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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location:
Posts: 141
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RE: washing your cars
I work at a professional detail shop, and I will shed the following light on the situation:
Armorall isnt good. Refer is right. The petroleum will not only dry out the vinyl, but it will also make dirt and dust stick to the vinyl, thus making it dirty quicker. What we use is a product called Vinyl Shine, made by Zep. I dont know if this is available non-commercially, but it works great. Meguiars isnt bad to use, as it doesnt contain the petroleum like armoral. Another tip: when you use a vinyl shine, use an air compressor and a rubber tipped nozel to spray the liquid into the vents and cracks. This will eliminate where you can see unprotected vinyl due to not being able to get the cloth in the crack.
As far as the outside, unless you own a pre-clearcoated car, you might as well throw that wax out the window of your stang next time you are doing 120+ mph. Wax has no place in new cars. Clearcoat replaced wax. Wax was used to protect the paint from rust and dirt. Clearcoat does essentially the same. Plus, when wax gets hot, especially on dark colored cars, it melts, kinda like a candle. Then, when you go cruising, all the dirt and bugs stick to that wet wax, and then are stuck to the car. Paste wax is the worst. If you want to make your car look good, you need to get rid of all the wax you have on it first. First, use a pressure washer and get off the loose dirt. Then, use laquer thinner. I know this sounds scarry, but trust me, if your car has clearcoat, it wont hurt it. Wipe the car down completely with this. If there is a lot of wax on the car, the cloth you use will get really yellowed from the wax. Keep folding it if it is dirty. The last thing you want to do is scratch the car with the dirt you pick up. Once you wipe down the car, you will notice that it feels a little smoother. Then, if you really want a nice finish, get some detailing clay, made by Wizards products. Rub out the entire car with this, using water or cheap glass cleaner to lube the clay. If you try it dry, the clay will stick. The clay will remove overspray and most of the dirt that gets imbedded in the clearcoat. Also, it will remove water spots. Finally, go to Walmart and buy a can of Speedbead or another form of aerosol spray wax. I know i said not to use wax, but this appies such a thin layer, you wont really be effected by it. If using this wax bothers you, you can find some clear coat protectants at some parts stores. Most of these are applied with a air sprayer. They work great, if you can find them. When applying any final finish, pick up some microfiber cloths. These work great, and are nice for not leaving lint and other deposits behind.
If you have a buffer, whatever you do, DO NOT buff the car without first wetsanding, or using clay on it first. You will pick up the dirt in the paint, and swirl the heck out of it. I recommend wetsanding with 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper lightly with a sponge. Wash off the white film that forms (this film is actually dead clearcoat). Then, use a fine buffing compound. DO NOT use heavy cut compound, as this can swirl the paint too.
When you wash the outside, do NOT use household dish soap. This can wreck the clearcoat. Buy the armorall or other forms of soap made especially for cars.
Umm...I cant think of anything else offhand, but if you have any questions about cleaning the inside or out, just let me know. I can give you some advice.
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-Brando5.0
90 LX. 5.0. Trick Flow Intake, 1.7 roller rockers, Comp Cams XE276HR, F.R. 9mm Wires, 75mm TB, 73mm MAF, BBK Fpr, Chrome headers, 2700 cfm fan, 2500 stall converter, Transgo shift kit, 3.73 gears, Hooker exhaust, Flowmaster 40 mufflers
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