I have heard that synthetic oil should never have to be changed because it's synthetic, and that you should only have to change the filter? does this hold any truth? I'm running Castrol Synthetic 5-20 in my pony now, and I change the oil about every 6-7k. How often should you change out synthetic oil? Thanks
+1 - while synthetic lasts a lot longer and does not have as much volatile losses as dyno oil, you still need to get the wear particles out. I would also think that combustin gasses effect the life eventually making it less effective.
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07 Perf. White GT, 18" polished Bullitts
Well my dad is an engineer at exxon mobil.
here it goes:
Synthetic is man-made whil patroleum oil is from natural crude.
I can really care less if you buy Mobil, and Im not trying to convince you to get it, but I am just gonna give you the facts...
Mobil One is fully synthetic and shows virtually no breakdown within 30 thousand miles.
Thats why Mobil extended is intended to be changed every 15,000 miles. All you have to do is change the oil filter and fill it to maintain oil level.
So I only use mobil one in everything because its pretty darn good.
cheers
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---2Fast4U---
JLT2 CAI,
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I will be going to Mobil one as well. Used it in my Colorado and had the oil tested after 12K miles (keep in mind, I changed the filter every 3000 and topped off as needed, and didn't start the extended oil service until after the motor was well broken in), and was told that it was still protecting as well or better than most Mineral type oils do brand new. Itdoes break down, from heat and combustion gasses, but if you keep a clean filter in it, and top off as needed, I can see an easy service life of 10K miles out of it.
The filter truely is the weak spot... Don't buy some crappy Fram filter. they are junk. Spend the extra few dollars and get a quality filter (K&N and Delco's are pretty good) if you plan on going past 3K miles on the oil.
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"Vera" '07 GT. 3.55's, Hurst Shifter, BBK Shorties, GTA's, Steeda UDP, Roush rear springs, ProFab CAI #6, Summit Racing COP's,FRPP LCA's, Edlebrock Panhard and UCA, Steeda PHB brace, 255/50/17 rear's
"Dyno's Rarely Lie, but E.T.'s and Trap speed say so much more."
oil= 1.49
syn oil = 6.99
engine = 2700.00
use good oil change often save 2200 over engine life
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brianj tncruiser
2006 redfire v6 w/pony package
12/05/05 delivery K&N drop in air filter
rear and 1/4 window tint
23k miles and i smile every time i drive it
new toy linclon mark LT i can spell,
i can type not always at the same time
I know a guy who only changed the filter for years using regular every 3K and topping it off. He kept the car for several years and over 150K miles. The filter is definitely the key.
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Pro 5.0 STS, C&L CAI with D/S and JPC 93 Performance Tune, Steeda UDPs, Spohn LCAs & UCA, FRPP 4:10, JPC D/S, Eibach Pro Kit, Tokico D Specs, P/h bar, Chr VCs, FM 40s, BO Strut Brace, Seq. TLs, SLP LTs, SLP XPipe/high flow cats, Comp Cams Thumprs, JPC Chrome fuel rails, BBK Chrome Plenum Cover, Boss 304 chrome wheels, BF Goodrich KDWs
from what ive heard, mobile one is not fully synthetic, even though it says it is.
I quit royal purple, do to some test results i have seen, and switched to amsoil 0-20 full syn, with k&n filters.
thats just my .02
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ORIGINAL: Humboldt Stang
I don't like running against other Stangs.
It just feels wrong somehow, like I just slept with my sister or something.
does Synthetic oil go bad
