lol damn, well if i'm just tryin to wash my car would a sheep skin mitt and some of that meguiars gold class stuff be cool? and i've heard black magic looks REALLY good on tires. oh and i don't have a buffer can i still use a clay bar, and where would i get a clay bar?
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2003 Metallic Silver Cobra Coupe - Borla Stingers/Bassani X, Steeda CAI, SFPHQ 2.76/100MM Idler, Predator Tuner, MGW Shifter w/Blue Handle, Fiore Firewall Adjuster/Clutch Quadrant, COBRA SS Inserts, 5% Tint All Around
Wings- Yeah. The Meguiars would work good. Just make sure the mitt is free of dirt. Black magic looks pretty good too. You should be able to get a bar at any parts store. I know Carquest and Bumper to Bumper here have them.
so would this be cool if i do the clay bar first, then after that use the meguiars gold class? and thanks again for all the help guys, especially brando for getting this started.
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2003 Metallic Silver Cobra Coupe - Borla Stingers/Bassani X, Steeda CAI, SFPHQ 2.76/100MM Idler, Predator Tuner, MGW Shifter w/Blue Handle, Fiore Firewall Adjuster/Clutch Quadrant, COBRA SS Inserts, 5% Tint All Around
Wings- I would wash the car down really good, clay it, spray the tire shine, and then use the meguiars. Do the tireshine before the meguiars, because the overspray from the tireshine will be removed when you use the meguiars. Make sure you dont do it in the sun either.
No problem for the help. Gave me something to do, and a little argueing to raise my blood pressure.
Team MF Member #420 Posts: 14534
Joined: 7/24/2003 Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: brando5.0 THERE IS NO PLACE IN TODAYS CAR PAINTS FOR PASTE WAX OR HEAVY APPLICATIONS OF WAX
Wax was used to protect the paint on older cars. These cars didnt have clearcoats on them. Now, clearcoats came out on the market, to protect the paint. You dont need to protect the clearcoat. Thats what it is for, to protect the paint. If that was the case, you would never be able to stop applying protectants. Because, what would protect the wax? Thats to protect the clearcoat that protects the paint? WOuld you put another wax over the wax? Think about it. Also, have you ever realized how hard a clearcoat is? You dont need all of these products to protect the paint from dirt. Plus, do you think a soft paste wax that has a coat about .00001 thick is going to stop a lot of rocks and other damage? I sure as heck dont.
Hey Dan- You go ahead and clean up the outside of your car any way that you want want, and i guarantee that my detailing will look better to start, be smoother, and hold a shine a heck of a lot better. The clay will remove contaminants from the paint, but it sure as heck wont remove scratches or high spots from spraying the clearcoat.
Also, ever so smart one, wetsanding doesnt make swirls, its the DUMBA$$ who goes and takes a buffer to a car that hasnt been properly prepped (i.e. not WETSANDING)
Take your car to whoever you want, because I've heard of a lot of people who are "professionals" who use the half a$$ methods you listed.
Let you little nephew throw some rocks at your car. And stand by it too. Maybe he'll hit you and knock some sense into you!
Damn, you are so wrong all I can do is chuckle about it. You are right to a certain degree about lacquer thinnner, it's essentially the same as any tar & bug remover, just diluted far more. But, as for everything on the car like tar & bugs and such, that's what the wax remover & clay bar will remove. You need to read your posts again and see how you are contradicting yourself.
Have you ever seen what an untrained hand will do to their clear coat trying to wetsand, it's HORRIBLE. It's not for any old average joe to try doing, I couldn't believe you'd give this advice.
Also, let's refresh your great knowledge about car care, clearcoat is to prevent corrosion on your paint, from such things as dirt & sun, acid rain and other garbage in our air & rain. I never said it would protect from rock chips. I don't know why you pulled that out of your rear-end.
Scratch removing pastes will work just fine for the average joe, it will take care of all the fine swirl marks and scratches in your clear coat. It's ridiculous you would suggest this to someone without letting them know the damage they can cause. Clear coat is simply a layer of paint without pigment, it's very very important to take good care of your clear coat, it scratches easily and it's there to protect your pigmented paint man.
I don't care how long your boss has been in business, your proceedures aren't correct and ridiculous.
For example, I stripped all the wax off my hood, as you said over time it became "dullen" (LOL), I did not have time to re-apply wax and forgot about it over a 2 week period. Over this time it rained twice and we had three 85 degree sunny days, when I finally got around to waxing, I had NASTY water spots etched into my clear coat. Which is why, homeslice, we need to protect our clear coats. But hey, I'll take your advice and go strip all the clear coat off my car and need a good buffing every 2 weeks until my clear coat no longer exists and I finally have a real excuse (according to your handbook) that I can now use wax!!!!!
C'mon man, you're so wrong I have tears dripping from my face outta laughter.
< Message edited by Dan02GT -- 12/14/2004 5:45:53 PM >
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Black 04 Cobra For Sale. Will trade for 93 older/non 4-eye fox + $$.
never go through a car wash always do it yourself. i hear Zymol is suppose to be real good as well as Mequires. I use armor all for the interior but nothing of that for the exterior.
What would you recommend for removing tree sap? I used rubbing alcohol. I was told that this product or thinner wouldn't hurt as long as the car wasn't scratched.
< Message edited by perm102 -- 12/14/2004 5:57:16 PM >
Dan- You are probably right aboutthe average joe comments. Most people would f-up their cars if they try to do the wetsanding.
My procedures will work right....if you do them correctly. I very, very seldomly have a car leave our shop with swirl marks, and have NEVER wrecked a car by using laquer thinner.
As far as your car having water spots etched into the clearcoat, the clay will remove them. It doesnt matter if you have wax on the car or not, if the water can collect, which it will, there will be water marks.
Also, I never said that you have to wetsand the car every two weeks. Once wetsanded, the smoothness will last indefinately. Most cars from the factory wont be smooth. The way they spray the cars they will have clearcoat overspray. Thats what you wetsand for, adn to remove the scratches.
The clay will work to remove the water marks and most of the dirt. You can get a pretty good finish with clay alone.
The clear coat protectant we use is rated to last for 6 months. The stuff you get at the parts store wont last that long usually, but my main point if you are going to use wax is to use a liquid spray wax, like an aerosol. It doesnt take a lot of wax to repel the water, especially if you think that you need to clean the car every two weeks.
Do what you want. There is more than one way to get a good finish. Do what you are capable of doing. If you are satisfied with waxing every couple of weeks and a decent finish, go that route then. In my opinion (which is what everyone is giving here--their own opinion) my methods work great and give a show room finish.
I'm not out to make enemies on this board. I'm just giving my methods and sharing my knowledge on the subject. People view things in different ways, and have their own ways to go about it.
Team MF Member #420 Posts: 14534
Joined: 7/24/2003 Status: offline
Your posts have slowly transformed to what everyone else has been saying this whole time man. I'm not here to make enemies with you either man
Clay wouldn't remove any of the water marks etched into my clear coat. I had to wetsand to remove them, all the more proof that you need to protect your clear coat with a wax. There really isn't much of a difference between spray, paste & liquid wax's. Some people claim certain forms shine better, are easier to apply and remove and some last longer than others. Products that contain polymers are going to give you the deepest, most reflective & wettest shine.
You were saying that all wax's are pointless and completely 100% not needed for vehicles that have clear coat on them, and now your talking about this 'clear coat protectant', whaddya think that stuff is man - it's wax. It's there to protect the clear coat
Sooo if anyone is going to take any information from this thread:
Yes, you need to wax your car, regardless of what you've read. In order to wax your car properly you need to go through the steps I provided in my previous posts.
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Black 04 Cobra For Sale. Will trade for 93 older/non 4-eye fox + $$.
so heres what i'm gonna do, i'm gonna use the meguirs NXT soap to clean it, then clay it, then i'll use the liquid wax by meguiars. then after i'll add the black magic to the tires, that sound good?
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2003 Metallic Silver Cobra Coupe - Borla Stingers/Bassani X, Steeda CAI, SFPHQ 2.76/100MM Idler, Predator Tuner, MGW Shifter w/Blue Handle, Fiore Firewall Adjuster/Clutch Quadrant, COBRA SS Inserts, 5% Tint All Around
Posts: 1974
Joined: 8/23/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Finally the end.
Yes you need to wax your car. It is an important step in protecting the finish of your car. The reason behind clearcoating a car was......because 1 stage paint when waxed will start to be wiped of the car. You will never take it off you unless you do it over and over and over on an unwaxed finish. Even still you will reduce the orange peel. Ever wonder why the paint can be so bad on older cars? because they weren't protected and the pollutants in the air would attack the finish.
Clear coar is a 2 stage system , color spray then a hardened unpigmented finish. Clear coat is just like paint, it needs to setup before it gets it first wax, typically 6mnths after it has been sprayed. Job until the first wax is keeping it clean.
As far as getting a swirl free finish, I haven't seen one car that has been profesionally done that I couldn't see a swirl somewhere in the finish.
But the best thing you can do is strip the wax (how ever you choose, I use dish soap and wash the car several times with it) Clay bar the finish. and invest in a nice liquid wax. Zanio is good, Zymol (NOT the stuff you buy in the Auto parts store, ordered $$), I use stuff called IBIZ also very good stuff. Use a quailty car wash too. Nothing with the wax mixed in and nothing cheap cheap (typically just like dish soad). I use mothers reflection soap and it does a very good job. The amorall soap works good when it gets colder because it will still sud up.
Always dry in the shade, and keep the car wet until you do start to dry it. As a finishing touch you can sprits water on the wax and buff it off using a flanel or finish cloth to knock any wax high spots off and gloss the finish.
Have any of you guys heard of this stuff in my picturecalled "super gloss" I used it this last summer and I thought it was the best wax I've ever used. I was told it only has to be applied every 2 years and it says on the bottle that it doesn't make swirl marks. It also says that it was put in a machine that test both durability and shine and operates 24 hrs. a day at 12 min. intervals. First it is cooled to -5 degrees,then sprayed with water:frozen,then heated to 140 degrees. After that it is sprayed with detergent and goes into a wind tunnel with hot air to 120 degrees. Then it goes into cold air with chill factor to -5 degrees and then brought back to normal temperature. It also says that it lasted 14 days while many others failed after one day. Personally I like it for 2 main reasons 1)It really has a great shineand 2) It actually cleaned all the oxidation off my headlights. Needless to say I was very impressed!!
so heres what i'm gonna do, i'm gonna use the meguirs NXT soap to clean it, then clay it, then i'll use the liquid wax by meguiars. then after i'll add the black magic to the tires, that sound good?
i ahev the same question - any answers?
also SIlverGTV8, you mentioned you use dish soap and then clay then wax - but then you said to use a quality soap...do you mean instead of the dish soap? or at some other point in the cleaning.. also have you have ever notivced the dish soap hurting the paint/clear under the wax?
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2003 True Blue convertible V6. grill delete, chinspoiler coming in - magnaflow catback, 4.10/t-lok, bilstein shocks/struts, MM subframes and an STB, dont have a sig.
Posts: 1974
Joined: 8/23/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Yeah that is a little confusing. I use dish soap to strip the wax off the car. Dry, claybar, wax, sprits and buff. Inbetween waxings, use a quality soap. You don't need to strip the car of the wax everytime. Atleast once a year you should, or when you notice water spots that are not coming out with washing. A quailty car soap will leave the wax on the car. If I had to guess my car has about 8 coats of wax on it right now. (thin liquid coats) In the spring it will get striped and the whole process will start over again.
I have never heard of/seen any damge done with dish soap. The stuff is not harmful in anyway. It just reacts with the wax to take it off. Kinda like it does with grease.
I use to own a black car and if you know black it is one pain in the a$$ color to keep clean and major swirl free. Never once had a problem with using dish soap.
k so from that silvergt8 i got this, dish soap wash the car first, clay bar it, then wax, then buff it with some terry towels, and then your done. then next time you wash it skip the dish soap/clay and instead use the NXT Generation Car Soap form Meguiars then wax it using their Gold Class Wax, then buff it with some terry towels, sound right?
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2003 Metallic Silver Cobra Coupe - Borla Stingers/Bassani X, Steeda CAI, SFPHQ 2.76/100MM Idler, Predator Tuner, MGW Shifter w/Blue Handle, Fiore Firewall Adjuster/Clutch Quadrant, COBRA SS Inserts, 5% Tint All Around
Posts: 1974
Joined: 8/23/2003 From: United States Status: offline
Sounds good. I do the same but.... I use mothers reflection soap and my IBIZ wax. I use a wash mitt. I have bucket souly devoted to rim and tire with there own sponges/mitts and I use amorall soap and eagle one a-z rim cleaner and Bleach white for the tires. A bucket for the body with a nice wash mitt (washed after everycar wash). This keeps the dirt from the wheels from contaminating your good mitt for the car and also keeps the rim and tire chemicals off your paint because they can be bad for the paint if left to sit.
A tip for cleaning, clean your rims and tires FIRST. Everyone cleans them after but if you read the directions it says to have cool DRY wheels, not so dry after you washed the rest of the car. Throw some wax on the wheels to. The brake dust will be easier to clean off the rim.
Posts: 593
Joined: 10/15/2003 From: Williston ND USA Status: offline
Damn do i feel like a fool. Heh i always felt that i baby mine, just bring it to the presure washer, wipe it clean with a california wipe blade the stick on the turtle wax.
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"For all single women, its either get carpletunnel or find a man....or both" ---------------------High Low --- Tonight Jan 13 Clear N/A -26° ..We have no high temp 90 F150 95 mustang GT (R.I.P) 94 mustang GT (on the way) 66 stang
Posts: 126
Joined: 11/12/2003 From: United States Status: offline
damn this is by far the most intense car hygiene discussion i could have ever imagined. i use to think i washed my car crazy religoiusly, i was wrong, i am nothing compared to you detail mongers of laquer, wax, paste and what.
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3.73 gears Flowmasters Diablo predator steeda Tri ax short shifter what should i get next? let me know what you think...
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RE: washing your cars - 
