Common Modification Parts List & Discussion
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/5/2007 10:13:29 PM
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00raging stang
Posts: 1731
Joined: 8/22/2006
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i second making this a sticky i feel like ive been seeing alot of these questions lately
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2002 GT 5speed
-BBK CAI
-SLP LM1's
-STEEDA high flow catted X-pipe
-15%tint
-Terminator front bumper
-HID's
-FRPP 3.73 gears
- SCT X3(on order)
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/5/2007 10:21:12 PM
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RyansQuick6
Posts: 2462
Joined: 12/15/2006
From: Lafayette/Gulf of Mexico, LA
Status: offline
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You have your gears backwards, 4.10's for auto, 3.73 for manual.
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/5/2007 10:38:20 PM
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i_drive_stangs
Posts: 609
Joined: 7/28/2006
Status: offline
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and know nothing about the rear suspension. for a good rar sus. get a MM panhard bar or a watts link and remove the upper control arms and get tubular lowers. the springs and shocks.
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/6/2007 6:54:38 AM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11320
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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Ehhh...............OK, but my old post was better, too bad I lost that info with my old computer. I'll try to dig it back up.
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Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
Vortech S/C Install coming soon.....
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/6/2007 6:58:38 AM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11320
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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OK, here it is for 94-98 Mustang V6s.
Air Intake
1.) MAC Cold Air Intake $170 @ autobadges.com
4.) 80mm Cobra MAF set to 24lb injectors
5.) 56mm BBK Throttle Body $249 @ V6mustangstuff.com
Engine
1.) ASP 25% Size Reduced Crank Pulley $72 @ autobadges.com
2.) Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley $65 @ rpmoutlet.com
3.) ASP Underdrive Pulley Belt $35 @ autobadges.com
4.) Diablo Predator Tuner 96-04 $399 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
5.) BBK Chrome Valve Covers $329 Silver $199 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
6A.) Stage 2 (AUTO) Powerpack $1725 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6B.) Stage 2+ (MANUAL) Power Pack $1950 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6C.) Stage 2+ (AUTO W/STALL) Power Pack $1950 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6D.) Stage 3 (FORCED INDUCTION) Power Pack $2375 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6E.) Basic Split Port Intake Swap Kit $720 @ rpm-mustangs.com
6F.) 99+ Stage 2 (AUTO) Powerpack $1800 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6H.) 99+ Stage 2+ (MANUAL) Power Pack $2200 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6I.) 99+ Stage 2+ (AUTO W/STALL) Power Pack $2200 @ supersixmotorsports.com
6J.) 99+ Stage 3 (FORCED INDUCTION) Power Pack $2350 @ ssms^^^
6K.) Split Port Swap Gasket Kit (no intake or heads) $310 @ rpm-mustangs.com
8.) 24lb Fuel Injectors $279, 30lb $275, 42lbs $359 @ jegsperformance.com
9.) Stud Mount Adjustable Roller Rocker Arm Kit $495 @ supersixmotorsports.com
10.) Cam Thrust Spacer Roller Bearing Kit $150 @ supersixmotorsports.com
11.) Spring Retainer Kit $225 @ supersixmotorsports.com
12A.) Forged Stock Internals $1200 @ supersixmotorsports.com
12B.) Forged H Beams W/ 351W Rods $1600 @ supersixmotorsports.com
13.) BBK Fuel Pressure Regulator $109.99 @ brothersperformance.com
14.) BBK 56mm Throttle Body $257.99 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
Forced Induction
1.) Nitrous Oxide approx $500 @ jegsperformance.com and many others
2.) Vortech Supercharger approx $3500, see vortechsuperchargers.com for info.
Ignition
1A.) Red/Blue/Yellow 9mm Spark Plug Wires $70 @ autobadges.com
1B.) Chrome 8mm Spark Plug Wires $100 @ autobadges.com
2.) see msdignition.com for the rest of your ignition needs
Exhaust
1A.) JBA Silver or Titanium Short Tube Headers $640.97 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
1B.) JBA Short Tube Headers $460.72 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
1.C) JBA Chrome Short Tube Headers $349.99 @ brothersperformance.com
2A.) 2.5” V6 O/R X-Pipe see pypesperformance.com
2B.) MAC 2.5” V6 O/R H-Pipe $160.50 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
2C.) 2.5” V6 High Flow Catted X-Pipe see pypesperformance.com
2D.) 2.5” V6 High Flow Catted H-pipe see pypesperformance.com
3A.) Magnaflow 2.5” GT Cat-Back Dual Exhaust $469.99 @ brothersperformance.com
3B.) Borla 2.5” GT Cat-Back Dual Exhaust $699.99 @ brothersperformance.com
3C.) Bassini 2.5” GT Cat-Back Dual Exhaust see bassini.com
3D.) Flowmaster 2.5” GT Cat-Back Dual Exhaust see flowmaster.com
4.) MIL Eliminators (for O/R systems only) $61.95 @ hillbankmotorsports.com
Drivetrain
1A.) Ford Racing Posi-Traction 7.5” Differential $199 @ v6mustangstuff.com
1B.) See drivetrainspecialists.com for more durable options
2A.) 3.73 Motive Performance Plus Gears $ 149.99 @ mustangtuning.com
2B.) 4.10 (Moderately Moded Apps Only) Motive Performance Plus Gears $149.99 mt
2C.) 3.73 Ford Racing Gears $199.99 @ v6mustangstuff.com
2D.) 4.10 (Moderately Moded Apps Only) Ford Racing Gears $209.00 @ v6ms
3.) Motive Bearing Kit $74 @ mustangtuning.com
4.) 23 Tooth Speedo Corrector -
Transmission Auto
1.) High RPM Stall Torque Converter see mustangsunlimted.com
2.) Shift Kit see mustangsunlimted.com
Transmission Manual
1.) Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter $179 @ autobadges.com
2.) Shifter Gasket Set $9 @ autobadges.com
3A.) Spec Stage 2 Clutch $333.95 @ mustangsunlimited.com
3B.) Spec Stage 2+ Clutch $399 @ mustangsunlimited.com
3C.) Spec Stage 3 Clutch $499 @ mustangsunlimited.com
Suspension
1.) Steeda Caster Camber Plates $229.95 @ autobadges.com
2.) Steeda Lower Control Arms $295.95 @ autobadges.com
3.) Steeda upper Control Arms $295.95 @ autobadges.com
4.) Steeda Lower Subframe Connectors $89.95 @ autobadges.com
5.) Eibach Pro Spring Kit $224.95 @ autobadges.com
6.) Tokico D-Spec Shocks $629 @ autobadges.com
7.) Ford Racing (Cobra) Break Kit $819.88 @ mustangsunlimited.com
8.) 17” or 18” Rims see tirerack.com
Side note, mustang forums does not recconize super six motorsports or their products as they refused to speak to our administration about becoming and official site sponsor since we send so much business there way. However their site is very good to check out, but any local machine shop can do the same work as them for a cheaper price.
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Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
Vortech S/C Install coming soon.....
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/6/2007 7:03:40 AM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11320
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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OK, those write ups are about a year old, and I'll update them one of these days, but that should keep some of you guys busy for a while.
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Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
Vortech S/C Install coming soon.....
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/8/2007 7:52:26 PM
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bikeboy587
Posts: 1296
Joined: 3/26/2007
Status: offline
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Those are great lists jthorn9
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BBK LTs|MAC O/R H|Magnaflow catback|Tubular GT40 u/l(ported) Intake|Edelbrock Performer 5.0|TFS stg 1 cam|3.73s|Pro5.0|Zex 100hp dry shot
Dyno Tune May 24th
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/9/2007 8:17:30 AM
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Kikandross
Posts: 112
Joined: 5/12/2007
Status: offline
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Sweet, thank you.
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 6/10/2007 2:18:22 PM
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importkiller13
Posts: 95
Joined: 6/10/2007
From: Kerrville TX
Status: offline
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ok i on my stang i am loosing horsepower really bad right now and cant figure out why. i have very bad acceleration and while driving i get a hesitation. does anyone know what the problem could be?
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/5/2007 12:40:10 AM
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thakodis1
Posts: 114
Joined: 11/5/2006
Status: offline
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you may need a tune up
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00 v6 vert
gt cold air intake
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/10/2007 5:04:04 PM
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stanginlikeamug
Posts: 163
Joined: 7/5/2007
Status: offline
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if you put all that on there how much horse power do you think youd get?
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/11/2007 6:44:36 PM
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moontang
Posts: 544
Joined: 7/10/2007
Status: offline
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about a million and 2
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MayhemMustangs first official sicksir represent
quote:
Original:Explosive
The only thing that goes both ways on this forum is SXGT.
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RE: Common Modification Parts List & Discussion - 7/12/2007 6:26:35 PM
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Sjv1223
Posts: 7
Joined: 7/12/2007
Status: offline
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What exactly is a 4.2L Crank??? and i want an Intake, whats the best brand? I got a 2007 V6.
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/14/2007 12:25:04 PM
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Darkone253
Posts: 15
Joined: 8/24/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: jthorn9
And now onto the 99-04s
Air Intake
1.) MAC Cold Air Intake $170 @ http://www.autobadges.com/
2.) 80mm or 90mm MAF set to needed injector size www.mustangsunlimited.com (remember, this mod isn't necesary for all fuel injector modifications, only once 300 hp is broken as your stock MAF will adjust to the new injector size, some light tunine may still be needed)
3.) 70mm BBK Throttle Body $279 @ http://www.V6mustangstuff.com/
MAC, BBK, and K&N all make good CAIs. Just don't expect the kind of gains they report from their dyno. 2-3HP at the most.
(in reply to Sjv1223)
< Message edited by Darkone253 -- 7/14/2007 12:26:22 PM >
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New pic after repairs are done. =(
-Throttle tweak
-MAC 2.5" Cat Back w/3" Stainless Steel Tips
-CC Smoked Lights
-Planned gears, Tlock, and MAC Cold Air.
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RE: Basics (Stickey?) - 7/27/2007 3:59:14 PM
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jthorn9
Posts: 11320
Joined: 9/19/2005
From: Pearl River, Louisiana
Status: offline
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OK, I went ahead and redid part of my modifications list to include much more info, brands, and power gains. Hope you enjoy, I'll add more in the future.
Air Intake
* Cold Air Intake - Frees up air flow by removing the paper air filter, air silencer, and, of course, the air box, to add both low and high end torque and power. Generally will add 2-4 rwhp, and 3-6 rwtq on an otherwise stock V6 Mustang, and still not much more on a moded stang. There are several types of cold air intake setups. Ram air intakes are one of the oldest ways of making a CAI, it simply has the air filter lie inside the engine bay with a heat shield to protect the CAI from heat. A "True" CAI has the air filter sit inside the fenderwell to draw in cool dense air directly from it's source, there is no way for moister to enter the air intake on a Mustang with this setup. The last is a high flow air filter drop in with an air silencer delete. This method can be done several ways, but the most common way is to remove the air silencer from the air box, and drop in a high flow air filter to maximize air flow, this is a cheap, and efficient way to make a CAI as is adds nearly the same gains as an aftermarket CAI. Good brands include, MAC, BBK, & JLT.
* High flow 75mm, 80mm, or 90mm Mas Air Meter (also refered to as a Mass Air Flow Sensor, the sensor actually sits ontop of the MAM) - This mod is required when your car exceeds stock MAF sensor abilities, or a larger diameter throttle body has been added, or high flow fuel injectors have been added (36lb or higher). Generally speaking your stock MAF will run off of any fuel injector up to 36lbs as long as your ecu has been properly tuned, becuase the MAF and ECU will automattically make most of the adjustments needed to run. A new high flow MAF is also only needed when you exceed 300+ rwhp as that tends to be the breaking point of the stock MAF sensors range, however, tuning can be made to make it last longer. Also, rule of thumb (mainly for V8s) whaver size TB you have, your MAF needs to be larger, for sixers, this is generally not an issue. High flow MAFs will add a few ponies, but nothing really sufficient, especially on a stock to mildly moded sixer. Good brands include Granetilli, Ford Racing, SCT, & Pro M.
* High Flow Larger Diamter Throttle Body - This mod will require porting of the upper intake to meet the new throttle body size, as your stock port opening on your intake will always approximately match your stock throttle body size. 94-98 Mustang V6s have a 50mm Throttle Body stock, and the only availible upgrade is a 56mm Throttle Body made by BBK. 99-04 Mustang V6s have a 60mm throttle body, and can take both a 65mm throttle body, or a 70mm throttle body. 65mm Throttle bodies are for mildly moded mustangs with heads/cam/intake work, and or some type of forced induction. 70mm throttle bodies are for highly modified V6s running both a combination of F/I and H/C/I work. Power gains on a stock sixer will be minimal to around 2 rwhp, but on a sixer with a lot of supporting mods, up to 10 rwhp can be gained. Good brands include BBK, Peformance Products as well as maybe a few others for sixers.
Engine
* Under Drive Pullies - Under drive pullies usually consits of a size reduced crank pully and size increased alternator pully, to prevent charging problems, but some kits now include size increased waterpump pullies to add both looks, and increased performance of your cooling system at idel. Under drive pullies come in both 24% size reduced cranks, and 42% size reduced cranks. Remember, the more reduction to the size of the crank pully, the more power gained, but the more strain your external accessories will take in the long run. Keep in mind that the power gained is peak power, not power throughout the power band, so performance gains will be minimal, but MPG gains will be made, and dynos will look better. General power gains are between 4-8 rwhp. Good brands include ASP, BBK, March Performance, and Motoblue. NOTE!!! You will need a new belt specifically made for underdrive pullies, as a stock belt will no longer work.
* Tuners, Chips, and Tuning Software - There is a wide variety of tuners, chips, and software availible, so do a little research to see what best fits your needs. Generally speaking, CHIPS are the oldest form of ECU modification. It's simple, you buy a chip with a preprogramed tune, install it directly into your ecu, and go. Most new chips have multiple tunes programed into them to allow for more than one type of driving condition. Downsides to chips are that they're pre programed, so any new changes that need to be made for new mods can not be made and the chip must be uninstalled and reprogramed. Good brands include Diablo, Superchips, SCT, Venom, ACT, Jetz, as well as many others. Tuners are a little newer in that they are generally a handheld device that plugs into your OBD port and allows you to modify a handful of parameters on the ECU to boost performance. They can also hold several tunes at once, with the option to modify each one for newer needs. Downsides are that they're limited to what they can and can't modify, so more indepth tuning may be needed on large scale projects. Good brands include Diablo, Sniper, Superchips, & SCT. Tuning Software is one of the more recent additions into the racing world and is used just for that, racing. Tuning software is used in conjuction with a laptop and allows you to modify every single parameter of your ecu to maximize engine efficiency, and performance. Downsides include massive learning curves, and the need for a dyno at times. Good brands include Tweecer RT, Sniper, & PMS. Power Gains will vary widely depending on your supporting modifications, as well as the route you choose, but generally speaking, tuners, chips, and software will net around 5-12 rwhp on a stock sixer with the aveage being around 8 rwhp.
* Porting & Polished Intakes and Heads - There is a lot with this category so more information may need to be researched or asked on the forums to get a better understanding of what all takes place. First of all, porting is the widening of the ports to allow for more airflow. An example of this is when you widen the intake manifold throttle opening port to match the new size of a larger throttle body. Other forms of porting is port matching, which is when you match your port diameter to that of the gasket that mounts to it as gaskets are almost always larger in port size than the opening they go on. Polishing is just cleaning up the port, either from factory defects (factory ports are never perectly due to mass production, so all that may be needed is a quick polish job to get rid of the extra aluminum or iron left over from the production process which has closed up the opeing a little), polishing can also mean that your simply cleaning up the intake or head ports from grime build up and or the roughness left over from the porting process. This polishing smoothens up the port surface to reduce friction on the incomming air. Porting can be done at home using a porting kit, which is sold at nearly every auto parts store, but it's sugessted that a pro do the job, especially heads. There are also several sites that sell pre ported kits, even though they do not support our site, a lot of sixers go there, and here is a quick breakdown of their kits. Remember to buy the kit that best suits your car, a too high flowing of a kit, is just as bad as too little air flow. The website is www.supersixmotorsports.com
Stage 2 (AUTO) Power Pack $1800 - stock automattic Mustang
Stage 2+ (MANUAL) Power Pack $2200 - stock manual Mustang
Stage 2+ (AUTO W/STALL) Power Pack $2200 - modified torque converter auto Mustang
Stage 3 (FORCED INDUCTION) Power Pack $2350 - highly modified Mustangs with an S/C or large shot of N2O
Power gains from ported/polished intake and heads will drastically vary depending on the level of supporting mods on the car, the cam used, the level or porting done, and the quality of the port. Generally speaking, with no cam, work, or supporting mods, a port/polished intake and heads will yield approx 25-30 rwhp, remember, this is approx with no cam work, but the key to the whole thing is the cam.
* Camsafts - Camshafts are basically the heart and sole of your engines power, they control how much air is going to be allowed into the heads, and how much will be allowed to leave after cumbustion takes place. Stock cams for a V6 are rated at .424/.447 valve lift. The first number is how high your cam allows the rockers to lift to allow air in from the intake, and the second number is how much air is allowed to leave through the exhaust. The higher these numbers, the higher the performance, but the down side is that if the numbers get too high, like mid .520s, the drivability of the car will begin to suffer as well as MPG. Many sites sell camshafts for sixers, so look around. Power gains also will vary extremely drastically depending on the aggressiveness of the cam, and the supporting mods on the car, so be sure to email a site to make sure that the right cam is chosen for your setup.
*Fuel Injectors - Fuel injectors are what allows your engine to run as they add fuel into your engine. Now fuel injectors are very complicated as to how they function, but the best way to think of them is as a spray can. The harder you push on the spray nozzel, the more spray that comes out, well injectors are about the same, as they support your hp at rpms, so the higher the RPM, the more power being made, so the more spray that's needed. Now injectors are rated by pounds per hour, the higher the pound, the more they can spray. Injectors need to be changed to meet higher hp demands, because as mods are added, and power goes up across the power band, your injectors will no longer be able to support those new mods at certain RPMs, and they will become starved. Starvation of the injectors can potentially cause the engine to run severly lean and can eventually cause engine failliar. Stock injectors for sixers vay by year, but gernerally speaking 94-98s came with 14lb injectors, and 99-04s came with either 14lb, 19lb, or 24lb. Aftermarket sizes are far and vast, but common sizes are 24lb, 30lb, 38lb, 42lb, 60lb, 72lb. There are several fuel injector calculators online, so hit one up when you feel your running your injectors lean. Generally speaking 94-98s will need new injectors at around 180 rwhp, 99-04s are good up and into the mid 240s, but a dyno and an air to fuel mixture reading will be needed to tell for 100% sure on how things are going. Good brands include Ford Racing, Steeda, & Venom.
*Stud Mounts, Roller Rockers, & Push Rods - Stud monts mount directly to your heads and are what your Rollor Rockers mount onto. Roller Rockers are like valves in that the allow air to enter and leave the intake. Stock sixers have 1.6 roller rockers, but upgrading to 1.7 can allow for more air to enter the engine which increases performance, especially with a cam. Push rods sit between the cam, and the roller rockers, and are what push the roller rockers open then the lobe on the cam pushes the push rods up. Push rods can even be hardened for high performance applications, and or high lift cams and rockers.
*Spring Retainers - These are the springs that apply tension to the rockers when opening and closeing, and it's a good idea to have them changed when head, or cam work, has been done.
* Forged Internals - Forged internals consist of a hardend crankshaft, forged pistons, piston rods, and piston rings. Forged parts are made by cooking the stock internals longer, and inhancing them with other metals. The piston rods are made stronger by using either an H or I shape. Forged internals are needed when using large boost of N2O, or having a higher boost from a supercharger or turbo charger, they can also be needed when running massive N/A power. Generally speaking, stock sixers are good up to around 300 rwhp. after that the internals get iffy.
*Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator - Adjustable fuel pressure regulators allow you to adjust the incoming pressure of the fuel therefor inhancing performance, and tuning as well as allowing stock injectors to be taken a little above their intended means. They're also generally required when running F/I and or a higher powered N/A engine. Good brands include BBK, Kirbane, and Aeromotive.
*High Flow Fuel Pump - Just like fuel injectors, stock fuel pumps can only handel so much. A stock sixer uses an 88lb and hr fuel pump, but after market pumps are set at 110lb, 155lb, 190lb, 255lb and higher. Remember, like injectors your fuel pump only supports hp, so you can add in a 255lb hour fuel pump, but still consume the same amount as stock, because your not exceeding your stock needs, however, it is not suggested that you go any higher than your actual needs. Good brands include BBK, Holley, Ford Racing, & Aeromotive.
Forced Induction
* Nitrous Oxide - Nitrous is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to gain big boost of power while still maintaing stock feel and drivability. Nitrous can be set at many levels of boost. Boost is based upon hp gain, so a 50 lb shot equals a 50 hp shot. Nitrous kits come in three types, dry, wet, and direct port. Dry shots are the most affordable and most common. Dry shots don't allow for as much power, but can generally be installed with minimal tuning and doesn't run the risk of puddling in the intake, which can cause engine damage. Dry kits usually range from 25-175 hp shots. Wet kits are a little more expensive, and require more in depth tuning, but the result is more hp, and a more efficient engine when using N2O. Wet kits range from 50 shots to over 300. Wet kits do, however, run the risk of puddleing in the intake. Direct port shots feed the N2O difecting into the fuel system and goes directly into the intake. Direct port shots require a lot of in depth tuning, but allows for the most potential hp, but is inteded for racing applications only. They will also not puddle up in the intake as they never come in contact with the intake.
* Superchargers - Supper chargers supply power by forcing air into your intake by use of the supercharger itself. Superchargers come in many boost ranges, but the most common are 4 psi, 6-8 psi, 9 psi, and 11 psi, the higher the PSI, the more power that will be made. Superchargers opperate by being tied into your external accessories, and is driven by a pully. The S/C will only kick in after a certain RPM (usually around 2000-2500) which allows you to have massive power potential, but will keep your stock drivability and MPG as long as the boost does not kick in. Supchargers can also come in three forms, roots, screw and centrifical. Roots superchargers mount directly onto the upper intake and allow for power lower to middle range power gains but fade out in the upper revs. Roots S/Cs are not the most efficient at making power, but can make a great auto cross car as their power kicks in early, and doesn't need time to build up. Screw driven S/Cs are a little more efficient at making power over a roots, as they look nearly the same and mount the same, however they still only make low end to mid range power. Screw driven S/Cs differ from roots in that roots S/Cs have only one screw, screw drivens have two more powerful screw driven units, but is still powered by only one pully. Centrifugal superchargers sit off to the side of the engine and look more like a turbo charger. They force air into the intake which allows for upper middle range to high end power. Centrical s/cs need time to build a little boost, but the over all power gains can be very nice, and are idel for drag racers. Centrifical S/Cs also come in three different types, self cooled, oil cooled, and intercooled. Self cooled systems are the lowest quality as they run the greatest risk of grenading. Self cooled systems have a built in oil compartment which helps lubricate and cool the S/C but gets hot very quickly, and isn't idel for long repetative boost, great for daily drivers though. Oil cooled S/Cs tap into your oil pan to keep cool, they have a little more flexibility than self cooled systems, but still aren't ideal for multible boost conditions with little cooling time. Intercooled systems are the best in that they use an intercooler to keep cool and are perfect for all forms of racing and are suppurb for daily drivers, they also allow the most power gains. Good brands include Kenne Bell, Pro Charger, Paxton, Vortec, and Procharger.
* Turbo Chargers - Turbo chargers tap into your exhaust and use the emission gases that come out of your engine to power the turbo and spin the turbine, which in turn forces air into the intake. Turbos have huge gains in the upper power band, but have a little lag time in that they need to build up boost, as your engine needs to rev up to put out more emissions gases, to sufficiently drive the turbine, however, they can make much more power than an equally rated S/C. Turbos can be done in single and and twin form so make sure to ask which one is best for you and your setup. Good brands include Turbonettics as well as several others.
Ignition
* Spark Plug Wires - Spark plug wires are one of the most basic things that can be modified when dealing with the ignition system. Aftermarket spark plug wires come in many different shapes and sizes to meet your personal needs and desires, but it is the size and design that really matters. Stock wires are 8mm, but commom aftermarket sizes are 8.5mm, 9mm, and 10mm. The wider the diameter the wire, the more spark it can give out, and more overal power gains will go up. Generally speaking larger wires on a stock Mustang will yield little gains, but they do making tuning a little more precise and make the engien ru a little more smootly as they're built with longevity in mind. Good sites to pick them up at are www.autobadges.com, and www.mustangsunlimited.com.
*Coil Packs - Coil packs are what sends the main jolt of power to your distributer (on older cars) or connects directly to the wires to directly supply the jolt to the spark plugs via the wires. Aftermarket coil packs are only needed on highly modified cars, so they're basically a waste on a stock car unless your stock coil pack is damaged, worn, or faulty. Good brands include MSD ignition as well as others.
*Distributer - Are used on older cars, and are what divides the power to spark plug wires and is, itself, powered by the coil pack. Common on 5.0s, 2.3s, and older 3.8L mustangs. Good brands include MSD ignition as well as others.
< Message edited by jthorn9 -- 1/25/2008 10:05:33 PM >
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Stock 00 Mustang V6
95 Mustang GT
277 rwhp 360lbs rwtq
Vortech S/C Install coming soon.....
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