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/29/2007 2:31:04 PM
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mustangrich
Posts: 73
Joined: 7/29/2007
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I'm a newbie and owner of a 2002 V6 Mustang (manual trans) that I want to perform some minor performance mods to. When I say minor I mean nothing that requires major modification or tweaking or "chain mods" where I get stuck in a constant chain of, "Well, this is no good without this, so I have to get it, but now that I've got that I'm really wasting it without this, etc." I want as many stand-alone mods as I can perform that will offer the most benefit. I'm also on a tight budget. I've scored some nice 17" 96/97 Cobra wheels and already have take-off dual exhaust from a '99 GT. I've got a few questions.
What else do I need to purchase for the dual exhaust? All I have are the pipes. Also, my bumper is not cut to accomodate the pipes the way a GT's is. Can you just let the pipes hang below the bumper or is it necessary to cut and form slots for the pipes in the bumper cover?
Headers: I've read on here that the stock headers actually flow pretty well; will they be sufficient with the dual exhaust I'm putting on?
Does a cold air intake come with a high-flow filter? If not, should I just keep my K&N?
Will my accessories experience a great deal of strain with a moderately reduced-size crank pulley? I want a few extra HP, but not at the expense of being able to have A/C when I'm stuck sitting in traffic.
I was going to get a coil and a set of wires, but you say a coil is wasted on a stock engine? And what kind of spark plugs should I get, or should I stay with the factory plugs?
What difference will I see/feel in a "performance clutch?" My father is about to sell his Mustang and I'm going to canibalize it for his Steeda short-throw shifter and some suspension stuff, so I was wondering about the clutch swap. What exactly are you supposed to gain over a stock clutch?
I want to put on control arms, subframe connectors, strut tower supports, and shocks. The first three I'm stealing from Dad's Mustang, but shocks I don't have. What brand on a budget would be an improvement? Also, will I give up a significant amount of ride comfort adding those things? Mine is smoother riding than Dad's '96 but his is much tighter-handling and his steering geometry does not change when you're hanging the curves pretty hard.
I like white gauge faces. This is purely cosmetic so I don't care too much about it, but I was reading that it's kind of a PITA to get them calibrated properly; is this so, or should I be able to get it done professionally for not too much money?
I know very little and have done little actual automotive work outside of changing my oil. Feel free to hit me with a clue-by-four.
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/29/2007 4:58:57 PM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11522
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mustangrich
I'm a newbie and owner of a 2002 V6 Mustang (manual trans) that I want to perform some minor performance mods to. When I say minor I mean nothing that requires major modification or tweaking or "chain mods" where I get stuck in a constant chain of, "Well, this is no good without this, so I have to get it, but now that I've got that I'm really wasting it without this, etc." I want as many stand-alone mods as I can perform that will offer the most benefit. I'm also on a tight budget. I've scored some nice 17" 96/97 Cobra wheels and already have take-off dual exhaust from a '99 GT. I've got a few questions.
What else do I need to purchase for the dual exhaust? All I have are the pipes. Also, my bumper is not cut to accomodate the pipes the way a GT's is. Can you just let the pipes hang below the bumper or is it necessary to cut and form slots for the pipes in the bumper cover?
Headers: I've read on here that the stock headers actually flow pretty well; will they be sufficient with the dual exhaust I'm putting on?
Does a cold air intake come with a high-flow filter? If not, should I just keep my K&N?
Will my accessories experience a great deal of strain with a moderately reduced-size crank pulley? I want a few extra HP, but not at the expense of being able to have A/C when I'm stuck sitting in traffic.
I was going to get a coil and a set of wires, but you say a coil is wasted on a stock engine? And what kind of spark plugs should I get, or should I stay with the factory plugs?
What difference will I see/feel in a "performance clutch?" My father is about to sell his Mustang and I'm going to canibalize it for his Steeda short-throw shifter and some suspension stuff, so I was wondering about the clutch swap. What exactly are you supposed to gain over a stock clutch?
I want to put on control arms, subframe connectors, strut tower supports, and shocks. The first three I'm stealing from Dad's Mustang, but shocks I don't have. What brand on a budget would be an improvement? Also, will I give up a significant amount of ride comfort adding those things? Mine is smoother riding than Dad's '96 but his is much tighter-handling and his steering geometry does not change when you're hanging the curves pretty hard.
I like white gauge faces. This is purely cosmetic so I don't care too much about it, but I was reading that it's kind of a PITA to get them calibrated properly; is this so, or should I be able to get it done professionally for not too much money?
I know very little and have done little actual automotive work outside of changing my oil. Feel free to hit me with a clue-by-four.
For the exhaust it depends on what kind of sytem you're running it on, in other words, what kind of mid pipe are you using. You don't have to have that hole for the exhaust as the tips can just hang under the bumper like the 94-98s do.
As stated, stock headers are more than fine up to and even over 300 rwhp.
Yes, CAIs do come with a high flow filter, K&N is pretty much the best line of filter.
24% size reduced will be perfect for you, see www.autobadges.com
Aftermarket coils are a waste, but good routine maintenance by changing parts out, including the coil pack, is always a good idea.
Aftermarket clutches are easier to push end, take less wear under all circumstances and there fore last longer, can take more power, and hold out your peak hp for a little longer period of time. Spec is one of the best to get.
Eibach, Tokiko, Roush, and Steeda are all great shock brands.
You will not have to recalibrate the speedo if you get a set of gauges for a V6.
_____________________________
Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
My Car Domain Page
My Mustang Site Page
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/30/2007 4:23:09 AM
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mustangrich
Posts: 73
Joined: 7/29/2007
Status: offline
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Is there any benefit to be gained from new injectors or an SVT Focus fuel pump without any other engine mods, like forced induction, etc?
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 8/2/2007 6:11:38 PM
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rrookie5
Posts: 4
Joined: 7/19/2007
From: Mass
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another newbie here... and first off this sticky is amazing... i just learned a TON about alot of stuff i was not to sure about and i appreciate jthorn9 for his time in this forum... but my question is about the underdrive pulleys it seems like your suggesting the 24% ones and i was wondering if you could give me a little more information on the 42% one because i am looking for the power increase you get with it but would like to know the downfall... at idle am i going to lose function of my a/c or something?
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 8/15/2007 9:19:59 PM
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mustangma81
Posts: 15
Joined: 8/7/2007
From: Houston tx
Status: offline
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hey yall has anyone put hood pins on stang before how hard is it
thanks
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 8/16/2007 8:51:58 AM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11522
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mustangrich
Is there any benefit to be gained from new injectors or an SVT Focus fuel pump without any other engine mods, like forced induction, etc?
There will be absolutly no gain on an otherwise stock car. Remember, injectors support horse power, they don't make it.
_____________________________
Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
My Car Domain Page
My Mustang Site Page
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 8/16/2007 8:53:48 AM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11522
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: rrookie5
another newbie here... and first off this sticky is amazing... i just learned a TON about alot of stuff i was not to sure about and i appreciate jthorn9 for his time in this forum... but my question is about the underdrive pulleys it seems like your suggesting the 24% ones and i was wondering if you could give me a little more information on the 42% one because i am looking for the power increase you get with it but would like to know the downfall... at idle am i going to lose function of my a/c or something?
The reason I suggest 24% over 42% is for one reason, other than dynos ratings, you'll see and or feel no difference between the two. 42% pullies will also put a serrious drain on your electronics system if you're running a mid ranged to powerful stereo unit. The other reason I don't suggest them is because there is only one website, to my knowledge, that sells them, and their service is absolute crap.
_____________________________
Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
My Car Domain Page
My Mustang Site Page
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 8/16/2007 8:54:26 AM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11522
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mustangma81
hey yall has anyone put hood pins on stang before how hard is it
thanks
From what I've read, they're fairly easy to install, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
_____________________________
Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
My Car Domain Page
My Mustang Site Page
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 8/17/2007 10:05:21 AM
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rrookie5
Posts: 4
Joined: 7/19/2007
From: Mass
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: jthorn9
quote:
ORIGINAL: rrookie5
another newbie here... and first off this sticky is amazing... i just learned a TON about alot of stuff i was not to sure about and i appreciate jthorn9 for his time in this forum... but my question is about the underdrive pulleys it seems like your suggesting the 24% ones and i was wondering if you could give me a little more information on the 42% one because i am looking for the power increase you get with it but would like to know the downfall... at idle am i going to lose function of my a/c or something?
The reason I suggest 24% over 42% is for one reason, other than dynos ratings, you'll see and or feel no difference between the two. 42% pullies will also put a serrious drain on your electronics system if you're running a mid ranged to powerful stereo unit. The other reason I don't suggest them is because there is only one website, to my knowledge, that sells them, and their service is absolute crap.
thank you appreciate the info
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