Not to start a flame war here but unless you live in the extreme north where you need the cold flowability of synthetic or in the very hot summers of the south and you sit in Hwy. 17 S traffic in Charleston, SC for hours at a time you don't need to spend the money for ANY synthetic.
To my knowledge there are NO fully documented, one owner cars with 1,000,000+ miles on them that were running anything other that Castrol GTX. My cast-iron Sportster XLCH...run in traffic in Charleston, SC from 1977 until 1987 when we moved had nothing but GTX 20-50 in the tank from 18,000 miles. Had to do a top-end then due to an exhaust valve sticking and Warner Riley at Lakeshore H-D advised me to run GTX from then on. 108,000 miles later and the bike has not stuck another valve nor has it required another top-end rebuild.
I also know of a BMW R-80RT with well over 350,000 1-owner miles and no rebuilds and he runs nothing but 20-50 GTX.
The MAIN reason Mobil-1 is recommended in hi-po factory motors is based on the VERY extreme possibility that the owner will overheat the oil playing 'ronnie-roadracer'. A GM serrvice rep told me they used it in 5-30 because it gave about .2-.3 mpg and that saved them millions in r&d.
Don't waste your money on it.
You can catch Mobil 1 on sale at Wallyworld and do an oil change for 25 bucks.
Yeah, synthetic costs about 3 times more, but you can run it 5 times further than dino oil. There's nothing wrong with dino oil. Synthetic is just better no matter what temperature you are running. I spent a bit of time reading and researching and from a great deal of various sources I was convinced by all the tests that were performed.
I run Amsoil. Their written warranty helps, as does the extended drain intervals (1 year/25k miles). And, it's a lot less expensive than dino oil over the course of a year.
engine oil
