How can i be sure when buying a head unit if its still good or not? and how much does it cost to get one to be rebuilt? Also does it matter what kinda head unit you use?
How can i be sure when buying a head unit if its still good or not? and how much does it cost to get one to be rebuilt? Also does it matter what kinda head unit you use?
If you are buying one off the internet, the only thing you can really do is check the serial number. Ask the seller what the serial number is, then call vortech and ask them for the history of that number. They will tell you exactly when the unit was manufactured, when it was sold, and if it has been in their shop for service or not. Anytime you send the unit in they will do a "minor service" on the unit. That consists of changing all seals and bearings. The cost is about $350 for the service from vortech. Its really way overpriced because you can get the same seals and bearings from parts stores for under $75. They will tell you that their seals and bearing are "only avaliable through vortech" BUT, if you take the unit apart all the seals and bearings have part numbers on them. You then take those numbers to the parts store nearest you, and have them cross-reference those numbers to another brand. I had my input shaft seal changed because a strand of belt stripped off and wrapped around the input shaft destroying that seal. It was a $5 seal at autozone and was actually better quality than the original one. Seals are super easy to change, you just pull them out and press the new ones into place. Bearings arent hard either. If a shop is willing, it would only cost about $100 to have the seals and bearings changed out. Vortech just doesnt want to give out the part numbers because they would lose alot of money on "minor services" if they did.
As long as the blower spins freely and doesnt have any shaft play, its probably in excellent shape. Inside the blower case their are only 2 gears that will not go bad unless the unit doesnt get any oil. Also make sure the impeller is not bent.
What would be the ideal sized injectors and fuel pump to use for 2000 gt. And what brand injectors and fuel pump would you recomend. Thanks
Ford Racing 42# injectors and SVT Focus fuel pump. The focus fuel pump is 255lph. If your planning on going really big with power then you may need to upgrade to an 03 cobra fuel tank and pumps. That would only be needed well over 400whp though.
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03 GT 5spd Hellion 62mm w/Flowmaster cat back, Forged shortblock, UPR kmember with MMR A arms and MMR coilovers, svt focus pump w/BAP, SCT BA3000 coming: ported heads, turbo cams, aeromotive fuel system
Posts: 3219
Joined: 2/10/2007 From: the flatlands Status: offline
Well Frostbitten you have become MF's new favorite member! lol! Great post BTW, I am too in college and this would be great if I was gonna go the supercharge route
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03 Cobra stock flywheel, 11" 8 bolt, BRAND NEW, FORD RACING for sale, PM me
Posts: 255
Joined: 7/8/2007 From: The Grand Metropolis that is... Maine Status: offline
I don't want to sound like an a$$ or anything but this is almost to good to be true. With the parts you have listed + supercharger head, an SVT Focus fuel pump, 42# injectors and a Lightning 90 MM MAF this will bolt right up to say an 02 GT? If that is true you are my hero and I am going to forage for these parts while the car is sleeping this winter and install it 1st thing in the spring.
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10-94 fo' life!
quote:
Spray a 300 shot into a 2v and the only thing you’re going to do is spray your short block all over the track.
yea it can be done.. however this all contingent upon you finding a blower in decent shape in that price range - I see used s trims go for 1000-1500 for just the head unit that arnt tore up, and many of the ebay kits had that problem he listed - no oil - and the gears are trashed, so it could be a 500-600 rebuild, so figuring those prices, it could cost you 2k-2500 for this setup w/o the cooler, and there is also the possiblity of trash in the unit (metal shavings) that could cause alot of problems (mostly for the blower unit) and possibly the engine. The biggest problem with this idea is the used unit, most used units are coming off of blown up motors - they have shavings in the units - they still function for a little while, untill the bearings burn up - this is after you have installed and tuned this thing on your car - so you loose 500 or more in tuning and installation - only to have to do it again once you get the blower rebuilt - and of course the risk of some damage to your motor. This call be avoided howver if you buy a used unit and send it straight to vortech (dont install it right away) - this is the best advice and will most likely save you alot of trouble and money
this is my math 727 - brackets, bolts etc... 600 - supercharger 100 - fuel pump 400 -46lbs injectors and 90mm MAF 500 - sct and two hours of dyno tunes 2327 total
Computer Geek, how c@n I h3lp u? Posts: 14692
Joined: 8/23/2004 Status: online
the mounting bracket kit only costs $299 direct from vortech, not $727. i should know.
on a side note. if anybody is in the northern VA area, or wants to drive out here, my S trim is for sale. it's getting ripped off this week and getting upgraded to a T trim.
the mounting bracket kit only costs $299 direct from vortech, not $727. i should know.
on a side note. if anybody is in the northern VA area, or wants to drive out here, my S trim is for sale. it's getting ripped off this week and getting upgraded to a T trim.
Posts: 255
Joined: 7/8/2007 From: The Grand Metropolis that is... Maine Status: offline
If someone doing this plans to intercool right off the bat, meaning installing a cooler same time as the charger would they need the discharge tube kit? I would think the only thing you still need in it is the BPV and then you can get the Bosch or an aftermarket one. Save your self that initial 189$ and put it towards the cooler piping.
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10-94 fo' life!
quote:
Spray a 300 shot into a 2v and the only thing you’re going to do is spray your short block all over the track.