I have a 1966 289 V8 3spd coupe that I want to sell before next year. The engine has 63000 original miles on it. I've put new brakes, a new rear axle, a rebuilt carburetor, 3 point seatbelts, new radiator, new heater core, new washer pump, new solenoids, and new rubber (door, window seals) in it.
The body is straight, and there is a ding on the rear bumper.
I am in the process of replacing the engine seals.
I need to replace the guage cluster and the DS 1/4 panel.
The car needs a new suspension and I was planning on getting the Ultra Suspension II kit from MustangDepot, but as I am selling it I wanted to ask your opinions on what would be the best bang for the buck to help me sell it.
She needs a new paint job, but beyond that the body is in very good condition.
I've probably put $2000 into the car already, and I don't want to put that much more into it, but if I can get a good profit on it I'll go higher. Right now I'm sitting on $6500. Any recommendations on what I should do to be able to sell it for 7-8000? (9-10000 if I get the brand new suspension)
Posts: 2051
Joined: 11/9/2006 From: South Shores, CA Status: offline
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ORIGINAL: easttennmotors
no restomod parts...these cars sell better the more original they are...
That generalization is simply not always true. While a Shelby, K-code and the like are certainly worth more original, your basic run of the mill Mustang is often worth more with 'tasteful' (this obviously is subjective) modifications. For instance, I'd certainly pay more for a T-code that has been converted to a a V8, a disc brake conversion, a 5-speed conversion, cable/hydraulic clutch, etc.
I think some of us would like to think that our mass produced Mustangs, which still hold sales records to this day, are more rare than they are.
To the original poster, your best bang for your buck additions that you can do for a sell are cheap/free things that require mostly sweat equity, assuming you enjoy the work and don't put a monetary value on your leisure time. After deciding that my '65 GT coupe had to go, I looked into repainting it and fixing it up, only to realize that I'd spend more money on it than I'd get back out of it. Instead, I sold it as is and didn't look back.
no restomod parts...these cars sell better the more original they are...
I agree. Gothand if full of crap. Actually, for the novice buyer who is generally a teen or an older person who is buying one for his wife, they really are not educated as a whole, so whether it is arestomod or original is kind of a moot point. Just make it very presentable with a straight body. You mentioned the fender had a crinkle in it and the quarter panel needs repair. I wold get those repaired. If the repair shop can't blend in the new paint on those areas, then get the whole car repainted. If you are not willing or able to do this, then just leave it as it is and advertise it with these defects. But, above all......be truthful.
Posts: 2051
Joined: 11/9/2006 From: South Shores, CA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Soaring
quote:
ORIGINAL: easttennmotors
no restomod parts...these cars sell better the more original they are...
I agree. Gothand if full of crap. <snip>
What did I say that wasn't the truth? Would you not pay more for a 6-banger that was correctly converted to a V-8? Do better brakes not add value? I never said he'd get his money back on 'restomods' if he were to sell it. I merely disagreed with the blanket statement, "these cars sell better the more original they are."
If that were a true statement, how would one explain the increase in sales prices across the board for GT350 clones, GT clones and V8 conversions over their stock counterparts?
[edit] My original post said not to dump a lot of money into it if he wanted to sell the car. Sweat equity was fine if he was doing it for leisure, not profit.
< Message edited by gothand -- 5/9/2007 6:44:31 PM >
Ziggy I agree with the others, stop spending on the car that can work for your advantage you can sell it for a more reasonable price wich increase the number of prospect buyers then let the new owner to decide if he/she want to fix inmediately or drive for a while. I don't know in what State do you live but here in CA the coupes value are between 6 to 9K so if you put another 2K you will probably get only your money back..but this is only my opinion
Posts: 2035
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Barossa Valley, South Australia Status: offline
I agree you wont get your money back, but a few improvements might make it more saleable. Lots of people want a car that is basically done and that will cost more than 2k! Sweat equity is best...how does the engine bay look? can you tidy up wiring, touch up or clean real dirty paint under the hood, put new battery clamps, stuff that makes the car look cared for, even if the body is showing its age.
If i see a car that is all new paint on the outside and the engine bay and/or interior are a mess, it screams bondo bucket IMO.
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A 2007 study found on average Australians walk 900 miles a year. We drink 26 gallons of beer. That means, on average, Australians get about 34 miles per gallon. Not bad hey!
When buying a car it's cheaper to buy exactly what you want than it is to buy one and fix it up like you want it. For the same reason, when selling a car it's best to sell it as-is without fixing all sorts of things up. If you spend another $2k, you'll be lucky to get an extra $1k when it sells
The only exceptions are if you're able to sacrafice a bunch of free labor into it. But even then you've got to figure what you're time is worth.
The other exception is if you needed a cheap part to get something working that may help. For example if it wasn't running because it needed a new battery, then obviously $50 for a battery would be worth it to be able to say it ran. Or if you needed to charge the AC system to proved that worked, that'd be money well spent. But paint and suspension and things like that will be money down the drain if you're planning to sell.